New engine runs....BUT
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
New engine runs....BUT
Hey all:
I finally go the new small block running.. The difference is that it is lower compression and the cam is bigger than the last motor. I did the cam break in, then took it for a ride. Here's what turned up:
First off, the coil connector broke, so I had to run two pin connectors in place of it. The car would stall out after going about a mileor so. I think the bumps rattled the coil connector that I made, and therefore, I just pushed them back in and the car seemed to run better. I hope when i get the new connector, it will not stall and maybe it'll idle better. I reset the idle adjuster and sometimes it stayed at 1,500rpm, other times it droppped to 750 rpm and wanted to stall when it was at the same adjustment. I had to double foot the brake and throttle to get it inot gear without stalling most times. ideas?
Two: The oil dipstick got kinda chwed up and bent by the crank. I don't recall putting in or taking out a lower dipstick tube, I heard that on earlier models, Gm used a lower dipstick tube. I have a pre-97 (probably late 70's or early 80's passener side dipstick block. ideas?
Three: (this might be the worst)
The oil pressure was at 30 on the cam break-in. But, once i restarted the motor, the pressure with 10w-30 was only at about 8-10lbs, on idle. But that was a rough idle that was almost stalling. I have a electronic stock gauge. I want to change the sender and get a mechanical gauge. However, it did jump up to 30 lbs whenever i brought it over 2,000 rpms. I know it never went that low in the past, I don't know if its just the sender or if I have a problem. The oil pump only had about 1,000 miles on it, so i took it apart, and inspected it....that's why I re-used it in the new motor. It was an expensive one, and it worked fine when the oil motor quit, (even after it quit).
Anyway, I will get the coil connector, but I hope that solves the rough idle. I am not too concerned about the dipstick now, caue i don't need to run one. The oil pressure however concerns me, and it seemed as if the oil wasn't really flowing into the rockers, that well, but it wasn't at a high rpm when i looked and I think the lifters were filled with oil, cause the motor sounds good. COMMENTS?
oh btw, the pass side rockers were noisy, turns out they were hitting the valve cover.....fixed that. BTW the supercharger sounds great!
I finally go the new small block running.. The difference is that it is lower compression and the cam is bigger than the last motor. I did the cam break in, then took it for a ride. Here's what turned up:
First off, the coil connector broke, so I had to run two pin connectors in place of it. The car would stall out after going about a mileor so. I think the bumps rattled the coil connector that I made, and therefore, I just pushed them back in and the car seemed to run better. I hope when i get the new connector, it will not stall and maybe it'll idle better. I reset the idle adjuster and sometimes it stayed at 1,500rpm, other times it droppped to 750 rpm and wanted to stall when it was at the same adjustment. I had to double foot the brake and throttle to get it inot gear without stalling most times. ideas?
Two: The oil dipstick got kinda chwed up and bent by the crank. I don't recall putting in or taking out a lower dipstick tube, I heard that on earlier models, Gm used a lower dipstick tube. I have a pre-97 (probably late 70's or early 80's passener side dipstick block. ideas?
Three: (this might be the worst)
The oil pressure was at 30 on the cam break-in. But, once i restarted the motor, the pressure with 10w-30 was only at about 8-10lbs, on idle. But that was a rough idle that was almost stalling. I have a electronic stock gauge. I want to change the sender and get a mechanical gauge. However, it did jump up to 30 lbs whenever i brought it over 2,000 rpms. I know it never went that low in the past, I don't know if its just the sender or if I have a problem. The oil pump only had about 1,000 miles on it, so i took it apart, and inspected it....that's why I re-used it in the new motor. It was an expensive one, and it worked fine when the oil motor quit, (even after it quit).
Anyway, I will get the coil connector, but I hope that solves the rough idle. I am not too concerned about the dipstick now, caue i don't need to run one. The oil pressure however concerns me, and it seemed as if the oil wasn't really flowing into the rockers, that well, but it wasn't at a high rpm when i looked and I think the lifters were filled with oil, cause the motor sounds good. COMMENTS?
oh btw, the pass side rockers were noisy, turns out they were hitting the valve cover.....fixed that. BTW the supercharger sounds great!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
What are the specs on the engine (heads,cam,compression ratio etc)?
What kind of oil pump? 8-10 lbs at idle seems a little low. My stock replacement GM pump with synthetic 5-W30 has low 20's at an 800 rpm idle when hot.
What kind of oil pump? 8-10 lbs at idle seems a little low. My stock replacement GM pump with synthetic 5-W30 has low 20's at an 800 rpm idle when hot.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
trick flow 2.02's...66cc. 8.3:1 cr. 230/230 cam on a 112 w/ 500 lift.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
yeah, that's what my intentions are,....but I still gotta figure out the dipstick problems and the idle and rough running conditions.
Get the coil connection right first..
I had a bad coil connection and the part throttle/idel was rough.
Sender could be bad...I've read of high volume oil pumps actually being bad for most street set-ups. Are you using MAF or SD? Amount of tuning?
I had a bad coil connection and the part throttle/idel was rough.
Sender could be bad...I've read of high volume oil pumps actually being bad for most street set-ups. Are you using MAF or SD? Amount of tuning?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
thanks for the thoughts....I agree with that coarse of action for the coil. I hope that makes it run better, but are there any other tuning things to look at? Also, on the oil,...I can run the motor a little with the "low pressure right? I don't want it to sit too long not running. As far as the sender, years ago when it last ran, the same exact pump made proper pressure throught the same sender....maybe over time the sender got damaged. any other things that need to be adjusted for it to run better? Its MAF btw, and as far as the tuning, what do you mean?
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 645hp/656 ft lb Blown 383
Transmission: 700-R4 3,000 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.55 moser 12-bolt
well the good news is,....i started at 8p and it is now 4:30 am...I diagnosed it right and it was the gallley plugs..the motor sounds good and I am building good oil pressure,..however, I am afraind I already did damage with low oil pressure when I did the cam break-in, and I took it for a 2 mile easy ride. Also....I started it twice to warm it up to check the pressure with a new sender and gauge...l I HOPE ther is minimal or no damage,...but it would be my luck that this thing breaks next week cause of the missing galley plugs.... what do you guys think... i could use some good news....but tell me the truth.
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