Twins are up and running! Running stock 730 ecm and slightly modded prom in 8D at the moment. I will be changing to the $58 code and repining the ecm this week hopefully. Will also be replacing the map sensor with a two bar one.

Im having a few problems
- my map sensor is peging out fast at 4.98 volts
- im running rich. (have 25lb slp injectors)
- i have a slight miss at idle and under load

Ive been working on trying to find the miss but no luck. Checked the wires, plugs, coil, cap and rotor, ignition module, pickup coil, and still no luck. Thinking one or more of the injectors are stuck open and causing a rich miss.


Any ideas of a possible problem, or anything that i should do that i have not ?

 

and the side!

 

Intercoolers!

 

Looks really nice. Will that driver's side turbo fit under a stock/flat hood? It looks about an inch too high to fit.

Pegging the 1-bar MAP is easily explained- it's almost pegged at regular atmospheric pressure- i.e. WOT even without any boost. Gets the turbos spooled just the slightest little bit into positive boost and you're off the top end of it's range. Obviously, the 2-bar unit will be a different story.

 

They are BBSDesign headers and turbos, so i hope it fits under the stock hood . I wont be putting the hood on for a while anyway, no point until its running the way i want it to.

 

how exactly are you running the intake tubes from the FMIC?

 

bad a$$ Isn't that an lt1 Intake

 

Its a super-ram intake.

Are those NOS silenoids on the left in the first pic?

 

sharp eye

 

NOS plate system 150 shot
Superram intake
58mm BBK throttle body
MSD nitrious retard
MSD soft rev
MSD HVC ignition and coil
SLP injectors
Twin T03s
theres some more to but thats the big stuff


As far as the intake tubing goes, i had a buddy fiberglass the bottoms of the stock air filter housing to mate up with the intercoolers. Which i did just to try it, and because i havent seen anyone else with this design. But i wouldnt recomend copying sence i blew apart the upper air ducting under boost.

 

Repinned my 730 ecm to a 749 and downloaded a $58 bin from a website. http://www.speedtoys.com/~bort62/7749/Main.htm

Took it down the road for some logging and couldnt get but about 1 pound of boost, if that! This is with my new boost/vacume gauge that reads around 20 in of vacume at idle. Under acceleration it goes from 20 in vac to 10 in vac fairly fast and then slowly goes to 0 and then maybe 1 psi at WOT.
WTF!

Maybe the stock intake snorkel is restricting to much air?
I do have BOVs ( not in the pics, but they are mounted on the top stock intake snorkel ) and the wastegates are set at 6psi, i think but could be wrong. WHATS GOING ON ?

 

You are using the stock plastic air filter housing for the cold-side and you don't know what the problem is???!?! Hello buddy, that thing aint' made for positive pressure. Say goodbye to it the first time you press any more than 6 pounds through your system. POOF! Get some aluminized tubing in its place with silicone 4 ply connectors and T-bolt clamps.

i'm running about 12 pounds on my 5.0 mustang and even with T bolt clamps and mandrel bent tubing that comes within 1inch of every joint I still get major boost leaks and sometimes blow-offs (connectors will literarly blow-off no matter how tight you clamp em). Look like you are using the same turbos that I am too, 50 trim .48/.60 T3s, which means full boost will build before the end of 2nd gear so watch out for over-boost.

 

Btw, also get rid of that big ugly 4inch rubber boot in front of your throttle body. I tried using a similar thing on my mustang the first time I went for a 8 psi test drive, and MAN, you'd think a pound of C4 just blew up under the hood when that weak rubber sidewall blows up.

 

sounds like you not getting WOT

it should got to 0 vac when you drop the hammmer

 

Does anybody have a pic or design of how i should replace the stock intake part, while still fitting under the hood. Also how much more clearance does a fiberglass cowl bolt on hood have over my stock hood in the front latch section?

