not much to update..been slow going the last 3 weeks..did get the Spal Fans and 2nd Fan shroud installed.. larger/more CFM. and at only 13Aamps ea..

 

got the K member torqued into the car.making sure the eng and trans.line up with the Cross member.had to leave things loose.to get them to line up.then Torqued in place. and started to install the Sphon A arms had all 3 styles they Made at the time. this was the only set I kept/liked. had to add shims/washers to the inside.as there was a bit of slop 1/16th" looking at them now..thinking I should use my BMR set...as the sphon arms just don't look all that grate to me.. note the sphon arms can be Adjusted to move the ball joint forward or back to take up wheel setback if you have any..(if using sphons K member..lol.

the BMR set are the basic style of A arms..nothing special. but also 4lb lighter..and have a niffty bump stop on them..

 

ah, interesting. also you have to decide if you want to use the arms with the delrin type roto-joint, or with the greasable polyurethane joint. Pros and cons to each.

 

was able to recoup $280 ($250) after shipping. From the first shroud.. sold today.. so only a loss of $56..lol the 2nd Fan shroud set up. has larger Fans/more CFM. champion Radiator will not cut larger holes in the shrouds they make and sell. they say the 11.1/4" hole is fine for a 13" fan.. (No) in my book it's not.. they don't have the tooling to do it anyway..I picked up 3 different tools to cut the shroud to fit my larger fans..in the end.. it was simple and fast..to cut the hole larger..to fit my Spal Fans.
Spal Fans installed..with 13" holes cut for ea Fan.

Working at the hard lines for the power steering cooler. and trans cooler next..all the trans lines will
be 6AN Stainless Steel PTFE. the power steering will be hard Aluminum 3/8 hard line on the return with 6AN Stainless Steel PTFE and a tube cooler under the radiator support. the trans cooler has its own Fan. and 6AN fittings.

 

what flare tool you using for the 37 degree stuff? In a few weeks I am going to be building my hardlines for my nitrous setup (connecting to your plate, the one you sold me) and I might make the first set of lines out of copper-nickle tube. Later on I might go with stainless hardline to replace the copper-nickle, but I am wondering if I buy one of those cheap-o $30 flare units for the 37 deg An fittings, because I do not want to spend $200 on an expensive one. Do you have one you recommend? I already have copper nickle tube from my brake lines that I build and both NX and N2O outlet directly told me that copper-nickle tube will be just fine for fuel and nitrous use.. it will just not be shiny silver.

 

pick up a roll of the SS Brake like 3/16. and a line straightener..the tool runs $90 line runs $26. the flair tool another $45..or ya can buy the 12" SS lines from NOS. and they will have a flair on 1 end.
this last set up I had custom ss 4an Lines made. 3an on 1 end 4an on the other to fit the plates...the hard lines will tend to crack. at the wrong time.. if not supported 100%

this tool will do it all..and runs about $40 to $45

 

the nice thing about doing the lines from a roll of brake line..and having the tools..you can also do the brake lines on your car/line lock.and front&rear brake lines. the way ya want..

just added a 2nd line Straightener (it will do upto 1/2") lines to do all the 3/8 hard lines I'm doing. tool ($109) but the lines will be so cool looking when done. and I get to polish them..sweet! also my old upper Brake lines will work to bench bleed the master cylinder..

 

cool. I have seen the stainless lines pre-flared on one end while shopping around online. I think that will be the route I go when do the second version of the these lines. I am going to have to do some very specific tight bends for my setup since I want to keep it compact .. and the best way I can think to do this as a trial run, would be to use the copper-nickle. Which, I already have the copper-Nickle tube, so I do not need to buy it. As I mentioned, I built all my own brakelines in the engine bay, under the car, on the rear axle, and from the line lock to each wheel, so I am very used to how to work the copper-nickle. Therefore I can get the nitrous system up and running before having to buy the line straightener, or the lines. I will simply need a 37 degree flare tool, so I am curious as to which one people use/trust?

 

no Proportioning Valve?

