hi me and my brother got this kit from a co worker of mine that had it on a 69 chevelle 10 years ago... we got it for 300 bucks
the setup is for a carburated car... but we are using it for my brothers GTA..... i dont know what brand is the manifold or the kit but the turbo is a TO4

 

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Nice, but I have a feeling with that manifold the turbo would sit to high in the bay. and you couldnt get a hood on it.

 

have them sticking thru like that one twin turbo sbc grandnational

 

um i was thinking of that.. we have to test fit it on the car i hope it clears the hood cause we want the stock look on the car

 

Might be an old Gale Banks kit. $300 is a steal!!

 

The Gale Banks kit had the turbos almost directly above the 1/2 cylinders, and had the wastegate openings pointed forward, inline with the exhaust ports.

Andris, with the gale banks turbo manifolds

 

From what I have run across that looks like an old accell kit. I don't think it will clear in a third gen. It is draw through and is pretty old tech. But then for 300 bucks I would make it fit

 

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That's actually a fairly common old accel kit… not really designed for that much power and not worth that much. I suppose with a bigger turbo, but I'm not sure where you'll find a large enough spread bore carb to feed it with a larger turbo.

FWIW, height wise it will fit… I've posted these pics before but this just barely fit under the hood of my formula (which has a lower hoodline then most camaros…):

 

i dont want to use a carb, we wanna go fuel injected, but with the turbo sitting like that it won't clear the TPI plenum or runners,
the setup is intended for carb, so i figured custom fabricate a thick plate to go between the manifold and the turbo, turn the turbo with the exhaust outlet facing to the firewall

we wanna test fitted with the 305, but we got 4 bolt main 350 that we going to put in the car

 

its a great kit for a low compression stock motor. I know a guy with two of those kits (I havent seen him around for a while) he put one on his el camino with a 78 truck 350 and it made more power than his slushy mushy tires suspension and tranny could put to the ground, we are talking instant smoke show. I recommend staying carbed as well.

 

You could flip the turbo for more clearance.

 

How much boost would a 4bolt main 350 take???? I think that's a low compression engine. Don't know what exactly is. It was off a truck and was a TBI

 

yeah, then his exhuast would go route right into his intake....YEAH!

 

Sweet! Then we could add the heat to the intake air charge to increase boost!

Every hear of a mandrel bend. It would be tighter than the compressor housing plus the air inlet filter.

And one could wrap the exhaust with thermal wrap.

Anything else U wanna shoot down?

:lala:

 

the layout you show originally works fine, its how it was designed with a regular intake and I think a engine like that could take 6 pounds ok and 9 pounds possibly.

 

The problem with the truck motor is that it has cast pistons. These really won't tolerate much in the way of increased heat and cylinder pressure, and when they do fail it will be catastrophic.

Another problem will be the crank, which is just plain old cast iron. I highly recommend upgrading to a forged crank. One from Eagle won't set you back too bad, and I've had good luck with their products.

The block should be good up to about 650-700 horses, so if it makes 1HP/CID without the turbo it could easily withstand another 300-350 HP worth of boost, which by my calculations would be about 11-14 psi.

At these boost levels block prep is crucial. Stud the mains and heads. Grind out all casting flash, and have the block meticulously machined.

I would route the compressor ducting through a front mounted intercooler, and then back into the plenum. This will reduce turbo lag, and boost power significantly.

