I think you're thinking of Ash. I could be wrong though. If that's the case he was using alky to do it.

 

yeah ash is one of them but i think one of his buddies was using them as well , and there was somone else that i cant think of atm

ill have to go look threw the builds board there was another recent build using 882's

 

thats ash on methanol

 

those ports don't look "just brushed over," and running on methanol makes a big difference...

 

its hard to tell the port work from those pics since u can only see that lil bit of the entrance

but hell if they can hold up to 1000hp they be dam fine for a lower hp street car

 

methanol will make more power with less air flow...

 

Not only that but because it runs cooler cracking the heads is probably a hell of a lot less likely.

 

I picked up a set of TPI fuel lines, I even got the the intank assembly with it, although I'd rather run the other fuel pump as opposed to a walbro. We'll see. In the mean time, I cut the lines so that they extend from the engine bay to about just under the drivers seat. From there, I'll flare the ends with the right fittings, then figure out what I'm going to do in terms of the fuel pump. The stock lines gotta go though either way, they're in really bad shape. Here is the length of the lines after I cut them, and them just after being installing....

 

Going to start working on the Intercooler. I just pulled the nose clip off, but first I need to take care of a problem. The lower support for the radiator is rusted pretty badly, so with sawzall in hand, I cut a new piece off of a donor. I won't need all of what I cut from the donor, but I took that much because you never know until it's out in the open. So far, it looks like just the lower support for the radiator needs to be welded in. I'll take care of that first, then mount the Intercooler....

 

heh, wire brush and some por 15 or even a phosphoric acid rust treatment and some rustolium will be faster and lighter...

 

you could always cut the lower radiator support off and make your own support and relocated the radiator while you're at it. thats what i did

 

Scratch the Holley EFI control, as I'm going to keep this build budget oriented, and going with the Holley unit will take away from the whole purpose of this build. Gonna use a 7730 w/boost control....

I was looking at it the other day, and I cut off the front lip on the lower radiator support using a sawzall because that was where the damage was essentially done. The rest is honestly fine, just needs sanding and paint. I didn't weld the new piece in yet, so maybe I might just salvage the stock one. Mind you, it doesn't have the bolt thread for the nose support anymore, but the Intercooler is in the way anyway. I'll save the new piece when I put the car back to stock....

Do you have any pics....?

 

I'm 2hrs away from my computer but if you look on my build thread you can see how I relocated it

 

Okay, I see what you did. When you said relocate, I thought you meant completely out of the way, because I was originally thinking of running the turbo in that area, and moving the radiator somewhere else. Your build came out great....

 

You might want to spend some time doing the math there... the Holley can be had relatively cheaply and you're ready to go, where yea, picking up the 7730 and the basics can be dirt cheap, but once you start collecting parts and goodies it gets expensive. I'd bet that I have more in programming, chip burning... than just buying an aftermarket setup.

Secondly, I don't know how patient you are with it... IRL I'm a computer guy who should be pretty comfortable with the whole GM Ecm thing... and I have to admit I'm not. I feel that its unnecessary difficult to get a fairly standard setup working, so I haven't even gotten to some of the more involved stuff. I've had problems getting a lot of standard stuff running the $58 (well, at least running well). Really, with boost the only _real_ success I've had was the setup I was told that would be difficult to make work (running some Holden 808 code in a stock '165, converting it to 2 bar map from maf, from one of my 87 cars, the 808 is a similar ecm to the 165 but used a 1 bar map and I just scaled the table to work with the broader range... that ran well but I lost the TC control).

I honestly decided that this time around I'm giving up and I've built a MS... I'm hoping the better programming interface will make up for the effort put into building it, and the fact is that it cost _much_ less (like many times less) then I ultimately have in gm ecm stuff, and although not as simple to get running as some of the aftermarket setups that I've tried, it does appear that it will be significantly easier to use then a gm ecm.

The fact is that I spend enough time with computers every day at work, I'd rather have this just work on the car...

