Throttle Body is on, and initially I am going run the 48mm stocker, then a 52mm right after to see how big of a difference flow is actually being effected. Now, it is said that a stock 48mm throttle body (w/airfoil) flows at 820-cfm @ 28" of water. From the turbo's outlet, I will be running 3" diameter charge tubing, and 3" pipe with an applied 20-psig is said to provide 600-scfm (standard cubic feet per minute), and I just don't see how the stock throttle body will be any restriction whatsoever. I'll be running both throttle bodies, so we will know for sure though in the end....

 

Heh, I took one of the stockers, took it apart, dropped it on the mill with a boring bar and cut it to 52mm, because I could. I posted a pic of it bolted to the LT1 intake and heads in another thread...

 

hey rob whats the chance u have an extra pigtial for the tps and iac ?

i have the wrong pitials for the year tpi system i have and no junkyards around here have any tpi cars


friggen car is starting to nickle and dime me too, dam looks like ups just drove by and threw the box the tpi stuff was in off the truck as they drove by and they broke the dam water neck

friggen figures that a tpi water neck would be 36 bucks instead of a regular old one for a sbc u can buy for 10 bucks new

 

You can use TBI pigtails if they are easier to come by.

 

thanks i didnt now that ill hae to call around and see if they have anything

 

Great build! I have finally caught up(at least the last 4 pages) and have a few questions.

-Still going with the GM ECU?

-What fuel pump and injectors? I did see where you modified the FPR to an adjustible unit. Any supplemental fueling or with enough pump do you think that will provide you with all the fuel you need?

I have a build thread going as well and did some pretty extensive modifications to my lines, A1000, and fuel rails(including removing the stock FPR) to make sure that we have enough fuel to feed the motor. Many pictures are in that thread, too

I'll be following you from this point!

 

Here Dave.....

TPI waterneck for eight bucks....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-92...Q5fAccessories

TPI TPS Pigtail for eleven dollars....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-92...Q5fAccessories

TPI IAC Pigtail for eleven dollars....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TPI-T...Q5fAccessories

 

I still want to go with the 7730 w/Turbo Tweak chip and scanmaster, but still no updates as of yet from Turbo Tweak. Then I thought about dropping proms altogether and running the flash 7730 EBL P4 w/scanmaster, as RBob already confirmed that Bob Bailey's scanmaster would essentially work with EBL. The MS v3.57 is also another option, although I would prefer e-fan and TCC control already being in there without having to open up the ECM and soldering for it myself. I have the A1000, but since I need to tear into the stock intank assembly anyway to remove the original L69 electric fuel pump, I wanted to assemble a dual intank pump setup running two walbro's. Had that stock electric pump not been in the tank then I could have avoided cutting an access panel, and just gone with the A1000 instead. The 60-lb injectors should cover me for up to 20 plus pounds of boost....

 

Dave, I have an LT1 throttle body w/sensors and pigtails, I also found an extra waterneck lying around in the garage, let me know if you need them....

 

I picked up a fresh MSD HEI kit, as it was only seven dollars more than a stock replacement that I was planning on getting over at advanced auto. The kit comes with two rotor bushings, one for stock applications, and the other a low resistance bushing which allows the secondary voltage to be transferred from the cap to the rotor w/out excessive heat build up. I'm of course using the low resistance one because I am not stock, plus I'm running the Flamethrower coil with the setup. I always like to use dielectric grease on both sides of the insulator pad underneath the coil, but that is of course optional. I'm eventually going to get MSD plugs and wires, but now I'm kicking myself because I want to paint the injectors red lol....

 

How much did that ignition setup there cost you?

 

.... wasn't too bad, the MSD 6AL Box is still pending though.

MSD Cap & Rotor Kit - $32.00
Flamethrower Coil - $40.00

 

Working on some of the sensors now, as all of the major fuel injection sensors are already covered; TPS, IAC, MAP (3-Bar), CTS, IAT, ESC, KS etc, but the car was of course missing that "infamous" one wire CTS for the gauge, and nobody seemed to freaking carry it. Advanced auto came through again though, and for those who need a part number, you'll find it below. I didn't want any sensors near the cylinder heads, and normally that temp sender is located between cylinders one and three. I plugged that thread in the head, and am relocating it in the front of the lower manifold, right above the CTS for the ECM. Just need to get a brass adapter fitting from Home Depot first.....

Coolant Temp Sender: BWD Z-Series WT359Z

 

Is the RTV supplemental or did you say hell with buying new gaskets?

 

Supplemental, the gaskets are sandwiched between a generous amount of RTV on both sides....

 

Done....

