I have a turbo car, it's a talon tsi awd it's running about 16 pounds of boost now going for about 22 later. I was really into v8's worked on my friends chevy's but got the talon because it was cheaper and a better daily driver. Most sbc guys I know, know nothing about turbo's so any questions I might be able to answer to help you guys out, I'm not a ***** my car doesn't have stickers or lights or any of that crap, looking for a easy way to get into the low 12's and still have a car I can drive in the winter.

 

There was no 350 tbi

 

Do you plan to turbocharge a sbc engine? From what I've seen the cheapest way to do it is find an older carb'd (lower tech IMHO) setup and install it on a carb'd engine. Good luck tuning that!! haha When you get into EFI turbo setups on SBC's or v8's in general it starts to become alot of $$$.

Curious what your ideas are ...

 

Ok I have a question for you. Boost to back ratio on the turbo engines that I work on have always been greater than 1, sometimes much greater, until recently because of emissions reasons. Anyway I was having a discussion on Turboford and several of them said that boost to back was always less than 1. Sometimes all the way down to .33. Is that the way your Talon runs?

 

how fast is your talon right now? just wondering, not to flame i know a few guys running mid-low 12s in them.

 

What do you want to know? I used to be the sales manager for Hahn Racecraft (HRC). You could say I know DSM's very well...

 

nice pre-ban AR shorty, those canadian mags work pretty good huh? thats a pretty good price. is it a bushy, oly, or colt? M&A is sending me my new A2 commander upper (11.5" w/5.5" flash) w/freefloat handguard, pretty quick for my pre-ban bushy. going to be my wifes, I'm gettin a CETME w/black furniture and nicer reciever. Ordering my Hesse HBR 50 BMG next month. http://www.hessearms.com/HBR50%20Rifles.htm

 

Actually, those are Israeli Orlite mags on the right. The ones on the left are USA mags. The gun is an original Colt HBAR Comp Match with A3 upper...

CETME rifles aren't bad. You may be interested in one of my other toys. Please note the original HK furniture, with wide foregrip and HK bipod.

 

Guns are fun but I'm on probation so I cant play

 

What did you do drift into the side of another car on the street?

 

LOL!

Yo, Curt! When am I gonna see that turbo beast tearing up US41? :rockon:

 

GMI FAST,

When are you going to finish your single conversion? Before or after you wipe out the Taliban?

Robert

 

LOL! Hell, send me over, man! I'm good to go!

Single conversion? Now who would do such a thing to a daily-driven Supra? It's there, dude:

 

What does it dyno at and run at the track?

I envy every one of you bastards with forced induction. :sillylol:

 

Haven't finished the entire car yet. Waiting on:

a) transmission
b) torque converter
c) custom rear suspension items

I hope to tune the car and make some passes in September. Cars running the same Greddy T88 turbo as I am have gone low-10's using the stock engine and no nitrous. I have a built shortblock, fully-ported head, sheetmetal intake manifold, and will be spraying it with a 150hp dry-fogger kit...

 

Oh how I want a setup like that. I've seen SWs black single supra race on videos and that car is amazing. I like the 150 shot just to increase the chance of inflicting death upon yourself. I fancy fitting N20 to my car but hate the thought of having to refil the bottle, and worry that something will break. I've built my motor for a D1sc supercharger so may just have to wait until the funds come my way....which better be next year.

I wait in anticipation until the day that Guido has his project finished. That will indeed be another amazing machine.


Robert

 

Car has been sold.

You should have seen that sucker scoot in person!

"...9.81 @ 153.58mph on a stock bottom end. The head has NEVER been off this car. This run was made on high boost and a small 70hp shot of NOS...only the second time this car has been to the track! This is a full weight, full interior street car which SW took his little girl to school, then 12 hours later, runs a 9.81 @ 153.58mph. We definately need a cage for some more runs, actually, we need a parachute." --TurboImports.com

:hail: 2JZ-GTE 3.0L I6

 

Yeah, I saw that he had sold it...to make room for his new car He has a nice stable of cars and I simply love the 550 in black. We have a black one near my house but he doesn't get it out much.

