I'll sum it up-

engine was freshened up-rings, bearings, gaskets, resurfaced block
heads were race ported, polished, and flowed to take advantage of the blower
intake was converted from 4 barrel carb to EFI
new blower cam-solid roller
new throttle body-1550 CFM, progressive linkage
new oil pan designed for road racing, 7 qt
new oil cooler, -10 AN braided steel hose
new air/oil separator -12 line
new dual radiator fans-flow 2780 CFM, 25 amps (SPAL)
new electric water pump-60+ GPM @ 12 volts, 11 amp continuous duty-5500 hr life
new Accel DFI version 7.0 windows based sequential fire fuel injection system
new blower bracket and 10 rib belt system w/spring loaded tensioner (doesn't fit, but will when the CNC lathe is done)
new plugs, wires, etc.
new braided lines for all fluids-
new chrome alternator- one wire 140 amp
new polished power steering pump
new serpentine belt drive system with polished billet alum brackets
new clutch-McLeod Street Twin

Here are some shots:







I am beat-back at it tonight-trying to make Power Tour...doesn't look good.

 

what kind of blower cam?

I was looking at this one:

Erson - E119830 solid roller 230°/238° @.050, 270°/278° ADV, .555"/.555” (.592”/.592” w/1.6’s) LIFT, 112° LC, 4° ADV

for my procharged 352 (destroked 400)

 

Comp off the shelf solid roller

300/308 .575/.575 114 LSA

12-704-8 grind

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=12-704-8

 

I have a similar crane hy-roll version of that in my 412:

Crane Hyd roller # 119681 240/248 @ .050, 306/314 advertised, .558” ( .595" lift with my 1.6's) 114 lobe sep

It is wrong for my N/A, 9.9:1, super ram motor. But I be it would be pretty nice for a more race oriented blower, turbo, or nitrous car. Maybe I will just leave it in for a while and figure out what I am going to do with the car.

 

Looks good! how many Lbs are you planning on running? I am planning 12-14PSI on my 224/224 114 comp hyd roller grind.

You need to sell the car to ME tom, thats what your planning on doing you just dont realize it.

 

That’s a pretty good sized stick, what are you hunting? What kind of performance are you shooting for?

As a side note, how did I get a replied to notice emailed to me if I haven’t seen the thread before?

 

I am thinking that with a 2.5 blower pulley, and a 7 inch crank pulley, I should get to 15 lbs.-whatever it will hold without slipping the 10 rib belt.

Actually, the stick is much smaller than I was running, but I needed something soon when the motor was going together. I am hunting twin turbo and supercharged Vipers, or anything else that threatens.....I am buidling it to compete in open road racing events, and exceed 160 in the standing 1/2 mile. Any suggestions?

 

What do various stock f-body cars do in the 1/2 mile?

 

Huh, I’m afraid to ask what the “bigger stick” was like.

Twin turbo vipers… OK… I guess that I’d need a little more info to tell exactly how big a stick your playing with and what your goals are for it. I don’t know that I would have chosen a blower to mess around in those circles, but it could work.

Looking at your parts list, you either spent a lot of money on a really nice but unnecessary TB or those heads are some 14, 18 or SB2 heads with some serious work done to them.

I like the cam, I would like it better if it used some of comp’s “max torque” solid or SR lobes (you could get the same .050, more lift and a shorter duration… take a little more advantage of the boost without moving yoru power band).

Which electric water pump? That’s a pretty surprising choice for the application, good luck there, tell us how it goes. I know a few people that were not happy with the larger CSI and Metz… units in RR type situations with relatively mild engines.

The spring tensioner is a good idea, especially for that sort of use. We’ve built an assortment of them ranging from 6-10 ribs starting with some of the ford truck tensioners that we picked up for $3/lb at the scrap yard. You may have to mess around with the spring tension/idler pulley placement/belt wrap before this thing is happy with enough blower to have real fun on this combination.

Fans… well, what difference does it really make, as long as they don’t restrict flow at speed. Lately we’ve been adapting assorted ford midsize and large car fans to whatever we need. There’s a few in the Mark VIII range that are not as thick as the Mark VIII and they’re cheap in the JY. The biggest problem with them is that they have start up currents in the >70A requiring a little thinking WRT to power.

Why 1 wire alternator? I’ve never been overly impressed with them for anything but appearances. Lately I’ve been really impressed with the ford 3G alternators (a lot of ford parts making my list, but hell, what do I care, I’ll have Honda parts on my formula within a couple of weeks ;-) ). Internal fans, the HD built in regulators are killer parts seem to start charging sooner and be way more tolerant of high rpm’s, relatively compact and easy to adapt to applications, and the 130A ones are dead common.

Well, a 300hp 4th gen will top out somewhere between 155 and 165, 3rd gen TA’s (about as low a CD as you can go) running mid/high 13’s will top out in the 145-150 range. In either case you’ll take a few miles to “top out” (I’ve got pictures of the speedo pegged in my 4th gen, and years ago I got pulled over going 148 in my ’83 TA). I’m hoping some day soon I’ll get a chance to have some fun doing the landspeed stuff someplace like Maxton…

 

It was a REED custom 296/306 .658/.671 114 LS

Well, I didn't choose the competition, but I can't ignore them. Rumor has it that there is a couple of cars that have done 160 in the 1/2 already this year. Street tires, etc. I already had the blower, so I will try to make it work-I can use up to 103 octane fuel.

