Right now summit is running a deal on edelblock performer nitrous system where you get a jacket with your order… yea yea I kno big whoop… anyway I would appreciate it if you would chime in and tell me if this is a good starter set up… it would b for a stock 305…. I want it because it comes with 50, 75 and 100 hp levels… if there is a better deal or better kit let me kno…..

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&y=12&x=34

 

Buy my bottle warmer kit and nitrous guage which are good to have with any nitrous setup, mine are still new in box and I never had a chance to use them (PM me if interested)

And for a basic 75-100 shot, that kit should be good.

 

wut size is the guage???

 

Heres a pic. I dont know what you mean by size, but the part number is NEX-15509 and NOS-14164NOS at summit. I have no use for either and dont intend to use spray for a while. I'll sell you both for $140 shipped to where ever you are, I just dont need them, PM me if interested.

 

it looks like a good deal, but i dont even kno wut that gauge is for... and when i asked for the ize i thought it was for like a dash gauge and i wanted to kno if it would fit in my piller pod...

like i said im a noob to nos....

 

Thats a pretty good kit to start out with especially for a 305 since it has 50-100 shot.you can get a dynotune bottle heater for way cheaper than that...and that guage goes right after the bottle valve. You can get the dynotune round one that goes in the pillar pod for about $160. Dont forget to also get a fuel pressure safety switch, and a window switch

 

Anywhere I can go to find a write up on NOS, that will help me to understand it better????

 

www.howstuffworks.com

 

The dynotune heater kit sells for $109 plus shipping. My guage is an inline one that usually gets put just after the bottle. I said I would sell you both, the heater and guage, for $140 shipped. Thats a good deal, especially for new stuff.

 

yea i kno i looked stuff up... 140 would b a good deal, dont get me wrong... but i think what wheels up was trying to say that for a person just geting into nos that there is a cheaper way to go, to make it more afordible...

 

Not a bad deal. Harris speed works sells a heater with everything you need for $115. I am on the market for a heater, I already have a gauge like that. If you can beat that price PM me.

Sorry never mind. i am not interested. It is thermostat controlled. I am only looking for pressure controlled heaters. Sorry about the mix up.

 

thx's 4 the link wheels i found some good reading with that link, and now im looking for even more...

 

Yes, I could beat that price, but why does everyone want to have a pressure controlled instead of a temperature controlled?

Temp controller heaters seem better because the bottle doesn’t have to be open to heat the nitrous, and I see no other reason to go pressure controlled, is it more accurate? I don’t see it being that much more accurate, what makes them better?

 

They are better because they actually monitor the ACTUAL bottle pressure. Where as the temperature only gives an IDEA of what is going on inside there. What about the environment, if all of a sudden the bottle is in direct sunlight, that thermostatically controled unit will not want to turn on, even if the bottle pressure is not optimal, where as the pressure sensative controller would be ready and fired up.

Just think of it this way...

What is it you want to monitor? --------------- N20 Pressure

Do you want to monitor it directly or passively-- directly

Whats the only way to do that-----------------pressure controlled heater.

Temp heaters are like saying I want to measure what the temp is outside and instead of sticking a thermometer out there, you put a manometer outside and hope that the density of the air will be the same every day and therefor let you make that correlation.

It is better to look directly at something instead of passively through some other means.

Hope that helps. Oh and another thing. The second you use the N20 and it falls bellow ideal pressure, the heater will turn on. Where as the temp set up, has to take time to have the outside of the bottle change temp due to the lack of N20, then finally fire up.

not ideal to say the least.

-Dennis

 

So, its more accurate. I see how its more accurate and see that as being the biggest advantage over temp controlled. I dont think alot of people will have things like the sun*(or other outside sources) control the temp, especially since the temp sensor is directly touching the bottle. It will keep the pressure at the necessary level just a good as a pressure controlled heater. This is because the temp and pressure will drop at the same time, when the n2o leaves the bottle, they would both turn on at the same time. One would not take longer than the other unless one had a better heater.

In conclusion for the original poster, the pressure controlled heaters are more accurate than a temp controlled one. This is because the proper temp will change slightly depending on how full the tank is, as where the pressure controlled ones always measure the pressure, thus making it more accurate. For someone who is getting into huge shots, the temp controlled heaters in the past had been cheaper than pressure controlled heaters, but still very effective for a novice user. So if you plan to use the spray a lot and for big shots, pressure controlled is good for you, other wise, a temp controlled will do just fine.

 

Everything you said is just about true. The only thing that I want to comment on is the fact that the temp WILL NOT go down as soon as the N20 is used. It may change soon, but def will not change right away. As stated above, for a novice user, who cares right... At least for me, I like building all the parts on my car the very best way i can. I would never use a temp controlled heater. I also would never put a cast ANYTHING in my motor, just cuz I know forged is stronger. I don't mind saving up for a while before I buy things. but thats all just the way I do things. Good luck to you.

