I'm fabbing a dry kit up out of various parts i've been able to scrounge up from people over the past year, and I was wondering where should i mount my nitrous jet? Should it be before the MAF or after it? I have a 88 Formula 350 so I'm assuming i would have to fab up a custom air intake to relocate the MAF to right in front of the throttle body, if I had to mount the jet in front of the MAF. Any input you guys could give me would be much appreciated. thanks alot, Chris.

 

Don't put the Nitrous too close to the maf. I blew through mine and that was with a kit where the insutrctions said to put it 6" in front of the MAF aimed at the MAF. Needless to say it ripped right through the heated wire.

I decided to put it in front of the TB and add a NOS pressure regulater to increase fuel pressure through the AFPR.

 

dont try to build a home made dry kit, better yet just pass on the home made kit all together. If you must home make one then consider wet atleast. there is a guy selling NX stuff by a different name on Ebay super cheap now, the nozzles, jets selenoids everything for a EFI wet kit. see his stuff HERE

 

There are 4th gen dry kits that mount the N2O nozzle in front of the maf and work on the idea that the cooling effect from the N2O will basically force the PCM to go as rich as it can. I used to call that setup the death bag of nitrous, because most of the time it would work, but the one time it doesn’t you’re carrying your engine home in a bucket.

I have no idea what would happen if you tried it on a 3rd gen maf car, but no matter what, the 165 ecm and the maf that is used is pretty much worthless someplace past the 300-350 hp range so if you’re going to spray enough N2O to make more then that I’m sure it won’t work (FWIW, my stock ’87 L98 car, rated at 225hp from the factory has run a 13.5@100mph at 3710lbs, which works out to a little over 290hp. Considering most 305tpi cars aren’t rated much lower and I’ve run almost similar times in them, I really doubt that you’ve got much room there).

Second, a home made dry setup (with the N2O pressurizing the back of the fpr for additional fuel) is just asking for trouble, especially considering how limited the fuel system on these things is. Why not just save yourself the future frustration and rebuilds and go wet?

 

yeah even with good fuel system, fuel quality, and injectors I couldnt get more than 75 hp dry using the 5115 kit without having some sort of knock. (knock = very bad)

 

Thanks alot guys, for all your input. I am definitely sold on the wet shot.

 

before you buy nitrous stuff check out what I found on ebay this guy has very affordable "NX type" stuff for sale new.

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=catdaddy1234

 

I plumbed my wet system into the MAF sensor..YES INTO IT>>>

I drilled the priper sized hold on the ENGINE SIDE of the MAF sensor and aimed the Nitrous Express Shark nozzle towards the throttle body/engine. There is just enough room to do it and it worked great. If you drill the correct size hole, the shark nozzle threads right into it nicely and you can add a sealant just in case you're worried about leakage or the nozzle blowing out of the hole..haha Goodluck man!

 

And yeah..I don't reccomend a dry kit on a thirdgen

A. Because that tiny wire in the MAF already has enough of a chore not breaking with normal air being sucked into an engine, let alone being shot with freezing nitrous at a high pressure. Breaking or stressing that wire is a bad idea and costly also when it breaks.

B. I don't trust an old computer like ours to work that hard with fuel control, etc...lol

 

Dry kits for our cars are just fine as long as you use a good pump and an pressure sensitive regulator,our ecms "will not" work like the LT1 MAF dry kiy - the old 165 is way too slow,the mixture has already been though the exhaust before the ecm starts to compensate.