 

Good eye! I got rid of the big olde gm unit and got a nice Wilwood adjustable in-line prop valve. It’s just underneath the car where it’s out of sight, but I can easily reach under the car and turn the **** clockwise or counterclockwise for more/less rear brake pressure. It’s worked really well for a few years as I go between drag racing and autocross use with the car. Also it cleaned up the engine bay a good bit. I think it was only about $45?

 

i don't run a prop valve in my car....seems to work well so far! been like this for 5 years and has slowed the car down from 150+

 

power steering cooler installed. with hard 3/8" hard lines..had this 25 foot roll for as long as i have had the car close to 30 years... one last fitting is on the way..as I ran out of 6AN to hard line red and blue fittings (cant believe that. iv looked 5 times..lol)so ordered. a few more. hi presser Stainless Steel PTFE lines coming from pump to steering box..lower [size=13px]presser[/size] is on the hard lines to cooler and return..
mounted with the bolts that held the Factory cooler lines/fans
..just better looking and will do a better job..still not drilling holes.
trying to get all the lines done before dropping in the motor and trans...

 

been working 50+hrs a week..dont like it..cant do anything but eat and sleep..at home.. nothing getting done..lol
this is all in a week..bent a new return line..parts slow in/shipping ..

 

Update:
so playn with the A arms. found alot of play with the Sphon Arms. this comes from the Hardware/bolts sent with them..in order to get things snug/no slop I had to upgrade From metric bolts to SAE (1/2" grade 8) over the metric. they are a bit larger in Diameter. and a few I had to take down just a tad. to fit the inner bushings. =0 slop. the K member (UMI) needed to have the front holes cleaned of any Powder Coat. for the bolts to fit..all other Holes are fine/snug.(the front must be close to the guy Applying the powder). with the 1/2" Grade 8 bolts lubed with the good stuff.they are installed with out any slop/movement. even before tightening the bolts. but without drag when moved..(what I was looking for) also I added hardened washers on the outside of ea bolt 8 washers/4 bolts. and added 3/4" length to all bolts over the size sent.. to Accommodate the the Nylock (+ a dab of blue locktite just me) nuts and washers. used.

pic below shows the metric bolts sent..with A arms. all installed.. lots of slop! you could move the arms back and forth a full 1/8+ inch /pulling and pushing on the arms..not what I would want..I think with the install and the metric bolts sold with the Kits/parts. it makes for a drop in install..and works for the Average installer. But if ya want 0 play..it starts with Hand fitting..its easy when ya have the tools on hand..the whole reason for going with this type of joint on my A arms. was to get 0 slop..I got 0 slop after hand fitting of the parts.. 0 slop in the K member to bolts..0 slop in the bushings on the A arms..Holes drilled in inner bushing to allow lube to get to Bolts inside of Bushings..(this ya can skip) if ya pre lube with a Good Lube..




The hand fitting of the bolts only takes a few min with Emory cloth.180&240 down to 600. and a power drill. always mod the cheap parts..never the money part. in the end ya get a nice fitting part the when lubed moves and feels like glass.. if I could not have gotten the Sphone A arms to fit like I wanted I would have just bolted in the BMR A arms.. with the 1/2" Bolts also.. as the bolts sent with the BMR A arms have the same slop in them as the Sphons. step away from the Metric Bolts Guys..FYI and yes Use Good Lube not the cheap Black/gray stuff/that makes a mess.. and remember the Metric 10.9 ratting is the same as grade 8.
Below. Hand fit parts in place.

whats hand fit? shank/shoulder of Grade 8 bolts taken down to slide into the inside bushing that's in the A arms.
shoulders on the Grade8 stuff is always a bit thicker the the threads. so makes for a nice fit..(0 slop)

note if i would have known this months ago..I would have orderd AN bolts to what I would need..but turning the grade 8 bolts into what works is Ok for now..

 

also had to install 1" longer bolts in the clamp plate..for use with the sphon strut tower plates.. (like there set up). but not the top Brackets. the top Brackets are from Founders. also when I ordered the underside plates..I wanted them in bare steel..and i did them in red.to Match the other red parts under the Car.
the longer bolts are needed to work with the sphon plates and founders Strut towers brackets. as the steel is thicker. so another hand fit. set up. to get it the way I wanted...this adds 8lbs back to the front end..over the stock set up..= strut tower brackets and lower support plates.. Looking into having the plates made out of Billet Aluminum..should save 3 to 4lbs.

