Hi, I was planning on putting a single turbo on my 305 tbi. I am converting to tpi to do it. Just had a few questions before doing it.

I have a 350 block that i will build for after I get everything working correctly. I was wondering about some factors that go into it. First my idea was to run a single turbo vortec heads and a better cam with around 10 lbs of boost. Now for the questions. How much can the stock bottom end handle on our camaros hold. How much torque can the stock rearends and transmission hold (T5). And this is for a new person to turboing, how hard is it to figure out megasquirt?
And off subject I remember a while back i found a website that showed diferent ways for our exhausts to be ran for single and dual exhausts. I have dual exhaust right now that me and my friend did but I really dont like the way it sits so was just trying to see some other ways people have ran it.

 

So you are going to start with the 305? It should hold 10 psi easily with good tune. Thats not a whole lot. Healthy but not overkill for stock bottom end. Tune has to be good and safe because cast pistons dont like detonation with high cylinder pressures.

No idea on megasquirt but several guys here using it. They can chime in.

Tranny may not like the power. No hard launches and it may last awhile. Same with the rear. I push the limits on the stock 10 bolt in my car I guess, over 650whp and 9 second slips and it never broke. 150 shot launches in the 1.41 60 foot range the year before and it never broke. Finally chipped a spider gear but thats it. Some get lucky, some dont. I know a few guys who run very well on stock rears, some break them with bolt ons.

 

You won't have any problem with 10 psi on the stock block. In fact I'm getting ready to try for 18 psi on my stock 144k mile block. Might not work out so well but we'll see. I've ran just under 10 psi for almost a year with no problems.

The Megasquirt has a bit of a learning curve, mostly in getting the initial setup. Things such as parts of the circuit you can choose to leave out or add in (if you're building it yourself), various choices of the code version you can run, various tuning software options and some areas of the documentation are lacking with either vague or dated information. Overall it is quite easy to tune once you get the car running. I'm still learning things after a year.

If you start with the 305 and move to the 350, it's going to be difficult to choose a turbo that will work perfectly with both engines. If you're on a budget, I'd suggest sizing the turbo for the 305 and going with an Ebay turbo. I've had great service out of mine. Once you get the 350 ready to go in, consider running a higher quality turbo at that point and of course size it for whatever combo you end up with at that time.

Check my page below for details on my single TPI setup.. good luck with your project, it's totally worth the trouble!

 

thanx astro. I have actually read your whole build log and thats what made me wanna do a single turbo instead of twin. Ur numbers were about all i was looking for in my inicial set up. Later on I plan to build a monster but that is way down the road when I can afford to. Still a college kid trying to make it on minimum wage and student loans. I eventually plan on getting a t56 trans and a 12 bolt rearend and eventually putting forged bottom end and a better top end. I dont think i will ever try to go past 500 hp though. I still havent decided what turbo to go with.
btw astro when i looked at ur build log idk if i missed it or not but what headers did you use for the turbo one and what exhaust are you using. I have dual 2.5 right now ending at my rear end with glass packs but I want to redo it as it sits too low right now. I cant even drive it to my dads house because it catches on the exhaust so bad that it actually broke the welds last time i went down it. I posted on your update also asking about how much you think you spent on your whole setup.

 

O and I just remembered my friend told me he had just a spare T3 turbo off a nissan. Would that suffice for my first build with the 305 for about 8-10 psi?

 

The turbo manifold is a log style. I believe it's an old Banks manifold but no one seems to know for sure. I got it with a complete setup many years ago from Ebay for around $300 or so. I never used it and my friend ended up with it. He only used the downpipe and turbo and stuck the rest in storage. When I got the Iroc he just gave the rest to me. So I ended up with the manifold, crossover pipe, airbox and wastegate for no cost.

It would be easy to build a similar manifold.. check my site for closeup pics of the manifold.