 

if they fail it will be catistrophic, but many factory boosted engines use cast pistons. Cast pistons can take a 100-150 shot of nitrous could surely survive the abuse of 6 pounds boost. As with any cast piston is suseptible to detonation. Avoid detonation through careful timing and fuel quality and it will last a very long time.

many members here are running the exact same crank (and cast pistons) in bolt on blower and nitrous kits with rare incidence of failure, no problem here either. Eagles are nice but they are no longer the leader in value, CAT engine racing products available from many good "Ebay stores" sellers with over a thousand great feedbacks. The parts are not usually listed as being "CAT" to help them avoid competition or minimum price structure set by CAT

making 11-14 psi of boost with this kit is likely a pipe dream, not only is it only a T4 variant but its a very old type and technology of a T4. Thats not to say its bad. Im just suggesting that this kit you have is bad, it was built and sold to thousands of customers. it never took off due to the more desirable proliferation of little roots blowers out there in the 70's.

you definitely need to decide what kind of power you want out of this kit. I feel 350 to 400 with a bunch of torque would be safe with the engine in its current build if it is in good health.

if you want to run an intercooler that would be cool and all but remember this kit was designed to draw through a carb and that would preclude the use of a intercooler due to fuel suspension problems. I still suggest trying it the way the manufacturer intended. Just to see how it works out. I think you will be happy. keep the timing down and the octane up and see how you like it.

 

This intake/carb/turbo adapter is a good reason to avoid using a carb. The two round plates inside the adapter are open when there is no boost so that the turbo is bypassed. When there is sufficient boost to close the round plates, then all the air/fuel goes into the the compressor inlet.

A simpler plumbing idea would be to route the turbo outlet to the throttle housing of the fuel injection manifold.


And keep the 305 in the car as a lab rat and test away!

 

I like that idea if it all fits under the hood. there would even be the ability to route a intercooler in there eventually and to put the MAF in line as well so that a major electronics overhaul wouldnt be needed imediately. Just toss an FMU and inline additional pump in the equation and it would be fine for the fueling. the big deal here would be the aftermarket intake, fuelrails, and throttle body. they get expensive fast. If this were a TBI car it would be kinda cool to run a regular carb intake and the throttle body on a carb plate with an FMU for fuel duties.

 

I didn't realize how dated this technology was. All turbos pretty much look the same until you get up close to them or take a look at the wheels. A modern T4, especially a T3/T4 hybrid is more than capable of making 11+ psi. This older technology won't make anywhere near that.

I would still properly fortify the bottom end with a forged crank and pistons. If you avoid detonation you will be fine with a lot less insurance and get away wtih cast pistons and a cast crank. This is going to be a custom setup, and during tuning you may encounter detonation at some point. It won't have to rattle for long before something breaks, and then the motor will be junk. Plus, if you aren't happy with the power level all it will take is a pair of modern turbos that will bolt to the flanges you already have. Then the sky will be the limit in terms of boost and power.

Basically you will have to junk that intake plate and fabricate everything from the turbos to the throttle body. You will also have to fabricate a lot of exhaust piping too. Don't forget a wasetgate and a blow off valve to keep from damaging the turbos.

They key to the rest of the package is RPM range and airflow. This will determine cam, head, and intake requirements.

 

Um, T3/T04 designs date back to the 70's at least. Most of the Txx turbos are just T04 turbine sides with an assortment of newer and/or different frame compressors mated to the front of them (which can be from almost anything, they can be garret, Mitsubishi, holset, switzer… hybrids, they usually won't tell you where they're getting their parts from). If you want to get into 90's technology you need to be looking at some of the Holset H series turbos and similar mitsu and switzer stuff, and holset HX series/Garret GT series to see late 90's tech (Garret claims that the GT's are newer technology then that but I haven't really seen anything in them that the '90's holsets and similar stuff doesn't have).

 

I realize that the T3/T4 design is old, but the newer ones are still using modern technology like computer designed wheels and better compressor housings. These units are more than capable of big boost numbers when paired with the right wastegate.

The Mitsubishi built units tend to be high quality and last a long time. They are OEM on a lot of cars new and old. My Subaru runs a Mitsubishi built TD04, which is good to about 350HP on the stock 2.0 (when properly modified obviously, as the stock car only makes 227).

If you want serious power look into the G-series like the 18 and 20G. IHI also makes some turbos that will make big power. The secret is to match the airflow to your engine size.