 

also checking the last few upgrade to the PBR rear brakes. for fitment after the last set of mods


this was the cut to the E Brake paw. to git it more room from the rim. when the E brake is used. in full set=parking brake used it is still 1/8" from rim.



and room for the static bal

NOTE: a 16" wheel or 17" wheel will give you more room.. this is a 15" wheel and as tight as ya can go..
2 sets of rear wheels on hand..with bead locks and with out bead locks..(just swap tire rim sets. when ya need to) thank you summit Racing for the support and weld racing for the wheels..

 

picked this up years ago. and just did not like the size (to big)Takes up a lot of room. at the time i was ok with it..but not any more. will be going into the yard sale soon.

I did another type.(size) and had to redo a few things to it..make it Vented. and set it up for AN fittings. will buff it out before the last install..and like aways no holes drilled factory holes used. also the tube by the cap on it is removed and plugged 1/16NPT.

 

Ok so when I made My intake from a old Tunnel ram. I went with 11"over all Height with carbs/Throttlebodies.and blowout plats with NOS plates this is the Hight of the 502 RAM JET intake. as I have seen one under a 2" cowl hood on a 3rd gen Carmaro. so adding a air cleaner sould fit under a 5" cowl hood...(My thinking) oops! just looks to tall...

The box = my intake with the sort stumpy air cleaner on it..more rethinking in the works (Box from eng block to top is 15" tall = what my intake and shortest air cleaner is)

Just dont like the size of filter. To small. But I could make a new base for this lid. dropping it down a full 1 1'4" and sealing it to the Cowl hood.base would be made from 1/8th" plate Aluminum. could even have K&N Make a full 2" tall filter (1 1/2" tall shown)

and this set Ugly has hell to me..trying off the shelf parts sucks..could cut the neck down by 3/4" dropping it down to 14"

Had R2C Make this air cleaner for me..but the base and lid have a hump in them making them 3" to Tall. its a 3 1/2" tall filter.

looking at going with out blow out plates that would drop it another 1 1/2". will do some test fitting today.. Dont want to By a 2nd bigger cowl hood this one is listed as a 5". the largest bolt on I could get is a 6"





might have to go with this hood. VFN Bolt on 6" Sunoco Style

 

Or do I cut a hole in my old hood?

 

Man, why would you post this. Guy likes to toot his horn way to much. Never post pics of guns.

 

Post is from close to 2 years ago..a bit slow are we?
I know guys who Like Guns.. and are not Frightened by them.. or pics of them..Just sayn.. I dont know if this site has a safe space/place for you?
Made a Living in the Gun Business. and still do from time to time.clearing out old parts and Junk..sorry ya dont like it.I dont Remember clicking onto 1 of your Post and Sniveling. The nice thing about this site. like others..is you don t have to click on a post/topic ya dont like...So ya Can Kick rocks...

 

that sunoco hood is a wildly awesome looking hood, but it really depends if you want that swoopy look compared tot eh angular style of the typical cowl induction hoods.

do you think you need to have the blowout plates in there? I've never dug into when an engine would NEED them, but I do know how they function. If you think you need them, well, keep em there as a safety

 

IT's a what if. for the Nitrous set up. I have not had a Back fire in the past with NOS. but with the todays setup. I skipped installing one in the intake box top to save the intake. If I did have a back fire. it turned out so well I would like to save it. till I have Hogan Or M&M Make another Intake for me.. I am looking at doing away with the NOS Plate and getting the blowout Plate and NOS in 1 unit. this will drop every thing down 1". ($375 ea) I need 2 of them.



would like to stay with a reg cowl hood..but the 6" they have looks to be about the same as what I have. lol

 

trying to fit the Ring Brothers Billet hood Hinges. and found I will have to cut them down to fit My hood. NOTE my GM Hinges fit the aftermarket Fiberglass hoods. both..
the bracket part of the Hinges. that bolts to the hood (top plate) of hinge. is to thick. to fit into the contour of the hood. and will need to be shaped to fit. to let it bolt up to the hood.
all pics above with the hood on the car are with my Factory Hinges.

from ring brothers site
Designed for use as a direct replacement, these hood hinges will require no alterations for vehicle installations. Whether you are using a fiberglass or steel hood, you will experience a smooth and effortless action due to the characteristics of a gas charged spring compared to an original mechanical spring. Ringbrothers hood hinges are machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum and are available with a solid frame or an open air frame design for a truly distinguished look with uncompromised strength and durability.