How much do I have in it? Well I got a lot of free stuff from a friend such as the 2 bolt flanges for the exhaust, plus the 3" catback system (although I did replace the muffler and tail pipes), free 65# injectors, free 3" tubing for the downpipe, plus the above mentioned manifold/crossover/wastegate and I went cheap in every way possible. For example, I pulled some favors to get additional exhaust and cold air tubing locally at cost for less than I could order it for. I built the Megasquirt myself to save. I picked up the MSD 6AL used from craigslist, from a friend as it turns out, so I got an extra good deal on that too! Ok so with those freebies I have roughly $1800 in it before the intercooler project. The price includes the whole exhaust system, megasquirt, PLX wideband O2/Boost gauge, an LT1 starter, turbo system, ignition upgrades and cold air/filter setup. Still need to upgrade the fuel pump and I haven't touched the engine yet. For the intercooler project, between the intercooler, piping, BOV flange, silicone couplers and cost of all metal to build brackets I have around $450 in it. I went cheap cheap cheap too, except for some of the silicone which was nice quality stuff. So basically I have $2250 in the turbo setup and I have about $2000 in the car itself (until I grenade the transmission with this new boost). Of course that's with some great freebies, so it could have easily cost $1000 more for the turbo setup.. and I was very fortunate on picking up the car so cheap.

 

so in that price you didnt include the freebies? This is a little more than i thought but I knew this wasnt going to be a quick job i completely expected over a year into this job because of the money involved in it. I heard there might be a person around here that will tune the vehicle for you. That should save some money in the tuning pieces and trips to the dyno to get it tuned.
Its going to be a while before I can even get started. Im living in an apartment right now for the next 3 to 4 months then getting a house when lease is up so once I get moved in to where I can use my garage It will just be planning and saving. Im really looking for drivability out of the project tho because right now my car is just so unreliable but since I basically am doing everything from ground up I should be able to fix that problem.
Once then engine is done it will be time to fix my body and get it painted.

 

Got another possible dumb question. How big of injectors will i need to run about 10-12 psi max on that? And say i buy bigger than what I need is that a bad thing?

 

For a stock 305 on 10-12 psi, 24-30lb injectors is all you really need. Your looking at 400-425 hp give or take which is 330 ish at the wheels? maybe abit more. 24's should handle that especially at abit higher pressure than stock.

This depends because a TBI motor i think got a baby cam compared to the TPI motors. I assume 235-240hp stock 305 and then 10-12 psi. If your less than 200hp on that motor, then 10-12 psi may only get you 350-375 hp.

You probably could get 42's to work on that setup and beable to use them down the road to probably near 600-650hp

If you do this right, you should not have much money into the setup.

A simple mild steel log manifold anyone can make will only cost around 150 bucks in materials if that. Then you need a cross over tube. For a budget build, you can reuse the stock exhaust manifold on the other side of the motor and then run simple 2.5" pipe down the backside of the motor to the other side. I assume you'd mount turbo on passenger side as there is more room if you dont have AC. Join the pipes together on a T4 flange. Find a spot to have waste gate tube exiting and allow you to put the exhaust back into the downpipe.

Thats the hardest part is just mapping out the location of the turbo and joining downpipe to wastegate.

IF you could find a BBS designs single turbo manifold, you'd be all ready to go. Just need a cross over tube and then plumb the wastegate exit to the downpipe wherever it may lay.

Master power turbo for 550-600 bucks is all you need. T64 would work well. T70 for later 350 build that can support over 500whp just about. Mustang guys use that on their 5.0's and run 9's on some of them. Wastegate, JGS 40mm for 225. Tial blowoff for 200 or shop around to find used parts.

You may beable to do it on the cheap.

I probably only have 3500 in my complete twin turbo setup. Its nothing special, kinda budget but works. Thats complete from manifolds to turbos/wastegates/flanges to downpipes to coldside piping and intercooler I do believe.

 

Thanx for all your guys help. Im reading a book completely about tubocharging and stuff. Really the part im worried about is the tuning now. My buddy is teaching me a lot about this stuff also. He is worried about the pipe connecting the two banks. He thinks running it down and around the back of the engine wont flow very well. Im going to read more into turbo setups since i still have plenty of time to figure out my set up!

