I wanted to post here, so as not to ruin the other thread. First, of all, I just wanted to say I'm back and hello to all, and an update on my motor. I pulled it over the weekend, and I'm getting ready to tear it down. Now about the other post; 2 questions: (not meant to be rude or start a fight) BUT: I know that it is everyones opinion, but it seems the advise varies SO MUCH. How is anybody expected to make an informed decision with all of these opinions? I would like to see people back up their opinoins and not post unless they are willing to do so. Hardly any of them are back up with stated reasons. I would also like to see reponses by people who have the experience and aren't just making this stuff up an guessing. It seems to me, many of the posts may be "theoretical". I AM NOT TRYING TO **** ANYONE OFF, but i respect this board very much, and have been on it since the beginning. I'd just like to see a little more integrity back into the replies.. It is a tech board, but it just seems to be a little diluted. How do you know who really knows what they're talking about? And, if you were looking at the replies, would you be able to make any sense of it all. I'm still tying to decide what motor to get, but the truth is, I've asked the same question before and gotton so many different ideas, and I didn't really learn much about why each part is better than the next. thanks please reply. and please don't be mad!

 

the problem of experience is more complicated than that. Different experiences from different variables of failure create different opinions. Some people are perfectly happy running nitrous or blowers on hyperuetectic pistons. In my opinion this is due to sheer luck on their behalf. I like to run nasty stuff on factory 400 blocks. there are many here that would never use anything short of a bowtie or aftermarket block on nasty applications. I am tainted towards strength and cost. I always say TRW (federal mogul) forged pistons because they are undesputedly the strongest mass produced and cheapest piston there is. this is because nobody else uses as much metal and forged under as much pressure as they do. they are the only forged piston ever used by the OEM auto manufacturer. I feel the same about crane extruded aluminum rockers for this reason. I have seen TRW's stand up to some very serious mishaps, this forms my opinion of them. I also say try to run a factory forged crank (if you are building a 327 or 350). I have seen a factory forged 350 crank, properly prepped and inspected pushed to obscene hp with no failure in a blown alcohol dragster running 7's. Also a friend of mine has one in his 377 that he commonly pushes to 7800 rpm when racing to 11.30's on nitrous (remember we are at 6000 ft that would be in the 10's at lower altitudes), also it is street driven. The connecting rod, well the rod is a significant subject. I have seen dramatically failed engines (broken crank or piston) with the factory rods tied nearly into a nice knot. Considering the failure wasnt from the rods this is significant to me. that a rod would be bent into a loop bent in 3 directions under massive force without splitting. I have seen this time and time again. a factory rod at high RPM with a heavy piston (TRW's are notoriously heavy) can be a problem, a big problem. If RPMs are kept in the 6000 to 6500 range the amount of forces exerted are not as extreme and this is livable. If you can spring the extra money there are commonly lots of rods in the $200-$300 range this is pricey, but considering a rod like a head can be an investment that can be used over and over again no matter how you evolve from a super strong 350, to a 5.7 rodded 383, to a 5.7 rodded 406. I see 5.7" fake eagle H-beams on Ebay for around $300 all the time. I myself got very involved into an exotic combo that has caused me great delay in my project. sometimes I wish I would have just gone with a strongly built 350 and called it done. can you ever make up for it with a fast car the years that can go by while you were wishing you could be racing?

 

yeah, I agree, I sometimes think I should just slap it bach together, and just get it done with quickly so I could be out using it. Too bad the money is tight now. Anyway, thanks for the good advise. That is more like it!

 

I left out something important on the stock rod thing A-R-P you know what I mean?

 

Oh yeah, you have to use ARP bolts.

 

Yeah i guess eveyone has to use there own knowledge and experience with coming up with a combo. As for me i have been through 2 motor already in my 69 camaro with N.O.S and they both went bad. As for the Iroc i just need to build something that will handle the R-trim on race day and all the chicks on cruise day.
So the post that people did reply to did help me in give me diffrent ideas to think about.

Thanks
Andy

 

I kind of just wanted more facts and explanations for what they were saying. This way i can learn. I am still undecided on my block. look at my sig. later

 

I always try to explain what I say, but sometimes the explanations can be fairly complicated. It just get really hard to explain finite element analysis on a message board.

 

You'll always get many answers & opinions on the message boards. It's the nature of the internet. People who know what they are talking about post, as do people who think they do, but don't know any better. After a while, you begin to know the regulars, start trusting them, etc. Until then, caveat emptor. The best way (IMHO) is to learn as much as possible, search the archives, ask questions, and then form your own opinion. My personal style is big on substance, and less on the fuzzy "I've been doing this for 30 years, and it works" kind of reasoning. If I don't understand, I'll keep at it till I do understand the how & why of it. Don't take everything as gospel, since much of it can be wives tales, passed down the chain.

