92GTA

iTrader: (11)

All questions are in reference to the ATI ProCharger D-1SC and a 305 TPI SD w/auto and Accel 24# injectors.

1) If you use the Walbro GSS340 and the 749 ECM, does that mean you wouldn't have to run the ATI FMU? I'll be using the Holly Forced Induction AFPR too. Also what fuel filter do I use for a ProCharger?

2) I like the cog setup Willie uses so that there is no chance of slipping. Where do you get that setup and can you still run all the factory accessories like A/C, smog, and power steering? Do you ever have to worry about the belt working it's way forward and coming off?

3) What's the best BOV on the market to use with the ATI that is quiet and inexpensive? I want my setup to be nice to my charger in terms of abuse that's why I want ab BOV but do I need one running only 9psi?

4) I don't want to have to have an MSD box in my engine compartment. Is just the MSD Coil for Dual Connector GM Applications that ThunderRacing sells good enough if I run the R43TS plugs, set the gap at .035", run the twin IC setup like Willie and mypontiac, a 170 degree thermostat, install a 166 degree primary fan switch, program the PROM to kick on the secondary fan at 180, only run 7-9psi with the factory 9.3:1 compreesion, maybe retard the timing a couple degrees and use 92 octane gas? I also have access to 100 octane pump gas in my town, would that be ok with all of the above if I didn't use the MSD box? Or do I HAVE to use an MSD box and if so, where can I hide the stupid thing? What about other coils that might do the job?

Thanks! I have a couple more but this is it for now. Also incase you are wondering why I want a D-1SC with a BOV and a cog setup on a 305, it's because when this motor blows I will be building a 400ci miniram motor and 20+ psi

Willie

iTrader: (1)

If you use the Walbro GSS340 and the 749 ECM, does that mean you wouldn't have to run the ATI FMU? I'll be using the Holly Forced Induction AFPR too.

The 749 "sees" boost. Therefore, you will not need any supplemental fuel delivery system, such as an FMU. The 340 should be sufficient. But if it isn't, use a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump with it and you'll never have to worry about fuel delivery again.

My concern is the 24#ers. They will not be sufficient to handle the additional fuel needed with a supercharger.

I didn't know Holley has an AFPR dedicated solely for blown applications. Do you have a P/N?


Also what fuel filter do I use for a ProCharger?
You can continue to use a stock-type fuel filter.


I like the cog setup Willie uses so that there is no chance of slipping. Where do you get that setup....

The cog pullies themselves are ATI's. The blower pulley is specific to the blower. The crank pulley is not designed for our cars so an adapter must be fabricated (more on this later). The idlers (two) are custom fabricated (more later).

In addition, it's very important to stiffen the blower bracket beyond ATI's design. This is because with cogs, there is absolutely no belt slippage. With no slippage, the "weakest link" becomes bracket flex. This must be prevented with additional bracing.

All additional bracing, the crank pulley adapter and idlers are fabricated by ASSC Racing. Larry's the guru there as he runs this setup on his daily-driven third gen Formula. He put together my parts and has done so for many others.


.... and can you still run all the factory accessories like A/C, smog, and power steering?

Absolutely. I do!


Do you ever have to worry about the belt working it's way forward and coming off?

The design flaw for cog pullies is that they cannot be machined with lips. This by itself provides absolutely no guarantee that a belt will not walk off either edge. It's the idler pullies that hold the belt in place. They are machined with very tall edges, which hold the belt in place. With a rib setup, the pullies must be perfectly aligned, otherwise the belt will walk. With cogs, the alignment isn't as critical as the belt is allowed to walk slightly over the width of the cogs, which are wider than the belt.


What's the best BOV on the market to use with the ATI that is quiet and inexpensive?

Sorry, don't know much about what's out there today.


I want my setup to be nice to my charger in terms of abuse that's why I want ab BOV but do I need one running only 9psi?

I've run up to 14-psig without a BOV, but am now at the point where I'm considering it. With 9-psig, I wouldn't worry about one. The supplied surge valve is sufficient.

Don't confuse a BOV with a surge valve. They operate differently.


I don't want to have to have an MSD box in my engine compartment.