 

There are a few areas where you can save money off of what I would have spent.. cheaper injectors, used exhaust tubing pieces from salvage yard, skip a few 2 bolt flanges (makes it a lot easier to take things on and off though with them), reuse factory harness and a cheaper O2/MAP gauge setup, but the numbers I came up with are pretty straight forward. Here is a budget build:

$ 250 Megasquirt II 3.0 diy kit
$ 300 ebay 60 mm turbo with extra v-band flange
$ 100 6AL (used)
$ 40 Battery relocate kit (very likely will need)
$ 100 Misc vbands and flanges
$ 125 Misc 3" 90 deg and 45 deg mandrel tubing for downpipe
$ 100 misc tubing, silicone and clamps to build turbo to throttle body pipe
$ 300 half way decent set of new 36lb injectors
$ 200 tubing/parts to make a turbo manifold and crossover pipe
$ 50 cheap wastegate (unless you get onboard wastegate)
$ 100 tubing and airfilter for cold air induction to turbo inlet
$ 50 misc heat barrier material such as plug wire boots near downpipe
$ 50 AN fittings and hose for oil return to pan or fuel pump blockoff plate
$ 30 header wrap for downpipe (you'll want it if keeping AC)
$ 100 turbo blanket (forgot to add that to my costs and you'll want it)
$ 30 used 2 or 3 bar map
$ 200 cheap wideband O2 and controller
-----------
$2225 for those items.. and I've left out mentioning those little $20 and $40 trips to the parts house, home depot and wherever for those little items you always need but never have laying around. Things like gasket sets when you destroy the 20 year old ones on your TPI intake replacing the injectors. Also note there is no fuel pump, intercooler, plug wires or exhaust past the cat included in that figure.

Definitely not trying to discourage you.. but this stuff does add up. Just like my $80 intercooler that I explained to my wife would cost $200 by the time I got the tubing and fittings. Well I have spent $100 at ace hardware for bolts, metal pieces, saw blades, etc. Then there was shipping, and I just had to have that fancy BOV pipe and some extra T-bands while I was at it. I went north of $400 on it so far.

 

Well some of the stuff we already have. And my buddy is wanting to make a (sorry for my newbish wording) the water style intercooling which we already have the intercooler for. He said we could probably find some decent junk yard injectors and use them? He has many ideas for turbos but doesnt want to use a chinese knock off. ( he works at a mopar restoration and performance shop so everything has to be NICE stuff for him) One of his ideas was grabing a turbo off a cummins and having it rebuilt and using that. I work at autozone so anything i can get from there i will and use my 20 percent discount. Im going to junkyard tomorow to start looking for parts for my tpi swap. I found some harnesses for about 20-50 bucks on ebay. Still havent decided what i am going to use for fuel pump. but ya thats where we are at for now.
O btw I dont have AC anymore that was the first thing i junked. I got T-Tops and for the most part thats about all you need for indiana weather (except this year.... 110 degree heat index today...)
Had another probably dumb question but what spark plugs does everyone run? I still am just running ac delco resister plugs. I didnt know if maybe I needed to up to platinum or maybe even irridium?

 

You could run a 91-92 TPI ecm which is speed density and run code $59 like i am using. Its modified syclone/typhoon turbo truck code but can control V8's just fine. Not all that bad to work with, but getting a base map for the motor is the tricky part. You could copy in a VE table from a 91-92 TPI 305 setup and then try to adjust the fuel injector base pulse width constant that the code $59 uses and get the motor running. From there it just takes time. Took me alittle while to figure it out but in the end it wasnt all that bad. Its the cheapest setup that can handle boost, provided you get an ecm with memcal for less than 150 bucks, because megasquirt is just abit more money

 

