Okay so I'm thinking a 383 twin turbo'd engine.. And due to the cost of two turbochargers, that part of it will be coming much later.

So while I'm building the engine, what considerations do I need to keep in mind? Forged everything I know, but are there certain pistons meant for turbocharged engines? What about cams? (Of course, I'd want a cam that was meant for turbos but would run great without them.) Rocker ratios? yatta yatta.. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated.

------------------
89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

Turbo, supercharged, and nitrous motors are typically built the same:
forged pistons
forged rods
steel crank (or better)
high lift split duration cam with at least 112 degrees lobe seperation (I think 114 is a good split)
good heads, good heads, GOOD HEADS! -can't say that one enough. Make sure the heads have at least 80% exhaust to intake flow.
valvetrain: roller, can be hydraulic or roller (depending on application)
Good headers and a good exhaust, and no a 3" single pipe can't support 600hp in this dimension
Good cooling system, the extra power produces extra heat

------------------
Paul Huryk, billionare in training.
Monkey Guy Racing
Almost part of the moderately infamous NJ in-your-face all goomba crew

Do it right the first time.

Paul's home page

1985 IROC LG4 POS Best: 15.20s at 92.1mph
1984 Camaro 350 LG4 Best: 12.21s at 121.7mph

The smart person pays for something today so that more is received tomorrow.
The ignorant person gets something today and hopes to have enough money to pay for it tomorrow.

 

Hmm.. Do you suggest dual 3" pipes then? I'll have to figure a way to rig that. heh

Thanks for the help though.


------------------
89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

Ring gaps are different for a boosted motor.

Turbo cams and N/A grinds are much different.

Good luck finding room for duals

 

get the mufflex 4 inch one... thats a good system, otherwise have dual 2 1/2 made up for it


Steve

 

i think that two 3" pipes can be run back if they are atached. check and see if there is enough room. if there is get two dynomax manderel bent intermediate pipes and weld them together and get a set of full length headers and some manderl bends and run them into the intermediate pipes. i think that if you can split the pipes into two borla XR1 muflers out back. This is the exhaust that i am planing to use when i build my superchaged 383. As for the internals. select a crank made of a material that has a high impact toughness and a high modulus of elasticity. you can determine the material propertied of the metals from www.matweb.com they have a listing of just about every steel you could want. you can search for the materials by their properties. I hope this helps. Yes get forged every thing.

------------------
90 IROC l98
last season best corected 13.62 @102
mods
full exhaust, AFPR, pulley, jet stage 1 chip, billet servo, 52mm throttle body, slp runners and some 1.6 RR's and a few other little things.
243 RWHP and 342 RWTQ with hot engine and 90 octain fuel

 

Also, a low naturally aspirated compression ratio is required, because the turbos will force its own pressure into the cylinder, increasing the compression. I don't know too much about it, but i do know its true, ask around.

 

Ok the truth about turbos...
They can make mad power if done correctly.
1. head flow. Have the best porting polishing that you can get. The more you can move the greater the boost can be moved.
2. Intakes. Well these differ a little but usually a single plane in a boosted situation works the best.
3. headers. Well the shorter the better. Meaning that the less the disstance the exhaust has to travel to the turbine in the turbo the better.
4. Exhaust. Again flow it the key, run a BIG single 3 1/2 for a big single Turbo minimum maybe 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 for dual exhaust/twin Turbo.
5. Intercooling. This cannot be over emphizied..GET IT ANY WAY YOU CAN. You will not realize the power added by this simple little intercooler.
6. Inlet air temp. The lower the better. GET AN INTERCOOLER TO CONTROL THIS OR ALL THAT BOST WILL MEAN JACK SH*T.
7. Ignition. Have something that can handle it. Stock will not survive. MSD, Crane, Jacobs...Get something that is MULTI SPARK and STRONG.
8. Cooling system. You better have a good one. Boost means heat everywhere. If you run a 160 and still have probs get a restricter plate for racing, it will help keep you cool.
9. Stopping power. You want to go fast...Good. BUT CAN YOU STOP? THAT IS MORE IMPORTANT.
10. Compression. keep the piston compression low. The turbo's will more than make up for it.
11. Cam's. Call turbonetics or a similar company and they can help you more than anyone.

 

Who makes a turbo kit for our cars? Or do you have to have it custom-ordered or something? Turbos sound interesting, but are they better than say, a Procharger or a Vortech supercharger? I plan to get a turbo or supercharger sometime within the next couple years.....I've GOT to beat this little Supra Turbo thats been giving me trouble!

------------------
91 RS
Black w/ red tweed
t-tops
14x3 Open Element
80 Series Flowmaster
350TPI or Buick Turbo6 swap this summer


88 GTA
Red with grey cloth
K&N Filters
TPIS Airfoil

 

For info on 3rd gen turbosystems, please do a search in this forum under "turbo". This topic has been beat to death...

------------------
1989 T/A, 400" CNC Bow-Tie tall-deck, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Scat H-beam 6" rods, Scat 4340 crank, Crower roller cam, AFR heads, Tiffin Racing sheetmetal intake, Holley 75mm t/b, DFI, variable injector controller, 72# inj., S/X fuel system, Hahn Racecraft T76 single turbosystem, NOS 150-hp dry fogger, TH400 w/GV overdrive, Dana 44 w/3.70's, Baer Track brakes, Simmons FR 18X9 and 18X10 wheels, P265 and P285/35ZR18 Nittos, Spohn suspension, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, KYB AGX shocks/struts, Corbeau Targa RS seats, TeamTech 5-point harnesses, Sparco steering wheel, MacEwen white gauge overlays, Phantom gauges/tach, B&M Pro Stick w/carbon-fiber ****, REAL carbon-fiber dash/console kit (don't ask), S&W 8-point rollbar, Lonza aluminum pedal covers, Pioneer/Boston Acoustics stereo system, filled side markers, Audi clear fender marker lights, custom clear front turn signals, custom clear taillights, IMSA-style cowl hood (don't ask), custom medium Intense Blue pearl paint, tinted glass. Whew!

Best ET w/383" S-trim: 10.796 @ 125.8 mph
Best ET w/400" turbo, nitrous: Summer 2001

Member of Midwest F-Body Association www.mfba.org

 

Well bad news NO ONE makes one. To get one you have to fab a lot of it yourself. When I get my 4.3 I will be putting a turbo onto it. I know I have to fab the headers and the tubing and just about everything else.

And yes I know that the turbo imports give the F-Bodies a dear run for the money most the time beating them out. Good luck Black_widdow...you'll need it

 

D*amn those turbo imports

------------------
91 RS
Black w/ red tweed
t-tops
14x3 Open Element
80 Series Flowmaster
Will be faster soon!


88 GTA WS6
Red with grey cloth
K&N Filters
TPIS Airfoil
Future Restoration

 

hey black, i'm with ya man!! im about to sell my show truck and im gonna be building a import killing camaro. Should have complete suspension, brakes, tranny, wheels, interior swap, and all the internal work done to the engine by the end of this year. 2002 it will get the turbo's, the bodymods, and the new paintjob. Should be done by mid 2002.

------------------
--- Currently ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS
Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel

Planned: just tint!! (its a lost cause!)

--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 (5.7ltr / Auto)
K1 Interior Kit, Sparco Seats, Tweeded Interior, 6 pt Rollcage
TurboCharged L98 w/ internal work and T56 Tranny swap
Full Suspension (Eibach, Sphon, Undecided Shocks), Brake Upgrades (Baer), 18x9 Cobra R's all around
LOTS of bodymods and House of Kolor Chameleon II Black/Green Paint