Hey Guys,

I'm thinking of repinning over to a 730 ecm over the winter, and
upgrading to like 12psi of boost for next season.

I'm running the 165, and burning proms but, I'm considering the 730. Anyone here running boost w/ 730 thats not in stock form?
I mean like, any low 12, high 11 second cars under boost? Only guy I know running those times on a 730 is Traxion, and he's not boosted. I'm curious if the boost w/ 730 setup will work ok, or if I should stick with the 165.

Now, on the prom board, I havn't really gotten any responses. I know some guys talking about using modified code and different map sensors but, I dont wanna be fighting this all winter.. I'd like
a clean swap and some tuning..

Anyone??

-- Joe

 

If your going to repin, get a 749 and run the $58 code. Do a search for 749 on the DIY Prom board. The 730 code at present does not have any provision to run boost, unless you plan to use a FMU. cheers, Bob

 

You know, from what I can tell that’s not entirely right (if someone knows for sure, right or wrong speak up, but I’m going to answer this based on the information that I’ve gathered on the subject). The 749 and the 730 appear to be the same series of ECM’s with similar hardware, they are just pinned differently (so you’d have to pin your harness differently to switch between the 2). They have the same injector drivers and basically the same circuitry, and the same code should work in either as long as you’ve got the harness pinned for the ECM you’re using.

 

I know that its been done, running a 730 with $58 code, pinned as a 749, but I haven't done it so I was just sticking to what I know has worked. (at least for me)

 

Yea, I'm not saying that I've done it or know exactly how, but I do know for a fact that they are the same series of ECM and that others claim that going 730 or 749 is a 6 or half dozen argument. The only real reason that I'm bringing it up is that 749's are MUCH harder to find then 730's.

BTW, Saturn, how's your combination comming? I'm sure you saw the same information as I did about the injector drivers (4 low impedance or 6/8 high, probably the reason that your original injectors worked even though they shouldn't have) and the other chips available? I'm still trying to decide if converting a 730/749 would work for my application, but I'm not in that big a hurry.

 

Well unfortunitly I sold my T-bird injectors prior to getting that info and have 8 GN 30's coming. I could not find a vender to get the same Mosfet the SyTy guys are using, but I did get several samples of a "beefier" Mosfet from Fairchild Semiconductors. (75A 100V max vs. 44A 60V max) I'm going to swap in those once I get a chance into my extra ECM (might look into modding a 730, add a second driver to mimic a 749) and do some run in tests on my bench. Did get some info that the modded 749 will support 8 P/H's. But no big hurry here. At present, updating my resume, and looking for a new job. (long story..quit my last job of 8 years.) cheers, Bob

 

You want to repin for the 749 ECM. I am in the process of making an adapter to convert my harness to 749 Male ends. Yes, I know that I could just repin but I want the ability to quickly and easily swap ECMs for various purposes. I'm eventually going to forced induction. Already have a custom bracket fabbed by BlownBird (Don Barnett) and I have Blown406Bird's old Cog Pulley Setup and discharge tube (Tory Hess). Here's a pic (very big)...

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/progress/DCP_0224.JPG

Tim

 

Alright Tim, that and your picture raises a bunch of questions:
- What does swapping to a 749 give you over a 730?
- Are those stock TPI throttle and TV cables?
- What is the red bar going diagonally across the bottom (between the rad and alternator in the pic)?
- Have you done something with the wiring harness? You don’t appear to have anywhere near the big looms that I’ve got, ex, where you’ve got the single small loom going over the inside face of the passenger strut tower I’ve got a big one that splits into a big and medium size one. My temp sender on the driver’s side has the wiring coming out of the AC harness on top of everything on the driver’s side (I’d love to get rid of that mess entirely and have min coming from the bottom like yours). I’ve got a ton more stuff between the firewall/back of the engine and the driver’s side strut tower. A lot of which is not being used (ex, cruise control, long gone but big harness with vacuum tubing still there)…
- No heat?

BTW, that is one seriously beefy blower bracket, what blower is going in there?

 

The 749 can supply fuel based on greater than 100kPa. The 730 running $8D code can only register 100kPa. The 749 running $58 code can register boost (i.e. greater than 100kPa)

Yes.

That is a jack handle - lol. You need to jack the engine up to install the driver's side long tube header.

No. I have the looms tucked aside right now to give me more room to work. The only wierd thing I did was to relocate the knock sensor on the driver's side due to the installation of long tube headers. But, that has nothing to do with the 749.

You got it. No heat. My car is always stored during winter time.

Eventually a Vortech YS-Trim. The bracket is 3/4" T6061 aluminum on the back and 1/2" T6061 aluminum on the front.

Tim

 

Well, that’s sorta what’s at issue here. There’s a bunch of people that claim that you can run modified $58 code in a 730. I know that the actual hardware is fairly similar with a different pinout, the question is if you run the right code will it work?

that’s one beefy bracket. I’ve made 2 in the last year and a half or so and didn’t have any problems with 3/8” aluminum. Of course, they had some plates welded making 90* angles which reinforces things more then just 2 plates spaced apart.

Looks good… and gave me some ideas…

 

Interesting,

I'd like to see it works well. Who on here has done this so far? I've seen everyone talk about doing , talk about it can be done. but anyone here doing it?

-- Joe