Mini tubbing the Malibu
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
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Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Mini tubbing the Malibu
Well since its getting cold out I decided what the heck and started mini tubbing the Malibu. Took about 6 hours to measure and cut the inner wheel house and frame using a cutoff wheel and sawzall. Havent determined if I will stretch the original wheel house ( its got some rust damage) or if I'll build a new inner house from scratch (probibly). Moving the inner house in 2 1/2" and narrowed the frame 1 1/2". I should be able to fit a 28x13.5 on a 10 inch wheel (5.5bs). I must be nutz... :lala:
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
looks like you've got "your work cut out for you"
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
looks like you've got "your work cut out for you"
looks like you've got "your work cut out for you"
I want to stuff some 315/35/17's in there this spring. I know that the G-body guys with this same mod are stuffing 28X13.5 slicks. I haven't figured out what rim I want, torq thrusts would be cool, but everyones running them. Might look into Centerlines new billets. cheers, Bob
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I just had to
two things I won't try are body or interior work. I figure I dont have the patience for it so I would rather just pay someone or as is the usual case do without it. I have thought about mini tubing on the 91 and may employ the cage builder to add them. It looks like you have the job under control. wheel tubs appear to be the kind of thing that as long as they function, that they are not readily visible so unless you take off your tire or your trunk is open nobody can see them, only the huge "meats" that end up under the car attract attention (that and the traction enduced @$$ whuppin that will commence)
two things I won't try are body or interior work. I figure I dont have the patience for it so I would rather just pay someone or as is the usual case do without it. I have thought about mini tubing on the 91 and may employ the cage builder to add them. It looks like you have the job under control. wheel tubs appear to be the kind of thing that as long as they function, that they are not readily visible so unless you take off your tire or your trunk is open nobody can see them, only the huge "meats" that end up under the car attract attention (that and the traction enduced @$$ whuppin that will commence) Thread Starter
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Well I got the outer rail cut down and rewelded tonight. You can see how far I was able to move in the outer by the ends. Gained an additional 1/1/4 clearance.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I think you are going to have to use real metal not just cardboard
Just Kidding. What will you use to re-enforce the narrowed frame rail?
Just Kidding. What will you use to re-enforce the narrowed frame rail? Thread Starter
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
But cardboard and Elmers are soo much easier to use!!
I reused the stock outer frame rail. I removed about an inch from it leaving a lip. The outer frame rail slids into the inner, just like stock, so its doubled up and boxed. sorta like this []. The area behind is a massive crossmember that locates the rear,springs, and shocks. Most narrowed G-bodies I've seen just use some .090 sheet to cap the framerail, I figured the original would be better..
I reused the stock outer frame rail. I removed about an inch from it leaving a lip. The outer frame rail slids into the inner, just like stock, so its doubled up and boxed. sorta like this []. The area behind is a massive crossmember that locates the rear,springs, and shocks. Most narrowed G-bodies I've seen just use some .090 sheet to cap the framerail, I figured the original would be better..
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