not done just yet but im getting there









sorry about the crappy pics but i had to use a webcam on my laptop to get pics,once i get my reg digicamera back ill take some better pics.

 

looks pretty good, best of luck to ya with those

 

thnx man
forgot to mention i made those out of 316 stainless tubing. 1.5 inch primarys .065 wall thickness with a 3 inch collector,i even made the collectors myself.
i relocated my alt up a lil higher.and on the driver side i got rid of my ac compressor and mounted my ps pump up top were the ac used to be.

i have plenty of room on both sides of the motor to fit 3 inch down pipes doing what i did.im just not looking foward to buying all the 3 inch stainless to build the downpipes and finish up the rest of the system.lol i got away cheap on the headers, i had the elbows and tubing laying around so they didnt cost me anything

 

You are quite the fabber! They do look nice.

 

cool. those are a lot cleaner looking than my set came out! looks like about the same design, though.

 

yeah theres only so much room to fit them in there, i tucked the pass side nice and tight,but i had to kick the driver side out and on a downward angle a lil bit so i could fit 3 inch down pipes on either side

 

Are the down pipes going around your a-arms like your origional y-pipe/downpipe did?

 

nope downpipes go in in the stock locations now.no more under k-member for me.lol i can finally drop the car 1 inch now to get rid of my fender gap over the tires

 

I was thinking of using pacesetters and just putting them on the opposite sides (kind of like the SBC guys putting their shorty headers upside-down to use turbos). This way I could do the same and use the stock y-pipe location for the down pipe(s).

You going to be selling these?

You might want to add some support for the wieght of the turbos on the ends of those.

 

i may.though in stainless its gonna be exspensive,just for the hell of it im gonna have to figure out the material cost.i alreay know if i end up selling any of these it will prolly be in mild steel

 

Stainless flanges (1/2") to steel tubes is what 83CrossfireTA says, and judging from his work he is a good metalurgist.

You know the time to make them equal length would be worth the effort also.

 

lol i was not taking the time to make equal lenght headers,that and there just wasnt enough room to make them and to still be able to run the downpipes liek i want to.besdies witht he turbo(s) on ther it wont know the diff.

my whole new system is stainless from the head flanges to the turbo,i was gonna do mild steel flanges but then they would rust,and also welding mild steel to stainless isnt as strong as stainless to stainless

 

If it ferrous stainless it should be OK, but it will be tested, as my WG flange is ferrous SS and the pipe going from the WG to the Dpipe is steel.

And I will beg to differ on the difference between equal length headers and log/tube style headers. I will have to dig up the info, but it can be quite a few HP (like porting heads).
----------
Here is a link to an actual test that saw 50HP on a Honda...
Log vs. Equal length (click here)

 

the headers i didnt arent log headers

 

Of course there's going to be a difference between a log MANIFOLD and tube HEADERS.

When comparing eaqual length to non-equal length headers, there is not that great of a difference. Besides, equal length generally, are tuned for a very narrow power band, while non-equal length generally have a broader power band.

 

That was the difference between a log header and equal length header, low boost.
Here is an example of the difference between log manifold and equal lenth header at HIGH boost...
Full race header on a VW 1.8t (click here)

EDIT: The VW saw a 100HP increase. Dave, I'm not trying to knock your work, but these were dynoed (I could just imagine how long they would take to build).

 

What im not getting from you're argument is that Dave's arent Log style..they primaries are just different lenths, which has nothing to do with the point you're trying to make...

 

Not trying to argue, learn more is all. All the literature I have read tells me that equal length headers that are tuned for resonance will escape the exhaust gasses quicker and more efficently while using the vacating gasses to help pull the intake charge in the chamber faster. The origional place I found this information is down for the moment, so these links is all I could find quickly.

 

Fab works looks nice! Will the hood clear the alternator mounted up so high? To clear my wastegates (off the front of the Gale Banks iron manifolds), I had to move my power steering pump down, alternator up & closer to the center, mounted an idler on the drivers side head, and a tensioner to the pass side of the waterpump. Now that's all out the window, since I'm putting on a different water pump.

 

Equal length is not as paramount as header companies would have you believe. Again, as I said previously, equal length headers are great for a very narrow power band, which in reality has to be tuned to the peak powr band of the engine itself before the headers, so it would take a lot of testing and re-testing and many headers later to get it perfect.
Now use non-equal length headers and it has a much broader power band, due to the different lengths tuning each cylinder to a different area of the power band, and will actually make for a much more street drivable vehicle, due to this wider power band.

Now when you add a turbo to the mix, since the intake is under pressure there is no need for the header tuning to assist pulling the new intake charge in, in fact that can hurt performance, since it may pull the clean intake charge and fuel right through the cylinder, wasting fuel and having a lower effciency. Which is just another reason a turbo cam has less overlap, to help prevent this "overshooting" of the intake charge.

Now looking back at exhaust flow, while yes the headers will work better than a manifold, there is a higher pressure in the turbo header than an N/A header, provided both systems are optimized, due to the restiction of the turbine section of the turbo, which makes the increased flow less effective, but is still good for cylinder evacuation.

 

yeah the hood just clears,the alt isnt as high as it looks really,the upper intake manifold isnt on that motor,it sits about 3 inches higher then the alt

 

and this shoudl go well with the new headers

garret gt40r

 

Wooot, Wooot!

 

Dave, I'm glad to see your upgrade on your turbo! What trim did you get, and it appears to be new?

I was planning the exhaust side of my turbo today and realized that I would like to keep my A/C. Do you think the compressor could be moved up enough to clear those headers?

 

i dont have that turbo just yet,im still bidding on it,ends tommorow.

no to use the headers liek i built them u have to ditch the ac,otherwise they wont fit past the ps pump,well they will fit past it but u wont have room for the downpipe

 

Backwards…. Mild steel flanges with stainless tubes works best. Stainless expands with heat at almost 2x the rate as mild steel, and one piece header flanges are one big long piece that will affect things more then the anything else. Header tubes will sort of self compensate for expansion and contraction (they’re thin and flexible relative to a heavy flange or a head…), but in extreme cases you may want to consider some allowance for motion.

Equal length means just about nothing with turbo headers… hell, you know all the stuff you know about designing headers for an NA engine? Throw it all away when designing turbo headers. At this point I’ll even tell you that you’re wasting your time with tubular headers unless it’s a packing or appearance thing. It’s all about keeping the flow going one way, having as little surface area as possible and retaining as much heat as possible with a turbo(s)

 

That's even better for Dave's situation.
It's the heavy guage SS that you were waiting on, right Dave?

 

yeah its .065 wall 316lL stainless tubing. i made my flanges from stainless as well, except i dont have one big flange. each tube has its own flange. also u cant see it in the pics but the tubes are welded together in a few places to help stop flexing.

im still debating on poilishing the hell out of them, or sending them out to get coated