The reason I got the progressive linkage TB was so that I could roll into the throttle coming out of corners without spinning the tires so much-the old mono blade was more of an on/off switch-and the 1550 CFM was the same price as the smaller one. I also think the SVIC JR. intake will breath better than the old Stealth Ram-more usable RPM range also. The heads are CFM ported for the blower 23 degree Dart Pro 1's. High flow exhaust ports.

If this cam doesn't make the power I think it should, I'll get a new one.

CSI-I hadn't heard anything bad about them-I'll watch the temps.

Right-the cog pulley set up was not really designed for shifting gears hundreds of times-You are dead correct-the Vortech unit is a Ford tensioner-wish I knew that BEFORE I installed it. The belt right now does hit itself, so we are looking for a new location on the bracket for it. This has been a royal PITA! I have a new CNC 1/2 plate bracket almost completed that allows some of the carb components to be used (tensioner) with the old S trim kit. Now to machine a crank pulley spacer the correct width...

Fans… I am using the BeCool unit that matches the radiator-they are Spal fans.

You called it-wanted to clean things up a bit. Thanks for the thoughts.

 

Well, then build it to go 155 or so in the Ľ (about 1000-1100bhp in a 3600# f-body), gear it to hit 175 and crush the competition. Street twin… you’re not running a T56, are you?

What event is this? What are the rules? I’m getting very curious, sounds like fun and slightly sick.

what’s your E/I ratio? What does your exhaust look like anyway?

Huh, blowing the blower through a 900-1000cfm TB should be sufficient to make that kind of power with the kind of boost that you’re talking about. I’m wonder if that progressive linkage will be more drivable then a 58mm TB or a big mouth or something similar. It’s not that big a deal to add a progressive linkage cam to the throttle linkage (hell, steal one off of an early GM TBI or ford), or even use a slightly small TB and big plenum to deaden the response but keep your top end. Hell, give it a sluggish timing curve and use it as a primitive traction control.

Right now you’ve got enough TB to feed 500cfm intake ports without it becoming a restriction. Unless that progressive linkage is much better then I expect one to be you’re going to have a pretty binary throttle.

Or spin the blower faster. I’d love to play with a combination like this… you don’t often see this much engine and this much blower in one combination, you’re bound to see some new and different problems… My instinct is that your advertised duration and overlap might be a little on the high side unless you’re planning on turning 7500-8000 rpm (maybe more).

yea, quite a few of the local mid atlantic f-body guys are fairly serious road racers. Seems like about once a year one of them tries an electric pump, and all of them that I know of get rid of it within 6 months and probably half of them do it while building a new engine, though I’m not sure how many (if any) have tried the high flow CSI.

heh, I build everything on the cheap… gotta love it when you figure out what OEM parts work well in semi insane conditions.

I’ve always thought “bolt it to a plate and then try get everything to line up” tedious and not that well thought out. The biggest thing is that what you see with the engine off or idling is not what it’s doing at >6K rpm and and under load, and then people wonder why they’re chewing up belts, skipping ribs…. Think about it, you’re transferring 20-60hp to the blower via the belt with nothing but a flat plate to make sure that it gets there. If you replace the plate with a 3 dimensional bracket then you can build some adjustment into it and more stiffness with less metal, of course, redesigning all of that would probably prove more of a PITA then just making what you have work.

So a couple of cars have pulled 160 in the half mile, what does it take to be competitive? Do you have a web site up with more details about your car?

 

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You can find pics of the car and some specs in my sig links.

No-TKO II-car is geared to hit 170 @ 7k RPM

The event link is also in my sig, along with a clip from last year.
www.sorcrace.com If you can run it, it is quite a rush!

Cost $100 to run either the 1/2 or 1 mile if you can pass tech.

 

Heh, leave it to me to completely miss that a lot of the info that I was asking about was in your sig.

huh… not a very good match for the blower + cam… OTOH, there is a nice effect that a good porter can generate in an exhaust port that will not show up on a flow bench.

How do you like it? Been wondering about that thing, I’ve seem some good stuff about it.

Heh, generally it’s not _that_ hard to build a fast car if you’re creative, but it is difficult to pass tech unless you’ve got a few $ to spend. I’m guessing that tech is somewhat like Maxton, as you go faster it gets more serious till it’s pretty much insane at _fast_ speeds.

 

quote:
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Originally posted by bbunting
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Well, I am not going to argue with Mr. Stark who certainly has done work on far more powerful cars than mine.


http://www.cfmperformance.com/ourcustomers.htm

 

I have a LS1 in my car and got a top speed of 147 before i decided i better slow down....lol, no need to kill myself in Texas.......Is that an engine limited thing?.......or computer controlled...

I got my car up to 136 in 4th Gear, on a dyno, and i still had 5th and 6th to go...........

 

If you have a T56, then 5th and 6th are overdrive gears, which means they would require more power to turn, especially 6th. The faster you go, the more HP, gearing, and aerodynamics start to matter, IMHO

 

Is what an engine limited thing?

You have an LS1 (more HP) in a 3rd gen (better aerodynamics). You’ll go a little faster. If you’ve ever tried it you’ll know that 147 is significantly different then 165 or so, both in feeling and in what it takes to do it. I don't know anyone that can actually pull a top speed in 6th with a T56, too much gearing.

This was not an easy picture to take: