THE PROBLEM
I have 86 tpi 305 stock block. I can slap on turbos but I think it will not run safe / reliable without other changes.
THE QUESTION (IN SHORT FORM)
What changes should be made to make car run good?
THE GOAL
To make it cheap, faster, reliable and as easy as possible.
THE EASY TURBO INSTALL
I have 2 1980's thunderbird 2.3 turbos to use. I also can modify my the stock exhaust manifolds to have the turbos bolt on. I showed a friend of mine the picture below and he said he can easily modify my exhaust manifolds like that. (HE welds for a living). I think I will be able to squeeze em in with some adjustments. It should be easy enough to hook up oil lines to cool the turbos and route the airflow to my throttlebody. This is stuff I can do so far... Problem is that it would require turbo tune-up changes that I have not figured out. I have the books like TURBOCHARGERS by Hugh MacInnes but am not good on the theory stuff, too much technical stuff gives me a headache.
The turbos, labor and welding will cost me 0$! It only looks like it will take a few $ in hardware to try it.
I THINK I CAN I THINK I CAN I THINK I CAN

 

No, that is not my motor. I have not done the job yet, but I think it can be done!

 

I'd say go for it. Its similar to what I'm currently working on (and meticulously writing up for a future mega-post).

You will definitely need to get some different injectors, and a way to control the engine under boost: a fmu, extra injectors, 749 ecm, or aftermarket engine management. Possibly fuel system upgrades.

as far as cheap, fast and reliable; you can only pick two of those. . .

 

You can use the 1227165 ECM with 808 code and a 2-bar MAP sensor.

 

Show him the Rest of the pictures also...

I ceramic Coated these for Kenton. The owner of the car
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...onHurst89IROC/

 

ya see thats the problem right there. pick any two. all three of those dont come in a package.

 

Thanks for the rest of the exhaust pics! Looks like my major challenge is finding the room to put it in. I will try and play around with a length of old exhaust pipe the best place for it. Keeping the a/c unit does not seem possible yet, but ill try and find a way. It might fit witg a/c f it is acceptable to run a short length of exhaust pipr fron the manifold to the turbo, then I could place the turbos by or in the evap canister and battery wells.
Time to get out the old tape measure. Let me take the word EASY out of my goal, that was an optimistic statment. I will stick with I think I can.

I thought of something:
Will I be able to keep the MAF or will I need to switch to SD?

 

the easy part is possible if you dont mind no accessories or a highly modified version of them...

 

Wouldnt cost too much if welding is free. That means your fabbing is cut down tremendously. If you dont run an intercooler you could just run like 7-8lbs of boost. Upgrade fuel and I'm not sure with Chevy's on ECM's so listen to those guys. But could be done for a couple hundred plus the chip.

 

Ditch the MAF.. Either run the 808 code with a 2 bar MAP on your 165 ECM or switch to a 730/749 ECM and run $58 code. Note the 730 ECM requires SAT type injectors. BW

 

another good link for you.

http://www.speedtoys.com/~bort62/7749/Main.htm

 

i want more info on this! i have a 165 ecm.. with MAF.. how do i ditch the maf???

the power adder forum is about the only forum i read on here, and i've read almost every post made in the last 6 months, and this is the first ive heard of using a 165 with 808 code

 

808 is Aussie code for the 165. Search the DIY Prom forum for Joby,Tomcat and 808. BW

 

AHHHHH, I like the website link TPI383! I can almost understand all of it! That gives me a better idea of things that will need to change.
I think I found room for the turbos and still keep all my original accesories like a/c. I think the picture below will work. Please excuse the poor artwork, I am much better at working on cars than drawing.
There is room up front, I think. I will have to remove the huge wiper fluid tank, old air filter housing, move back the charcoal canister and maybe relocate the battery. My car has no smog pump anymore so that is not in the way.
Question: Can I have the turbos mounted sideways where the air filter is on top and the used exhaust is on the bottom?
I think this setup might realy work, any ideas or comments would be appreciated!

 

Nope, can't mount them sideways like you were saying.

The bearings won't oil that way.

 

Thats exactly what I was thinking. The only turbos designed for that type of mounting are the self-lubricating aerochargers often used on street bikes- they are expensive and hard to find.

Those are my manifolds you have pictured, and I deleted the A/C to make things fit. I converted my A/C evaporator box to a non-AC type to make more room for the RH downpipe. The LH down-pipe is pinched between the manifold and the steering shaft, but is not too much of a concern (see the pic below).

As far as the fuel/spark control, I used the factory ECM in my 89 IROC 5.7 TPI with SVO 24# injectors and a Vortec SFMU to raise fuel pressure under boost. I also have a Vortec 50/70 fuel pump in-line to help make sure there is enough fuel (however I think the stock pump in good condition may be adequate- test for your application). I blow thru the stock MAF sensor, but I had some problems with the hose connections blowing off if I ran the boost up over 10psi (you cannot make the clamps too tight due to the plastic housing- I fixed my problem by building a brace to tie the piping together). I use an MSD BTM to retard the timing under boost, with the base timing set to +4°.

Hope this info helps- good luck with your set-up.

 

Here is the pic of the LH down pipe. You can sort of see how the pipe is pinched to fit. It was a bit of a challenge to get the pipe to fit between the manifold and the steering shaft.

 

Keep an eye on the power adder forum if you are interested in seeing more of my set-up. I have the engine out now for a complete restoration of my car, and plan to assemble the entire turbo system with the engine on the stand- exhaust, intercoolers, and all. Should look pretty cool.

 

89jy-

Is there a post around that outlines the parts you used on that setup and any results (times or hp/tq results) you got with it?

 

OK, thanks, ill have to scrap that idea. Here is another one for the same place but a little different setup. This is supposed to be a side view. Yhe only problem I can see so far is that the exhaust pipe might have to be routed under the engine crossmember, that could = ground clearwnce problems. Im glad is sending ideas and suggestions, keep em coming please!

 

I was having a little too much fun trying to write with opposite hand and mouse lol.If you mount the turbo's on the otherside of the radiator then dont mind my big *** radiator picture I've yet to see a twin turbo 3rd gen engine bay so I cant comment on what needs to be moved to fixed. But I'm sure you'll need to hack up the engine bay a little unless you are not running and intercooler and dumping the exhaust.

 

You should retard timing during boost.

If you keep the MAF then the ECM does not know boost, only air-flow. Fuel is not a problem but you need some boost retard box for the spark timing. ( MSD ? )

If you convert to a 2-bar MAP then you can tune both fuel and timing with the chip and you don't need the retard box.

 

If you want more info on how I did my TT set-up on my 89 you can use the following address. If you still have any questions, I will be happy to help.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=216803

 

Or just convert to blow through carb setup and never look back

Hehe jk, I'm learning this fuel injected turbo concept too, I'll stop being so nieve

 

will someone make a tech article on how to put a turbo on a thirdgen........i got that you need a turbo, modify your exhaust manifold, run a pipe from the turbo to the intake, and then run a pipe from the turbo to the actual exhaust. what else is needed, i remember seeing something about oil lines?????