 

rob man uve seen me tune my ms system, hell it took me and u what an hour to dial in a base tune on my camaro when we first installed it

id just go with an ms unit 311$ for a complete setup u cant go wrong

 

You guys have no faith in me lol. There is a reason why I chose to go with the '730, and maybe even the '749 depending on which one I come across first. Eric Marshall (Turbo Tweak) and Bob Bailey are working on integrating Gen-2 into his Turbo Buick chips, as well as a few other features for it (adjustable WOT fuel and timing, open loop idle, etc.), and it looks to be very promising. We'll see though, as nothing is ever written in stone....

 

my iroc should have a 730 in it right? if so u can have it, unfortunatly the harness was hacked but it apears they only cut the wires for the tps and iac and colant temp sensor. if so its deffinatly repairable if u want it

 

No, 89's came with Mass Air Flow, ECM '7165.

Edit: With those all you have to do to run boost is get the right size injectors, rescale the MAF table, adjust pulse width, then get a Granatelli adjustable MAF sensor for WOT adjustment....

 

What are the extra chips on the MEMCAL module for? There is no reason to need it. I have been running the 730 ECM with a modified AUJP code that does boost since year 2006. I think the AUJP based code is the best there is for the MAP ECMs.
Good choice ditching the Holley EFI. Over-priced, over-advertised junk that ain't as great as it is made out to be. Just look at how long it took Marty to get his Holley system tuned on a Dyno. That would have cost between about 1 to 2 grand in the real world just for the dyno time, never mind the "tuner" cost.

If you already have the tuning equipment I would take a look at the $59 code with a 730 ECM. If you can't find an AUJP chip which are expensive now, then I would use a V6 chip and add the jumper wire. Just try to find one with a bore size chose to the 305ci you have.

Is this thing getting a TH350 or a TH400?

 

Yes and no. To do any ECM stuff you need a laptop PC so that cost is univeral. For the GM stuff you need an ALDL cable ($60), a willem programmer ($50), USB converters ($20), MEMCAL adapter ($50). Call it $200 tops. With this you can tune MANY cars and that is why I choose this route.

Megasquirt is great.....no denying that. If you want to do only one car, or learn the minimum of EFI then it is the way to go. It offers an upgrade path and the source code is available to do anything you want.

For me, a GM ECM would be the best bet. For most, the Megasquirt is the best bet. If I were in his shoes it would get an MS-II unless there is something that is out now for better cost vs performance.

 

I forwarded this question over to Bob directly, being as that is Eric's ECM in the picture above. One thing that was mentioned, aside from the features mentioned above, is that they are working on Scanmaster capability for the 749/730 ECM's as well, and I know A LOT of people on this board, as well as the Typhoon/Syclone boards, will be extremely happy knowing that. I'm really looking forward to it. Once the stock tranny goes, I have another 700R4 that will go in, then finally a Turbo-400 when that one goes....

 

This is from Eric (TurboTweak.com)....

"The memcal has the capability to switch to a different program on the fly. In order to do this safely, it needs to switch synchronously, so it doesn't happen in the middle of program execution. This required some extra circuitry. I know there have been switchable devices in the past that seem to work ok without this extra stuff, but since I want this to be switchable at WOT if necessary, I wanted to be extra safe. Also instead of using a bunch of resistors, that was replaced with a resistor network chip. You can connect a switched 12v source to it to switch to the different programs. There is also an optoisolator chip on there to help isolate from external surges (from the 12v switched wiring). My program will only have room for 2 bins since it's double the stock size. So someone could connect their alky kit to it, and have it switch from a non-alky program to an alky program"....

 

Interesting topic in itself. Synchronous is interesting because it doesn't say relative to what. In order to truly switch synchronous it must be relative to "reset" because the system already has fuel, spark, and other parameters loaded into memory from the currently executing program. But doing that at WOT has problems in itself.
If switching synchronous is just relative to a bus cycle then that only avoids bus corruption which would be bad design behavior and could cause bad system behavior. The so called emulators by Xtronics and Moates were known for trying to switch sync but would crash because there wasn't enough margin. Anyway, off topic here...........and the point is this -> only switch banks or cals or programs with the engine off and key on. I don't trust any of the switchers out there with the engine on.