I use one but it's hidden. Yes, it is in my engine compartment but you can't see it. It's located in a void just under and in front of my driver's side headlamps. I don't know if this is a valid spot on a Firebird though.


Is just the MSD Coil for Dual Connector GM Applications that ThunderRacing sells good enough if I run the R43TS plugs....

That would be a good experiment to see if just an aftermarket coil can light the fire on its own without a "box". I can't answer this question because I've never tried it.


set the gap at .035", run the twin IC setup like Willie and mypontiac, a 170 degree thermostat, install a 166 degree primary fan switch, program the PROM to kick on the secondary fan at 180, only run 7-9psi with the factory 9.3:1 compreesion, maybe retard the timing a couple degrees and use 92 octane gas?

With all this, you will NOT need to retard timing.


I also have access to 100 octane pump gas in my town, would that be ok with all of the above if I didn't use the MSD box?

Don't know for sure. I'd just buy the box (as insurance) and tuck it away so no one can see it, like I did. You won't need 100 octane as pump gas will work. I run 91 octane.


Or do I HAVE to use an MSD box and if so, where can I hide the stupid thing? What about other coils that might do the job?

I too, don't like the sight of the bright red MSD box. I use what I believe to be the best coil on the market. It's the Jacobs Ultra Coil -- variable magnetic core, 65k volts! Let's see any of MSD's coils come close!!


Thanks! I have a couple more but this is it for now.

Good, cause my fingers are tired of typing.... hehe.

Also incase you are wondering why I want a D-1SC with a BOV and a cog setup on a 305, it's because when this motor blows I will be building a 400ci miniram motor and 20+ psi

Mine hasn't blown yet and I'm running as fast as I ever care too -- no roll cage in my daily driver!!

Willie

maniacc

As stated earlier, i don't know if you have this option with a firebird, but here's where i put my msdbox...


later
larry

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Willie:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

Would you suggest Accel 26# or 30# injectors then for this setup?

Holly Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...LY%2D512%2D505

Can I get the contact info for Larry @ ASSC Racing so he can set me up with the cog setup, additional bracing, the crank pulley adapter and idlers? Or do I get the cog from ATI (if so what P/N) and just the rest from him?

I guess I won't need a BOV for now with only the 9psi setup. I know there is a difference between a BOV and a Surge Valve but I don't know what the difference is. Can you explain for me?

Is the Jacobs Ultra Coil a replacement coil like the MSD I mentioned? If so do you have the P/N? I think I will try this route first before going to an MSD box because I'd assume it would be good enough for just what I am planning now with my 305. For me to hide and MSD box in my Firebird, it would to go inside the nose I think.

I guess if you are going plenty fast then I will stick with my 305 because I DO NOT want to put a cage in my GTA. I have a 12-pt in my Firehawk and it is just a PITA to get in and out.

Thanks:hail:

Willie

iTrader: (1)

Would you suggest Accel 26# or 30# injectors then for this setup?

I'd go with 30#s.

Holly Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator:

Thanks. Where does it install and how do you eliminate the stock piece?

Can I get the contact info for Larry @ ASSC Racing...

ASSC Racing
847.473.4720
No website.

....so he can set me up with the cog setup, additional bracing, the crank pulley adapter and idlers? Or do I get the cog from ATI (if so what P/N) and just the rest from him?

You'll need to buy the bracing, cog adapter and idlers from Larry as he fabricates these parts. On the cogs themselves, it's up to you. He carries a stock of cogs or you can still order from him and they will be drop shipped from ATI. Or if you prefer, order them directly from ATI. Be forewarned though, this stuff isn't cheap.

There are four cog crank pullies: 63, 73, 77 & 81 teeth. P1/D1SC blower pullies range from 32 to 58 teeth in two-tooth increments.


I guess I won't need a BOV for now with only the 9psi setup. I know there is a difference between a BOV and a Surge Valve but I don't know what the difference is. Can you explain for me?

Certainly. A surge valve is open under vacuum and vents unused blower air out to atmosphere (noise) or to the blower inlet (quiet). Believe me, most of the air the blower produces under normal driving conditions is not used by the engine. This valve closes under boost, so maximum positive pressure can me produced.

A BOV is closed normally closed, both when the engine is in vacuum or boost. This valve should be set to open at a pressure (boost) slightly higher than what you typically run. When the throttle blades close (at shutdown), the pressure spikes momentarily and has nowhere to go except back into the blower. This is termed "compressor surge" and is very bad for the blower. It is at this point when the BOV opens, relieving the pressure.

Is the Jacobs Ultra Coil a replacement coil like the MSD I mentioned? If so do you have the P/N?

Yes. I don't know if Summit still carries Jacobs, but Jegs still does:

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...83&prmenbr=361


I think I will try this route first before going to an MSD box because I'd assume it would be good enough for just what I am planning now with my 305.

Good idea. I for one am curious to know if this will work. Let us know how it turns out.


For me to hide and MSD box in my Firebird, it would to go inside the nose I think.

Take a look from under the car and you might come across voids that could be filled with the box.

I guess if you are going plenty fast then I will stick with my 305 because I DO NOT want to put a cage in my GTA. I have a 12-pt in my Firehawk and it is just a PITA to get in and out.

Right on!!

Willie

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Alright I'll get the Accel 30# injectors.

The Holly AFPR, I don't know where it installs or how to eliminate the factory one but I'll figure it out.

Awesome, I'll contact Larry and I'll see if he can set me up with everything I'll need including the cogs and a belt if he has those as well. It shouldn't cost more than $1K for everything though right? How much would you guess?

Now I want to let my tranny shift at 5300 for now so he will know what cogs I need to be able to make 9psi @ 5300 right?

I'll just use the included ATI surge valve then for now with my psi.

Do you have a pic of where you mounted the Jacobs Ultra Coil?

Thanks again!

Willie

iTrader: (1)

It shouldn't cost more than $1K for everything though right? How much would you guess?

Well, I don't have to guess. I know because I bought the stuff, but I didn't want to give you sticker shock! You'll get a pair of stiffener braces, two idlers, two cogs, and one $160 cog belt, all for the incredibly low price of ~$700....

There is one "minor" item I forgot to mention before. The cog setup does away with one of the ribbed idlers (lowest on bracket). This is necessary because the cog belts are only available in very limited lengths. This is a good thing because it's a shorter belt than the ribbed setup. However, the drawback is that the primary fan motor is right smack dab in the way of the belt. The only clean solution would be to replace both with a twin Flex-a-lite setup. These motors are super thin and comes with a shroud which fits perfectly!! I've got pics if you care to see. So the total price will be around $900 for the cog conversion.


Now I want to let my tranny shift at 5300 for now so he will know what cogs I need to be able to make 9psi @ 5300 right?

I can help here, but I need some baseline figures. Can I assume you haven't purchased the blower kit? If you have, what pulley diameters are you using now, what kind of boost are you making and at what engine rpm? And is it a P1SC or D1SC?


I'll just use the included ATI surge valve then for now with my psi.

Great start.


Do you have a pic of where you mounted the Jacobs Ultra Coil?

Attached. It's just behind my Superfueler injector driver module. They are both painted black to match my engine compartment.

Willie

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Great info, thanks!

I haven't bought a single thing yet, I want to make sure I know everything about it and EXACTLY what I need before I do anything.

On Summit or Jegs, can you please point me to the flex-a-lite setup you use being that we are both in the same climate and everything? They have some that only work up to a certain HP, flow a certain cfm, are a certain diameter, and I don't know which to use Thanks!

It's going to be D-1SC setup w/your twin IC design that mypontiac (Sean) uses from Dave @ Tenacious P. I was going to get the 4.00" pulley but I guess that doesn't matter with the cog setup. I make max HP on the chassis dyno @4800 RPM's and my new Pro-Built tranny is calibrated to shift at 5250 from 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd. I also have a 2400 stall but I will be going to a Vig 3000 soon. I never want to rev my current engine above 5300 and judging by my dyno graph I don't need to anyway. Plus my valves float at 5600-5800.

So which cogs will I need for 9psi at my shift point?

Thanks!

Willie

iTrader: (1)

Glad to help....

I haven't bought a single thing yet, I want to make sure I know everything about it and EXACTLY what I need before I do anything.

Ahhh, a true engineering approach! Very smart in my opinion.


On Summit or Jegs, can you please point me to the flex-a-lite setup you use being that we are both in the same climate and everything? They have some that only work up to a certain HP, flow a certain cfm, are a certain diameter, and I don't know which to use Thanks!

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=FLX%2D220

This fan was Larry's recommendation. It's the only one that fits without major mods. I asked him how they compare to the stock fans to which he said, "They're okay." Well, he doesn't live in the heat like we do and I just installed these two months ago, so the jury is out on their effectiveness. Give it a couple of months, then.... I have a sneaky suspicion that they are not as good as the stock fans because the gauge of the wires it uses. The stock fans use 12-gauge. I believe the Flex-a-lite fans use 14-gauge.


It's going to be D-1SC setup w/your twin IC design that mypontiac (Sean) uses from Dave @ Tenacious P. I was going to get the 4.00" pulley but I guess that doesn't matter with the cog setup.

This answers a previous question you asked. Because the kit includes pullies, make sure to order the cogs with the kit. Have Larry fab all his parts and buy only his stuff from him.


I make max HP on the chassis dyno @4800 RPM's and my new Pro-Built tranny is calibrated to shift at 5250 from 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd.

Gotta love Dana. I bought my tranny from him almost three years ago and she still runs like a champ. My shift points are identical to yours too! (I do like to run it up to 6,000 at the track though.)


I also have a 2400 stall but I will be going to a Vig 3000 soon. I never want to rev my current engine above 5300 and judging by my dyno graph I don't need to anyway. Plus my valves float at 5600-5800.

My 5-disc Vig has about a 4,000 rpm flash stall. If I had to do it all over again, it would be lower.... oh well.


So which cogs will I need for 9psi at my shift point?

What's been done to your 305? Can you e-mail me a mods list? I'll need this info before I start crunching numbers.

Willie

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Thanks, I never buy anything for my cars without thoroughly researching it first and making sure it's the best for my application and a top quality piece.

I'll wait and get your opinion on this fan first then before I buy it. I'll see what you say come August. I found that one but it only said 250 HP w/o A/C and only 200 HP w/ A/C! I didn't think that was good at all. We'll see I guess!

So when I order the kit from Dave, I order the cogs with it instead of pullies or in addition to them? That way I will only need the custom stuff for the cog setup including the correct belt from Larry right?

Agreed, Dana rocks! My tranny is the shiznit and when I ordered he mentioned doing one for you and knowing that you have the SC that sealed it for me

You've got an email with all of my mods so you can help me out with what cogs to order with the kit from Dave.

Thanks!

SATURN5

Technically it isn't the 749 that "sees" boost. The code ($58) is written to handle kpa up to 200 (2 bar MAP). A 730 will work with the same code provided the ECM is rewired to SyTY diagrams and saturated injectors are used. cheers, Bob

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Makes sense but what are "saturated" injectors? I've heard of low impedance and high impedance injectors but not saturated Please explain...

Thanks!

Alex

Willie

iTrader: (1)

I'll wait and get your opinion on this fan first then before I buy it.[/b]

Contact me in June and I'll have an answer for you. BTW, it's not only the fans that determine temperature, but our radiators aren't all that good for high horsepower either.


So when I order the kit from Dave, I order the cogs with it instead of pullies or in addition to them? That way I will only need the custom stuff for the cog setup including the correct belt from Larry right?

Don't buy anything you don't need. Offset the cost of the cogs by NOT getting the ribbed pullies. You might come out close to even.


You've got an email with all of my mods so you can help me out with what cogs to order with the kit from Dave.

Got it. I'll e-mail you back with my results.


Technically, it isn't the 749 that "sees" boost.

Thanks for the correction Bob. I didn't know this.

Willie

SATURN5

low imp= Peak and Hold
high imp=Saturated (or what most GM MPI use)

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Thanks!

So exactly what parts do I "delete" from my ATI package order from Dave? The pullies I know but what about the tensioner and stuff?

