i read in the post "i just saw the fast and the furious" and someone replied that using happy gas on a stick can cause serious damge unless u dont lift or use a nitrous mangaement controller...i plan on getting a tpi kit for mine but i dont want to blow it up because i dont have a stick.....i was also going to get a shifter ball with the activator switch on the top of the ball...so when i shift i let off the switch and i shouldnt have a problem right?? i pretty sure my motor doenst have a rev limiter (im not gonna gonna try n find out lol) otherwise id keep it on the floor and speed shift....let me know guys thanks a lot!!!

91 gta 305 5speed

 

correction

"because i do have a stick"

 

the worst thing to do to a nitro motor, is cause a lean condition, this is what happens when you shift. let me explain. when you let off the gas to shift, the nitrous overloads, causing a extremely lean condiotion. a fuel management sysytem is the way to go. i don't know about the button on the shifter thing... if you get off the gas early at all, or take your hand off the shifter before you're full throttle, you still have a lean condition. stick with the fuel management, and you should be alright.

 

Buy an RPM activated switch it will turn on at a certain rpm
and also back off at a certain RPM.
So activate it around 3000 and deactivate a few hundred before the shift. No worries.

 

how much is the fuel managment and what does it do?
and how much is the rpm activator

the shifterball is from hurst...it can be used for a line lock roll control 2 step nitrous...theres a little buttin on the top of the shifter ball when presseed the desired electronic is activated and deactivated when released.....
so at 3000 lets say i press the button and the spray is activated i get to 5,200 and i let off the button to evacuate the cylinder before i shift so theres no nitrous load up...i get to 2nd and hammer the button then 300 r's before i shift i lay off the button
then repeat with 3rd

wouldnt this work? im open to comments suggeestions and so on or i wouldnt of posted

 

oh, don't get me wrong, the shifter idea works great, as long as you do it EXACTLY the same way. forget about it one time, and that may be the end of mr. piston rings. i like the rpm activated switch, sounds like it would work quite well.

fuel management system = a lot
rpm activated switch = a lot less

 

Sorry it took so long to reply but here it is:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...66&prmenbr=361

 

No rpm modules are supplied so they must be ordered separately

what are they talking about?....76 bucks for savin a motor i think its worth it!

 

yo, DO NOT order that from Jeg's. i am looking in my Summit catalog. hardcore racing section, electrical, same exact thing, $59.95. save some bucks. the rpm modules are little things that plug into the unit, tells what rpm to turn on/off at. in the summit catalog, they are just to the right of the switch. they are $21.69 per pack. i would opt to double that price, have constant adjustability at the turn of a ****, and get the rpm module selector. $45.69 probably go with 3000 - 5200. call up summit, talk to them. 1800-230-3030

 

You got that wrong bud,
The one you are seeing is a single window switch - it will only turn it on,not off.

 

ok say if i get it and set it up so it acticvates at 3000 and deactivates at 5,200...say i miss a shift and the rpms fall back in to activation range and the nitrous turns back on then the nitrous loads up and then im back at square one...i think that with the manuel operation (shifter ball) id rather be one to ***** my motor up then a electronic....

 

If you use a W.O.T. switch, you shouldn't have any of these problems, correct?

 

whoops, my bad. at least i explained the modules right.
i suppose a WOT switch would work. but no, you would not overload your engine. if you miss a shift, your foot is on the gas, not lean, just wasting nitrous. the only way to cause a lean condition, is to take your foot off the gas, still in gear, past the rpm turn on window, same thing as an automatic. i think you should still go with the rpm activated WINDOW switch.

 

I know a couple guys with the 4th gens, that basicly arm the system, and use a clutch activated lock out for shifting.
I'm not an N20 expert, I've always used blowers on carb setups, and now Vortech on TPI.

As far as "racing" goes...

When I race, my right foot is to the floor with every shift, I don't "let off". When you shift, the tack should go one way - down, if it goes up, you need to practice "competition shifting". If you have to bounce the gas between shifts to avoid redlining, try making a few "less competitive" passes to get used to shifting.


-- Joe

 

what he said. if your tach goes up when you shift you will only put more wear and tear on your drivetrain, not to mention make more heat yadda yadda yadda.

 

With nitrous i would not risk it,its $70 insurance.

 

Use a "normally open" switch on the throttle, so the system can only activate at wide open throttle. Also put a switch on the clutch pedal lever, so that the switch contacts are closed when the clutch is engaged, but open when the pedal is depressed.
Wire the switches in series so both switches must be closed to activate the nitrous solenoids.
This setup will protect the engine no matter if you granny shift or speed shift. For even more control use the RPM window switch with the above switch setup.