Back on topic. I would either use an MS-II or a 730 ECM with the $59 code and a programmer (not emulator). Currently available emulators are too unreliable and adding boost to the mix you can destroy the engine before you know it. I am not saying that tweak thing is bad, it just seems like it added missing features to the old GN ECM. The 730 ECM is a much different ECM.

What is scanmaster? What is gained by using it on a 730 ECM?

 

I will be surprised if the two 700R4s make it to the end of the street. My stock 700R4 with BW clutches, corvette servo, new drum, etc only lasted a little over 10K miles with a bone stock 130K mile 305 TPI at 12PSI which was babied most of the time. Turbos were usually only in use pulling hills and a little bit of street fun, and a couple of times at the track.
It wiped out the 2-4 band as in stripped down to the rivets and the 3-4 clutches all heat blued. That is from a stock 305 TPI shifted at 4600 RPM max. very rarely. Do you really think that a stock or even a top-end build is going to handle the 25+ PSI to hit the 9s? Even if you built it yourself you are looking at 2K for a "kit" and converter.
I would just put the TH400 in it and a set of sub 3.23 gears.

 

Eric has an account here and still visits this site (Eric Marshall), so I'm going to hold off on commenting on what he and Bob Bailey are doing. I gave him the link to this thread, so hopefully he will chime in soon to explain for you. He recently got his hands on a GMC Syclone though, and is now getting involved with the tuning characteristics of the '749. The scanmaster is a scantool device created by Bob Bailey, and allows you to see what the ECM see's, and what it is doing. Up until this point, the only 3rd Gen's to have such a feature were the TTA's, but Eric and Bob are now incorporating them into the '749/'730's....

"I get quite a few questions on this, so a little info on what the "fast update" code patch is, for those that don't know...

The Scanmaster is a great scantool device made for our cars that helps anyone tune and troubleshoot their cars without requiring a laptop. It displays the information that the ECM transmits through the ALDL plug under the radio. The info in the ALDL datastream is dictated by the chip. As such, the datastream can be modified with other information, as long as the scantool is able to interpret the new data.

Bob Bailey, the creator of the Scanmaster, has written new datastreams that are compatible with the Scanmaster that add some data (such as injector pulsewidth and spark timing), but more importantly, they increase the rate at which the O2 readings and knock retard are refreshed. This is good, since we are less likely to miss a low O2 reading or a high knock retard reading in between updates. One part of the datastream that was removed to make room for the new info was the malfunction code readout, however the codes can still be read by using the "blinking SES" method. Also, if you have the older Scanmaster 2.0, you will lose the IAC reading. Scanmaster 2.1 keeps the IAC reading.

Realize that if the chip has been programmed with the fast update datastream, other scantools that use the ALDL plug will no longer be compatible. One exception is Turbolink which is capable of reading the special datastream.

The fast update patch for the Scanmaster 2.1 speeds up the update rate of O2 and knock retard (3 times faster), adds injector pulsewidth and spark timing, and removes the malfunction code readout from the datastream. I would not use the fast update with the Scanmaster 2.0, since you'll lose the IAC reading, which is pretty important"....

- Eric Marshall

 

A couple comments:

Memory chips (or any chip on the CPU bus) are synchronous to the E clock and the chip selects. "Synchronous" to anything else (including reset) would be "asynchronous".

This is only true if the software sets in the banks are unrelated. If the software sets are designed to be bank-switched, then there is no issue.
If the only differences between the banks are calibrations, and the checksum is correctly handled, then there are no issues.

This is not an emulator, and I can't speak to their techniques. There are plenty of issues relative to that kind of hardware.


A scantool that is designed to be permanently installed in the vehicle. Reasonable popular in the Turbo Buick community.