Im going to call the in the AM before I start to fit them...LOL

 

more on the billet hinges.
talked to Ryan at ring brothers. it will not Void warranty to open up the plates. they have only seen this one time before. . a easy fix. GM just used larger Holes. remember to use soap on your cutter to keep it from clogging. when doing the cut.. did the first one..fits 100% now..


pic below. before cutting

 

its the small Details that make things ..Just work.. had to drive 30 miles to get a 1/16 NPT tap. but picked one up.. made a round trip and also picked up my 4th 3rd member setup. Locker 3.25 Bearing 3.90 gears 1350 Billet Yoke like the others wanted to start of with the 3.90s with 775tq at 3000rpm want to see it the car will stay hooked up before moving up to the 4.11/4.30/ and or the 4.56s(a bit deep) Im thinking

the 4th 3rd member. Had the parts sitting for over a year..was time to have it put together!






Ran out of colors for the pinon supports.. so now I have 2 black ones..will have to stamp it..

 

my 5" cowl is to low in the front part



Test fit my 5" cowl ..need 2" more to the front spot.. to clear..
VFN 6" Sunoco Style Cowl ORDERD today 5 month ship date. but think I have the room with it..as its 3" taller in the front (place I need it) to clear.

 

working the rear brake lines..the parts from Classic tube suck! so I did a set myself.. SS 3/16 lines.

 

today going to install all the front end suspension. that's the plan. as the rear is set to go back in ..

did have to install a hole to help with bleeding the brakes..to keep the fluid from going every place..as the tube will now slip over the bleeder.



had my rear lines made the same size as the factory GM lines.. the after market SS lines are a bit long and need large loops in them. see if I can make it look better and work.

starting off with 12" 200lb front end springs on the Coil overs. also have a set of 12" 175. but as its a th400 and BBC even in aluminum..Im thinking the 200lb springs should be in the Ball park.. need to get a working Hight of 8 to 9" inch tall.. they tell me..

 

so I picked up a 2nd set of CAMBER PLATES for the front end alinement. so the Chrome parts do get scared up..and will be used only till I get home to swap out the parts..
ANY body looking for a good deal on a full set in red used for 1HR.? (complete kit) in red


doing this as I know some shops just dont get it..

 

got to Talk to the the production manger of Green filters. and they are making me a filter to fit my drop brace. so I don't have to sit by till Feb. hope to get it in the next Month. she told me it was going to be a priority.. now its up SCOOTER to get the Harness done..

If the filter works out I could use the 5" Cowl (first hood) the filter and base will sit over the TB's hiding them. but dropping the filter down low. to close the hood.. and yes the filter will be the same color as K&Ns..lol
what if this was sitting down 4" lower over the TB/tbs

 

Sorry

 

it's been a rough year for all of us... I just came down with Shingles...WTF talk about pain..wow.. and in my left leg.. feels like a Bad Bad Sun burn 24/7. Walking with a limp at this point... lol
anyway. just had the tow Vehicle back from the body shop.. had a fender front bumper cover and new headlights replaced.. 2005 1500 Dodge Daytona. to go with my 91 1500 SS.

 

it's been a rough year for all of us... I just came down with Shingles...WTF talk about pain..wow.. and in my left leg.. feels like a Bad Bad Sun burn 24/7. Walking with a limp at this point... lol
anyway. just had the tow Vehicle back from the body shop.. had a fender front bumper cover and new headlights replaced.. 2005 1500 Dodge Daytona. to go with my 91 1500 SS.