Also, are you planning to use that 150 shot just for out of the whole or the whole time?

Someday I'll have a car that fast but it wont begin the build until I hit 11s with my current project.

Robert

 

Second Degree Assult

 

All the way, dude. With the AEM stand alone system I am running, I have some choices. Here they are, from fast to fastest:

a) 23psi on 93 pump gas
b) 18psi on 93 pump gas w/75hp single stage NOS
c) 35psi on VP C16 gas
d) 30psi on VP C16 gas w/150hp dual stage NOS

It's perfect and foolproof. I have the ability to have optimal tuning whether I have a tank full of pump gas or an empty nitrous bottle. The reason I will run less boost with nitrous is due to the fact that boost pressure jumps when spraying, and I like my head bolts where they are!

 

Its amazing those 2jz-gte's can take such a beating. One of my wet dreams has always been a single T88 turbocharged 1uz-fe 4.0ltr v8 (with stock foarged internals and VVT-i) from a Lexus GS400/LS400 in a Supra body with the A/B Flung Widebody kit and a 150 shot of nitrous. Just pure insanity!!!

 

Not too surprising as these motors were designed to be overly strong from the factory. I heard that there were problems with an earlier motor (1JZ-GTE perhaps?) and as a result the predecessor was a far supoerior piece of engineering. I believe also that the head gaskets from Toyota are about as good as they can be too.

The Supra is the only Jap car that I would consider buying. The GTR is nice but I like the rear drive better than 4 even though the 4 will have harder launches. But that's just me.

 

The problem was head gasket failure that was popular in 3.0L turbo 7MGTE MKIII Supras from 1987-1992.

The 1JZ-GTE was a Japan-only option in later year MKIII cars. It was a 2.5L twin-turbo version of the present MKIV 2JZ engine...

 

the colt makes that an even better deal. whenever I see the oralite mags I think of the large # of canadian mil surplus I see for sale cheap. did that start life as a CETME?, SAR?, HK? not that it matters to me the cheaper the better.

 

riiiiiiiight... thats a nice supra u got there.... 1 of 3 cars i respect on the street... anyway, u said if anyone has questions on turbo, to ask here, well alright... and i just want one person to answer... but u guys can chime in on any incorrect info... #1 what does a waste gate do and where does it go in the line of the turbo, before the turbo, in the turbo, after the turbo, #2 how does one control boost?... i belive that after i understand the answer to #1, ill get #2. #3. what does a blow off valve do or is it self explanitory?... #4 about how much boost do u have to run till u start to think about changing parts of the engine to where it can take the pressure... such as forged pistons, rods, cams, valves, crank, what have you.... thank you guys for ur time... i know this sport compact thing isnt going away anytime soon... as much as i would like it to.... it aint.. so to beat the enemy, u must understand the enemy... ok i know its long... take ur time thank

 

1. A wastegate diverts exhaust gasses away from the blades on the exhaust side of the turbo. Less exhuast gas equals less spin = less boost. The wastegate opens at a certain pressure by using either a spring, or a vacuum line tied into it, or both. Also, there are external and internal gates. Internal are found on most stock sized turbo's you'd find on DSMs, 3000GT/Stealths, Supras, etc.., they are built into the exhaust housing of the turbo, and divert it around the blades and toward your tailpipes. external are usually for your BIG aftermarket turbos, and are located, well.. externally.

2. see above

3. BOV. When the compressor is spinning it is forcing air through a pipe forward into the engine. When the throttle plates snap shut (you let off the gas), that air hits a wall. When that air tries to move back toward the turbo, which is still spinning, its basically like throwing a wrench in the blades to slow it down.. A BOV avoids this by diverting the pressure away from that pipe. It usually has a vac line attached so when you snap shut the throttle, theres a pressure difference between the BOV's line and its fitting on the pipe, causing it to open. Closed loop BOV's divert this air back into the intake tract, after the filter, before the turbo (in a MAF system, diverting already measured air is a bad thing, usually it causes a rich condition during shifts). Open atmosphere purges the air to your engine compartment, creating the characteristic "Pssssssst" which is about the best reason to have a turbo.. well I guess the power is kinda nice too..