Bob
(back under my rock)

 

Junk, I was reading about your build from awhile back but you pulled all of your pictures though. Do you have any video's hosted anywhere of your progress....?

 

Hey, I didn't know you had an account....!!!!

 

Have you considered the older Holley 950 commander ecu? You could probably find a used unit fairly cheap. It can do pretty much everything the new Holley EFI can, with the exception of the Learn function. junkclr, what tuning problems did Marty have with his Holley? Even without the self-tuning, I was able to tune my fuel table after a few datalogs of WOT on the street.

 

I honestly did, but what Bob and Eric are doing is long overdue for our cars. I know a lot of guys in MAGNA, which is a turbo buick community here in the North East, and almost all of them return from FAST setups back to the stock ECM w/turbo tweak chip because it is just so easy, and Eric provides full adjustability. Don't get me wrong, the aftermarket setups are great, but to be able to run the stock harness without butchering it up and having it do pretty much everything that the setups like the Megasquirt and Big Stuff 3 can, while keeping e-fan and TCC control, is very very appealing. IMO, standalone and aftermarket ECM's are excellent for engines that were converted over to fuel injection....

 

The mods said that my signature was bad so I pulled the pics. I checked into the laws about text and it seemed like I was covered. All it was was the forums copyright text in my sig with me copyrighting what I wrote. Fair is fair but they didn't like it. It was OK because law covers me anyway. Never the less, I pulled the pics. Most forums like this started out from a Mom & Pop build and then get bought out down the line and the buyer feels they bought the forum information. They don't seem bad here, but some sites won't allow linking to there info. They are all about the dough.

Honestly, my builds are nothing great and on the low side of the turbo power spectrum. The 305 TPI is a $500 JY engine I installed in the 5K pound truck back in year 2000. It has lasted this long so I can't complain. I would love to build something like you are doing (I think we all would), but as you found out....it starts out quick and simple and before you know it consumes a lot of time. I think it is great that you are sticking with it and changing paths as you go to better achieve your goal.

I can send you some pics if you want. It just isn't a thirdgen though. I probably have 200 pics of the turbo install and posi install. I have a bunch of 4L60E rebuild pics from over the winter. I wanted to learn how to build the 4L60E so that if I wipe out parts it is no big deal to drop it and rebuild it.

 

Post count = 1 ..... (ok, its 2 now )

Been a lurker for a little while, never had much to say.

Bob

 

I don't think he ever had tuning problems. It seemed to take as long as tuning a stock GM ECM. He also had a lot of dyno time to tune. It was dubbed a cheap JY build, but look at what all that dyno time would have cost.
Yes, I tune mostly on the street which is border-line fine for my sub 450 HP builds. Try tuning something like he is building with 600-700 HP on the street for high KPA (not even WOT) and you might end up without a license pretty quick. I would do a $100 test & tune day at the track to do the WOT stuff for something like that.

 

Thank you for clearing that up. You are using synchronous in the classic sense and referring to the system clock. Your design is bus synchronous. You are referring to reset in a hardware sense which is async to the clock. That is correct, but now think in terms of the system and not just the hardware. The system is sync and if you just switch the CAL and possibly the code then you can have system problems even when the switch is bus sync.

Suppose I am cruising with BIN 1 and the EGR is ON. I have BIN2 loaded that never turns the EGR on (high thresholds) and never turns the EGR off. Once I switch to BIN 2 it expects the EGR to be off and since it is already on then it never switches off. Problems arise during tuning especially near idle. Eventually the engine is shut off and restarted. Now it behaves completely different because the EGR is off and the tune is way off again. So, yes there are issues even with a hardware sync design.

That is just one example of being system synch. and if the reset signal was asserted when BIN2 was loaded then this problem would have never have happened. Overall, there is hardware sync, software sync, and system sync. In your case you are referring to hardware signals and the main clock.

