I was wondering about what does it take HP wise or 60 foot wise to pull the tires or tire! I know there are many varibles far as weight and the setup but want a basic idea for a street car with maybe ac removed, aluminum heads, fiberglass hood using a foot brake!

 

mine still doesn't pull the tires, some do, some don't

 

Something that helps is 90/10 front struts, but very unlikely to pull a tire in the 12s off foot brake without draglite skinnies in the front.

 

Would love to race you. We almost have same set up

 

The motor in my sig is getting a little tired so I have another bullet on the engine stand im gathering up parts for! But I love a good race!

 

Lots of torque and deep gears make it easier. I've seen 12 second cars easily pull the wheels and 8 seconds cars that don't. I can change my suspension settings to keep the front end down during competition but during test and tune days, I loosen up the front to carry the front end about 40' down the track. The crowd loves it. I also launch at 6000 rpm off a transbrake.

To "just get them off the ground" typically you need to be in the 12's although if the car isn't nose heavy like our third gens, 13 seconds may be possible.

 

Traction, gearing, and front suspension travel.

 

I'd say typically once you get into the 1.5X 60fts the wheels (or more likely WHEEL) starts coming up. At least that's when my junk started doing it.

 

Around a 1.5X 60 foot time is what I was thinkin too! I know people say its a waste of energy but It sure is sweet!

 

Mine would barely pull the left front at 1.60 60' times, and thats with 275/60/15 BFG Drag Radials. the car was running in the low 12 - high 11 range. Now with my Procharger motor, it better pull them both!!

 

I barely pulled them running 9's. Look below what 8's got me.

 

race car!!

 

high rpm launch might 'pop' a wheelie just from shock to the suspension or maybe be able to do it if your suspension is setup that way.. but to do it with good suspension would take alot of hp/tq 550-600 ish maybe? and a fairly lightened up car..

I had an awd laser that ran 13.00s with horrible broken front end that would lift them maybe an inch with 2-step and anti-lag lol

 

Going to be launching pretty hard tomorrow, if nothing breaks, i will have vids, i am sure a wheel might hop off the ground, but not actually pull them.

 

Off the footbrake, I go 1.62 to the 60' beams, it will barely pull the left front, don't have any pics or vids of it yet. I was informed by a coule of people watching my make passes and they were asking if something was wrong with the brakes, cause the front tire wasn't turning when I first left the line. Thats how I found out it was happening, and that some people need to be taught about racing.

 

i got a set of 90/10's in the mail, i'll be sure to post my findings from this coming saturday.

for reference, this is with stock struts and about a 1.52 sixty:


i'm REALLY hoping the 90/10's do something for me...they might go backwards, but i don't think so.

 

Took advise and removed the front sway bar tonight, and i removed the front impact bar as well, dont think i have much left to remove now

 

I barely got both fronts off the ground footbraking to a 1.42 60'. That's with stock springs and probably stock struts and rear shocks lol. I've never changed them and when I bought the car, the stock exhaust system was still in place.

 

Matt, the 90/10's will be fine for your power, it's about another second faster that they start becoming more a hinderance than help.


Personally, with a street car I keep the front sway bar on, but use well greased poly bar mounts and custom spherical end links. - That allows the sway bar to do it's job in corners, but also allows for little-no drag during launch when both wheels drop together.

 

1.52. Off footbrake with 3200 stall. Bone stock chassis.
It's ugly but I think you can slide a mosquito's wing under there.

 

Cannot really see if the car pulled the front left, it looks like it but it was dark, pretty sure next outing with the new heads and launching at 6000 will do it for sure, although not my goal, it is inevitable i am sure with this setup:

 

So how did the shocks work? Saw pics of your car from Reynolds test and tune on http://dragstory.com/ws/Index.php?p=3205&nggpage=3

 

he said more consistent from pass to pass but no 60' or ET improvement

 

yup, more consistent and much more stable right out of the hole, but no numerical improvements. yeah, that's my dad's website...it's cool that you look at it!

i'm still thinking a 4.30 gear would be about perfect.

it is lifting the front wheels higher now though:

 

I found a post on yellowbullet that led me to the link of the test and tune photos, but i've read several stories on that site it before.

 

The launch looks more consistent with the old struts..do you have adjustable rears?

 

what you don't see is how the car acts on the landing, it's much more stable and the sixties are much more consistent. it's keeping the nose lifted now, where as before it was coming down and squatting the front badly. it does have a set of comp. engineering rear shocks set on a 50/50 setting right now. i know there is much to be had in a good set of adjustables, but can't afford a set so what i got is what i got.

 

Are you going to SGMP for the Radial Redemption race end of the Feb? I think we're going tow down there for the 6.50 class.

 

i thought about it trying to run the 7.50 class or something...i'm right in the middle, lol. the car runs 7.0x's, and 6.9x's. but i have a linear algebra test two days before, and a physics test two days after...no way i can not focus on school right now.

 

I'll run the car for you matt

 

i'm sure you would

oh, got something in the mail today that should help a bit





thanks steve!

 

no problem, hope it works out well for you.