GTSR

I have a new 350 4 bolt main engine kit from PAW. It has World S/R heads, forged internals (8.5:1 cr), and a Powermax 2032 cam (specs below). I'll be using the stock exhaust manifolds until I decide on which headers to get.

The Procharger is a P-1SC at 9lbs of boost. I will be using the FMU that came with the kit.

What would be a good size injector that would work well with the FMU. I have everything needed to make custom chips so changing the fuel injector constant isn't a problem.

Any help appreciated.

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Crane Cams Powermax 2032; part# 104224

adv. duration______270 int. 276 exh.
duration @ 0.050___214 int. 220 exh.
gross lift__________.452 int. .465 exh.
lobe separation____112

stevedave454

why would you use bigger injectors and an FMU? an FMU is a way around (the cost of) having to burn a custom chip for bigger injectors, and buying the injectors, usually you use stock injectos, 22lbs or 24 lbs this biggest you can use with stock chip. if your gonna go through the trouble of burning a new chip, and buying new injectors, just sell the FMU to help pay for your injectors.... BTW if you decide you do want to sell it shoot me an email

Raiden

from what I remember, the chevy injectors go static at about 80psi and the fmu can cause the fuel psi to go up to 100psi. However, the ford svo 24lb injectors for some reason can hanlde the extra fuel psi. Can't rember where I read that, and I' dead tired. but, the svo's are good injectors as teh accell's are too.

SATURN5

Ditch the midevil FMU, repin your harness as used in a SyTy and run $58 code in your bin.. Add a set of 35-42 lb Saturated type injectors and go.. See the tech articles for a write up on this swap. BW

B4Ctom1

yes but saturn5 that makes it sound like if he does that he will be ok to drive without tuning. Even if a he happens to get everything needed to burn. it doesnt burn itself. There is a big problem with the DIY prom area and that is after you get the equipment there is a huge gap between the people that are just getting started and those already using that area. Using the search button doesnt always help because certain subjects have beaten to death on some odd tangent that doesnt even refer to your specific problem. Just the learning curve for the terminology is insane. Without a doubt your suggestion is the best method ($58 and 749) but when steering people that way make sure they know that they need to have all the equipment to scan including a laptop with a serial port, the cable the software and the hardware listed in traxions article. Heaven help them if they cant get thier laptop to link with the car (I had to try 3 laptops before I found one that would scan. ) Even though I have had the equipment now for a month and even went to the track once I am barely even close to having this thing tuned and that is without a blower using the stock 730 ECM.

So please when you make the suggestion to ditch the FMU please suggest that the person look into learning how to do the DIY prom burning. FMU's are archaic and closer to a carburator than EFI but they got the job done before the invention of the $58 code. Please read this article which describes how to o the conversion. As to integrating the $58 code into a bin. Im sure whether the $58 code is already a bin or if it is a ECU file to modify a syty bin with. Mostly because it seems that tuner cat is what everyone else is using and I only have tuner pro (which is what I could afford right now). Here is the article:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...nversion.shtml

I guess what Im saying is that if all a person had to do was put this $58 or syty bin onto a chip put it into a 749 ecm and just go in one afternoon (I wish) then FMU's would be non existent.

GTSR

I know the best route would be to run it with a totally custom chip and the SyTy conversion, but I don't have much experience burning chips. My scanning only consists of an AutoXray 3000 (no laptop yet) so my tuning capabilities are limited. Since my FMU is already paid for this way I only need to buy injectors--I'm saving up for a quality paint job.

I definately would change over once I feel I have a better grasp on custom tuning and have better equipment. I am going to be running it without the supercharger till I break in the engine and hopefully pass emissions--so I don't want to be running 42lb injectors. This way I can tune it safely in -hopefully- one dyno session to be sure I'm not running way rich or too lean up top.

I'm not one to race from stoplight to stoplight or run at the track so I spend little time in the upper rpms. I just need it reasonably well tuned to keep from blowing up when I do romp on it.

Thanks for the replies!

SATURN5

Looking over his new engine, with from what I gather is a 91 SD car, he is gong to need to tune the chip anyways.. He can either use the FMU and tune the 730, or lose the FMU, repin, add a 2 bar MAP and load $58 into the 730, and then tune. Either way its going to need it.. might as well start with using the best mask/code. So long as you use saturated injectors, you can keep the 730. For someone thats read up on doing the swap, should be able to do it, and have it at least driveable in a weekend. In fact, if you use ~30 lb injectors, the stock bin is fairly close. It's not perfect, but should for most cases usable.

If this was a MAF car, just run the FMU. The MAF typically adapts better than SD, which would make tuning the chip a lesser priority. Even then I'd look into running the 808 code..

Yes, I guess I'm assuming GTSR has at least a general idea of whats involved in burning a chip. His posting above says he at least has that clue and is looking into getting what he needs. Either way you (GTSR) decide to go, at some point, your going to need to adjust the chip.. I figured that you'd might be interested in swapping masks since your ride appears to be a SD.

cheers, BW