 

I understand that you'll get to know who the regulars are. Ofcoarse I know who they are. Unfortunately all of their ideas and opinions are diferrent, and many of which are conflicting. This is not to say that they don't know what they are talking about, all I'm saying is that it is hard to make sense of it all. Anyway, i agree that you should read it all and then form your own ideas, but in the case of motor specs, that could be risky. Anyway, I'd appreciate it if on serious posts like that, poeple on this board should be more specific and back up the claims with reasons. I know the nature of the net, but this board is relatively private, and we know almost everyone here. Thanks

 

Justin, The basic question. What do you want and how do you intend to use it.
I see you have short block listed... The short block is just the processor for what really counts. The ability to move air and fuel out the tail pipe with efficiency.

The very fisrt thing you need to consider is cylinder heads, induction and exhaust. If your going to run a typical TPI set up then porting the intake air system with a good set of flowing heads, a high lift short duration cam and a great exhaust will provide you with more street torque then you could ever imagine. Torque = quickness in a TPI motor. Don't be fooled by large cams which pull you out of the efficiency power band and don't fall into the 305 head thing either. Many people run them but you would'nt find them on a car driven by the pro's if they were to run cast chevy heads. Want proof read what John Lingenfelter, David Vizard or Emanual have to say on anything I am talking about. These guys have thousands of hours in testing alone. That is what I like to look at.

TPI port volocity can be a wonderfull thing with the right combination on the street without speending a small fortune and you can build some awesome power. Now if your going to run some other type of power adder like a blower, Nos or turbo then that changes everything. With money as an issue that is the last thing you need. A roots blower alone means everything is HD between the rear lug nuts to the fuel supply. That transfers to a lotta bucks...

Here is what I run, for the money it's a rocket on the street
* 355 ci
* Ported & Polished Cylinder Heads 993 castings
* 2.02 & 1.6 Manley Pro-Flo Valves
* G.M.P.P. Ram Jet Roller Cam Part # 14097395
* Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers
* Speed Pro/TRW 1.25 Dome Forged Pistons
* Balanced Lower End
* Ported and Gasket Matched Intake Plentum, Runners and Manifold
* 52MM Holley Throttle Body
* Custom built Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Set at 46 lbs ( 51 under Full Throttle )
* Edlebrock Chrome T.E.S. Headers -- 50 State legal --
* High-Flow 3" Cat with 3" Flowmaster Cat Back System

 

90 formula x-f,
Thanks for the reply. But my situation is a little different. I have a Vortech w/ 10 and 15lb pulleys (s-trim). I have a accel superam w/ 100cfm tb and 26lb inj, i have trickflow 66cc 2.02 twisted wedge heads (stock). I have a block that is blown (unsure from what). it had 9.5:1 pistons, which i'd like to lower. I want to go somewhere around 8-8.5:1 compression w/ blower pistons and something like an lpe 220 blower cam. I just don't know what the best parts and combination will be. I'd like to reuse my heads to save $ and possibly my rods/crank. I'd like to get great DURABILITY and have the possiblity of passing emissions w/ the cat hooked up and smog pump if I need to (i can disconct the blower) and of coarse it should be fast,...at least 115 mph in qtr. But I want it to run on pump gas, and non intercooled for now. I will probably run 10lbs boost untill i get an intercooler and run 15lbs. thans for any advise.
justin

 

Getting it to trap at 115 should be no problem. The Z28tt did 114 mph on 5psi w/ the turbos, stock L98 heads & cam, 52mm throttlebody, and Super Ram intake.

A.

 

any recomendations and why??

 

Daaa yam, That changes alot.... not much help here
we run a 6-700 horse 360 sprint car. with a second engine if needed. Took first in points in both sprint sections. We went through a lot of blocks during sonic testing before we found a good one.. For strength and longivity, have the block sonic tested and purchase splayed main caps before machine work is done. The believe we run a Lunati knife edge crank in the new one but really have to check, Bought it last season. JE pistons.. We also run Brodnix cylinder heads with offset rockers. All runs of alcohol and a hilborn injection system. Always wanted to pop one in my bird for the weekend but the cost of repairs if I were to blow it is more than i could personal handle. Thank *** for sponsers.... The other engine, we bought someones whole ride so it hasn't been apart yet but we have run it.. As far as Cam and pistons.. Don't know. From what I read a dish piston in a 383 with about 8.5 should work out, the boost may be a little high with out octaine. Also the heads should perform better without large porting mods providing better port volocity off idle for better off idle responce.

 

well thank you , that was a very honest reply! anybody have any combos? thanks