 

Exactly. This is what my EGR example is about. You and I can read through a disassembled bin to look for this stuff. The end user can't and doesn't even know what we are talking about. We both recognize the problem, but they don't so how can they avoid it?

Pseudo code example:
line 1: keep EGR set to what it was
line 2: if EGR < threshold_low, then turn off EGR
line 3: if EGR > threshold_high, then turn on EGR

switching bins with different thresholds will cause problems with this code! The end user pulls their hair out trying to tune and thinks it is something they are doing wrong, can't tune, and give up, and say GM ECMs are hard to tune.

 

I think you are exagerating the issue. If the calibration in the second bank in your example is set up so that the EGR can get stuck on, then the calibration is wrong. This is not an error in design, but an error in calibration.

We will have to agree that tuning for "live bank switching" is not for beginners and leave it at that.

Bob
(back under my rock, again)

 

Even for advanced users, "live bank switching" should be only done with key-on,engine-off if you don't know how the code is written.
Better safe than sorry when tuning boost. I think we both agree on that.

 

These memcals can be switched with the key off also.

But, we agree, unless the code is intended for hot-switching, and the calibrations are designed with this in mind, then switching with the engine off is a safe strategy.

That said, these memcals were designed for TurboTweak to incorporate their SyTy software, which is specifically designed and calibrated to be hot-switchable (at WOT if you want).

Bob

 

I know I speak for everyone who is reading this when I say that the above was extremely humbling. I was only able to came across one video on youtube that got deep into the scanmaster's ability, but I'll tell ya, these Buick guys were so spoiled lol. To be able to know what the ECM is seeing on the fly like that without the ECM freaking lying on the passenger floor with various hookups is just awesome. As soon as its released for the '749 I'm immediately getting one for the '90 GTA....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JWudsRG2QI

 

Has anyone done this successfully with boost? Which mask? to be honest, I last looked at this years ago, but there was enough contradictory information out there about the Maf tables and every time I asked I got answers that basically said that every way was wrong, never got it running as well as I wanted and finally gave up...

at about $100 less than a MS, and you're forgetting about a scan tool, multiple memcals, chips or emulator, other bits and peices... I know that I've spent enough on the stuff that I could do at least 2 MS's.

Once you blow it up once it's pretty much a time bomb unless you replace not only the normal rebuild parts but many of the hard parts that most builds don't do. That said, and I've already said pretty much the same, I don't see one living up to any real power. I can conceive how to build one that would hold real power, but it seems like no one really does for some reason, at least not for big $$$. I would love to use one in my build, I like the tranny for street use and then tend to work well for some applications, but I'm not going to waste my time or money unless I found someone that I really thought would stand behind their work knowing the kind of use I plan on putting it to.

 

Both the MS and GM ECM need a scan tool (aka PC). I already included the ALDL cable in the estimate for the GM. Almost any MEMCAL will do and may just need a jumper wire for V8 applications. All the emulators I have seen are junk and not worth buying unless you are using it on the testbench sitting on the floor without any harm when it f's-up......which they all do. If only doing two vehicles then the MS is the better route.


The 700R4, 4L60E, and 4L80E are flawed by design when used in turbo applications. All rely on TPS for changing line pressure. The LEs can have a modulator installed to help, but I see it as a hack personally. With the TPS controlling pressure you end up with low line pressure at low TPS when the turbo can be making good boost which just smokes the band and clutches. I can guarantee that is what happened to my 2-4 band and 3-4 clutches.

I don't know what you consider blowing one up but I just lost all the 2-4 liner down to the rivets and burned the 3-4 clutch pack. It required a new reverse drum, clutches, band, etc. All the other hard parts were fine.

