I took me car to the 1/8 mile track for the first time tonight. The car is stock except for flowmaster catback, shorty flowtech headers and y pipe, and MSD coil and wires. It is a auto 1987 Iroc-z with tpi 305. My best time was 9.94, but it would run 10.1 alomst every time. It was faster than I thought it was. Are these number common with a almost stock car.

 

It was a slow number to me also, but it was faster than what I thought the car would do. But it was not the slowest thing out the either, and I dont have the best reaction time. Im hoping maybe a shift kit. will pick it up a little before I do any engine work.

 

Typical for any high mileage 5 liter TPI, with 2.73s and a 700R with no converter. The torque isnt there to push through the rear and weight.

 

About average for a pretty much stock LB9. My best with the 305 was 9.30, open shorty headers, tuned, lighter car than a Z, and really good fall air. 2.02 60'.

 

Your 9.94 would be roughly 15.60 in the 1/4 mile. Not bad for a stock 305.

 

My bone stock T/A 305 carb 5 speed 3.73 ran low 15s 1/4mi at Cordova in Illinois in the summer (when it was newer) as a comparison I don't remember the 1/8th numbers anymore.

 

I had a 2.2 60 foot. but my reaction time was .65. I need to work on that. 68.5 miles per hour. all that was my fastest times every other run was 10.2 ish. I hope a good shift kit will help out because it takes for ever to change gears.

 

I have a highschool income you ******* cur. On that income I've done full exhaust and an HSR. That's it. Ran a best of 13.7 at 100mph. I'm not going to hide anything. I though I recalled seeing 305 tpi's running low 9's in the 8th, thus his times seemed slow. Damn.

 

good for you, want a cookie?

lb9's are slow, especially autos with 2.73-3.08's and a stock converter. his car is in line with most other stock cars.

 

"I could be wrong." That was included in my first post. Clearly I am. I don't know much about the translation of .125 mile (that's 1/8th for you hillbilly) to .25 mile times. My bad.

 

here ya go:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/8th-quarter.php

and quit with the name calling. it's just not necessary.

 

Dang, high school huh? Lots of learning to do.

 

the comedic irony in you telling me what decimal conversions is has me on the floor

 

holley stealth ram



you have room for improvement elsewhere in my opinion before you'll see the benefit of 800+ dollars worth of intake manifold, throttle body, and fuel rails. things like converter, gears, tires, and some tune tweaking.

 

Yea I am gonna stick with the TPI. I like it I plan to add a shift kit and up grade the converter in the transmission. I want to put a small cam and have the heads worked over. I would like to get in the low 9 to high 8s. does this sound reasonable with what I am wanting to add? I am new to the car would. I usually deal with diesels.

 

I sense you are going to stick with the 305. This is fine, if you want a very mild street car that can hold it's own/cruiser. Most people would recommend new heads before putting any work into the stock ones; however, being it is a 305 (please don't crucify me for that) and you don't seem to want a slobbering alcohol monster, I think a full port job would be a nice upgrade for what you are wanting. If the cost for the port job goes much higher than $600, and it shouldn't at all, you would be too close to the cost of aftermarket to justify the port job, so keep the cost down.

A cam would compliment your ported heads nicely, keep it mild though unless you're willing to put more work into your stock heads' valves and valve springs. (Shimming the spring seats is a cheap way to achieve higher lift tolerances)

If you get a torque converter, get tires as well. The converter will help you launch it and get those 60 foot times down, but won't do much good if the tires don't stick. Someone else will have to recommend a torque converter as I have no knowledge as to the optimum range for a stockish 305.

With all of that or maybe even just most of that I don't see why mid to high 8's can't be achieved. You're thinking on the right track.

 

What decimal conversions ARE, not is. I guess English class is a recent development...

 

A 3.73 gear set(assuming you have a good posi), a set of LCAs and LCARBs with stick tires and a 150 shot of gas will amaze you at how much faster it would be. Get greedy with a 200 shot and you will be running mid 7s without a sweat. Save for a 383 or a LS swap and you can do it all motor(7s).

Sorry if I got greedy, 8s is not enough for most of us. Lol

 

Yes I plan to keep the 305 for now. And I plan on doing most of the head work myself. Keeping traction was not a problem. The limited slip works fine.

 

Imo, do upgrades that aren't motor related first. If you ever do go bigger than a 305 (and you probably will), the money you put into the 305 will be...wasted, in a sense. Not completely, because you'll get the fun out of it, but those upgrades won't transfer over if you go bigger later. Do things to the motor that can swap over to a 350, 383, etc, later on down the road. I'm a firm believer in building the motor last, because that's what gets swapped when people want more (and believe me, you WILL want more ).

Upgrade the trans (like you are planning to), rear end, and suspension/chassis before you do anything major to the motor. On that note, I'd do like Zones89rs said, aftermarket lower control arms and relocation brackets. Those two are under $200, and will help the car sixty much better. Then do a converter swap, and beef up the trans. I'd do these before the rear gear, because by then I'd go to a Moser 9" Once you're geared and stalled, you'll definitely need tires. Maybe even before. I went 2.02 sixty on my street tires, but Norwalk's track prep is amazing. Subframe connectors should be top priority as well.

Personally, I would do these upgrades plus minor exterior motor upgrades, before I even touch the internals. By that time, you'll be wanting more, and won't spend a dime camming or doing headwork to the 305, because you'll be doing it to a 350 or bigger That's my approach to progressively building up a hot street car.

 

so lets back up a little. give us a couple criteria to go by.

What would you like the car to do for you?

What would you be willing to do to the car?

What kind of HP/ET goals do you have?

What kind of money would you like to spend?

answer these things, and we can help you get there within your budget.

 

Followed by...;

Your TPI needs to be opened up, and your 305 needs to be able to rev high to be able to give you what you want from it... ya know, its called symmetry. Open the TPI up, there are a number of ways to do it, get a healthy cam with a good RPM range, open your stock heads up, and make sure your tune is dialed in...


This is a problem that needs to be resolved, and you shouldn't be racing anymore until it is fixed otherwise you are essentially cheating yourself when you look at your time slip...

 

In my old 89 Iroc 305 tpi , I put a compucam and a JET chip and adjustable Fuel regulator on it as well as a corvette servo in the trans with a 3:42 rear gear. The car was still very dependable and a lot more fun to drive. It still only ran a 9.68 in the 8th but that was all I wanted at the time. You need to figure out your goals and make a sensible plan and stick to it that way you wont be waisting money on things you don't need. Have fun with it most of all!

 

Im not looking for a all out race car. I would like to run high 8s but low 9s would be fine with me. And if I swap engines It will be to a LS based engine or a diesel. So any work I do at alot will not carry over to another engine, but I dont plan to swap for a while. I probably wont even take it to the track that much I just it to be a quick strret car. I bought some carbide burrs from snap-on to start poet matching and opening up the heads and intake.

 

High 8's can be had with a quality converter and a 3.42 gear, and full bolt ons.

 

and low 8's can be had with nothing but some shorty headers, exhaust, 3.73's and a 100 shot......love the sneeze.


I have been low 9's with that setup sans juice. stock converter. I was able to get it down to 2.00 60ft times. With a converter I think it would've been able to get into the 8's NA with a converter.