OK so I have a forged 386. It is got a forged crank rods and pistons, with trickflow heads and a 750 Holley DP. I have a huge cam that has too much overlap so that needs to go. I want to pull my motor, have the cam pulled, install a blower friendly cam, install a blower, centrifugal style so I can still run my Cervini 3" hood, and make around 500-550 RWHP. I run a T-56 that I can get rebuilt when it blows and I already have a Moser 12 bolt, 31 spline axles and all that. I also have enough fuel for this setup too. Fuel cell, big pump and all that.

So with that said, are there any tried and true cam and blower combos that are known to work great for the street on a carb? This will just about never be at the track, at least for a few years. All street. So I need the power down low,

Any help would be great. Thanks!

 

A comp 274 xtreme blower grind should work well. What is your CR? 550 to the rear wheels should be do-able on about 10 lbs if your car puts 375 to the rear wheels NA.

 

The CR is not really known. I think it is around 10:1

I am going to have the whole motor taken appart and built back up with the intent of having it get ready for boost. I can change it to whatever I want since I don't care if I have to swap pistons. I want to keep my forged crank and rods. I would be great to keep pistons, but I understand if they have to go.

I just want to make around 550 at the wheels with maybe some room to grow in the future. Or just shoot for 600 and call it a day with this car, or motor.

I just want tried and true specs for a blower, CR and cam setup that will get me there with the Trickflow heads that I have. They are the Kenny Dewinter AL heads that they make, pretty generic AL SBC heads. Nothing crazy fancy.

Hope that gives more insight into what kind of advice I am looking for.

Thanks again for any help.

-Dennis

 

You could run the same pistons but get a larger chamber head and use a thicker cometic or felpro mls head gasket. I would say to stay in the 9:1 ratio for a good balance between off boost power and boosted power. With 9:1 you could very easily run 10psi which should put you close to 550rwhp

 

I know I could swap heads, but I would rather swap pistons as I think this would cost less $. But I will need to research this further to conclude that.

 

What are the specs of that cam you don't want to run? I ran my motor with the 500hp trick flow top end kit at summit with 10psi and made 10.4's. That cam broke and I went with my current cam 264/271 dur. @ .050 .626/.626 on I think a 114 degree LSA to get some 10.0's and a 9.9. At that point it dynoed 633rwhp/472rwtq through a 700r4 trans. Also, a D-1SC should be fine for that. Before I sold mine I ran 10:1 compression on 10psi, and maxed it out with 8.5:1 compression and 15psi.

 

Here is the cam I am using. DEF not gonna be a good SC cam. Tons of overlap. most of my boost would go out the tailpipe. I also don't want this thing to be a screamer. 100% street, so I want all my power bellow 5500 and most of my TQ around 2500RPM.

 

I'm gonna need a magnifying glass!!! The lobe sep plays a big role, some of your roots guys will run as tight as 110.

 

Please reffer to my car domain site to see the real pic. I have no idea why it is so small here.

Sorry.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/782913/18

 

bump....

I will do some more searching to see what other people have as setups in the Power Adder section, I just want to make sure the power comes on nice down low. I also would prefer to stick with a SC as opposed to tubos just because I like my hookers 2210s and 4" cat-back. A turbo setup would need all that changed. A SC pushing a ton of air would love that exhaust though.

Want to shoot for about 650RWHP. What should I be looking into? O-ringed block?

 

Well you're using the same heads/cam I was running 10.4's on 10psi. The bigger cam got me 10.0's, lower compression and 15psi got me 9.5's. I don't really try too much to target RWHP numbers because even though I dropped 1/2 second from my 1/4-mile and gained 3-4 mph, the dyno went the wrong way to show 45-50rwhp LESS than before.

 

Wow, thats very interesting!!! Thanks for the insight.

How streetable was the setup though? I want to be able to just cruise with it since I will REALLY rarely go to the track even those are the #s I am looking to be able to achive. Anywhere in the 10s. Lets say Mid 10s. I have a moser 12 bolt with 4.10s and the standard 31 spline axles. That is matted to a chromoly driveshaft. From there I have a stock T-56 from a 93 T/A. I know that will need to be beefed up but I have found some places that charge about a $1200 to make it be able to handle 900+ hp so that is what I will do. Then there is the motor.... If I can use my block, heads, crank, rods, intake.... Then I think I am in great shape changing the rest.

Obviously send out my holley 750 DP to get SC ready, then new head gaskets, new pistons, cam and maybe springs and other small parts.... With of course the purchase of the supercahrger, lol. I think I will be pretty much there.

Please any insight if I am thinking off track on anything so far. I might ask for VERY specific specs of your car fast82z when it was running 10s. 9s are crazy cool but I don't see me being able to sit in traffic for too long in a car that can run 9s. lol.

Fill me in.

AND THANKS!!!

 

If you're going to mostly street drive the car, I'd definitely use some other cam. Something in the upper 220's or lower 230's duration should have much better street manners over the 246 you have now. There are quite a few variables as far as power/e.t. goes, but I'd plan on needing 15 psi to keep a smaller cam still running mid 10's. A custom cam would be the best way to maximize driveability and power by keeping the lift high with the smaller duration. I had Bullet Racing Cams make me one for basically off the shelf cam prices, and are currently tweaking it for better turbo capabilities. The heads probably have the 1.460" OD double valve springs that are good for .600" lift, so the closer to that you can get the better either by way of the cam or higher ratio rockers. A compression ratio of 9:1 should work nicely to leave some room for a little extra boost, but you could go as high as 9.5:1 and still run an intercooled 15psi on pump gas. A D-1SC could supply enough air to make the 15psi, but if budget allows I've seen others do a neat little trick. You buy an oversized blower and have it pullied to run say 5+psi more than what you want and put a wastegate on the charger pipe to bleed off the extra air to bring it down to the desired boost level. Big bennefit of this is that you'll run higher boost at lower rpms and make more low-end power than a normal setup.

 

dennis anytime your ready i'll give a price on that charger for ya

 

fast thanks for getting back to me.

That not so common setup seems to be really interesting, but I think I would like to stick with blowers the size of the D1SC. 15 PSI seems like a good place to start. I will definetly be running an intercooler.

I want to stay away from custom cams, I just want my next build to be a tried and true setup that I can just make a carbon copy of so I know EXACTLY how much HP I will be getting from it. I guess I will keep searching google, here and stuff till I can find an exact match, then copy it as close as possible with some parts that I have already.

tom, I will keep you in mind. I may be buying a used one from a friend, but if you can get my a quote, that would be great.

I shop around like a mad man, till I know I am getting the best deal possible.

 

dennis do you want everythign polished or satin ?? polished will be $$$$$$$ and do u need the fmu unit and extra fuel pump?? if not that can save you some money too

 

satin is fine. I don't need an extra fuel pump or fmu.

 

Bump, still looking for info on proven setups. I will keep searching the power adder threads, but thought this would be a good way to find info in parallel. Thanks!