 

AC delete box is on, wrapping up and trimming down the wiring for it as I write this. The damn car didn't come with the power line for the blower motor though that goes down to the starter, as usually it is wired into the harness coming from the fuse panel on the drivers side, then down to the starter w/fusible link. I'm just going to run the correct gauge size wire and crimp my own terminal onto it and run it straight to the battery with an inline fuse. Don't worry Dave, I spoke w/Joe over at Red & Black, he has a whole fleet of those vans w/out AC, and he wants $20 bucks a box.

 

I guess I have been putting it off and stalling for long enough now lol, time to work on the fuel delivery. Here is the intank TPI setup I am working with. Second picture shows the four lines from left to right being; fuel feed, fuel return, vapor canister, and fuel vent. Notice how GM goes out of their way to use the right fuel fittings for the return line in the engine bay for show, but back by the pump the return line only gets a "clamp". Anyways, gonna cut all four lines about six to seven inches away from the center o-ring, then I will flare the ends of the feed and return, then keep the other two as vents (w/check valves, of course). From there, I will be running braided line for the feed and return all the way to the TPI lines that I installed earlier on (which end just underneath the drivers seat under the floor pan)....

 

Still wrapping up the fuel lines, should be done in a little bit. Today I was working on some of the other little things, and my buddy Paul hooked me up with the throttle and tranny cables, so they're on and ready to go. The engine should be running very soon, and I really want to get a baseline before the turbo goes on, so it will be over at e-town the same week it's running. We're actually headed there tonight if it doesn't rain, so maybe some of you local guys wanna join in the import bashing fun lol....

 

rob do not use the stock iat thats in the plenum its a closed element type and it reacts way to slow to air temp changes, not to mention being mounted in the plenum it head soaks, get ursef and open element iat and moount it inthe charge pipe after the intercooler

 

My stock IAT was actually removed from the bottom of the plenum awhile ago, and the plenum was plugged. That very same IAT is actually being used as my CTS on the front of my lower manifold because they are the same sensors. I have another IAT that I picked up from the turbo buick guys that I am going to use but that's getting installed later on when I do the charge pipes and ECM though....

 

so what are you painting over on the injector bodies?

 

lmao, you caught that ehh? I got teflon sealant all over the tops of the injectors when I was sizing the injector harness, so I just blotted it out w/some black cuz I forgot to clean them before I took the picture lol. The injectors are actually coming out again anyway because I'm going to hit them with red to match the HEI cap, and MSD wires I'm ordering.

 

heh, if you didn't make such a mess of it to start with it would have been easier...

 

we runnin' 9s yet?


motor looks good!

 

Haha, if I started with a TPI car that didn't need so much work I would honestly have some sort of time slip for you guys, but this car needed/needs so much work, and I'm trying to get as much done as I possibly can w/limited time. Went to the track the other night though, and my buddy Paul ran the following in his '86 Grand National, with less cubes, smaller turbo, less cam, smaller valves, weighing 3500-lbs w/out driver...;

1.592
4.380
6.747
103.19
8.814
10.582
127.07

Here is an older video of his GN (first and last runs), the engine has OVER 600 passes with the factory cast assembly, not one forged part inside of that short block. He cracked a piston last year, pulled it out right after, then replaced it with another stock piston and took it right back to the track. Nines shouldn't be a problem for me if the drive-train can hold it together. I'm more worried about the tranny handling the boost more than anything else....

http://www.streetfire.net/video/a-li...atco_86367.htm

 

ya i think it could do it engine-wise... that one guy was running low 9's with the "grenade" or whatever it was called. cast piston motor with a pair of gn turbo's i believe. really wish i could do a turbo setup on my car but its gonna have to wait.

 

Wait til it blows then do a turbo motor...but that LT1 doesnt seem to want to let go huh?

 

Just a small update. Still waiting on my braided fuel line, fuel pump, as well as two more 5/16 saginaw fitting adapters from Earls Plumbing. The intank assembly has been trimmed down, and the feed line has been o-ring flared with the correct 3/8's saginaw fitting. The Earl's adapter will allow me to run -6AN fuel line to the other adapter on the feed line that extends to underneath the drivers seat, and I went with 8-feet braided line each way, although I doubt I'll need that much. Once I get my other 5/16 fittings I will o-ring flare the return lines as well. The vapor canister line is now being used as a vent, and the single intank pump (when it gets here) is good for 1000 horsepower, not that the engine will see that much of course. I also grabbed a set of TPI rubber lines for up front....