As for the 4L60E and 700R4 not holding real power I would agree to that. You can spend about 2K doing it yourself to get one to hold for a while. Not forever, but for a while. Probuilt and others have some good kits with 8 or 9 clutches, servos, tranny builder tricks, etc. Again, it won't hold forever like a TH400 or 4L80E would, but it is a lot lighter if that matters. I do see the smaller trans holding 600 HP for a while when built right, but again TPS and low line pressure is a problem. NA engines don't suffer from this because to make HP they are WOT. In my case I would do a lot of 1/4 to 1/2 throttle driving that would make 10+ PSI in 3rd and 4th and it would hammer the 3-4 clutch and 2-4 band with high torque and low line pressure. I went to the 4L60E because it was a drop in replacement for the 700R4 and I am changing the code to do line pressure vs MAP and TPS. Something I couldn't do with the 700R4. I also pick up any 4L80E for $100 if I come across them.....just in case.

Overall, if he sticks with the 700R4 I would be careful at low TPS and boost. The nice thing about turbo cars is that they can handle high ratio rear end gears so running a 3 spd trans works out decent. The stock bottom end 305 doesn't want to be a revver so a TH400 would work great here.

 

tci constant presure valve body will fix this issue, but it creates a few other issues like harsh part throttle shifts and abrupt downshifts which can be a lil dangerous when its raining

 

I hadn't seen that vid, thanks

The display on the scanmaster looks washed out due to the camcorder. In real life the display is very crisp.

For the 749, we are going to use the "Scanmaster 3" hardware, there are a few more features in it.

Hopefully real soon...

Bob

 

What free scan tool software are you using? Last i checked there was one or 2 but nothing really good. MS programming software is also a fairly effective scan tool for it and has a nice "dashboard"

I've smoked them just as bad in NA and n2o applications.

I'm not sure that TPS is a real problem, since yes, you can close the throttle and still have boost before the throttle but not so much after it. The amount of power being made will still mostly track the throttle position. Secondly, the TV cable really only affects line pressure at lower settings. Typically anything more than half throttle or sooner will already be at full line pressure, and most shift kits limit the total line pressure but speed up where you get it and then increase the area of the pistons that it acts on, so even if you could potentially "trick" the transmission into a low line pressure when you're making serious power any decent shift kit should make it difficult if not impossible to do.

How is the stock th400 setup better with it's modulator valve?

typically the 2-4 band is the weak link (my formula 350 is sitting in the driveway with exactly this problem, and I believe that is the way most go), and putting a wider one tends to make the situation worse, it just puts more heat into the shell and warps it faster, at that point it toasts the band and that's it. I've seen quite a few "builders" that believe replacing the band is all that's needed, but once the surface that it applies against sees some heat from it slipping it's toast also, and it will never work correctly again.

I don't believe that the 3-4 clutch pack is as common a problem, and that can usually be dealt with well by a decent shift kit

last time I talked to probuilt he basically told me not to waste my time, if I want something that I won't break I want something else.

I believe that at half throttle you should be at full line pressure with most setups, I have a hard time believing that you were building significant torque at 1/4 throttle, and if you are then you could still build the valve body to increase line pressure by then. For that matter, I don't see any serious toy having a converter much tighter than 2500-3500rpm stall, just set it up to run full line pressure at any significant throttle opening and let the converter absorb the harder shifts when you're not pushing it.

I have one, the size is not the problem, it's the 100lbs more than a 700...

 

It was actually Bob Bailey (Turbo Bob) that explained to me how it would be accomplished using the '7165 a few months back, and TequilaBoy seemed to be very successful afterward. This is what was explained to me by Bob...;

"LV8 is better than MAP for controlling spark and fuel, as it represents the air that actually made it into the cylinder. Its true 'load'. The issue when converting to a boosted application is to keep it from maxing too early. Since it is derived from MAF, the MAF measurement limit is the true issue. Once the MAF maxes, then LV8 will undercalculate as RPM rises....

So, what you want is a MAF that doesn't hit its limit until you are at full boost and 75% of your redline. Then scale LV8 accordingly so that your spark table can adjust for load properly. Then set your PE thresholds to work from TPS or LV8. Beyond that, you could play with PE AFR/LV8 so that you are only moderately rich at lower boost...."

