Well I have a 1991 gta and im thinking of spraying it for the trips when I go to the track.
is there any do's and dont's?

i can get a brand new kit dirt cheap.

Kit = $430
purge = $70
Total = $500 Installed.

But what do you guys think??

Any advice,parts i will need, parts I should check?

Well here is my info on my car.

305 tpi
auto
3.73 gears
edelbrock tes headers 3" exhaust
88,000 miles

And then bolt on's but I wont list them

But I need some info on this . I just thought this isnt a bad deal and I really want to get faster times at the track. So any imput is great.

Also is my stock fuel pump going to be good enough??
i already have a afpr would I work if I just bumped up the psi on that?

 

What kinda kit is it?
How much shot?

Search for nitrous and you'll come up with that getting an upgraded fuel pump is a good thing.

See the sig for a zex kit on a 305tpi

 

well if you go to www.dynotunenitrous.com you can get a kit for cheaper than 430.00 i think i paid 370 for the one i had. a few things you'll want to upgrade.

1: fuel pump-walbro 255 intank will be more than enough cost about $120 bucks with hotwire kit from TSP
2: Plugs- autolite 103's or NGK-tr6's gapped at .035 bout $30 at any local parts store
3: Window Switch, get the digital one you you dont have to mess with RPM modules, $90 from jegs or summit
4: Bottle heater, $60 for the heater or $110 for the adjustable kit from dynotune.

 

Its a cold fusion kit wet kit

Can I get any more advice on this?

 

the only nitrous system that I'm happy with is the NX kits. Some buddies use the NOS kits as well, but my first choice is always the NX kits. Don't forget the fuel pressure safety switch, bottle warmer, window switch, WOT switch etc etc

 

Watch your fuel pressure with N2O on, stock pump can't hang with much over 100HP.

Watch Dynotune Stuff, they don't back their stuff up will leave you with defective garbage.

Stock plugs work just fine, no need for anything fancy smancy.

Hit it from the line and keep it on all the way down the track to git the full giggle effect. No fancy controls needed.

Enjoy

 

run plugs 1-2 steps colder as well, don't spray below 3000 rpm

 

Well I bought a bbk afpr and a bbk 255 fuel pump.

Is that all or should I invest in anything else?

Also am I digging a grave for my car ? Because im going to run n2o on a 88,000 mile motor.

Is there a mile limit to where you should not run n2o??

Any info, advice, personal experinces ...... would be great.

Is a 100 shot 2 much??

 

My L98 has 180K on it and I'm hammering it with roughly 180HP worth. Detonation is the enemy. Make sure the engine is warmed up and I would discourage cold thermostats.

I hit it off the line and leave it on all the way.

Stock Plugs, stock wires, stock air cleaner, 255 Fuel pump (Stock could not hang with 150HP), stock timing, stock chip, stock module, stock coil. All that other crap just isnt neccessary to operate in the range we are talking about.

Note that with your fuel pressure staying much higher that that of a stock pump, your jetting will not be anywhere near that specified for a kit put on a stock setup.

Use a bulkead fitting for where your N2O passes from inside the car to outside. I installed a high pressure ball valve between my bottle and the bulkhead fitting so that I do not have to vent all the N2O in the line when I change bottles. at $3.50/lb +- you don't want to waste it.

 

Im running a 100HP shot on my 120K 305. From what Ive read it should last a while as long as I setup it up right. Shooting for a new engine by fall anyway though.

 

So I should take out the 160 stat that I have in there and put something higher in like 180 or even 190 right??

Anymore advice.

 

BE PREPARED TO GET A FEW DIFFERENT SIZE FUEL JETS, DO A SEARCH FOR JET CALCULATORS AND ENTER THE PARAMETERS OF YOUR FP AND BOTTLE PRESSURE ETC - AND GO FROM THERE.

DEFINITELY GET A HOBBS SWITCH, i USE A WINDOW SWITCH FROM MSD FOR THE ON/OFF OF THE N2O AND THE LIMITER FROM THE 6AL IN CASE THE DRIVE SHAFT BREAKS

 

I am certain you will get argument on this one but yes. To acheive the maximum strength and ring seal, your engine needs to be at the operating temperature for which it was machined. THe parts of a stock motor acheive their best fit at the stock temperature. Since you will be asking it to produce more power than it ever has, give it the benifit of the right temperature.

