I just noticed Cecil doesn't have a regular test and tune tomorrow. A private club called "Muscle Stallions of the Web" or something like that, has the track rented for the day. I guess I'll shoot for 11-24-06 instead.

 

Nice work!

Any reason why you moved the y-pipe furter back than before?

(planning on building a dual 2.5" to 3.5" just like yours but placing the ypipe like you hade before.)

 

I moved the Y-junction further back because

1) Space constraints in the original 'Y' location made it hard to have a smooth junction there

2) Due to the shape of the floor pan and the design of my Hotchkis sub-frame connectors, a 3.5" pipe could not be tucked up nicely in the area behind the fropnt wheel where the piping makes a 90° bend to point towards the rear. You will notice that the two 2.5" pipes are staggered- this was needed to tuck the pipes up in as far as possible for maximum graound clearance.

3) 3.5" plumbing is expensive. I wanted to use as little 3.5" pipe as possible.

 

Lets try one more time. Plan to run at Cecil tomorrow. Looks like a beautiful day, can't wait!

 

I'll blame it on the track. Its either that or I can't drive this thing!

Best on 18" street tires:
12.41 @ 118.76, 2.049 60'

Best on DR's:
12.52 @ 118.62, 2.088 60'

10psi, alky injection, 59°F, through new y-pipe with cut-out open

I ran the DR's three times. The first time I launched pretty hard and had tire spin/wheel hop in first and second, and the posi let go in 3rd and spun the crap out of one tire (12.8 at 115.8, 2.016 60'). The next DR run I launched softer but still spun/hopped through first, and over revved second (6k or so), 12.8 at 115.8 again, 2.008 60'). Third run on DR's I launched at 2000rpm. The rear tires felt like they spun one revolution and then hooked and gave my best DR run listed above. I still can't believe my best run of the day was on the 18's

I ran the DR's at 16psi and spun them through second gear for 2-3 seconds. That should have them hot enough I'd think. I used the same burnout procedure for the 18's, but they were run at 35psi.

In other news, the SPEC clutch is about 50% smoother now. I think I'm going to be able to put up with it after all. At least it doesn't slip!

 

I just kinda glanced and didnt see anything....

What kind of suspension mods do you have? Because you have solid 11 second traps.

 

The front and rear suspension are stock, but with few coils cut out front and rear for the right stance. I also cut and rewelded the the stock torque arm for better drive-line alignment since the Tremec swap involves dropping the rear of the trans about 3/4".

 

Getting some LCA'S and relocation brackets will make better use of the slicks.

 

hey its VWdave! and 89JY! and Crossfire! how are you guys? I Still pop in from time to time
/highjack

It looks good man. your car is what prompted me to.. well you know. I cant beleive your still on the same stock L98! thats nuts.
Im surprised you dont slap a stealthram on there to kill off some of that tire shredding torque, bring up the top end, let it breath and lower your boost a little. But you probably have a good reason not to.

Do you have any idea how much power you are making? your times look like mine with 300WHP/280Ft.lbs same 60' 2.0 same 1/4 about 6 months ago with one of the cars here.

 

Hey Kingtal0n,

I had it dynoed about 3 years ago with the smallish Volvo turbochargers at 6psi of boost. It made 328rwhp and 467rwtq. In that trim, the car went a 12.46 at 113 witha 1.8 60'. Now the car is heavier (by about 100lbs, 3800lbs total with me in it) and is going 119mph with 10psi of boost and taller gears. I think it's probably putting down 350-400rwhp and 500+rwtq. The engine seems pretty happy (knock on wood), it idles smooth and only has slight blow-by. I hope to keep this engine running until after I get a more serious engine managment system on it and get a handle on tuning. Then it will be easy to assemble a purpose built boost motor for it.

 

Holy carp, I havent heard from you in forever. Hows the import thing going? Ive been kinda hanging out with mark as of late, more than usual.

VW's running good, just have a damn exhaust rattle. 203whp and 252lb-ft.

Took the heads off the camaro a year ago after a meltdown. Last week I finally got around to taking the engine out and gonna try to get it running again. I have a set of AFR 195's waiting for it. At the rate I am going, its going to be at least 4-6 months.

 

Why in the world are you running 18's?

Seems to me, switching to some beefy slicks on some 15" or 16" wheels would do the trick on the track.

 

Nice work! I like that new Y-pipe. I need one too!
You can't get out of the mid-12's for the life of you! heh. Have you considered bracket racing? No matter what the conditions or mods are you'll still run a 12.5-12.4. Just teasin'.

Spring/summer time with it's stickier track conditions on the DR's and alky + good boost should get you there, it doesn't seem you'll ever hook in the cool unless you get slicks, which of course requires a stronger rear end.
It's interesting that my Talon would be ahead of your car in the 1/4 by a few lengths but your's would pull away from it on the highway.

After my current experiences, I'm even more impressed with the reliability of your setup. That speaks well for the builder.

 

Thanks Steve. Yeah, I might be able to bracket race it if they compared trap speed instead of ET. I was actually all over the place on the ET, just happened that my best runs always end up being right in the 12.4-5 range.

Right now I'm just having fun with it on the street. This cold weather makes the back end a little loose, as you are finding out on your car.