Head bolts torque patterns.
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
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Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
Head bolts torque patterns.
anybody know how to torque the head bolts on aluminum 350 pre -87 heads? I know the torque specs of 65 lbs, but not the pattern to torque them.. Do you have a link, i really want to get this thing running. -J
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I don't have a torque pattern handy, but its pretty straight-forward. Start at the center bolts at tighten in an outward fashion. So like, the first center bolt in the head, then one to the left of center, one to the right of center, etc etc. I'm sure someone will chime in with the 'official' patterns that are printed, but they all are pretty much saying the same thing, just keep your count, and don't forget any.
here is something more important though:
tighten in steps, so if 65ft-lbs is the final torque, step in like hand tight, then 30ft-lbs, 45, then 65. try and step in equal-ish amount, but above all when closing in on the final torque, keep a nice even stroke, and get a smooth click or needle sweep on your wrench. so for instance, don't try torqueing to 62 ft lbs, then try to get to 65, since you will be fighting static friction breakaway torque and may tighten more than spec.
also, make sure you use some kind of thread sealer. myself, I use plain old ultra-black RTV, and never had a failure, but the 'correct' stuff is a dedicated thread sealant.
here is something more important though:
tighten in steps, so if 65ft-lbs is the final torque, step in like hand tight, then 30ft-lbs, 45, then 65. try and step in equal-ish amount, but above all when closing in on the final torque, keep a nice even stroke, and get a smooth click or needle sweep on your wrench. so for instance, don't try torqueing to 62 ft lbs, then try to get to 65, since you will be fighting static friction breakaway torque and may tighten more than spec.
also, make sure you use some kind of thread sealer. myself, I use plain old ultra-black RTV, and never had a failure, but the 'correct' stuff is a dedicated thread sealant.
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
yeah, that's what i thought, but I heard something about a triangle pattern, starting in the center. anybody know? thansk -Justin
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
thank you very much! and that's for the pre-87 or pre centerbolt heads right? i appreciate it!
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Originally posted by Justin 87 GTA
thank you very much! and that's for the pre-87 or pre centerbolt heads right? i appreciate it!
thank you very much! and that's for the pre-87 or pre centerbolt heads right? i appreciate it!
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
thanks so much! i've been looking all over for this! thanks-Justin
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Justin 87 GTA
thanks so much! i've been looking all over for this! thanks-Justin
thanks so much! i've been looking all over for this! thanks-Justin
Unless you want water crawling up the threads.
-- Joe
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Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
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Originally posted by Justin 87 GTA
thanks so much! i've been looking all over for this! thanks-Justin
thanks so much! i've been looking all over for this! thanks-Justin
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
i bought the how to rebuild a small block chevy,,,,didn't see it in there, but anyway, see how great the net is. But thanks for the recomendation...that is very insightful.
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
Hey Don,
How ya been? I built my own motor, did the entire assembly and blueprinting, etc. It's a blower shortblock...anyway, thanks for the reply...how is your car,..how fast? also, do I need RTV on the front main seal where is touched the timing cover? and RTV on the timing cover gasket? thanks.....good talking to you.; -J
How ya been? I built my own motor, did the entire assembly and blueprinting, etc. It's a blower shortblock...anyway, thanks for the reply...how is your car,..how fast? also, do I need RTV on the front main seal where is touched the timing cover? and RTV on the timing cover gasket? thanks.....good talking to you.; -J
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Justin 87 GTA
Hey Don,
How ya been? I built my own motor, did the entire assembly and blueprinting, etc. It's a blower shortblock...anyway, thanks for the reply...how is your car,..how fast? also, do I need RTV on the front main seal where is touched the timing cover? and RTV on the timing cover gasket? thanks.....good talking to you.; -J
Hey Don,
How ya been? I built my own motor, did the entire assembly and blueprinting, etc. It's a blower shortblock...anyway, thanks for the reply...how is your car,..how fast? also, do I need RTV on the front main seal where is touched the timing cover? and RTV on the timing cover gasket? thanks.....good talking to you.; -J
1) Both ends of the intake manifold
2) Around the water ports on the intake manifold gasket (both sides).
On earlier SBC's, the oil pan gasket could use some on the cornors.
Everywhere else, thats what the GASKET is for. A clean gasket surface will never require RTV.
-- Joe
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
thanks for the info,....I was gonna put some on the fuel block off plate too,...but now i won't. I remember the intake water ports though, and the ends of the intake,....everyone uses RTV there, and doesn' use the cork correct? thanks. -J
Justin,
Anesthes, is right on the money!
I've been buisy with family and work, so I never fully tested the combo I was building. To date it has gone 10.00 @ 144 with a bad 60'. I have since built a new motor with a bigger blower, it will be ready for spring. I am looking to be a lot faster with this combo.
Hope all goes well for you, keep in touch!
DonB
Anesthes, is right on the money!
I've been buisy with family and work, so I never fully tested the combo I was building. To date it has gone 10.00 @ 144 with a bad 60'. I have since built a new motor with a bigger blower, it will be ready for spring. I am looking to be a lot faster with this combo.
Hope all goes well for you, keep in touch!
DonB
Thread Starter
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
Good to hear don,,, not sure how fast i'll go,...hopefully in the 11's///...keep me posted via email on the new combo,...i'm glad to almost have mine done! where does the oil pan gasket get the rtv? all 4 corners???/ by the timing cover corners? thanks
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 844
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
another question:
my freind tells me to pre-lubge the oil pump w/ white lithium grease so it starts wet, and also says to put white lithium on all the oil pan gaskets to help it stick while i set it in place,...etc..what do you think of this?....or do i just need a dab of rtv on the 4 corners of the pan gasket and the 2 ends of the timing cover.? thank s
my freind tells me to pre-lubge the oil pump w/ white lithium grease so it starts wet, and also says to put white lithium on all the oil pan gaskets to help it stick while i set it in place,...etc..what do you think of this?....or do i just need a dab of rtv on the 4 corners of the pan gasket and the 2 ends of the timing cover.? thank s
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