I was installing my nitrous system into my car last not but could not make it run. Do you need a relay to make the system run? I would really like if someone has a wiring diagram or something i can follow so that i can correctly connect the system.- Eric

 

What system do you have.

I am using a relay for mine (guy at the parts store, tried to sell me a flasher, that would have been interesting!). Are you using a microswitch to activate it at WOT?

 

One way of doing it.

 

I have the super power shot, Yes i got the wot switch. What do you mean by (enable,go baby go, full throttle) You have to have 3 different switchs to activate the nitrous system? Also do you need to have a fuel pressure switch?Does it matter what wire goes to to negative or possitive on the solenoid?Will my system work like this???

 

You probably don't need the fuel pressure switch, but from previous posts on here I would say it's a good idea and I would do it. I can't remember the exact post but a year ago or so I read about a guy that suddenly started to lose oil pressure and the OEM fuel pump/oil sender cut off the fuel and he was under a nitrous shot at the time... so he had nitrous and air going in with little fuel through the solenoids and from the injectors... not good probably.

As for the 3 switches that's just a Gone in 60 Seconds movie pun... one switch to arm the system, then a button (go baby go) on the shifter ****, then a WOT switch after that to finally get it started.

As for the negative wire I imagine you'll need to hook it to somewhere. After all we're not wiring series on car audio subwoofers.

As for the negative and positive connectors I got no idea. I've never installed or even seen a solenoid up close so take all my advice as a grain of sand.

 

Hay dewey what relay are you using on your system??? Have any part #s??????

 

Relays are for the rich , both noids have 2 wires. Crimp one of the two wires from each noid together. Have one pair going to ground, have another pair going to a on/off push button. Now the button u want the other open end going to a 12v source. VOILA NITROUS

 

I just grabbed a 4 pin relay from the parts store, it was like $7.

I have a friend running without a relay also, but i just like the relay idea. That way all the draw from the noids is not going though the micro-switch. It might not be need, but for $7 it lets me sleep better.

 

That’s probably fine for some of the smaller setups out there, but not for some of the bigger ones. A great example is the great big honking NX solenoids… you don’t want to be running that many amps running through wiring in the passenger compartment and the activation switch. Spend the $5 and get a relay

 

Another thing to watch for is that the solenoids actually work. On my cheater setup, the nitrous solenoid was defective and wouldn't open fully. Soon as I changed it out for a known good one, whoa baby One more thing is to have a good power source.

 

the relay is there to stop the microswitch burning out, i always fit one, just incase the contacts decide to weld themselves closed one day

 

i would like to have a relay in between there. I get witch ever relay that is there, just to make shure that it is a 4 pin. Does it matter how many amps relay it is?

 

I'm at work, so I can't tell you the amperage on my relay. But you need to figure you need more than the noid draw. Then the inline fuse, should blow if you draw too much. You might need to contact NOS to get the amp draw of your noids. then you figure what relay you need, and what fuse to run.

 

cheap n nasty one form a shop, probably about $5- solenoids the ones we supply with kits are 40a, usually used for wiring up fogs or spots

 

edited:

Yeah, 40a should be find, the fuse would blow long before you could do anything to the relay.

 

most solenoids draw less than 10a, its just that 40a relays are a lot more common and a lot cheaper:lala:

 

lol, I had just edited my post while you posted that. I re-read it, and realised you were talking about the amperage of the relay, not noids.

 

I always put the full throttle switch between the relay and ground. JMO

 

Well i went to the parts store today and looked at the relays. I saw a 4 pin relay that was used for a flasher and had some markings that were: c
- +
l2
I think it was something like that. Is that the one? If so what wire goes were?

 

the microswitch can still melt even if your switching earth so u still need the relay, and the flasher one will have an inbuilt flasher unit, i will try and get the details/pt no for a relat and post it later guys
regards
paul

 

One more thing i forgot, The hobbs switch cannot handle load either, this is how I wire them with relays. (on fogger systems we wire them the same way but use a continous duty solenoid instead of the relay).
Potter Brumfield/tyco 40 amp relay #VF4-45F11
bosh relays use the same tab numbers

Relay #86 tab, full throttle switch, hobbs switch (if used), then ground.
Relay #85 tab, 12volt+ from arming swich, (should get its power from a key on power source)
Relay #30 tab, 12 volt 40 amp fused supply (usually direct from bat or solenoid )
Relay #87 tab, to nitrous solenoids

Other wires from solenoids go direct to ground.

 

FWIW,

my relay is part number

V520-40 it also shows TWV520-40 and AR-401 , it is only a 30amp

85 - ground
86 - +12v from switch
87 - +12v from Battery
30/51 - noids

 

saves me journey- what's a hobbs switch when its at home guys?