-Dennis

 

Thanks for the nice reply and no flame war. The only thing else I will say is that neither will be able to correct the pressure through heat, the pressure will turn on sooner but the run will be over by the time your down the track, and by the time you gt back up to the front to run again, both will have the bottle.

to Burn0ut350, if your a novice, PM me and I will make you an offer that beats all, I dont plan on runing with the spray for a while, so I need to sell this stuff.

Cameron

 

ill think about it, i need to do more reshearch b4 i buy anything tho.... but if u make me a deal i cant refuse im sure ill buy it, like say $70 shiped... haha sry i like to wheel and deal on things...

 

Buy the kit.

The silly warmer and stuff that is not required. They are wants, to make sure you squeeze out every last drop of juice. On a hot day in the summer you will not need the warmer anyways.

You want to invest in making the kit safe.

Buy the kit, buy a gauge, then buy a fuel pressure safety switch. They are $35. You run it after the regulator or fuel pump and when pressure drops below 4 PSI it will cut off the circuit for your nitrous solenoid.

They make FI ones too for however much psi you are looking for.

Also, a Revlimiter does wonders.

This is what I use for protection for my system

MSD 6AL (for rev limiter)
MSD Timing Computer ( To cut timing to prevent detonation for nitrous use)
Holley Fuel pressure safety switch (4-7 Psi)
WOT Switch
Dual stage window switch
Second fuel pump and dual fuel solenoid.

I guess I am a little OCD about the safety, but I have entirely too much money invested and what you are trying to do is prevent yourself from running lean.

I am not saying you need the above. I think you need the Fuel pressure safety switch above all. If you start to lean, the switch kills the nitrous.

Once you start getting a feel for the bottle, then start buying the odds and ends, like bottle warmers, remove bottle openers. etc.

Good luck dude.

In the world of bolt ons, nitrous is king.

 

thx's nelapse that was just wut i was looking for...

 

That kit is fine dude seriously, buy the fuel pressure switch and have a blast. The gauge isn't really important either when you think about it. It does not tell you how much nitrous you have, just the PSI, the only way to know how much nitrous you have is to weigh the bottle empty, then weigh how much you have left. You have 5 lb difference then you are half full. Got me?

Most people with nitrous just buy the kits as is and take them out. They come with everything you need to do it. The Fuel switch should not be optional, $35 will be the best safety device you own.

 

where does the fuel pressure safety switch go???

 

Here is the part

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


Here is the instructions

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...a5089-snos.pdf

Here is some Schematics of my system you can use for reference.





These are my old schematics, I am currently creating new ones that show my entire nitrous electrical circuits. Everything including MSD6AL and Timing computer.

 

thanks that helped a lil, but it confuses me as well

 

Yours will be alot simpilier than that. Here are the edelbrock instructions for the kit you want.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ernitrouss.pdf

Follow the easy schematics and you are set. You just have an arming switch, two solenoids and a WOT switch. Easy does it.

Add in the Fuel switch and you have it made.

 

hey that great dosnt look hard at all..... i think i can handel it now...

 

Hey is it bad to run the safety switch right off the regulator? I have a seperate reg. for the N20 aff my fuel line. It is just a simple Holly, that has 2 exit ports. 1 I run to the solenoid and the other I run the safety switch. Is this OK?

When I tested the fuel to see if it would all work, I kinda sputtered. Is that normal? Or was that maybe the pressure dropping and the safety switch coming on?

Thanks

 

Mine is directly after the regulator. I think the instructions suggests it, I cannot remember.

Theoretically you want the pressure switch as close to the fuel solenoid as possible incase of pressure changes. I really do not see a problem with after the regulator.

If you have two exit ports or whatever, just make sure it is in the N20 circuit only and does not get biased fuel from the engine circuit. It would be unwise to have one for the Solenoid and one for the Switch. This switch is your last hope you need to make sure it gets no false indications. For example

You have two ports one inlet.

One port Solenoid, one port with a line and a dead end.
You set it for 7 PSI, the port with the line and dead end will always get 7 PSI, the pressure is constant and no variables are at play.

The other line has flow. You turn the ignition key on and look at your gauge 7 PSI, turn the car on. Now you have 5 PSI, but your fuel switch thinks you have 7PSI.

See my point?

As for the sputtering, you must not have had enough PSI

 

Yeah I guess not. Maybe I will mount the switch directly before the fule solenoid somehow. Or very close to it. i think my idea of the other port is not really working. I think I am turning the switch on and off.

I know I have enough fuel flow though. I have a pump that flows 250 GPH, I think. I can look it up, but no need. It is a holly volumax pump, the non-race one. So I know it is flowing enough from the tank. All lines are 8-AN and there are no 90* fittings exept where the fuel for the N20 taps into the main feed line from the tank. That is set to about 7.2 for the carb. I guess I will have to trouble shoot some more before I try the spray for real.

Thanks for the help.

