dpends on your budget really, 350 is easy power, 305 you have to work hard to get to it

 

It'll be worth it to make a 305 produce 400hp N/A torque i dunno, 450, 550 even? lol, I am just waiting for his next update because this is nail biting almost maddening to see how well it does.

 

yeah itll def be worth it, 305 can easily make 1hp per cubic inch, but i can be costly dpending on your setup, but the 350 can make more with less. im not disagreeing as a have two small cubic inch engines in building and one 350 and i prefer the smaller ones right now

 

People don't seem to get that you can make a 305 do anything much more than a 2.8... honestly, I'd bet that you'd have more problems convincing someone that you went 11's with a 305 then a 2.8 even though it makes no sence.

There was more than word of mouth, but it wasn't really a 305 but a destroked 350 (or a .020 over 302, 4.020" bore, 3" stroke, that's very different than 3.763" bore and 3.48" stroke)

 

the destroked 302 passing as a 305 is sorta like the 400 passing as a 350

 

it's a bored 302, or a bored and destroked 350...

And yea, that's my point, going fast with that motor is totally different then going fast with a 305, lets start with most of the good performance cylinder heads will work well on it, where they won't work with the 305...

 

Actually, I just found specs that I had saved from his old site for the car:
ENGINE
BLOCK Bowtie 4.025” bore x 3.0” stroke-305 cu/in.
RODS Crower 6”
PISTONS J.E. 8.25 C.R.
CAM Crower hyd. roller 114 L.S.- .520” lift.
HEADS Trickflow G2 - 2.02” int. (275 CFM) – 1.6” exh. (210 cfm)

 

4x3 is definitely as 302. 307 is like 3.875 x 3.25, and 305 is 3.736 x 3.48

 

Braided fuel line got here today, but I'm still waiting on the fuel pump and 5/16 fittings from Earls Plumbing. Hopefully they get here soon because I want to wrap up the fuel system as soon as possible. In the mean time, the return lines were o-ring flared....

 

nice, ill keep up to date on all this

 

Who'd you wind up having do the Saginaws?

 

Why didn't you flare the lines 37 degrees / AN / JIC to start with instead of using the expensive conversion fittings?

 

It sounds like he bought the hydraulic flare tool kit.

 

Rob- whats the ETA on getting the car running??

 

Just going to show you guys how I cut the access panel for the fuel pump in the back, and how the fuel lines are now routed. Other than maybe a larger aluminum radiator the engine is ready to be fired up. The only thing left is the ECM selection, and I honestly don't know which route I am going to choose. I have patiently been waiting for Turbo Tweak to give an update on their 749/730 boost codes, but no word as of yet. If I go with the Megasquirt I will simply install a toggle switch for the TC lockup, as well as an independent harness control from Painless for the e-fan. Other than the ECM and a few minor details like the radiator and hoses, she's ready to roar....

 

If you happen to have a production harness the adapter is like $35 I used it for my TBI setup. Supports TCC and fan too I think or it would be easy enough to add. I used the Hayden controller as well.

 

Was initially going to go with the Moroso universal fuel access kit in the back, but it doesn't have enough clearance to remove the intank assembly when opened. So in it's place I just picked up some 16-gauge 12" by 24" sheet metal. After removing the back carpet, I made my cardboard cutout then transferred it over to the sheet metal, then made my cut and smoothed the edges. From there, the cardboard cutout gets it's center removed about 1 1/4" all around from it's outer edge, then put back into place to outline the actual cut on the body above the fuel tank....

 

The center of the cardboard cutout was cut 1 1/4" all around from the edge, and the bolt holes were set into place. It was then placed on top of the metal cutout, with the bolt holes marked down, then drilled out. Then place the cardboard cutout back over the fuel pump location, mark the bolt holes, as well as the center area in which gets removed....

 

rob megasquirt can control the fans ill take some pics of what i did with mine though.
i dont have mine hooked to the ms unit, instead i used the stock fan harness, wired the relay to battery one trigger wire is relayed to a factory fan switch.the other fan is going to be wired to a toggle switch or just wired up so if the key is on the fan is on,

the one wired to the fan switch in the head will be my backup fan if the motor gets to hot, thought i thought about getting a dbl pole switch in one position the fan switch will have control of the fan but if i flip the switch the other way i can manually overide it and turn the second fan on whenever i want

 

Finished the access panel, I hit it with Metallic Blue, and am securing it with stainless sheetmetal screws. I'm not going to bother with making a gasket to place in between the panel and the body, as I'm simply going to use 100% silicone to seal it all up once the fuel pump is in and fuel lines are attached. The hole is halfway cut, it started to rain so I'll wrap that up tomorrow. Sorry for the glare in the center of the pic....

 

So the tank hangs from straps under the car, and you're looking to screw the hatch down with screws, how are you going to keep the tank from possibly bouncing up and puncturing itself on the screw points?

 

Is this your first access panel lol....?