Watch the detonation and keep in mind that you may well produce your best power by retarding your WOT timing some (experiment) while using the N2O.

 

Well, did you do it?

 

WRONG WRONG WRONG, Keep the 160 T stat in there. An engine at full heat isn't optimal in the least bit. They didn't take metalugry into mind when they stuck 195 T stats in our cars, they had emissions in mind. You don't want the motor at full temp, when you have it at full temp you run a MUCH higher risk of detonation plus the heat made by the nitrous is going to cause your rings to expand ALOT. The worst thing would be having the rings fully expanded then throwing nitrous on them and having them expand more. Keep the engine cool on nitrous ALWAYS!

 

That would be the argument I was referring to, you will have to decide.

 

Not a hard decesion in my book. There's a reason you get flamed for saying that. And you don't have to "just decide" think about it, anyone who builds an engine for nitrous will tell you to run a LOOSE ring gap. Then ask yourself this, what causes detonation? HEAT! The hotter Tstats will make the heads hotter which will lead to... you guessed it DETONATION! I understand your thinking on this Texas, you did a pretty good job explaining it, but it's incorrect. Just keep the engine cool, you won't regret it. The only conceivable way I could see the cooler T stat hurting is if it ran the engine so cold that over time it carboned up the cylinders; and that's highly unlikely to happen on our third gens that are cooling challenged from the factory.

 

These industry experts indicate a double wear rate with a 160 degree (or too cold) thermostat.
“The all too commonly used 160 degree thermostat is way too low to be considered for performance or engine longevity”
http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ermostats.html

“Too low of an operating temperature will also increase piston blowby and cylinder wear.”
http://www.aftermarketnews.com/defau...Text&item=5138

“If you use 160s be aware that this can have a degrading effect over a time on your engine. I know alot of rodders still using them however to whatever ends they want...and that's okay.”
http://carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html

“If the engine operated at too low a temperature, what would happen?
a) condensation would build up in the oil. b) fuel economy would be poor
c) the engine would wear very quickly d) engine emissions would be poor
e) all of the above
http://www.abbysenior.com/mechanics/cooling.htm

“Using a different temperature rated thermostat in an attempt to "cure" a cooling issue can increase fuel and oil consumption, ring wear and emissions.”
http://www.ptdoityourself.net/guide_savempg.html

“Thermostats help to provide a fast warm-up and also aid the engine to avoid acid formation in the oil, all the while reducing engine wear. Most new GM engines produced until the late '80s used 195-degree thermostats installed on the outlet side of the engine.”
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...g_system_info/

Automotive pistons are made too small and elliptical at the top; the design is frequently referred to as the cam and barrel design wherein the skirt area is round (barrel) and head is elliptical (cam). The part of the skirt perpendicular to the crankshaft is the only part that is really close to the correct size when cold. As the piston warms, it expands to become round and the correct size. Granted the piston temperature is more regulated by oil temperature than coolant temperature, our engine oil is regulated greatly by our thermostat selection (partially because of a coolant-oil cooler). The thicker area of the pistol around the pin boss is smaller than the thinner area so that when heated, becomes a circle.

These diagrams may give you a visual of what I’m talking about.
http://www.sweethaven02.com/Automotive01/fig0326.gif
http://www.sweethaven02.com/Automotive01/fig0327.gif

“Cam-ground pistons are machined so their diameter is smaller and more parallel to the piston pin axis than it is perpendicular to it. When the piston is cold, it is big enough across the larger diameter to keep from rocking. As it warms up, it expands across its smaller diameter at a much higher rate than at its larger diameter. This tends to make the piston round at operating temperature. The walls of the skirt are cut away as much as possible to reduce weight and to prevent excessive expansion during engine operation. Virtually all pistons in automotive applications are cam ground.”
http://64.78.42.182/sweethaven/MechT...Num=3&modNum=1

Another diagram
http://tpub.com/content/engine/14037/css/14037_103.htm

“Whereas other parts are generally nominally round and straight-sided, pistons for reciprocating engines are deliberately engineered out-of-round and barrel-shaped.”
http://www.qualitydigest.com/nov99/html/formscan.html

“Pistons for reciprocating engines are engineered to be barrel-shaped and elliptical due to thermal and mechanical load deformation.”
http://www.manufacturingcenter.com/q...8/398auto2.htm

