mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i know it has something going on in the first 100' of the run. if you look at my timeslips most of them look like this:

mid 1.5x 60' time
6.9x or 7.0x 1/8 at 99.xxmph
10.9x at 125.xxmph

i've got a Transmission Specialties 9.5" converter with a 4500 rpm flash speed with a th400. it's got 4.11 gears in it with a 275/60 hoosier drag radial. i've done so many things to the car to try to get the 60' time down i don't even know where to start, lol. it now has 90/10's on the front and has comp eng 3-ways on the back set on the 50/50 setting. i'm shifting at 7000rpm and it goes through the traps at 6600rpm, so i've got a little bit of an rpm window and could add some gear.

as far as i can tell after months of scrutinizing video and pictures, i have no tire spin whatsoever. my best 60' to date is a 1.50. my best mph is 125.37

i'd like to not take out the converter right now. it's got great street manners, though it's not really being street driven much, i do like to take it to the occassional cruise in. it also has just 6.5% slippage, that's pretty awesome in my book considering the car has never had such an efficient converter before. i don't really want to kill off mph, but i do wanna be able to run what my mph indicates it should (which is like 10.5x or 10.6x based on what i've oberserved in the past).

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

spray it.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Honestly Matt, i have been wondering, comparing my car to yours, even though i only have 1/8th mile slips, i am right on your tail and i have less compression and less head and i think with the 243 head swap i should be right there with you, i was thinking you should be running harder with a more efficient combination, mine being a manual really hurts me because you can make a straight shift VS me losing time shifting, what does your timing look like in the MSD ignition box?

BTW, i dont know what your car weights, but i thought you might also have a weight advantage, i think you are in the 300 club with me right? I am 307 right now at 6"2 or so, and i think i remember someone mentioning you, me and xpndbl3 are all around 3, so the weight advantage you have will be strictly in the car itself.

I assume i am at 3200 with my big **** out of the car.

I know my car has a 7.1 in it, so maybe you need some more tuning, you have a wide band right?

89rs454

Now that's what i call hauling ***.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i can't imagine my car being much lighter than yours honestly. we have about the same stuff done in lightweigt stuff, and i have a heavier t400, ford 9", and roll bar. my car weighs 3380lbs with me in it right now. i'm right at 300 (i've already lost 12 lbs in 2 weeks, i'm on a new diet plan to get back down to a reasonable weight), so that puts the car at 3080lbs.

my timing is 35* all the way across the board.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

figured you'd poke your head in there with this. I'm debating what I can hit it with .040 milled heads and .040 cometic gaskets on my motor.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

LOL, PM me details on the weight loss diet plan, LOL, i would love to get back down to 285 or so.

Otherwise, man, i dont know what the deal is unless your carb is not giving enough fuel, you do have a wide band?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

well i've got the new to me 2" super sucker spacer that both zone and steve claim to be worth some ET/mph and i will try it the next day at the track. i'm also considering a 4.30 gear. no spray even as much as y'all want me to do it. help me figure out a way to make this thing 60' better the way it is, lol.

i'm still working with this NON-adj jegster torque arm, i'd like to replace it with something like the burkhart piece that has pinion angle AND instant center adjustment...lots of things to purchase, but i can't take out a second mortgage just to make the car work. i just need to make some wise decisions in parts selection as i figure this out.

the overall goal is to run a 10.90 index at my local track in the summer without worrying about not having enough steam to do so.

AlkyIROC

I think my ET is now close to my MPH but converting both to a corrected altitude, they're never close enough to be exact. My MPH should actually be slightly higher to match the ET.

Many, many years ago, when I was still running a 383 and stock 3.27 geared 9 bolt, I was running 12.0 at 117 mph which was way off. The car was a slug for the first 1/8 mile but really started picking up steam by the 1000' mark. When paired up to another 12.0 car, it would leave me behind at the starting line but I would blow by it at the finish because they would normally make out around 112 MPH. It made bumper racing difficult as I would gain ground quickly at the finish line.

Try a deeper gear first to get the engine into the converters stall and cam's powerband faster. Going from 4.11 to 4.30 will probably be what you need. It will get the engine rpm up faster and will probably show less converter slippage. Technically, you want to be at or just over your shift point as you cross the finish line. If you're below it, there's more power available but you ran out of track to use it. RPM is how fast the work is being done. Get those rpms up and work is done faster which means quicker times.

I experimented with some gears a couple of years ago. My 4.86 gears work great but I dropped down to 4.57 for a couple of races. Calculated converter slip skyrocketed and the car just didn't pull as hard. Put the 4.86 gears back in and it was happy again. I'd like to try some 5.00 but feel they might be a little much. Perhaps with the cam change I just did, I could justify a deeper gear set.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

^all of the things you're saying are all things i've been mulling around in my head. to hear someone else say it kinda just reinforces what i've been thinking.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like it's in the converter. That 9.5 is doing the best it can for not being an 8 inch and the 1.50 proves it. And your E.T/MPH is good. But I know how you feel looking at that wasted MPH on that slip. I had the same thing. I think I threw this out there before. Pop that sucker out, ship it off to me, and let me try to make it a 4800-4900 stall. There may be one last tweek in it. No charge applied. IT shouldn't hurt streetability to much and adding a little slippage will help you here.