-Dennis

 

Well i bought my dynotune heater off ebay for $60 new, all you really need is the heater element. the relay, wire and toggle switch can be had ANYWHERE for less than $50 that they charge you for. Also the inline pressure guage is kind of pointless, unless you have the bottle right next to you, otherwise you would have to walk to the trunk and look at it to see if you need to turn the heater on, and then you have to keep checking on it so you dont over heat it. The piller mounted electrical guage is honestly the way to go.

And Dennis, as Nelapse was saying, you deffinatly want the switch on the same line as close to the solenoid as you can get. i put the adapter for the switch directly into the solenoid.

 

.....

 

Will do. Thanks for the advice. i am installing a digital 6 box, MSD billet dizzy and a matching coil today. Then maybe this weekend I can get around to changing some of that N20 stuff. THEN FINALLY, after almost 4 months of having the car running, I will get to try it out. Thanks again.

PS- You say you went with the electrical gauge. Only problem is that its $200, while mech. one I want is only $77, then I just have to run a gauge fitting and some line. Def less than the $130 difference. I currently have a gauge mounted under the hood. One of the little useless ones. i wanna install a nice 2 5/8 one right next to my fuel pressure. The 2 pressures right next to each other I think will be nice for tunning.

For a 150 shot, I would pull 6 degrees right?

 

Dennis, You're idea on the pressure guage is good, IF you run the guages outside the car, i dont like the idea of mechanical guages mounting in the cabin (fuel, oil, nitrous etc) But i fyou had them cowl-mounted then that would be a MUCH more cost effective alternative. And yes on a 150 shot start with 6* retarded, and then try it. Check the plugs If they look good put another degree back in and try again. Also if it looks rich/lean adjust the fuel jets accordingly. And if you're JUST testing out the kit, start with maybe a 75 shot (if it goes that low) just to make sure everything is operating and then go up from there. No sense in starting with the biggest shot you plan on using right off the bat, especially if something goes wrong.

 

Yeah, i hear that about the starting shot. Only problem is that the kit I got, the smallest is 150, haha. Goes in 25 HP inrcrements up to 250 I think. I would really wanna start with 100, but oh well. The motor is fully forged and strong, And I will be super carefull, I think I will be OK.


Hey really random side question, what is the fastest way to get a set of TALL style valve covers? Napa? AutoZone? a Speedshop? My rockers are hitting my valve covers again, and I need taller VC, and there is a show I want to go to tomorrow!!!

 

hmm im not sure if you're local parts store will sell tall ones off the shelf or not, you can check it out. You could try to double stack the gaskets, but it might leak so i dont know if you want that if you're going to a show!

And get on the horn with jegs or summit and buy pair of jets for a 75 shot, it'll cost like 8 bucks and is well worth it to make sure everything is in working order. Detonation doesnt care how forged you're motor is

 

Just go to a parts store and get a set of some really thick gaskets to get you by. I know of no store that stock tall style covers just regular.

 

Yeah. i guess I will overnight some tall covers. Thing that pisses me off is that I bough some $150 die cast aluminum ones that are listed as tall and my rockers still hit!!! These trickflow roller rockers are big, but damn. First the oil drippers had to be filled down a bit, but now other parts are gitting! I am so pissed. I tried to do some grinding myself, but nope. still hits a bit. When the dyno shop did it, the grinded the oil drippers and they said that they needed to re-align my lifters or something. i was kinda confused, but I hope I don't have to do that again. Either way I am going to go get dyno tunned again soon. Right after I get my new ignition in. Maybe I should just get some cheap stamped steel tall covers. Maybe the thin material and no oil drippers will give me the clearance I need. I can't imagine trying to get a girdle on under any vavle covers now. i am so lost.

I guess i will try to stack gaskets till then. A little leak will be OK, if it happens.

 

on afr heads, with comp pro-magnum 1.6 RR's and a Stud girdle these VC's dont hit the rockers.. and awesome priced too! i love em
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/76737...SBC-Block.html

 

I have center bolt heads which makes the VC's double sometimes triple the price.

 

WOW, nice price! I would buy those if only I could get them today. Damn. Oh well. i called a local speed shop, called speed shack and they don't have any in store but they do have tall ones 20 minute drive away. So looks like i am going to pick some up from the local warehouse. They will be some cheep morosos or something. I bookmarked that page though, as I will def pic up a set of those fabbed ones over the winter or something when I start spending all me $ making the car look cool, since there is no driving in the winter months for me here in MA.

 

Glad to hear that you can get them in time. Let us know how they work out

 

Hey burnout350, I just finished installing this exact kit on my pretty plain 85-z 305. I hope to give it its first shot this week sometime I'll make sure I keep you updated on it.

 

Is it worth using a MSD boost timing master with nitrous??? It's exactly like a 6al box w/ rev limiter and has a boost timing retard. Or would it be better to get the 6AL and use something like a basic adjustable timing control???