There is four to five inches of clearance between the upper part of the tank and the hatch board. The screws will stick out less than a 1/4 of an inch underneath when fastened. Even if a tremendous bump were to occur, the top of the intank assembly (metal fuel lines, fittings and clamps) will hit the bottom of the panel first. The screws aren't a factor whatsoever....

 

Wow, what a waste of time. The entry has been cut, and I still need to smooth out the edges. The whole point of doing this was because I was under the impression that the L69's had an "additional" electric fuel pump to help with vapor lock, but, as you can clearly see, there is NO electric pump to be found. Meh, hopefully that answers the question of if all L69's came with an electric pump or not, because this Anniversary Edition did not....

 

The pump was a TSB for vapor lock. If the car didn't experience vapor lock it didn't get the in-tank pump. At least you know for sure yours doesn't have it now.

 

What's bothering me is that I was so intent on getting the hole cut that I should have immediately known there was no pump simply by looking at the wiring harness to the tank. Anyways, it's done though, and it should look pretty good once I sand then hit the trunk with some white paint....

 

It'd be easier for me to run a seperate harness for the e-fan from Painless Wiring or Be Cool because I pulled all of the stock ECM wiring (in tact), and only kept the main wiring. I would just need to use the thread on the drivers side head for my relay. If I go MSII I will definitely need to hookup the TCC though for sure. What are you doing w/your lockup Dave? Draconic made an excellent suggestion above....

 

If I had to do it all over again, I would definitely avoid the more expensive fittings lol....

 

no lockup for me,never even used one on the v6 car, if i read corectly though the 700r4 will lockup all on its own at 90mph, speed limits around here are 80mph on all the highways everyone routinley cruises at 90mph+

when i swap my trans out it will either be a 2004r with a stage right trans brake or a th400

 

It's Great to see your build and this thread still going!

 

The mid-80's carb K10 trucks and others with the 700R4 used a vacuum switch on the firewall to lockup the TCC. It is just a vacuum switch that is closed during cruise to send power to the TCC solenoid. Under heavy throttle the vacuum drops and opens the switch inside releasing the TCC solenoid. You could use that switch for your TCC.

 

Here is a schematic using relays and the switch only. PN is on the diagram

 

I decided to go w/the Megasquirt, you guys talked me into it lol, as I simply cannot wait anymore and I'm itching to lay waste to everything around me within a fifty mile radius lol. Last mod to the engine may be relocating the knock sensor behind the distributor in the same location the Buick V6's have them, as it'll help in making the Megasquirt harness all the more simpler in terms of routing. Nice chunky radiator is on it's way, and pics of the finished fuel system will be up shortly....

A nine second ET may very well be asking for too much (although she should run it if she holds together), but I will guarantee a low ten second pass....

 

If you're GUARANTEEING A 10 SECOND PASS...I wanna be there in person to see that...

Dan

 

Oh she'll be running bottom tens alright, that's for sure....

BBS Designs is back, so I opted to go with a complete single turbo setup from them. Once the 305 blows up, hopefully it won't, but I'm sure everyone here knows that it will lol, I'll be swapping to a fully forged 355, so its better to have the headers done right the first time so I can just drop the next SBC in, and as many of you know BBS are the strongest, and most complete kits out there. The turbo is a Precision T-88 with T4 flange. Did not order the Megasquirt yet as I have been messing around with the GTA, but I'm giving myself a deadline, and it has to be wrapped up late this month, or early July....

 

I don't think Ed is doing turbo kits anymore... to the best of my knowledge years ago Ed said he was gonna do one last run for a sets of turbo headers (LIES LIES LIES!!! LOL) and that was it. Do you know something I don't know??

 

heh, something like this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...igns-back.html

 

88mm may be a little big for this engine, no?

 

thats the same turbo im putting on my 383, its a big turbo and honestly i doubt it will fit on the bbsdesign single turbo setup, or if you do make it fit by raising the turbo flange up a couple inches to clear the valve covers it will stick out past the hood like i would say a good 4 or 5 inches, why not build some up and forward headers and put the turbo in the battery place? this turbo is small for being a 88mm but its much biggere than most turbos. I beleive the single turbo kit was for a 61mm

 

It's big for everyday use, and wouldn't be too enjoyable for the street. The turbo itself will laugh at a nine second pass, so the idea is to see if the 305 has enough in it to comply with what the turbo is capable of. I do know of a 76 turbo with T6 flange that spools instantaneously with a much smaller LC2 engine, so the 305 should have no problem spooling the T88. The main reason for the big turbo though is because a 355 is going in once the 305 starts to blow chunks....

The turbo is essentially a tad larger than the T76 that Ed from BBS is running. It may require some slight valve cover, or even strut tower notching, but one way or another I will make it fit. I'm also running a much better hood, but I was saving that for later on....

 

That is fine assuming that you build your 305 to move the same air as the LC2.