SATURN5

n/p...

Just wanted to make it clear since many are thinking of doing the swap and some already have 730's in their cars. So long as the harness is changed to SyTy and a 2 bar MAP is used, most can get by with a 730.

There are a couple issuses with $58 in a 8 cylinder. Some reason, the EGR doesn't function correctly (math problem), so it needs disabled, and it doesn't support CPP and Air injection (IIRC). No big issuses for me but might cause some a headache come test time. cheers, Bob

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

That sucks I'm going to need to be emissions compliant So your're saying I can't use the 749 because the EGR and Air won't register correctly in the ECM? Would I be able to work all this then if I kept the 730 and used a SyTy harness and a 2 bar MAP?

What does SyTy mean and where do I get one of these harnesses or how do I convert my current one if I can? By 2 bar MAP you mean a programming in the bin on the PROM or what? Sorry I'm just getting into PROM burning so I'm a novice I bascially need to do whatever needs to be done to be emissions ready with everything working properly and I am determined to not use the ATI FMU...

Thanks!

Willie

iTrader: (1)

So exactly what parts do I "delete" from my ATI package order from Dave? The pullies I know but what about the tensioner and stuff?

You'll want the basic kit with the following changes:

1) Replace the ribbed crank and blower pullies with cogs,

2) Delete the three idlers (including tensioner idler),

3) Delete the FMU,

4) Consider deleting the in-line fuel pump. You'll be better off with a Walbro 340 and possibly the Boost-a-pump.

Note: ATI's tensioner will be used, but with ASSC's idler, not ATI's.

Willie

SATURN5

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Cool you guys. thanks:hail: :hail: :hail:

Now I just gotta figure out what to do about that egr, ccp, and air problem with the 749 & 8 cyl thing and I'm good it looks like...

mypontiac

Hey Guys how are ya'll!!!

Technically it isn't the 749 that "sees" boost. The code ($58) is written to handle kpa up to 200 (2 bar MAP). A 730 will work with the same code provided the ECM is rewired to SyTY diagrams and saturated injectors are used. cheers, Bob

I've been looking into this.

Yo Willie! Give me a call, email or letter sometimes! Would like to let you know how everything went with the install.

92GTA, as long as you have a speed density set up you can repin your harness for the 730.

Follow this thread:

http://www.speedtoys.com/~bort62/7749/Main.htm

For your custom Prom contact Alvin at : Chips@pcmforless.com

Willie helped set up my car and it is awsome.

Since I have speed density and did not go with the 749 type set up I had to add an FMU. Could not get the fuel ratio set properly without it. Also ATI recommends the inline pump even with the Walbro for the speed density cars.

Willie has an MAP set up and is better able to tune the car with his Superfuler.

I am bringing the car to the dyno tomorrow (Thunder Racing) to see how much HP and Torque she has!

Glad to see you are still with us 92 GTA!!!

Hope you get into the 11's Willie!

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Sean, actually I'm going a totally different route with the whole 730/749 ECM thing. I have a post or 2 going on in the DIY PROM board about it. Also I'm going to be tuning my own prom but thanks for referring me to someone with good references

I've seen allot of people running just the Walbro so I'm just going to go with that for now.

Yeah I'm very lucky I ending up kepping it!

Alex

mypontiac

A few more things to keep in mind if you decide to go with this project. Get better flowing heads. Willie recommended this, but I did not want to go that route. Now I see that my RPM dies at 4500 since I kept the stock heads.

Also, even with my stock heads I am still making 343 RWHP!

You should really consider getting some forged internals. Ask Willie for advise on this. I know he has forged pistons. Otherwise, you need to find out from him.

I would like to try to get more HP out of my 305, but several sources have said that my cast internals won't handle much more HP.

So I need to be content for now.

Do it right the first time!

