Late 350 block one piece rear main seal
Eagle forged stroker kit with:
4340 forged H-beam connecting rods 5.7
SRP dished forged pistons
Eagle 4340 crank 3.750
Dart heads Pro 1 aluminum
215 intake runners, 64cc, 2.05/1.60
Crower high rev kit
Crower solid roller cam #00426
Lift .57/.584 duration 288/290degrees lobe separation 112 degrees
Competition cams 1.5 roller rockers
Moroso stroker oil pan
Miniram intake manifold with fuel rail kit
BBK 58MM Throttle body
Procharger P600b supercharger, 9 psi pulley, 2 core intercooler, forge surge valve
55lbs injectors and dfi7 with wideband
Hooker Super competition long tubes (jetcoated)
Mufflex Ypipe
Mufflex 4inch catback with spintech muffler

will it make 500hp? im getting ready to take it to get it tune
any advice it will be appreciated

 

aside from the dished pistons your combo sounds close to 500 hp N/A material, well flywheel hp that is, but with 9 psi it should be in the upper 400's to the wheels, sounds pretty solid to me

 

you should definitely see 500 @ the crank if tuned right

 

yesterday i took the car for a tune, did 3 passes on the dyno with the supercharger tb tube disconnected and the injectors were at 70% duty cycle at 6500rpm and i need more fuel (AFR was at 15.7 at that rpm). we were doing the NA tune first. so i need new injectors, too small. just ordered 55lbs. cant wait to go back next week
i know the motor will make power but i may need a d1 head unit to pass at least 500hp at the wheels.

 

I'm no good at these guesses, but I'd say you'll hit 500 RWHP...

 

UHHH yeah .. you wont have a problem making 500hp at the wheels... not at all. Its very similar to my setup... minus the Procharger

 

that will be one sweet street machine if it's making 500 hp at the wheels

 

yeah thats is my goal 500 at wheels. but anybody knows when the pb600b max hp output is? the motor is build for boost.

 

and i think i would do better if it was an stick shift instead of an automatic.
with the cam i got should i get a bigger stall converter?? i got a holeshot converter i think the stall is 2300rpm

 

2300 should be enough

 

a 2300 stall with that cam is gonna be an absolute dog from a stop unless that blower comes in @ 2000rpms which is highly unlikely. If the duration numbers for that cam in your list is @ .050, you're gonna need at the very LEAST a 2800rpm stall. The whole point of torque converters is to get the motor into its power band faster.

 

that is advertised duration 288/290. the Duration at .050" Intake: 250
Exhaust: 252

 

the car likes to be past 3000rpm and i had it on the dyno at 7000rpm with no problem

 

Yur gonna need a bigger converter for sure... check out precision industries... they make some top notch converters

 

BTE makes the best converters for the best price. Cannot beat em.

 

I'd be pissed if you didnt make well over 500 rwhp. You have alot better stuff than me. And I only have 38lb injectors, GM alum L98 heads, TPIS ZZ-9 cam, stock lower TPI intake and large tube runners, and so on.

 

well i'll be pissed too, i just installed the injectors and on thursday is going to the dyno again.. so i keep you guys posted... hopefully im close to 500...

 

you should make almost 500bhp N/A.. 9psi on a procharger will boost you at least 40%.. but more like 50-60%.. i say around 550-580 at the wheels.. i have a 385 with a smaller cam and 10:1 comp.. and i'm making around 450-465hp.. your setup will be crazy once tuned.. oh ya, i didnt really tune my carb either.. swapped jets a couple times and played with the floats.. not tuned to the best it can be.. fuel injection will help.. well keep us posted..

 

Yeah, keep us posted man. Good luck

 

Revelz,

Sounds like you have a good setup. I am building my engine now and hope to reach similar numbers. I was wondering if you had any clearance problems with the moroso stroker oil pan?

 

well you need longtube headers with that oil pan but other than that everything fits good.

 

So, any numbers yet?

 

yes im very dissapointed, 390hp at wheels 472ftlbs. fuel pressure was droping after 5000rpm fuel pump cant keep up, i need a inline pump. i was only seeing 10boost at 6500rpm i was expecting more boost cause i changed pulleys before going to the dyno suposibly was a 13lbs pullley.
the car has a sh*t lot of torque no traction at all but im very dissapoited on the hp numbers. so any sugestions

 

great torque, not so great hp.. what rpm was your peak hp? where did the power start to flatline? if its at about 5000, then you still got 1000+rpm to go with a new fuel pump.. or even better, could you post your dyno sheet?

 

no i dont have the sheet (i was so dissapointed that i forgot) the trans was acting weird it wasnt holding drive, when i was at wot i would shift to OD in the middle of the run. anyways the line was going down after 5k. but it wasnt a flatline it was all over the place. the guy who tune the car only adjusted the VE table he didnt touch the spark table and he the zero out the knock retard table. the same with the fuel press was fluctuating a lot. he told me that the rails may be a restriction..

 

I would have to guess that it the fuel pump. What kind are you using? The fuel pressure shouldnt jump around. And i really dont think its the fuel rails. (are they still stock TPI rails? Thats what im running w/out problems)

 

i got a walboro 255, and the rails are tpis miniram rails

 

HMMM? Thats the same pump i got. But i do have a boost-a-pump. (it applies more voltage to the pump when theres more than 3lbs of boost) Maybe thats what you need. Or just add an inline pump.

 

Out of curiousity, do you have a regular 255 or a 255HP (high pressure)? The HP's flow more than the regular version as the fuel pressure rises.

Putting a pump inline will increase flow a bit, but it will REALLY increase the amount of pressure in which it can flow well.

 

i got a 255 forced induction, didn't put the inline pump cause procharger said that i didnt need it cause of the injector size that i have..

 

The little things can get ya. Did you put a new fuel filter in it?

You could check the fuel pump voltage and see if it is correct. I can't see the rails being a restiction, the 55#/hrs are plenty big enough. Is the fuel pressure regulator referenced to boost?

 

im have been thinking about getting rid of the supercharger and making it turbo. what turbo size turbo would i need be at boosting at min of 15psi. posibly 500 or 550 at wheels. plus im going to sump the tank and run a aeromotive 100 pump

 

If your gonna go turbo, it's easier ansd cheaper to use twins on a V8. You'd probly want to use a pair of t3/t3 hybrids or even a pair of t61's. You would have to consult someone when you go to buy the turbos and give them your engine specs so the trims can be calculated.

 

i cant believ that u didnt make 500 at the wheel if its an automatic then the drivetrain steals about 35% but i think it is your fuel lines to and how good are the dyno operators some times they r off quite a bit