Honestly, I don't like the T88 on most engines, few run faster with it then with something in the T76 range and it doesn't spool as well. In most cases, if that's an appropriate size turbo I would usually pick some other design that seems to work better.

Heh, assuming it doesn't blow chunks through the turbo...

 

Just have it stick out like mine CAI at its finest

FWIW my buddy ran an 88mm on a 4.8L truck LSx motor with LS6 intake I think, 230/236 cam, ported 317 heads. Ran fine, made 702whp I believe on 23 psi in a full size pickup truck, on pump gas. Spun to 7500+ rpm tho. IF you do the numbers, it fits the 88 map very well.

That said the 305 may be ok but needs to move some air via rpm to really get into the 88mm map

 

rob check out the logs im building. i even have 8 extra weld els, that 88 while smaller then my 76 still isnt going to fit mounted like ur thinking. ur going to have to do a battery tray mount.

on tuesday ill finish up my logs i need to run out and get a holesaw to finish the upper tubes

 

So what do you guys think then, do you think I should go with a cheapie turbo for this build being that the 305 will inevitably blow chunks? I could use the T88 for something else as the price was too good to part with it, and as 83 Crossfire mentioned I'd hate to see it ruined for this type of kamikaze build going full banzai blast. I could always spend another five hundred for a cheapie turbo that will fit under the hood, as the specs on some of them sound pretty decent, but the quality of course is very questionable. Definitely going to go with the single BBS turbo header setup though. Hell, maybe Ed from BBS can fab me up the twin setup that I originally planned on instead, definitely an option, just need him to get started asap though....

 

my thoughts are that rpms are not something you want on a stock bottom end. having said that, i would put a 76 on it. if you cant spin the engine, your going to need to get your power made asap. a good 76 on a good 350 in a good car can take you past the 9's, anyways.

 

True, you can try 600 bucks for a T4 .96 T76 from master power for this setup and see where that gets you. SHOULD fit under the hood with the right header...i dont think they are much bigger than my T70's and if I recall right, T70 on BBS header fits under the hood, the BBS flange was a good deal lower than my setup

 

rob ebay gt45 its only a 70mm inducer but it will support about 550-600 rwhp.
u can get one for 299 shipped to ur door from ebay or vsracing on the turbo forums.

theres also lots of guys using those turbos with no issues at all on the turbo forums


or u can get the turbo i have i paid 112 bucks for mine and it was rebuilt

 

hmm i cant find u a deal on the tv7512 but they have one for 500 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garre...Q5fAccessories

the tv7512 is a t6 flanged turbo .96 ex housing with an 83mm ex wheel
(mine happens to have a 1.08 housing)
and the coldside is 76mm

great turbo but its physically large


for the 305 id go with the china gt45

 

The engine has a mix match of parts that don't fit well with a T88. A stock 305 rev limited bottom end with a TPI intake is not cut out for a T88. I would put the China GT45 on it like project89 recommended.
I have a couple BW S400-HP88 units with 1.39 A/R housings and I wouldn't even think about putting them on anything less than 327ci. Even at that it would need a good bottom end to rev and good heads and big cam.

 

the gt45 will also fit the bbs single turbo header

 

WELL... I think that you've been way off with the T88 since you started saying that, but I kind of would like to see what it will do.

As I've said a few times, I'm building a similar 305 project with better heads, better intake, probably a bigger cam (right now I can't remember what you were going with), and I've been planning a much smaller turbo from day one. Of course I kind of collect them when I find a good deal on something that I think I might use or just think is a cool turbo, so I just plan on using something out of my basement. My top choice out of what I have right now is a Holset HX52 (weird, cool hybrid used in large OTR Volvos, cold side the size of the biggest HX55, just under 70mm inducer with a tiny hot side, 16cm^2), it seems like it was built for making stupid power out of a smallish combination on the street (a much more efficient design then the old schoon Txx turbos). Second place is a tie between a bigger, GT4202 (off a detroit diesel, bigish for what I want for this setup, the T6 frame would be a bear to package, but the compressor cover is only slightly larger then the HX52) and a smaller HX40 (I have a few different ones to choose from, this would be my absolute choice for a fun street car but a bit on the small side for ultimate performance, 9's would be way on its ragged edge, but it would probably make a nice turbo for a rear mount f-body setup).

If I was going to to out and buy something... donno, it would be up to what I found a good deal on. I'd be looking for a modern design in the 60-70mm range, and I'll be honest, I don't see the point in spending $600 on a knockoff of a generation or 2 old turbo if I've picked up most of the ones that I own either new, rebuilt or very low mile for around $200. There are tons of choices of GT, TV, HX, S400... out there that can be had for >$400, but you have to do some looking to find them with smaller hot sides that would be appropriate.

People on the turbo forums seem to have OK luck with the knock off GT45's, but for that money I keep hearing about people getting some of the smaller BW/bullseye S400 turbos from the vendors which would probably be my choice even though packaging would be a pain