When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
So I'm at that point where my car is now too fast so I need to do a few things to pass tech. The most important is the roll bar.
My issue with literally every photo I've seen is the bar that comes down from the shoulder to the floor. I don't know how you smaller guys are, but when I'm sitting in the car I'm basically up against the door panel. My car is also a manual transmission car, so I need legroom. My leg/knee is often resting against the door panel.
Anyone get creative on the side bar ?
I know everyone talks about removable swing out bars for the street, but looking at photos I don't think I could physically drive the car with where most your bars are.
I need to revisit the rules i thought a 6 pt roll bar was all that was required for 10.00 and slower
It is. I have no bar in the car right now.
Technically, it looks like you just need a 5 point. But the problem is the door bar. Unless I can somehow get it to be right against the door panel, but the way it has to cross down it would need to go through the arm rest / door pull.
Technically, it looks like you just need a 5 point. But the problem is the door bar. Unless I can somehow get it to be right against the door panel, but the way it has to cross down it would need to go through the arm rest / door pull.
I see yeah if you need the room the arm rest likely has to go. Shaping the
bar around may not work if it does not cross thru your shoulder /elbow area like its suppose to. Not being a cage you have a bit more flexibility where the bar can attach to the floor by the feet i guess.
The door bars are bolt in, so there should be some adjustment in height. I've never tried as it is difficult enough at this height :-)
I made some door pulls that utilize the OEM mounting points and used modified wheel center caps to cover the hole by the switches.
The door bars are bolt in, so there should be some adjustment in height. I've never tried as it is difficult enough at this height :-)
I made some door pulls that utilize the OEM mounting points and used modified wheel center caps to cover the hole by the switches.
I'm pretty sure S&W makes a roll bar kit, that has prebent door bars to go around the door handle. If not, my fab guy could have made them in his bender.
I took mine out for weight.
I don't need the handle, I use the door handle opener, or the top of the door or glass to pull it closed.
I'm pretty sure S&W makes a roll bar kit, that has prebent door bars to go around the door handle. If not, my fab guy could have made them in his bender.
I took mine out for weight.
I don't need the handle, I use the door handle opener, or the top of the door or glass to pull it closed.
We can make the bar here too, the issue is the bar will be very intrusive. I'm not exactly a small guy.
Just scrolling through the threads. As per the rulebook photos above, a 5 point bar is minimum however the passenger door bar is always installed to make it a 6 point roll bar. The 6 point roll bar is required from 10.00 to 11.49. Mounting points are not specific since there are so many different makes and models of cars. They give a general location each point needs to be and it's the owners decision as where best to mount them. The door bar needs to pass between the shoulder and elbow of the driver so don't install it until the seat location is determined and the driver is in the seat. Swing out door bars are legal to 8.50's however the majority of cars with a full cage do not have swing out bars. Stock interior panels always cause a conflict with door bars. The drop down bar in the above photo (blue car) is legal as long as the upper part goes between the shoulder and elbow. I've seen really dumb ones for street use that go past the driver then drop right down to the floor before extending forward to the a-pillar position. Without the door bar(s) a 4 point roll bar is only a show bar and won't tech below 11.50.
6 point roll bars are also made from 1-3/4" tubing. Full cages use many different sized tubes but the main tubes are only 1-5/8". The minimum wall thickness allowed is 0.118". Wall thickness of the tubing depends on the type of tubing. DOM tubing can get away with 0.120" thickness while ERW tubing needs 0.134" to meet the 0.118" thickness minimum.
Can't remember the actual number but my full cage adds about 250 pounds to the car. Every tube has a specific purpose. I feel safer going down the track at 150+ mph in my car than I do driving down the highway at 70 mph in my DD.
Just scrolling through the threads. As per the rulebook photos above, a 5 point bar is minimum however the passenger door bar is always installed to make it a 6 point roll bar. The 6 point roll bar is required from 10.00 to 11.49. Mounting points are not specific since there are so many different makes and models of cars. They give a general location each point needs to be and it's the owners decision as where best to mount them. The door bar needs to pass between the shoulder and elbow of the driver so don't install it until the seat location is determined and the driver is in the seat. Swing out door bars are legal to 8.50's however the majority of cars with a full cage do not have swing out bars. Stock interior panels always cause a conflict with door bars. The drop down bar in the above photo (blue car) is legal as long as the upper part goes between the shoulder and elbow. I've seen really dumb ones for street use that go past the driver then drop right down to the floor before extending forward to the a-pillar position. Without the door bar(s) a 4 point roll bar is only a show bar and won't tech below 11.50.
6 point roll bars are also made from 1-3/4" tubing. Full cages use many different sized tubes but the main tubes are only 1-5/8". The minimum wall thickness allowed is 0.118". Wall thickness of the tubing depends on the type of tubing. DOM tubing can get away with 0.120" thickness while ERW tubing needs 0.134" to meet the 0.118" thickness minimum.
Can't remember the actual number but my full cage adds about 250 pounds to the car. Every tube has a specific purpose. I feel safer going down the track at 150+ mph in my car than I do driving down the highway at 70 mph in my DD.
Is it actually a 6 point that is required? The illustrations show a 5 point and it is just referenced as a "roll bar" in the NHRA manual so I assumed a 5 point was all that was required.
Interesting though that you can put an S in the bar as long as it crosses the elbow area. Maybe we can bend it around the door handle.
I've seen it bent around the door handle often.
The 5-point vs 6 point issue really just comes down to door bars. You only are required to have one on the drivers side (fifth-point) and not on the pass side. For symmetry, strength, and overall completeness, most people put in the door bar on the drivers side also (sixth point). I cant say I've ever seen a normal-ish car with only a drivers side door-bar, but I guess for weight savings or ease of entry-exit for a passenger, the pass side bar could be skipped. Thats why I like my swingouts. Not only can they swing out of the way, but I can just remove the one mounting bolt at the bottom of the door bar (and the Q pin) and have NO door bars at all, and then put them back in for an event when needed.
I've seen it bent around the door handle often.
The 5-point vs 6 point issue really just comes down to door bars. You only are required to have one on the drivers side (fifth-point) and not on the pass side. For symmetry, strength, and overall completeness, most people put in the door bar on the drivers side also (sixth point). I cant say I've ever seen a normal-ish car with only a drivers side door-bar, but I guess for weight savings or ease of entry-exit for a passenger, the pass side bar could be skipped. Thats why I like my swingouts. Not only can they swing out of the way, but I can just remove the one mounting bolt at the bottom of the door bar (and the Q pin) and have NO door bars at all, and then put them back in for an event when needed.
I'm sure somewhere there are pictures of your cage with the doors closed? I like that idea of the swing out door bar with the notion of removing it when it's not a legality requirement.
yup! here are a few
The seat contours I have allowed the angle of the bar to pass through that outer pocket and also skip by the door handle. The guy who built this did a great job and didn't need to put any bends in the door bars.
-ugh, I need to take out my fabric seats again and re-dye the color black. Every couple years they need it.
i just did a 6 point chromoly bar in a stick shift car. we did clevis style swingouts. i bent the door bar to keep the arm rest. i think it turned out good. the kid that drives the car is 6'1" and has big feet. he doesn't complain to me any about where i placed the bar. i'm 6'0" and have normal sized feet, but i'm wide. i also am conformable in this car. the door bars are tied to the sfc's on this car, so no floor plates at the door bar (in case anyone is wondering)
I need to get a photo loaded, but we took the door bar to the vertical portion of the floor, and put in swing-outs. 6-point system. Lots of foot room that way. DId remove the door arm rests.