“pistons are elliptical. The reason is that the pistons operate over a heat range, are metal (usually aluminum ), and must be able to expand as they heat up. If they were round and undersized, to allow for expansion, they would rock in the cylinder in the plane at 90 degrees to the crankshaft. By making them oval so that they fit at the proper clearance in that plane, you get no rocking (piston slap). They then expand in the other plane ( in line with the crank shaft) as they heat up.”
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/cg...c;f=1;t=020382

The pistons in a stock engine were engineered to fit the bore at the operating temperature specified by the same group of engineers. There is tons of verifiable information regarding engine life and efficiency published by engineers and research groups regarding operating temperatures and internal combustion engine efficiencies and tolerances. As many of the listed information sources state, the best compromise might be to consider a 180 degree thermostat in lieu of the factory 195. 160 is just too cool for an engine engineered to operate with a 195. Just about of the sources state increased cylinder wear as one among the numerous reasons for not running a 160 degree thermostat.
The reasons for increasing the operating temperatures are stated in most of the sources provided and include emissions reductions as well as crankcase deposits and acids. Whatever reason you accept is regardless of the fact that the operating temperatures were increased and the engine’s components engineered to operate at those temperatures. When the decision was made to increase operating temperatures in the engine, more was done than just dropping in a hotter thermostat.
Detonation is caused by many factors, none of them engine temperature. One factor is indeed combustion chamber temperature and while loosely bound to engine temperature, until significantly overheated is not a significant factor. While a cold engine may help mask real problems causing detonation, the fact is; the correct temperature is not the cause of a detonation problem.
Read the FAQ on the Nitrous Oxide System’s website, there is no reference to any 160 degree thermostats. http://www.holley.com/TechService/FAQ.asp?category=NOS
In their installation requirements, a cooler thermostat is not even listed at all and this chart covers systems in excess of 200HP. Take a look http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...quirements.pdf
Their Tuning Technical Information http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...quirements.pdf, nothing there either.
In the instructions for their EFI systems up to 250HP, Nitrous Express recommends “Engine operating temperature should be between 160 and 200 degrees prior to nitrous usage.” http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/stage1.pdf I also like their comment “In conclusion…”
The earlier stated 180 degree thermostat fit’s nicely into this operating range without all the well documented shortcomings of a 160 degree unit..

I once stood in a room of 14 people ages 16 to 40+ years all convinced of Nitrous Oxide’s explosive nature. I held a flame to the outlet of a ten pound nitrous bottle as I cracked the valve. The sudden hiss made the entire room jump as they were all prepared for a huge fireball. Of course the non-flammable vapor only extinguished the flame and my demonstration and later revelation of the lack of a hydrocarbon among the nitrogen and the oxygen present was met with many nods as their long misconceived notions were dispelled. My point is that just because a room full (or large number) of people stand around and agree on a subject, that in it’s self does not make them correct.
I worked as an automotive technician for almost twenty years. Never did a week go by that I did not need argue some myth that had been disseminated to a customer or colleague by a self-proclaimed expert of some sort or another. The Internet while becoming a wealth of information has also exacerbated the spread of misinformation as well.

You can take this information and learn from it, or bury your head in the sand and ignore it, I'll argue it no further.

 

You can post up all the stupid links you want and give graphs from the late 70's early 80's that invovle carbeurated cars with no way of metering the fuel entering the engine all you want. The bottom line is you're not thinking if you think having an engine at full temp is going to help it survive under nitrous. You fail to listen to the one single point I made, the nitrous is going to GREATLY increase the temprature on the pistons causing them to swell into there "fully heated" state. Have you ever even ran nitrous? If so how far did you push the limits on it? BTW you should also realize that a 160 degree Tstat installed in our cars with the fans allowed to run full time will usually run the car between 180 and 190 degrees.

 

There are so many different opinions in this thread that the original poster is probably more confused now than before starting it.

"Never go before 3000 rpms . . . use it off the line all the way down . . . don't forget a window switch . . . you don't need a window switch or all that fancy stuff . . . go with colder plugs and retard your timing . . . just keep it stock with the small shot, no need . . . . colder t-stat is better . . . no, you need a stock t-stat . . . . blah, blah, blah"

Hell I'm even confused.

This is my suggestion . . . call the freakin' nitrous company yourself and talk to a tech guy.