 

rob ur slacking man i just started my build and in a week it should be running on the turbo
:P

lol just giving ya grief anyways looking good ,now stop posting and get back to work :P

 

What fuel PSI and GPH did you use for the fuel pump calculation? I don't see any intank pump supporting (43+27=70 PSI) and the GPH you need for 9 sec ETs.

I almost keeled over when I looked at the price of the saginaw fitting flare tool years ago.

 

im thinking he went with the same fuel pump setup i did
dual areomotive or datshwerks 340lph intank pumps

be aware if u did though the stock return line has a hard time keeping up with the flow at part throttle idle even with a single pump

u deffinatly need to enlarge the return line.

my plan is to use the factory feed as my return and run a new -8 feed line

 

You are using duals. He post he is using a single.
I agree about the stock return line not being enough. Maybe play with the voltage too?

 

Deatschwerks DW301....

http://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-pump-tech/

I'm going to see where it stands after the installation first, and if it demands a larger feed and return line then I'll switch to larger full braided lines for both. The flare tool kit is unreal though, pricey yes, but wow talk about flaring with ease. Bingo about the voltage by the way....

Freaking Jegs, I ordered this stuff from them well over a week ago already, and I'm still waiting on the other 5/16 fittings and braided fuel line to get here. Got a new mini starter for the engine and she cranks faster than ever, but no ECM yet to control fuel and spark. The turbo, intercooler, charge pipes, silicone couplings, t-clamps, turbo headers, turbo is all waiting to go on. The only thing I'm waiting for is to run the engine naturally aspirated first to make sure it's good to go, then everything goes on all at once. Just waiting on the ECM. No more T76 by the way, I got a T88 to replace it. Pictures of the madness will be up soon.....

 

t88 on a 305 ???????? lol how about i just trade u my t6 t76 for that t88 as i ws going to send my turbo out to have it fitted with an 88mm wheel lol

then again ur 305 would have a hard time spinning up my t76

 

Now you're talkin. We need some turbine specs........are you going to hit it with a 150 shot to spool or does it have a small turbine?

 

T88? This is getting better by the minute. Next thing you know we'll be seeing a secondary engine with H-beams and forged slugs coming down the line or something crazy. I bet that running low 9s or 8s on a 305 would get some people really uppity.

 

if you pull low low 10's or any 9's out of this 305, i bet alot of people will be seeing pigs fly , and the underdog will be making a comeback

 

Do it with the equipment that you want....
I wanna see this thing succeed
I say kill it!!!
Show them all who's BOSS!!!

Don't give up... there's lots of guys here behind you!
Can't wait to see the results!!

 

lmao whats worse seeing a 305 run 9/10's or watching a 2.8 v6 camaro turning 11/12's

 

umm im gonna answer that with yes

 

can any of you guys give me more info on a saginaw fitting flare tool??? I'm clueless as to what you guys are talking about...

 

I need to focus on one car at a time lol. While your shooting targets out there waiting for your parts, I'm working on the '76 Hurst Trans Am while I wait for mine, and she's got ways to go until she's finished. Should have her running soon, but she needs lots of parts though, and they ain't cheap lmao....

 

Smaller turbine, I'm going to post the diameter specs on both sides when I get the pictures up.....

I just want it to hold together, I just want at least three runs out of it. There were so many stories about Preston Smith and his ten second 305 from way back in the early 90's, but no actual proof (nothing tangible, only word of mouth). We're definitely going to put an end to all of the speculation though....

I think the pressure is on Dave (project89) more than it is on me, cuz if I make more power than him, with a quicker ET and faster trap, he's got some serious explaining to do....

Thanks Sammy....

A lot of guys toss the GM saginaw fittings in favor for aftermarket fittings, but I'm trying to make this as easy as possible for those who want to do something similar on a budget. This will give you a general idea about flaring....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXOo8MtDv7A

 

lmao tomorrow is another range day for me, possibly varmit hunting with a barret .50 bmg

im taking it easy on this car its going to be a dd right now the wastegate has a 10psi spring and thats prolly were it will stay but i m ordering a spring assortment 3.63,7psi,15,21 psi springs

 

Oh my goodness, was that an excuse already lmao???? Don't be a-scared, tis just a 305....

 

lol dont worry 400 ci with 10 psi from a t6 76mm should be plenty fast

 

I know about flaring lines and whatnot... when you guys talk about SAGINAW fittings thats where I'm lost.

 

Saginaw = metric o-ring type fittings....

 

This makes me wanna work on my 305 under a tarp, all the engine parts are cleaned, i wanna get up to around 350 to 400 hp with it and put it in my wife's camaro to replace her V6. This is a lot of encouragement for me since in my area its all 350 whipped nay sayers.