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Thanks. I plan on AFR 195 heads (remember I'm in CA) when I rebuild my motor and at that time I will of course go with all forged internals and a page of other parts I already have made up. However I'm just going to wait until my stock engine blows under the 10#'s I'll be running right now. When it does blow I plan on some TPI intake mods along with 8.5:1 compression and 20#'s of boost or more with an alky kit All this will give me time to learn how to tune it all correctly and save up more money.

icecold

just my .02--the 190s are better for boosted tpi's because of the larger sealing area on the intake manifold.and their flow numbers are almost identical.my neighbor blew out two intake gaskets with a d1sc at around 8 psi and now runs the same 190's as i do with no problems
pete
ps-i had mine milled to 64cc to match the stock cc but he runs 58cc with no timing retard (seems too close to the edge for me
)

mypontiac

Hi 92 GTA,

Check with Willie. He also had his 190 heads milled to 56 mm. So something there with this. Don't need to fix it if it ain't broken!

Take his advise as much as you can. I used up my nickel with him so I am on my own.

But he did teach me a lot.

I am very happy with my set up and do not regret any part of it.

You should have seen the faces of my new Thunder Racing friends.

Even my mechanic who helped me with the valve train and fuel pump mods could not believe the HP gains.

Go for it my friend.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Thanks guys, I'll definantly check into that.

Yeah Willie has been great helping me out will all of this, if it weren't for his help I'd never even attempt this.

Alex

B4Ctom1

could this be right? AFR has been touting some of the thickest deck mounting areas.

Willie

iTrader: (1)

A note to all: AFR no longer makes heads for a 305. I bought one of the last pair about 15 months ago.

Yes, mine were angle-milled to 56cc, BUT this figure was calculated to yield a 9.2 C.R. with my forged TRW pistons and 0.041" thick GM composite gaskets, P/N 10185054.

Willie

mypontiac

Wouldn't the 64 cc give more flow???

I am not clear on why Willie and Pete's friend went with smaller chambers.

mypontiac

Willie,

How much HP do you expect the stock crank and rods to handle?

I see you are going for some BIG power now.

icecold

the deck surface may be 3/4 inch but the problem lies in the taller intake ports and the lack of sealing area on the 195's compared to the 190's--the 190's have more sealing area therefore a better seal.
i sized this set at 64cc because i want to have room to mill in the future if necessary.and then had the block decked to raise comperssion(blocks are cheap compared with these heads).the neighbor just had his heads milled to raise compression--both ways work but if somthing happens to his heads their shot where mine can still be saved, hopefully.
the cc of the chamber dosent affect flow too much so there is little or no flow difference between a 64cc or a 54cc other than the compression ratio.
i also went to 64cc so in the future i can add more boost and for now will have no detonation with my non intercooled setup
the rule of thumb is you can go 1 full point higher with alumonum heads because of better cooling.and 1 point for fuel injection,computer timing so in theory 11-1 should be possable with good tuning.but why not just run 9.5-1 and more boost.
pete

mypontiac

I see.

What kind of internals does your engine have.

I am investigating some future forged parts. Have not found a source for a forged crank for a 305 yet.

Would really blow some minds to show off a 500 RWHP 305!

icecold

the current setup i'm running is
stock bottom end l98-crank, rods and pistons
arp rodbolts
arp headbolts
arp main studs-2 bolt
holly 52mmtb
asm ltr's
edelbrock hi flo base
fms 30 lb injecters
msd-6btm--accel coil
afr-190's-64cc
1.6 pro magnums
zz4 camshaft
slp headers 1-3/4 and catback
paxton sc 5lb boost--wish it had more
homemade water injection
racetronix h.o fuel pump kit
have yet to visit the track or dyno still burning proms but i think that it will be around 475 rwhp(fingers crossed)if not time for more boost
pete

mypontiac

Hmmmmmm. I don't know bud.

I have pretty similar mods and am getting 343 RWHP. I think you will be under 400 RWHP. Unless those APR heads really work some magic!

But remember with that stock bottom end you may blow it with that much HP anyway.

