The oil pressure was at 30 on the cam break-in. But, once i restarted the motor, the pressure with 10w-30 was only at about 8-10lbs, on idle. But that was a rough idle. I have a electronic stock gauge. I want to change the sender and get a mechanical gauge. However, it did jump up to 30 lbs whenever i brought the rpm's up to about 2,000 rpms. I know it never went that low in the past, I don't know if its just the sender or if I have a problem. The oil pump only had about 1,000 miles on it, so i took it apart, and inspected it....that's why I re-used it in the new motor. It was an expensive one, and it worked fine when the pistons broke, (even after they broke).
anyway, I am using a PH-5 oil filter, which I've heard may have sometype of check valve in it....could that be the problem? BTW< the oil presure is good till the block heats up all the way. any suggestions.? -J

 

I would get a mechanical gauge on there before we jump to conclusions. I wouldn't run it at all until you do. Did you check ALL your clearances before you put the motor together?

 

well, i checked all the ones i knew to check, liek the journal to rod bearing....etc,...what ones may i have missed.? Also, I was told alot of motors run that low at idle....so i have been running it a little, just to start it atleast..but yeah, i gotta get a gauge on there.

 

With even a decent oil pump I wouldnt think you would be seeing any less than 20psi at idle once it is fully warmed up. By all clearances I just meant did you check all your mains and all your rods, as opposed to checking one of each and assuming everything else was the same.

I havent heard of many small block Chevys that made that little oil pressure and lived. Pontiac motors are another story, I have heard it is common for them having close to 0 psi at idle.

 

well thats right that the hotter the motor gets- the oil pressure should drop. but it shouldnt be lower than 20#. hook up a reliable mechanical oil pressure guage. the stock electronic guages are horribly inaccurate.

 

yeah i will.....any mechanical gauge you reccomend in particular? Also,..could it be the front galley plugs or the rear main plug under the cap that I have been hearing about? if so, would I still get pressure at all? I get 15-35lbs cold. thanks -J

 

i use a Kentmore J tool to verify oil pressure, if your getting a mechanical guage just to verify the pressure go buy a sunpro for like 20$ and keep it as a tool- if your going with permanent gauges- cant go wrong with electronic autometers

 

well the good news is,....i started at 8p and it is now 4:30 am...I diagnosed it right and it was the gallley plugs..the motor sounds good and I am building good oil pressure,..however, I am afraind I already did damage with low oil pressure when I did the cam break-in, and I took it for a 2 mile easy ride. Also....I started it twice to warm it up to check the pressure with a new sender and gauge...l I HOPE ther is minimal or no damage,...but it would be my luck that this thing breaks next week cause of the missing galley plugs.... what do you guys think... i could use some good news....but tell me the truth.

 

Don't freak out. If you weren't beating on the motor it takes very little oil pressure to keep things running smoothly. The cam is not the main concern- it's lubrication comes mostly from "splash oiling" from the spinning crank. If you don't have a "death rattle" in the bottom end or valvetrain you probably won't have any long-lasting effects from the incident.

Once you're satisfied that you have fixed the problem change the oil/filter one more time (look for metal in the oil filter- small amount is acceptable, lots indicates real problems), warm it up again and then go out and beat on it a while. If it's going to break it's better that it does it sooner than later- and closer to your house!

 

i concur! thanks man.....