Has anyone hooked very well with the front swaybar still connected?

I rebuilt my 4l80e and put a 9" billet converter around 3600 stall in it while I was at it... while this has made it a blast to drive... the best I have pulled off with street tires is 2.45 60' (mind you that was attempt number 3 this year)

So M/T ET's or the like will be bought just wondering if I need to ditch the front sway bar too

 

i would at least disconnect a link at the track, if you have a battery powered impact it's quick and easy to do

 

I doubt disconnecting or removing the front sway bar will help your 2.45 60' time with street tires. You need traction to help 60' times. Once you get traction, removing the front sway bar will reduce front end weight and allow the front to rise easier. Without that traction, the front won't even try to rise.

Start with sticky tires and leave the street tires for the street.

 

ive been 1.9's in a lowered m6 4th gen with 17" tires. 1.5 60's on 26x11.5x16 et streets. and swaybars still attached

 

2.45 60' says that the sway bar is the least of your worries. Get a decent tire on the back before anything else.

My street car and my buddy's stang, both 5-speed cars on 17" drag radials went 1.6x 60fts with the front bar still attached. On a 15" big/little set-up with 26" drag radials on the rear his stang has been 1.52 60' still sporting the stock front sway bar.

 

AlkyIROC

Shagwell

Yep, I am with you guys, I need slicks and will be buying some here shortly (Drag radials seem like a waste to me)

Shagwell.. thanks for the added confidence, that is just what I wanted to hear...

I have also read that having my LCA's in the lowest spot might hit the tires too hard, and that is where I have mine right now...

 

I've gone high 1.7's with 275/40/17 street tires in my M6 '97 WS6 with the stock sway bar on it. I actually tried it both ways and found that I couldn't document any faster times with the bar disconnected then with it connected, there just wasn't enough weight transfer. I've run 1.8's in my '87 formula with an auto and it's original, at the time 16y/o eagle zr radials, and found that the car didn't actually have enough power to go faster (ran exactly the same times on some drag tires that would dead hook).

Don't take it the wrong way, but if you're running 2.45 in something that has enough power to go faster you should be able to go _a lot_ faster by more carefully driving it out of the hole.

BTW, I'm very curious about your build (I'm using a lot of similar parts), do you have a build thread/pics somewhere? (just send you an email also)

 

A good buddy of mine was running his 89 L98 IROC to 1.69s 60' times on nothing but a pair of Nitto drag radials and 100hp nitrous (only other mods were headers and exhaust) - no suspension mods, no TQ arm, stock front suspension... Even my street Camaro runs 1.95 on dry rotted michelin pilots with a super stiff suspension, probably drop 4 tenths on drag radials.

So 2.45 is either a mechanical traction problem (peg leg with snow tires) or sub par driving.

 

you should still be able to run low 2.0's with an open rear...

 

The bird started its life as a TPI 350.... with SLP headers and American thunder cat back, (plus free mods and tunning MAF) it ran 13.6-13.8 with 150 shot of juice it ran 12.1-12.6 at 110-111mph. Those are all on 1.80-2.10 60's... all on street tires and stock stall.

Since then (1.5 yrs ago)

I added a HX55 turbo to that old 350 and blent the cr@p out of it, so instead of rebuilding a gen 1 in bought a 6.0 and 4l80e. Got that in by using a jegs tunnel mount TA, also changed out the LCA's and put relocators on it while I was at it. Up and running last year, but I had a few grimlins in the tranny. After removing all traction control, torque managment it went out... I rebuilt it with all the goodies (36elm sprag, Kev discs, duel feed mods, etc..) and got a custom 9" Jakes Performance converter (6 bolt) billet with lock up, around 3600 stall (it will foot brake to 2500-2600)


After all that, I go back to the track. Mind you I have only gotten a hand full of runs, rain is killing the tracks around here. So every moment spent at the track is important

I have had this car since I joined TGO, ten yrs ago... It has been around the block. I am averaging .065 reaction times in it with the slowest being .153...

The 1st run was a full flash, o to 100% off the line ... laughable... tires smoking 2.5 something

The second run was 0 to 46% throttle through first, 100% as soon as in second, must of flashed to high and spun again 2.45 (best)

last run rolled on to 100% about the same, more wheel spinning 2.49...

Now in the comparisons I have read in this post, I would totally... agree 2 yrs ago

but One huge differents 700r4 first gear vs. 4l80e first gear with the same 3.27 rear and a higher stall... so if I loose traction at all, it vanishes and almost imposable to get back at low velocity.

Alky...Next I am going to try stalling it up....
then Drag Radials....
And if I have them yet QTP's.... 29x10.5 x 15...

by the way the 6.0 is getting 111mph, with a low of 107.6 mph(lil lean) and that is into 3rd gear at around 4200 rpm across the line.

TPI+exhaust+150shot= 6.0 hp...

 

Best i've done on a bolt on l98 car with 245 street tires was 1.88 ANything faster than 1.89 to me is really good on street tires.

But i dont know why you would waste your time trying to launch on street tires at the track..just get a set of drag radials or slicks on the side.

My best 60 foot with stock sway bar attached was 1.41 with a nitrous 383. Full suspension mods with stiff eibach prokit springs, adjustable tokico illumina shocks/struts, and all the other bolt ons. Had the big 36/24mm front and rear sway bars. Never took it off, dont like the feel of the car without a sway bar.

You should beable to go very fast with stock sway bar on the front.

 

I ran 1.9 60' with my TBI man. come on! 2.1 before vigilante stall converter, 1.9 after plus drag radials best 800 bucks I ever spent haha

 

As an update

1.92 60'
12.55 @ 113.68mph

I have a lil burst knock to get rid of... I have read that truck computers are set lil sensitive on burst knock settings.. I think I can get .2 or .3 off my 60' with modifing that, and a lil more psi in the QTP's that was at 18

But that's probably it with 3.23 rearend gears and that 4l80e first gears

Mind you I am still rocking the factory truck cam, and 75shot...

Camshaft and springs are the next parts installed

Hoosier 27x10.5x15 on some old camaro rims....only 15's I had (prostars, or bogarts)




Tonight I am going to try 100-125 shot see if they will kick me out for 11's without a Cage....