Superam vs StealthRam for supercharged engines
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
Superam vs StealthRam for supercharged engines
I was thinking of trading my Superam for cash, then buying the Stealthram. My questions are: 1) shouldn't it be just as good on a supercharged engine? 2) Does it have ERG provisions? 3) will it work fine w/ my factory harness and accel 1000cfm tb?
I can use the leftover money to build my motor.
I can use the leftover money to build my motor.
1) just as good as the superram, just less of a PITA to work on obviously
2) no egr (you can pass emissions w/o EGR)
3) ya, it should work fine with your factory harness, might have to lenghten your wires a bit. The TB should be fine
2) no egr (you can pass emissions w/o EGR)
3) ya, it should work fine with your factory harness, might have to lenghten your wires a bit. The TB should be fine
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
So I guess it's a go. I was really worried about the EGR thing though..YOu don't think that'll affect how the car runs and whatnot, do you? Is it just as easy to pass emissions w/out the EGR? I know that the cam really has a lot to do with that.
Also, will it make just as much power as the Superam, or no?
Well, anyway, I guess I have an SuperRam for sale. How much are they getting for them used, w/out the TB? -Anybody else have any thoughts on the Stealthram? Any drawbacks?
thanks again
Also, will it make just as much power as the Superam, or no?
Well, anyway, I guess I have an SuperRam for sale. How much are they getting for them used, w/out the TB? -Anybody else have any thoughts on the Stealthram? Any drawbacks?
thanks again
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
How do you disable it, or am I beter off dealing w/ the SuperRam?
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
when you say PITA you mean the fuel lines, emissions, wiring and that sort off stuff. Because I have decided to run one in my blown car but it will barely be a semblance of its old self under the hood when Im done ( accessory and emissions wise ). A cowl hood was laready planned too.
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no i mean PITA by the thing istelf, its a pain to put together and take apart and i just wouldn't own one
if i had kept a LTR runner setup, i would probably just do some porting and siamesing and kept that setup. Otherwise i'd have a short runner intake
if i had kept a LTR runner setup, i would probably just do some porting and siamesing and kept that setup. Otherwise i'd have a short runner intake
To some extent I agree with 89Procha..., the thing is flat out the Biggest PITB to put together, BUT how many times will you have to take it appart? & if you do there are tricks.
just another perspective.
BW
just another perspective.
BW
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
so are you saying that the Stealth is better or atleast equivelent to the Superram total hp/torque on blown motors? Or just that the stealth is easier? and yes, I don't plan on putting it together alot, but it is still a very cramped setup, so i was looking for something simpler. My only concern is that I don't lose hp and that it'll run just as good w/out egr and pass emissions just as well.
Last edited by Justin 87 GTA; Nov 6, 2002 at 04:29 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Oh yeah the superram is harder to take apart, change injectors or adjust the FPR. I thought you meant it the other way around, Heck I dont see even on a stealthram why you would have to take it apart to remove, install, change injectors, on it.
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
I know that the superam is harder, I have one. I just wanted to know if the stealth was as good as the superram. Will it make as much power and will it run as well w/out the egr valve?
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I dont see why not, I saw a flow bench chart (maybe TPIS has it) where it showed a superram flows only 280 max CFM per runner, and a stealth flows like 300 cfm (according to the steathram forum threads). Ifind the 300 CFM easily belived because many tunnel ram and carbed intakes can perform this feat, as they are a straight shot large port. I like the idea of reduced restriction. Considering the 1205 gasket size you will not find any off the shelf head, offered by anyone ported or not with that gasket size that can flow anywhere near 300 CFM.
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
well, I guess my only other concern is emmissions then, but if I retard the timing, it'll pass w/out the EGR.
Being that the motor is under boost, it shouldn't matter which intake I have, even the stock tpi should make just as much power as any other intake right?
Being that the motor is under boost, it shouldn't matter which intake I have, even the stock tpi should make just as much power as any other intake right?
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
if that was the case that would go for heads (why not use stock ones), engine size (just use a 305), you know what I mean?
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
WEll the heads determine how much exhaust comes out.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
except that exhaust side flow on any SBC head, even on bad smog heads is not considered "bad", being that the port size is so short and un-shrouded anyways.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
Right, and the s/c is cramming it in, so explain more, I'm not sure if I follow you. why do you need the better intake? thanks
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boston, MA
Car: Corvettes
Engine: Modified L98 & LT5
Transmission: DN 4+3 & ZF6
Axle/Gears: 3.07 & 4.10
I see the superram is getting its usual PITA bad wrap for working with in here. 
The first time I put my superram on yeah it did blow. But since then I now think it is very easy. There are many tricks to making this baby installed easy.
1. Tap/clean all holes. You won't believe how much of a difference this makes. My bolts all threaded in very hard the first time. When I ran a tap into them though they fingered in so smooth it was like a dream.
2. Drill out center plenum threads for inner runner bolts and thread the runners themselves. You can now install the inner bolts from from inside the plenum. Use a lockwasher and some red loctite and these suckers won't ever move.
3. Grab a 12-point 1/4" wratchet wrench. Makes things a dream for the runner to plenum bolts.
4. Grab a metric-6 ball-ended Snap-On allen wrench. This will make doing the lower runner to intake bolts easy and you won't even have to take the exhaust rockers off to do it.
5. Grab a metric-6 3/8" drive Snap-On socket. The Snap-On ones have a longer shank on them making the other runner to intake bolts really easy to do.
I've had my superram on and off the car probably 4 or 5 times in the last 5 months, its honestly not that bad.

The first time I put my superram on yeah it did blow. But since then I now think it is very easy. There are many tricks to making this baby installed easy.
1. Tap/clean all holes. You won't believe how much of a difference this makes. My bolts all threaded in very hard the first time. When I ran a tap into them though they fingered in so smooth it was like a dream.
2. Drill out center plenum threads for inner runner bolts and thread the runners themselves. You can now install the inner bolts from from inside the plenum. Use a lockwasher and some red loctite and these suckers won't ever move.
3. Grab a 12-point 1/4" wratchet wrench. Makes things a dream for the runner to plenum bolts.
4. Grab a metric-6 ball-ended Snap-On allen wrench. This will make doing the lower runner to intake bolts easy and you won't even have to take the exhaust rockers off to do it.
5. Grab a metric-6 3/8" drive Snap-On socket. The Snap-On ones have a longer shank on them making the other runner to intake bolts really easy to do.
I've had my superram on and off the car probably 4 or 5 times in the last 5 months, its honestly not that bad.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 844
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
Yeah, but it still gets in the way of everything, and all I was asking was if I could sell mine, and pickup a cheaper Stealthram. Then I could use the money to get a DFI or put it towards my motor.
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