I have a 383 superram installed in a 95 chevy truck with paxton SN2000 I was making some good HP then installed a dodge cummins intercooler and I am down at least 50 HP the air is much cooler going into the intake but is there somthing I am missing? I thought the intercooler was going to add a bunch of power
Thanks for any help

 

Cooler air is denser air... which means more fuel to maintain the same AFR as before.

This may be part of your loos in power.

Did you loose any boost after installing the intercooler?

 

my o2 sensor is reading 78 at wot and not sure if I lost any boost my boost gauge is a POS it goes from 0-60 PSI so it hardly moves under boost but seems to move about the same

 

a guy with a mustang just had the same thing happen with his novi2000 and a powerstroke intercooler. Someone told me a stock powerstroke intercooler can pass 1200 hp on a powerstroke.

 

My guess is that you lost a lot of boost putting that big intercooler on, you will need to swap pulleys on your supercharger to compensate. Does your boost gauge read any lower?

 

curious of that myself

 

ok I will try my smaller pully and see if it helps and let you guys know

 

Don't know about you guys, but 78mv on the oxygen sensor at WOT indicates there is lean condition. Assuming there are no leaks before the intercooler, I would suggest correcting the O2 reading before considering anything else. That particular intercooler should be more than capable of supporting the engine and blower. The only conclusion I can draw from the information that we've been given is that the intercooler is allowing for a cooler air charge and that the motor needs more fuel to keep up. Just my .2c.

 

I would like to point out good instrumentation (i.e. boost gauge, wide-band O2 gauge, and fuel pressure gauge) are mandatory to get the best tune and the most out of your ride. If you don't have them, GET THEM!!!!!!

 

ok I will try adding more fuel befor the smaller pully
does anybody have a bin file I could use as a base that is set up for a supercharged setup then I could work with it. I am running off a stock one now and I would also like to compare tables

 

Are you using an FMU? What computer are you using? Are you MassAirFlow or SpeedDensity? The more info the better!!!

 

I am using a 12-1 fmu with speed density 1227730 ecm 30# injectors fuel presure is at 49 psi with walbro pump 58 mm TB superram upper and lower ported polished 64cc trickflow heads 8.5-1 comp and the cam is comp roller with lift in .510 ex .510 duration is 220 in 230 ex with 114* lobe seperation
need more info let me know
Thanks everyone who gives their thoughts

 

There is an additional option to your FMU, and frankly a better one, but I'm biased . You can use different code for boost.

You can rewire the ECM, to SyTy 749 style. ~6 wires need their respective positions changed. Then using a bin file of $58 code, change knumcyl to 8 and disable the EGR. Load that into your prom. Add a 2 bar MAP sensor from a Turbo Sunbird or Typhoon,Syclone completes the swap. No FMU needed. The code now controls your fuel under boost..

BW

 

I gave that a try befor I broke my old crank but I was doing somthing wrong I did all the wiring 2 bar map and used the 58 code starting at 4000 with the pocket programmer but could never get my scan tool to read like somthing was hooked up or programmed wrong if I could get it to work I would rather go with that code

 

When you said your O2 was reading 78 were you meaning 780mV or 78mV? How old is your O2 sensor? Is your FMU bleed valve adjusted for the richest setting? If not, turn it all the way up and slowly back down until you obtain 800-950 mV at WOT. If so, you'll need to add fuel another way. Obviously turning up the fuel pressure is a bad idea because you'll run too rich at idle and part throttle. You can always order an FMU recalibration kit. What are you BLMs? Are they between 123-133 at most load values? If so your calibrations are close enough and the only option you have is to add fuel through the PE vs. RPM table or MAP equivalent. I would try all of this before swapping over to the TY/SY code. Not that its difficult to do, but why complicate your existing problem. Do the swap if your certain you can't fix the problem any other way. By the way if your emissions conscious the 749 lacks EGR control. So there are some advantages to sticking with the 730 code.

 

I am not sure I have an OTC 4000 scanner and it just reads .78 my O2 is about a year old and the FMU is set all the way rich I turned up the FPR and it runs 108 BLM until about 1400 RPMs then goes to around 130-135 around 2000-2200 I would like to get the bugs worked out somewhat then go to the Sy/Ty code as emissions are not a problem for me