.... with the follow up by TequilaBoy;

"As a follow up to the earlier discussion, for a test, I expanded the LV8 scaling to accomodate 150% load (0-384 range) and also set the PE AFR target to use of LV8 instead of rpm. It is working fine. LV8 is going above 255 by 3,000 rpm with approx. 2 psi boost. LV8 continues to climb into the mid 300s as boost and rpm increase. Target AFR above 360 load was set to 11.8. In today's 90 F ambient air, the MAF flow peaked at 400 gm/sec at 6,000 rpm with 330 indicated for load and 106 F for air charge temperature at 9 psi after intercooling. At 330 load, target AFR was running at 11.85. Load based AFR appears to work very well and would be well suited for a turbo application for the reasons already discussed. I also made a WOT pull in 4th gear from about 1,000 rpm to 2,600 rpm or so, roughly 0-1 psi. LV8 hovered around 200 for the entire range of rpm with an AFR target at a conservative 12.51"....

 

Paulie (pacecarta) from the Buick boards knows how long I have been waiting for one, as he see's the frustration in my face whenever I bring the GTA over to his garage and I have to borrow that prehistroic handheld of his just to periodically check BLM's. A lot of the newbies on this board don't really understand just how lucky they are because we have been waiting a long time for this. I simply cannot wait to get it hooked up and a new thread started that will embellish on it. Everytime I'm in his Grand National it becomes like second nature, you always find yourself looking at it, and thanks to him I don't even look at BLM anymore, just the O2's lol....

 

I use TP4.0 only. I tried TP5.0 but the datalogging with stacked charts and auto-scaling drove me nuts. I like one curve per graph. I don't use the dashboard feature. I am not a fan of loggers that show what-is-going-on-right-now. Anything that is dashboard like shows old data to me and forces me to pay attention and remember what just happened. I am too busy listening and thinking about how the engine is running that I rely on the computer to record the data. I use data curves and what for trends while driving which can only be see with history. Dashboards don't have history and I don't care to remember what just happened for 4 different parameters.


I never put a gauge on the 700R4 line pressure so I really don't know what the actual TPS vs line pressure is. I had the TVS cable adjust as per GM specs. Just my gut feeling says that a 700R4 at half throttle and 450+ ft/lbs of torque isn't a good thing. I guess I will find out with the 4L60E in terms of it lasting.

line pressure vs. MAP

If the 2-4 band slips or wears then you need a new reverse drum, not a machined drum, a new one or one that looks exactly and measures like new. I don't believe in the wide bands either. I like the BW Hi-E bands. I never understood why some trans rebuilders are so cheap. It cost peanuts to rebuild a trans when compared to what they put in their pocket. A new drum is like $80 which is cheap.


Yes, the key word there is break. The 4L60E will hold for a while, but will break or need more frequent refreshes. A stronger trans wouldn't require the maintenance. That is why I recommended the TH400 for this StreetLethal's build.

With a couple of 40mm T3 compressors, .48 A/R turbines it is pretty easy to be cruising along down the highway in 4th making 10 PSI at 2600 RPM or about 400 ft/lb of torque.
I am not a fan of full line pressure all the time. That is why I went with the 4L60E so I could adjust it just like I do fuel & spark to get it right where it needs to be. Not that non E-trans are bad, I just figured it is time to move on like when I first decided to use EFI.


I have a couple sitting on the floor just in case, but also because I want to learn how to build them. Yes, they are too heavy and too big and that is why I put the 4L60E in place of the 700R4 to begin with. Once I build something real with the S400 88mm T6 then I will just go with the 4L80E. I think StreetLethal's build is in the same boat. Just go with the TH400 and skip breaking the two 700R4s he has.

 

good luck happy hunting ill make sure you get a solo pass when you run it so your blown engine does put any other cars in danger

 

Hopefully I'll make it down there soon, cuz e-town will more than likely be the first stop to get a baseline with the '84 first. Either way we'll definitely meet up with you over by Atco one weekend....