 

Im taking my stock intake snorkel off and replacing it real soon with some more alum piping. But im still missing at all rpms and cannot pinpoint the problem. Still thinking the distrubuter could be at fault or the pickup coil or the ignition module.

Also im running no exhaust ( muffler, cat ) past the downpipes off the turbos themselves, which has me thinking. Maybe its missing because of lack of backpressure??


I took the injectors off and tested and cleaned them with a injector cleaner that i made.

Checked all plugs and wires

Checked injector plugs with a injector test light

Reset IAC

 

Im taking my stock intake snorkel off and replacing it real soon with some more alum piping. But im still missing at all rpms and cannot pinpoint the problem. Still thinking the distrubuter could be at fault or the pickup coil or the ignition module.

Also im running no exhaust ( muffler, cat ) past the downpipes off the turbos themselves, which has me thinking. Maybe its missing because of lack of backpressure??


I took the injectors off and tested and cleaned them with a injector cleaner that i made.

Checked all plugs and wires

Checked injector plugs with a injector test light

Reset IAC

 

bah send those injectors out and havem rebuilt. I spend too much time trying to find a miss like that and realized it when I stuck a set of ford injectors on it and it ran like a top. Injector would be my #1 guess.

 

Still missing and will die sometimes at idle. But i said F@$% IT and took it around the block for a spin and read 6psi on my boost gauge, then i blew my ghetto temperary intake off.

Now im thinking that my lifters are shot because when i was cranking the engine over for some tests i noticed a clicking from under the intake. So i pulled the turbos, headers and valve covers off for a closer inspection. Then i noticed shortly after cranking the engine with the rockers exposed that i could feel the valve train clicking upwards several times on a couple rockers.

Any ideas?

 

Maybe these will help you out:



Maybe you could go through the rad support beside the radiator instead of over it, like this:

 

My car missed too when i got it running. It was one of the injectors. Also, sometimes, injectors can be pretty noisey, so maybe that tick is the injectors.

 

I really dont think its the injectors since i checked the spray pattern on each one. The rockers are ticking for sure, but im not sure whats causing the rockers to tick when the engine is not running. I searched and found that it could be valve lash, cam lobe is shot, or the hydr. lifters are shot.

 

rotfl!!! are you really using PVC pipe?

 

No its just temp to work out all the bugs. Much cheaper than wasting alum tubing and elbows. I will have something welded later.

 

I am sure its the injectors. The spray pattern means nothing other than its not clogged.

 

what injectors do you suggest ?

 

I would try some NEW (stress that) 22 lb/hr injectors. If it stops running rich and missing, theres your problem.

 

To answer an earlier question, backpressure has nothing to do with it missing, and you have plenty of backpressure from the turbos. In fact, NO backpressure after the turbos is ideal.

If you get new injectors, do not get 22 lb/hr's with those mods, lol. Look into some 32-42 lb/hr injectors depending on power levels, and tune for that. My 42's are from a Ford Lightning and they're working great (with $8D so far). Lots of people are running 42's with $58.

If your car was missing before you did the $58 conversion, that obviously shouldn't be your problem, but there's no way it will run really well with a .bin you downloaded from someone else, so you need to tune as well as figure out where you're miss is coming from.

If you're sure that the ticking is coming from lifters, it may just be that one or a couple rocker nuts backed off, that's common with this retarded design. Before you go and tear everything apart, set your valve lash and see if it doesn't go away. If it still doesn't and the lash is set right, then you have more serious problems.

I hope you're not planning on running that 150 shot with 6 psi on a stock shortblock.

 

Thanks for the help. I reset my valve lash and the clicking has gone away for now. But i have not ran the motor yet to see if the miss is gone. I have been having a lot of trouble with the $58 code and figured it would be best to start with a already modified bin.


As far as the stock motor, if it blows with the boost and the nitrious then it blows. I have my blower motor in pieces in my house, so it would just speed up the process of putting that in.