OK, finally done with medic school! DONE...TG! I finally get to have a full night sleep once and a while!

Now I can mess with my car. I have a paxton sn2000 and recently purchaesed a nitrous kit. I hooked the nitrous up to my hobbs switch so the gas turns on when I get into boost. Now, when I hit the gas and get into boost, my wheels just spin and spin. I am running a 100 shot, but if I run a 50 shot....well, I want more power I was considering getting an adjustible hobbs switch so I could run a 100 shot and then have the nitrous kick in @ 4.5psi. I run 9 psi out of my paxton. I would get a jacobs progressive controller, but I currently run a crane-hi6s for boost retard.

Will running an adjustible hobbs switch to active the nitrous be the key to better traction? I could then always turn up or down the hobbs switch so it would turn on later or sooner?

What are your guys thoughts?

 

Ive no personal experience with Nitrous... but i have heard if u mount the solonoid further away it will slow the hit or make it more gradual ...

 

Bro,


Thanks for the reply. My thoughts are that If I have the noids com on 1/2 way through my boost cycle, I will do 2 things;

1- cool the intake charge when it starts to get hot.
2-elliminate wheel spin.

ONe of my friend has a 3rd gen almost exaclty like mine, except my interior is nicer Same color too BUT.....He's gota procharger,which makes his nicer. with the same amount of boost 9psi, his is about as fast as mine with my sn 2000 and a 75 shot???? I think his S/C has way more CFM than mine....obviously..duhhh. I think the way boost comes on, his car is able to maintain traction better than how my combo works. gotta exp. with the hobbs switch.

I am currently in the process of making a typhoon replica out of a s10 blazer truck. V8-AWD. That plus a S.C. will make an awsome combo. I've got to find a way to get the AWD to handle the HP of a V8 wiht a S/C. I have the truck stripped down & on blocks. I have an engine with parts, plus a tranny. Now, to get everything put together and installed, plus ECM mod's. Adn wheels, Paint, ground EFX...$$$$ Maybye 2-10 years left I'm in no hurry.

But I do want to resolve my wheel spin in my Z....????? any thoughts?

 

better tires and suspension setup?

 

DUDE,

Sweet color! same as mine

I have some great tires. PSO2 potenza's. super sticky. It's not the tires AFR heads, LPE 213 cam, headers, 3 in exhasut, supercharger with 9spi and a 75 shot of no2. I should be thinking of a ford 9' rear end too. But I'm gong to focus my $ and energy on the typoon project. I wish i could put the AWD in my Z

 

Buy a window switch. You hook it into your nitrous system and your distributor/ignition system. You can set it to not allow the nitrous to kick in until a specific RPM. That way you can launch without spinning the wheels everywhere, and then the shot kicks in. It will also have a shut down RPM setting. That way you can shut the nitrous off before you get to your shift RPM. Here's a link to the one you want:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...D-8969&FROM=MG

I say you want this one because it is fully adjustable. All you have to do is push buttons. The other kind requires you to buy seperate, specific chips to control the top and bottom RPM.

 

As for your truck handling higher HP with AWD, I have only one thing to say. DANA

 

Bro,

TY for the insite. I think i will stay with the hobbs swictch. it will kind of work the same, jsut using boost as the indicator instead of rpms'.

As far as my new project, I"m worried about the transfer case handling the HP. Not hte rear end. I plan on stripping the s10 blazer to teh ground, and working from teh ground up. I want this car to be perfect. My Z is pretty nice for an orginal, but my typhoon is gonna be way nicer. IN time. LIke I said, maybe 10 years! I've negelcted my wife due to school for hte past 2 years, so I gotta give her some respect and attention for now.

 

I know what a hobbs switch does. I used one on my turbo setup on my mazda I had. I used it to activate my extra fuel injectors. It was set to come on at only 2 psi though. I like the window switch better for nitrous because of the shut down RPM setting. Your call though. Just don't say I didn't warn you if you go to up shift one time and the cylinder pressure makes you throw a rod.

I too was reffering to the transfer case. Dana 20 or Dana 300. Just do a search for dana transfer case on yahoo google or whatever. My buddies off road jeep has a chevy 400 with stupid power and even more torque using a Dana 20. He has never had a problem accept shearing drive shafts trying to pull trucks out of the mud.

By the way. I noticed you say your near seatle and had just finished medic school. Are you stationed at Fort Lewis? What unit? I'm currently at Fort Benning.

 

yeah... it IS the tires. It sounds like you have a motor capable of a lot of power... power that you'll never hook up on "regular/performance" type street tires. You need a set of drag-oriented tires to put that kind of power to the ground. Either drag radials or a DOT approved slick would do wonders for you.

 

I never over rev my Z, It' an automatic. I went through King County's program. Not in the military. Wish I had. And PLEASE be safe if you go "Over There"!

Now, about the dana 20 or 300. wonder if it will sustain more HP than the awd stuff? here's the link where I'm getting my info for the typhoon conversion http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Che..._Intro-20.html

 

Craiger,

How is your typhoon/syclone project doing? And how is your Z running? Gotta come over and do some skiing this summer