The 8 inch is the golden ticket. Thats why everyone under 800HP with a killer 60' has one. There smaller diameter equates to more HP to the wheels. It's also less weight bolted to the crank. With that said, you can run higher stall speeds to let the car come out of the whole higher in it's RPM range. (ex. 5500). Since the RPM range goes up in the first 330 ft you can bet it will continue the course of the track and show you the extra RPM at the stripe as well. Which is exactly what you need here.

I will try to think of a way to get you into an 8 inch if your interested.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

with the cost of everything i've done to the car in the last 18 months, a new converter is out of the question. i'll try to get this thing out sometime soonish and get it up to you for a re-stall

AlkyIROC

My 8" stalls at 6200 on the transbrake I was launching at full stall last year instead of off the 2-step. I shift at 7200 and the rpms drop to 6400 after the shift.

Calculated converter slip is less than 4%

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

ugh...i wish my dad's 8" had a turbo spline in it...i'd slap it in to see what's up, but it doesn't so i can't go there, lol.

pm me a deal justin, but i don't think i can handle it, lol...money's just too tight to be buying another converter.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

my mr. gasket .026's and ~.020" milled heads have worked ok so far on the 200 shot. lmao... "junk gaskets"

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I was gonna say maybe a touch more converter and gear and you should see some changes.

How is the tune at launch? air fuel good and have you tried different timing around the converter flash point?

Its all in your 60 foot. Your not leaving much harder than my old mid 11 second 383 did. So you definately have some room in the launch

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i don't have a wideband, but the plugs look good after the run. nice and light tan, timing mark down towards the threads...seems right. no ping, no blistering on the plugs, no crazy water temps down the track, etc.

the car has a carb on it now btw...and i have no data logging capabilities.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

also wanted to mention you boys are some cornbread eatin' mfers.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

so you're saying have at it huh? Alright, I'll send broken engine pieces to you for repair

LMAO....what you trying to say? I don't know any bean pole racers.....ever look around at the track, all the drivers are stocky built, can't run fast and we're no good at sports so we all get in fast cars instead.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

hey im fatter than i used to be too. heh

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

lol my dang car would probably run 11.60's if my skinny buddy were to drive it.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i could put my little brother in the car and it'd un 10.6x's probably. he's like 160 soaking wet. i may be cornbread fed, but i'm no pudgy couch potatoe...i can def. hold my own...

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Right? I sure as hell dont look like i am in the 300 club, so its cool, got back in the gym yesterday to start getting back to business.


But Matt, if someone had a wide band you can use, it might snitch any fuel issues out, my 200$ Innovate Ebay piece was a great 200$ spent, helped me run allot faster, but my plug readings were on and off.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

it was a lighthearted comment. i dont know if you guys are fat or swole, just saying 300lbs is big like bear. lol i am a runt at ~160-165ish.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

swinging 16lb sledge hammers don't make you fat, lol...last measured in with an 18" bicep, haha. but it's been a minute since i've done that kinda work, so i'm getting a bit soft. and now that i'm in college, i stay still and study alot. so i'm getting back in the game, eating healthy, riding my bicycle, etc.

i can get an AEM wideband for $160ish on eBay...i'll try to talk the boss into letting me do that, even though i just dropped $150 on struts, and $125 on a spacer, and now i'm going to spend some coin getting the converter back to justin (not a complaint, just a reality, lol) i promised her a new Kindle and some go-fast goodies for the chevelle...i need to hold good to those promises!

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

I forgot you had that 8 inch. You can send me that and for $225 i'll make it fresh, restalled and turbo spline so you can use it with your car. I thought you said you needed to keep that though for your dads car?

Shagwell

I think the converter tweak is your best bet. Sounds like she just needs a little more rpm out of the gate to help get the ET down some more....or just spray it.....


lols


I'm bigger than I used-to be @ 206lbs, but being 6'2", I'm right about where I should be.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

I started 1/1/11 at 170lbs which to me is about 15 lbs overweight for my height and age.
29/ 5'8"

Today is 31 days later (2/1) and my strict diet brought me to 159. I will probably stop at 155.

Being small is a great thing in racing. I probably would have had an 11 seconed car if I was any heavier. lol

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

A few things I thought about. Do you have a dyno sheet? I would like to see where the motor is making the most power.

I would get a wideband for sure. With all this talk of more gear and more converter how much do you drive this car on the street?

I fail at the whole time to mph ratio at this time.

99 SS 408 6-speed 7.21@102.7 . Ouch

BUt my Iroc timeslip broke down like this, so for a STREET car(if it is one) you are pretty good...

