Well my ego has finally healed enough to post this up.

A couple of years ago I dyno'd this set-up (357' 180 AFR, HSR, LPE 211/219, 1.6 RR, 3" exhaust) at 330 Rwhp and 349 ft/lbs on a lean tune, around 15:1 WOT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nATv0SRE5eU

Since then I've picked up a APU1 with 32lbs injectors and started burning my own chips... Which I thought that I was doing prretty good at...

I went to our local strip and ran a 14.4 @ 94.7 Mph on drag radials.
2.11 sec 60' although if you listen I didn't really get WOT till the 2nd car length... (I didn't wanna break it my first run out...)
9.3 sec 1/8 mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fofypEcLn6c

Well, I'm kinda depressed to say the least...
I was running slower as the night went on (heat soaking) and my 9 bolt rear end is in need of a rebuild...
All that being said I thought that I shoulda run faster...?
Back to the drawing board I guess...

 

Have you ever redyno'd it with your tunes? It should make alot more power if it made 330 on 15 to 1 air fuel?

What is the altitude and temperature at that track? How heavy is the car with you in it?

Its a strong combination of parts and should go mid lower 12's if the 60 foot is 1.7 or so and the car is in the 3400-3500 lb range with you in it

 

Kudos for getting out there and running it! Did you log data during the run? Your power is indicative of alot more in it. Knock, fuel pump flaking out, etc, etc..

 

Gimli Dragway is 728' above sea level...
77*F that evening, kinda humid from what I remember.

I was Emulating but never logged this first run... (Rookie mistake)

I weighed the car at a local truck-stop and it was 3480lbs but I couldn't tell ya if that was with me in it or not... prob not... and I'm 2 bills.

I left the car in Drive and let the automatic take care of the shifting... woulda been about 5500 RPM outta 1st then around 5000 RPM into 3rd. Sure I could have shifted myself, but a buddy of mine spun his bottom end over reving on a missed shift into neutral so I was a bit weary of doing the same....

I have a triple pod guage package on my A-pillar with a wide band O2, fuel pressure, and tranny temp at the moment.
My Air-Fuel got righer as the night progressed (down to 10.1) due to heat soaking I guess, but on this first pass it was around 12.5
Fuel Pressure stayed steady at around 50
and Tranny stayed relativly cool for the evening between 180* & 200*F

Since the Test N' Tune day I've bought a HDR1 Memcal Header to read the ADS SuperChip that I ran on the dyno the day I pulled down the 330/349 figuring that maybe there was something there that I was missing... NOPE...

Well, it looks like I have all winter to ponder about it because the track closed down last weekend.
I really should take it back to the dyno... before the snow flys...
Just for the record, It felt alot stronger than my time slip...

Thanks for chiming in...

 

Thats loosing ALOT of power as it gets richer. Doesnt seem like it should be doing that as there are only a few tables based on coolant temps that adjust fueling. MAF cars dont use a MAT sensor for fueling so heat soaking wouldnt effect it. For the most part the motor should stay around the same air fuel. Sounds like you have some left in the tune.

Does it have a converter? stock converter is really hurting that combo.

 

Orr, it was sooo rich that I stalled at the staging lights and my bro took a vid of the car chugging black smoke out the exhaust... IDK man...
Unfortunately I don't get to drive it often enough at this time... The last couple of years have been like 4-500 miles a summer...

I've never touched the stock tq converter... I guess it wouldn't hurt to have a 2500 or so stall with a lock up right?

For the winter, I'm building a 11:1 383. Had all the parts in the basement for a year already. (Had to deal with a basement flood and reno first)
Eagle crank, 6" H-Beam Rods and Forged SRP Pistons with a XFI 268 Cam to go with the 180 AFR's and HSR.
I know, I know.... I could Rev higher and breathe better with 195's and a higher duration cam, but this car is mostly street driven and I want it to have rediculous torque!!!

Looks like a rear end rebuild or swap is in my future as well.
Maybe I'll be able to post a Dyno vid with this current setup soon... Work, Wife, Kids and $$$ will determine what happens in the near future...

 

WEll if you got a new motor coming then I guess play with this one as much as you can but dont get too involved in changing things. A converter is a huge help even on a street only driven car. 2500 is great, 2800 is better

Just watch your compression with that 383 and 268 cam. If flat tops and 65cc chambers on those heads, its at 11 to 1 and that 268 cam is abit too small for that compression. May not run on pump gas very well with out paying attention to fueling and spark plug heat range as well as timing. Thats alot of comp for a 218deg cam on a 113 lsa.

 

Hmmmm, I knew that I'd be close with the cam and the compression...
I'm gonna put a 2 pc Timing chain cover on to make cam swaps easier...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CVS-TC2350R/
Wouldn't advancing my cam timing help rather than being "straight up"?

 

advancing usually closes intake valve sooner and lowers rpm range of the cam, making it act alittle smaller. This would raise dynamic compression and make things alittle worse.

Now you could run 280 xfi on that motor with 180 heads. It will do ok with that, and can try giving the cam an extra 2-4 deg advance if you wanted but I'd leave it as is.

 

What if the XFI 268 was already sitting in my basement...?
I guess I could retard it then couldn't I?