Here are my mods:

SLP headers and 3" exhaust
Crane Cam
SLP intake runners
SLP air foil
Custom Prom (PCMFORLESS)
Crane roller rockers
TPIS big mouth intake
Accel 23# injectors
GM stock Fuel Pressure Regulator
Racetronix high flow/pressure fuel pump and wiring harness
ATI Booster Pump
New fuel filter
All new ignition items (wires, cap, rotor, etc)
Jacob's Pro Street Ignition
ATI FMU
MSD Boost Timimg Retard Box
ProCharger D-1SC with 10 # Pulley

If you make 400 HP and run it consistently without blowing the stock bottom end let me know. I will be ordering a smaller pulley!!

icecold

i may be optimistic thats very possable if i get 400rwhp thats ok too but if thats the case ill be changing over to the d1sc this fall.just not all that excited abouit the intercooled ducting on a t/a looks like a pain in the a$$.also what boost do you see on your gauge? i see 5-6 at 5500.just because ati says it's a 10 lb pully dosent mean it is.personally i think a stock bottom with arp fasteners will take 500 hp if properly tuned.and not just raced and run wot all the time.plus i've already got 2 more blocks waiting so as murphys law go's i'll never need them because i have them.the only other mods i'll do to my next project are forged pistons and bigger blower the d-1 or d1-sc
but for right now the but-o-meter says this thing is a beast so i'm pretty happy.waiting on my wb-02 to dial her in then off to the dyno
pete

mypontiac

I am getting 8 psi of boost at 3500 RPM. Power dies off at 4600 RPM due to the stock heads and TPI intake system.

I also used a A/F ratio gauge to tune in the WOT for my custom chip made by Alvin at www.pcmforless.com.

Best unit for the $$ is from FJO. $750 will get you a very nice set up. I spoke with the inventor of this unit. He also invented and sells an autopilot device to the military!!!

Goto http://www.alamomotorsports.com/fjo_wideband.html for more info!

Let me know how it goes!!!!

icecold

i already got the wb-o2 bord assembled just waiting on the sensor.been burning chips myself for abouit 2 years cant see paying for it as i enjoy the challange.thinking of swiching to the 58 code and repinning the computer so it can actually see boost.

i know your running more boost but falls off at 4500? mine pulls hard up to 6000 where i have the revlimit set.sure your valves arent floating?as i also got the spring upgrade on my heads and the car dosent feel to fall off as much as the stock heads but i figured it was the better flow but it could have been float before
pete

mypontiac

No that's not it. I did also have the springs on my stock heads changed to heavier ones.

Thunder Racing noted after the dyno run that the drop off was typical for a TPI with stock heads. I also ran across similar discussions on our message board.

So you have more potential for higher HP than I do.

If you repin for the 2 bar map set up, make sure you also get some good size injectors. I was considering doing this, but I just got new injectors and they are too small for this application.

icecold

right now i'm running 30 lb ford motersport injecters that from what i've read should be abouit 33lb's at gm's pressure.i run no fmu and the fuel pressure at 45 psi.i use the racetronix hotwire kit x2 and the gss 340m pump.just to make sure there is plenty of fuel i run a specal duel pump setup with the other pump coming on at 5psi boost.this might be a little overkill but i did it because of the d1 that i feel is in the future.plus if one fp takes a dump i can just swap them and never be stranded.right now i'm looking into another means to start the additional pump.would like to have it so anytime fp go's under the set psi it would automatically come on (not boost refranced) that would seem to be the ultimate setup. with this setup i think that the 30's will be ok
pete

mypontiac

To get some real HP you need to add this power adder!!!

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Nice! Not quite my style though

mypontiac

OK then. So you gettin your groove on????

Less talk, more action!!!!!! :lala: :lala: :lala:

Yarnboy

I'm digging up graves here..Anything new? Dyno pulls, E/T's?

B4Ctom1

wow I don't know which to get; the electric turbo, or the the ram air hood, hmm decisions-decisions...

icecold

i'm with mypontiac the ram air hood is awesome(i've got one sitting in my garage right now) cant wait to get it on.
back to the question so far no dyno time cant seem to get the bugs worked out of the tuning.seems that i made a change midstroke and ended up going for some extra cubes(383)and now my baby isent happy.hopefully the wb-02 will tell me whats up.

pete

mypontiac

Icecold,

Updates please as you get on it!

B4Ctom1

ok I decided, Im getting one of those cool indy daytona turbo cowl hoods with the cool oval holes all the way down the sides of the cowl...

mypontiac

Post some photos when you get it done!