This combo was a 355 Superram and 150 shot... I miss it
1.50
7.00
99.78

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I feel horrible when I crank off 10.0's at 140-141 But I know my problem is the launch

best I ever had the car mph to et was 12.95 at 103.8 mph on a 1.71 60 ft I think it was when it was just bolt ons, and that wasnt optimized all the way either but pretty close.

10.9 at 125 aint bad but certainly see 10.7's with just abit more 60 ft. Goin 10.5-10.6 seems really good for the mph but I've also seen that done before...some guys have done 10.5's at 124 at my hometown track. i dont get it.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

on january 14, i started my new diet, i was 308. today i'm down to 296. so 12lbs drop in 18 days. not too bad i don't think. i have multiple goals, to keep me going, but my overall goal is to be 240 or so.

i do have to keep that 8" converter for my dad unfortunately. i think that restalling this 9.5" unit will be the best bet for this season. if i wasn't trying to run the 10.90 index in summer heat (where we can have 3500'+ DA's) then this would be a non-issue...cause running 10.9x's at 125.xx is a great bracket racing strategy, lol...the car is so lazy out of the hole it's stupid consistent, then car comes on so hard on the big end it'll push my opponent out, lol.

Shagwell

and you needed us to explain why your ET was off from your MPH?

Converter, gear, or both, could be your answer pending where your peak power is.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

haha, true. i'm going to send the converter back to Justin to have him tweek it and go from there. i put the spacer on today, just to see how it acted...it really cleaned up the throttle response, an even made cold start easier...very interesting!

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Good then Matt, wide band will dial in your carb to near perfection. Will let you really know if there is more left on the table.

I have a goal of 275 LBS, i am a very large framed guy with large legs, so the muscle mass is everywhere and i just dont see being under 275 looking like anything but weird, so till then, i started int he gym and will just have to cut back my food intake.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't look that lazy

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Thats what i was thinking, a 1.5 is not slouching.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

haha, touche guys...i know it's not slow...i just feel like it could be better.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

See your pulling wheels with a 1.5? I couldnt do that with a 1.55 and didnt do that with the 1.4's I had on spray Is there something with tooo much suspension movement?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

possible...i do have a set of limiters for the front. it's setup for them, just no chains currently. i could try that as well.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a converter adjustment will help you get where you want to be, like the others said.
Do you have an anti-roll bar or air bags? Anti roll bar is the best solution but air bags do work and they are cheap. The air bags helped my car last year a lot.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

neither. i'm going to trim the drivers side end link a bit to add a little preload. i'd rather save my money up and put an anti roll bar in it.

anyone have experience with the TRZ piece? if so...is there enough clearance for wheelie bars if i ever needed to put some on the car?

as you can see here, compared to the other pic, the car could probably benefit from something, lol!

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

its a nice setup, but a decent amount of cash outlay

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

converter is too tight. mine gets around a 1.55 60' n/a with a nitrous oriented converter. runs around 96-98ish in the 1/8 i think.... its a complete turd on motor.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Mine is definitely too tight then, my best was 1.68, time to open up the nitrous converter some

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

ouch, thats near bolt on L98 range get that thing opened up and let it

car_fixer

lol i really dont think its gonna get that much better no matter what converter or gear you throw at it.
Here we go with Rich logic again lol, the car drives ok doing what it does all week...you know school , work and other menial tasks right, and since its working well leave it together, get a kindle or nook or what ever ereader she chooses and wait till it warms up a bit. see what she runs then....I know for a fact you can kill the tree (think i still have a slip when i ran u in that truck .000 , yes guys he threw a perfect light in someone elses truck) and most of the s/s crowd has not seen their suspension in years-or a straight pass lol i think you got somethin for em. If that dont work feed them some homemade corn bread to level the field (or strawberry shortcake, there are lots of them after the sand bar)
one thing you might try is shifting sooner, 7k sounds high for the cam in there, i know it wont do 60 ft any good but might help 1/8th

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

the rest of the slip does alright, dont you worry

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

hey rich! long time no talk! how you been?
the car is almost race only...it putts to a cruise in or work occasionally. work is a screaming 7 miles away. it has made several 60mile trips since i've put this combo in it though and other than fuel consumption, it did great!

haha, i remember that! what a frustrating day that was...got a .000 light in competition only to run 2 seconds slower than my dial...the trans needs to come down anyway for a trans blanket install, and if i can get the converter out and off to justin for a tweak that might make a 10.90 possible in the summer heat, then it'll be worth it.

believe it or not, i've tried short shifting it, and it goes slower. it may be that my tach isn't really accurate or something. it's a cheapy autogage parts store special.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

I tried shifting at 6500, lost 2 MPH.

Shagwell

open up the converter he!!, just open the valve on that blue bog-be-gone bottle

Matt - keep an eye on the trans temp with a blanket. You're running plenty cool enough now it shouldn't be an issue, but if it makes a notable difference you can easily bend up couple small flat straps to go around the trans(bolt to each side pan rail) and hold it up off the case a little.