I am looking to get roughly 500HP out of a turbo setup. The block is a 350 1 peice RMC, with 2 bolt mains. The internals are as follows: Balanced Eagle kit with 4340 crank, H beam rods, SRP pistons. Will the block be able to take this? Is there anything I can do to strengthen it?

 

You could use studs instead of the stock bolts for your main bearing caps. The proper way to do that, is to have them installed and have it align bored that way with the proper bore is attained using the studs vs. the bolts.

Other than that, just make sure you gap the rings wider per the manufacturers recommendations for forced induction applications.

The block should be strong enough if you are only planning on running 500-650ish hp.

Happy spooling!

 

Thanks Guido. Fix the head gasket!

I have heard of having the block machined for splayed caps... would that be worthwhile (how expensive)? What about aftermarket caps (assuming they exist for SB chevy's) Or would that be over kill for an already competant block?

I have the block but to rotating assy. Should I buy the rot. assy. first and then have the block machined giving them the parts, or should I get the block machined then buy and install the bits? The place I plan on buying the parts from says that it is a matched asssy... so in my eyes I can get the block done, spec the parts (.030 over pistons, .010 over bearings that sort of thing) and install it with no hassles.

 

It doesnt matter if you know exactly what it needs. My first 406 I bought my rotating assy from the people who machined the block. it wasnt even a question. My second one, I took them my rotating assembly and told them to make the block work with these parts.

You can purchase splayed caps from callies and oliver I think. I would think for the power you want to make though, that stock would be fine.

I removed my old headgaskets last night and everything looked good. tonight Im cleaning and putting the new ones down.

 

Ok, thats what I figured with the caps, just wanted to make sure.

What machining is generally necessary? This is what I can think of:
-Boil/clean the block ( I will be able to remove the freeze plugs and cam bearings)
-Bore/hone cylinders
-Stud the main bearing bolt holes
-Align hone the crank journals (only because of the studs correct?)

 

I've destroyed 2-bolt main caps pushing 480 hp at the crank--with ARP main studs. If the block is an aftermarket piece you should be fine, but if its stock I would--at the very least--look for a 4-bolt main block. If thats not enough use the Milodon 2-bolt to 4-bolt splayed main caps. The weakest link In the previously mentioned block WAS the main caps, when one of them went south it took out half of the rotating assembly and demolished the Lunati crank I was using. Just my .2c. Good luck in your build up.

 

mustnags have suck *** block webbing, I see lots of them with longevity even making 500 RW hp with nitrous, S-trims etc. and some do have girdles but alot dont. Are we weaker than fords? I think not.

 

But if you spent $3000 dollars on a rotating assembly, would YOU use a 2-bolt block. The price difference is insignificant, so why would you even take the chance. I'm not suggesting that all 2-bolts will fail at the aforementioned power level, just that I have seen failures that I hope other people don't duplicate.