block limits
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: CR, Iowa
Car: 1990 IROC Z
Engine: blown 390 CI
Transmission: TKO II
Well, on a converted 350 block, I have made 649 RWHP with boost and sprayed 150 shot on top of that-still waiting for it to break so I can upgrade.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Car: 91 RS (Black, T-top)
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5-speed
Originally posted by onebinky
Probably 400ish with stock caps and low rpms. I wouldn't go over 5500 if you want it to live long.
Probably 400ish with stock caps and low rpms. I wouldn't go over 5500 if you want it to live long.
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Car: 91 RS (Black, T-top)
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5-speed
Originally posted by BlownBird
I made 741 at the rear wheels with the production block. That was through a th400 trans and 12 bolt. It was a 1987 1pc seal block with splayed caps and short fill.
Hope that helps,
DonB.
I made 741 at the rear wheels with the production block. That was through a th400 trans and 12 bolt. It was a 1987 1pc seal block with splayed caps and short fill.
Hope that helps,
DonB.
Here's the parts I want to use in my motor, some of which I already have:
80-85 2-bolt main 350
GM factory forged crank 1182
forged h or i-beam rods (can't decide)
wiseco or srp pistons
441 heads off chevelle 76cc 1.94/1.5
ht-60 holset diesel truck turbo (supports 950hp)
this will all be through a manual transmission.
My goal is 600whp with some room to grow, and I want it to be reliable, so I want to overbuild it.
How much did it cost you to have splayed caps installed (with line boring)?
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Car: 91 RS (Black, T-top)
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 5-speed
Let me see if I'm understanding this clearly. If you fill the water jackets with cement, ???how does coolant get in through there? What good would filling 1/3 of the cylinder wall height do?
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
It strengthens the bottom end of the block ..... I have read books on it ...never tryed it . Do you know where I am talking about ? The bottom of the block ..... is the lowest point of it .... you are just makeing the space smaller it flows into ...not blocking it off . Some ( David Visard ) have filled there blocks 2 thirds full with this filler . fill it to the bottom of the freeze plugs ...this is one third full
Didn't mean to get the thread outta joint
Didn't mean to get the thread outta joint
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Originally posted by 91rs5.0
Is it an expensive process? Will any machine shop be able to do this or is this something you can do yourself?
Is it an expensive process? Will any machine shop be able to do this or is this something you can do yourself?
No , it doesn't seem to be a big deal . But I am not saynig to do this by any means K ? I just read in a book by the author above that he did it and said it was an old hotrod trick. I would suggest you phone up some local machien shops ( auto) see what they say about the process . But from what i have read ....you by a can of this stuff. While the engine is horizontal and , the freeze plugs are out . You add the filler untill it hits the bottom part of the freeze plug holes on both sides ....let it get solid then BAM ....you just made a stock block alot frigging stronger
Apperantly it doesn't affect the cooling of the block a hole lot ......There a few few good books out there on moddifying the smallblock .....they are good reads to bring you up to speed on alot of the block prep stuff for high output applications . Check Summit for some I got a few from there .
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