 

Getting back to working on the car..the last 4 weeks been down and out ..just not feeling it. limp is almost gone..and feeling better..
Test fitting the front coil overs. getting set to install the front end.. still need a bit of fitment. but everything bolts up. next the willwood 6 piston front brakes. going to start off with 12" 200lb front springs. the set came with 175lb springs but with the Aluminum BBC and TH400. Im thinking just add the 50lb of spring. will see when it's all together...

some of the factory GM brake line brakets dont fit the Viking struts..so had to make up somthing that would not mark up the struts. but hold the lines.

 

test fit of all the parts..and all fit 100%.

they look good..and look even better with the Aluma Star 2.0 wheels.

just the test fit. before all the Loctite & goop.

 

AND I Wanted to thank Willwood for the upgrades. to Wilwood's newest DynaPro DP6A. they did this when they First came out with them..when I had them on the phone when I first ordered my willwood set. they asked me if I would like to Try them out. just send in my 4 piston calipers and they would trade me..NO COST.. AGAIN Thank you Willwood.


they are MONSTERS the 4 piston would have been enough. but what the heck. Why not.

 

installing the Viking struts on the GM spindles I found the is a gap between the spindles and struts. more than what I want. (0.090") so made some shims (0.082") 1 for ea side. Nice fit now. (I had an idea them no parking signs would come in handy.)

 

Shout out to green filters. for making this a Priority Production. (Production manager) told me they would make it a Priority. so, I would not have to wait till march/April. 2022.. came in today!
now I have the filter. I can mockup the Base and Lid. I should get the total height down to 11" total. (Drop base air cleaner Base)

 

I’ve always wanted to have another .75 or 1.00” of height on my current air filter. About how much $ cost/effort was involved to accomplish this ? I don’t run any filter while drag racing, but I do run one on the street and auto crossing. I know there is math involved to determine how much airflow I need into the engine at WOT, so I could go about doing that, but also for cosmetic reasons, my filter is the right shape that I want, but a little too short in height .

 

in my case. I have to drop the air filter it's self-down. to do that I had to make it wide and long Enough to cover the linkage and fuel lines. in order to drop it. and still keep enough filter to feed the 615cid. K&N would not made Me a Filter the size I wanted. Green Filters Jumped on it. this filter was $140ish. I think the pan will run me $2 to $400 with a Good fab Shop.

this making of parts without the tools to do it sucks. If i had the larger sheet metal working tools I could do this Myself. in in your case. start looking at large Cake pans. flip it upside down. and make a rim to hold the filter. this would be a start. did that before. its lower cost to having one made start to finish.

wish the could make a drop base for this.

 

gotcha.
Well, I do not need (or want) a drop base setup, I simply just want a taller filter element itself. I don' think I need one, but I would like one, one day. I'll keep that Green Filters company in mind. I see they offer various color filter elements; grey would be ok with me. If they could assemble one for $50-80 I might go for it.. but not currently, got a few other "more important" winter projects, like pulling the motor out, fixing oil leak, fixing oil pump, building a y-pipe, full exhaust re-do, a-pillar gauge setup, and taller drag tires for the rear.

 

So the 2nd style hood this Bolt on one From VFN shipped out last week 2" taller in a spot I need (more to the front of the eng). as well as Willson Manifolds is working with me to redo my blow out plates.so I can get rid of the 1/2" NOS plates. Scooter is doing the Harness. should be running in the spring. been cold and freezing.

 

came in what looks like good shape. will need to trim off a 1/4" front lip but. Im thinking this might have room to fit. VFN installd bolts in all the place that needs them sweet! (its a bolt on) a bit dusty. but im Ok with the dust..not digging the style. as I like a standard shape of cowl hood. But just want it to fit.

needed a bit more room to the front half of the cowl I have.

 

I called Ed a few weeks back and over the phone quote for 2- 3/8 into 4.5" collector was under a grand. He will send them to you tack welded so you can adjust as necessary.

 

Where did you get that radiator top mount at?

 

Top radiator support..finished a project from another member..
As for the headers..Bolt in as you see them..tad over $2300.

 

Great thank you! She looks beautiful, cant wait to see final product!

 

this hood will be up for sale..

 

Scooter is doing my wiring harness. hopefully I'll get it this Spring.. Ordered It 10 months ago..lol. It's been No rush.but we're getting down to game time..