4. I dont know. Boost is caused by restriction.. slap a turbo on a 500cc engine, and you're going to create a lot of boost, put it on a 8 liter engine, it will almost never create any boost. sooo.. a smaller 305 engine will 'fill' more quickly than a larger 400. for specific parts, just do a search, everyone is going to have their own combo for their CR and turbo/sc that is 'just right', or so they think

 

wow for ur first post that was a lot huh!... hehehe anyway thanks, i now understand the basics of turbos... no i know what there talkin about when they are all around there little 4cyl turbos... no to take anything away from turbos.... i dont fuc)k with turbo cars... well i chases a TSI one time... i was surprised i was keepin up with him... he had what look like a lot done to his car... couldnt really tell... dont know import motors that well...

 

well that's the 'bad' thing about turbos.. as long as they keep the exhaust close to stock, you'd never have any idea how big of a turbo they have under the hood, but you'll find out very quickly TSi's are decent stock fwd, awd aren't as quick up top.. but swapping in say a 16g for less than $600, and now its a whole new ballgame. my lowly L69 monte doesn't even try 'em.. it knows who will win

btw TSi is 2.0 DOHC Mitsu with 14g turbo, unless it's a 2nd gen, got the smaller, 'torque-ier' T25. little over 200hp/tq -- might be wrong, sounds about right

 

jeffm gave a really good explination. Easy way to think about it is both a BOV and a wastegate release pressure. The wastegate is there to make sure the turbo dosn't build too much pressure on the compressor side (and maybe blow up) and a BOV is there to release the pressure in the intercooler system so it can start building again next gear. Wastegates are on all turbo's but a BOV is optional depending on if the setup has an intercooler and how much boost you run. Another option to a blow off valve is a by-pass valve. For some setups (like the one on my mustang) a by-pass valve can be better. Instead of releasing the pressure into the atmosphere it runs it back into the system.

And for #4, the ammount of boost you can run before breaking stuff depends on the compression ratio of the engine. If the engine has a low compression ratio (like a L98 = 9.3:1) then it can take more boost. If the compression ratio is high (like a LT1 = 10.5:1) then you need to run less boost. An engine built for boost can have anywhere from 8.0:1 compression to 9.0:1. Most guys run 8.0:1 to 8.5:1. But if the engine is built for boost with foarged internals and really strong head/studs and stuff, then it can take higher boost pressure than normal. Some people consider a 'safe' level of boost on most non-built engines between 6 and 9 psi. 6 being for the higher compression engines like LS1's, LT1's, etc and 9 for the lower compression engines like a L98. But you must understand that you are putting alot of pressure on the engine and it will eventually need to be rebuilt for boost. For built engines with low compression and foarged internals you could run 15-20 psi. Kinda depends on the setup. My mustang engine is a 2.3ltr @ 8.0:1 compression and foarged internals. I run 14psi and it has been proven to take18psi on this setup. And the only thing holding it at 18psi is the turbo itself (Garret T3). Once I upgrade to the t3/t4 hybrid it can take 25 psi. Then people hit around 390rqhp/410rwtq with all the other mods as well (cam, exhaust, downpipe, etc)

 

our shop built our first one this year with just bolt ons: 16g (w/hybrid impeller), adj wastegate, huge intercooler, and ported intake/exhaust manifolds. it ran 12.40's on 17 psi at 5800 foot altitude on a horrifically low air density (24.1") indicated hot day with 1200 degree (slightly rich) egt's. p.s. you cannot powershift this thing due to the linkage design and even if you could I we be afraid of breaking the trans.