Hey guys here the scoop. I need some advice on this one.

I知 looking into replacing my Cam and Heads. I currently have an ATI Procharger with a 12lbs pulley (P600B), which is not installed on the car at this time, but I知 going to step back down and get an 8 or 9lbs pulley instead, just to get things tuned in first. The motor is a 1988 L98 350 internally bone stock. The reason I知 looking into getting a new Cam is a long story. But to sum it up, while trying to replace the timing chain I was pulling off the crank timing gear and the crank rotated about 5 to 10 degrees. I rotated it back to the best of my knowledge (TDC) but I still feel it out of faze. So if I知 going to get that deep into it I just figured to replace everything (Cam and heads) with better parts. Now my question is should I replace the cam and heads or just stay stock and re-degree everything back to factory specs? The car will only be used as a summer daily driver on the street with very little strip time if even that. I知 looking for more power and reliability.

Any opinions or suggestion will be helpful.

Thanks guys,
Chuck


Here are the mods I致e done to the car so far.
Accel Intake and large tube runners.
Ported Plenum
52mm TB with TPIS air foil
Matched and blue printed injectors (stock) from (TPIS)
MSD 8.5 plug wires
MSD-6A Ignition box
MSD coil
SLP 1 5/8 header
SLP Cat-Back
High flow Catalytic converter
170 thermostat
Jet Stage one chip (will get pulled out when SC is reinstalled)
Crower 1.52:1 Roller Rockers

Stock 9 bolt rear end with 3.27 gear

Transmission is starting to go (getting replaced this winter with probably an Art Carr 700R4 but; what ever mods are done this winter will probably dictate that.)

 

Heads will help a supercharged engine as much as, if not more a NA motor. Port velocity is not as much of a concern with a supercharger so going with a larger port/valve won't necessarily hurt performance or require higher rpms like in a na motor. You can definetly see some gains in switching cams. Unlike like the heads though stay away form cams with a lot of duration and tight LSA's. I would find something with ~220*@.050 duration and 110-114 LSA. A higher ratio rocker would also be another consideration.
Chris Lyons

 

Hey Chris thanks for the input I値l keep this in mind while make my decision.

Chuck

 

I will add to Chris' response by saying this:

Get a cam with approximately 10 degrees more exhaust duration, slightly more lift on the exhaust, and keep the lobe separation angle at a minimum of 114 degrees. You dont want a whole lot of overlap. Excessive overlap will cause you to blow a lot of the charge mixture out of the exhaust valve. Not good. It can also overheat your converter, melt down the catalytic "brick", and cause a serious exhaust restriction!

I hope this helped.

Peace...

 

back up guys.
First decide what heads you want to use. That will dictate what specs on your camshaft will be.

After you decide what heads you want, then call comp cams and get a custom grind. Or tell them what you are doing. what parts your using and what you want it to do. They will fix you up proper like.
Decide how much youd like to spend on heads and cam and then add about %30 more on top of that for gaskets, and other misc things you may need along the way like new plugs, wires, belts, etc.

AFR 190 heads are pretty good with a blower on our cars.
Good luck
any questions ask hhere!

------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech stuffed EFI 406 in progress
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Cluelessness: There are no stupid questions, but there are a lot of inquisitive idiots.