10 psi all day long. but anything over 15 mls head gaskets and arp head studs for sure. ive lifted the heads off cars before. no matter what boost u run a good tune is where the power is!.. people talk trash about ebay turbos, ive never had a problem. the reasons they crap out is from over working/spining the turbos them self.
from my expirence get a external waste gate. keep ur boost low good tune, make sure ur intercooler is a bar and plate not a tube and fin, and a good ingition set up. good fuel system,a good wide band!

mega squirt is awsome once u learn how to tune it. the best thing is to find a local tuner and get diffrent opinions, and find some one u trust.

ive done the junk yard builds they work good for a base build but once u want more u have to change it anyway. build it once build it right so u dont have to do it again.

ive had 650hp infront of my t5 with no problems, but i did not really beat on it, i blew the 10bolt eaton lsd before taking out the 5speed

and tell ur buddy that tying the pipes together works really good for the room u actally have.

 

well i pretty much am going to have to build this twice. Not completely but parcial. The 305 I have in it now is a little tired. But That was my point I wanted to build it succesfully on the 305 while i build my 350 with forged internals and all the good stuff on it. It seems like people really like the GT45 chinese rip so I might end up just going with that.

 

I just run standard AC Delco plugs, always have no matter what the engine setup is. Have had great results from my Ebay turbo and it looks great because the compressor housing came with a nice shiny silver coating. It's still in great shape and I run it hard and put it up hot.

If you decide to go with a Megasquirt, diyautotune has a really nice harness for around $50. Each wire is labeled every foot or so with its function. If you go code $59 on the other hand, then a factory harness is the way to go.

In-tank Walbro 255 fuel pump is a pretty standard way to go and relatively cheap too.

 

you guys are really helpful. I am so used to people bashing and flaming on forums but so far this has really helped me a lot.

Had a brain fart and just realized that if i wanted to go vortec heads i wouldnt be able to use a stock intake correct? So i either need to figure out a diferent set of cheap heads so i dont have to worry about that. Wether I use cody 59 or MS is going to be up to my friend. Cuz he is the one that knows about tuning. I really wish I lived in Ohio. I spent a week when I was younger learning in a shop called quickrev and im sure they would really be able to help me considering this is all they do but o well.

 

btw for the cheap 305 setup anyone know of any cars that injectors would work out of?

 

Late model LS1 injectors should work. They are rated at 26 for earlier years and 28 lbs after '00 I believe but at 58psi of fuel pressure. You'd have to bump up fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator to simulate that injector size. Should cover up over 400hp easily

 

well nothing of use at the junkyard as far as the tpi goes. \there definately wont be any ls engines in any around here for injectors. Im just going to slowly start buying certain things that Will be able to go in before the tubo build

 

btw just a little side not. One thing I will be doing is putting the camaro Psalm on the back window of the camaro. If you are a camaro fan and have not read it then google images and read the camaro psalm!

 

Starting to make my parts list.
Turbo GT45 ebay- $260
Injectors im going to try and use some junkyard ones if 24# injectors will work $50?
this fuel pump? ebay $79
then going to try and find just some stock tpi heads and maybe get a lil cam. Still trying to learn what kind of cams to use on turbos.
just going with like a cheaper intercooler so around $80 dollars.
Still dont know wether im going to use MS or not.

If you see something that i should change or just to give some advise please chime in

 

anyone know where you can find just passenger side turbo manifolds?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/High-...Q5fAccessories
anyone have any hands on experience with these? for the like 50 dollars less is it worth trying over a walbro?

 

I dunno on the fuel pump. On one hand, it's an area you don't want to take a risk in.. On the other, Walbro's seem to fail pretty often too. Personally, I would consider taking the savings and buying two of those pumps and running both at the same time or wire one to come on with boost. Just a thought.

As for me, I've got a Walbro 255 in-tank going in next but while the tank is down I'm also going to add a bung for an external pump, which I will Y in later. I don't think I'll need a second pump for my planned power level, but it's security that might come on during boost (megasquirt controlled) and certainly would come on if my in-tank fails and I'm stuck 300 miles from home.

 

Also, theWalbro 255's for GM are right at $100

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=380254156432

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1615

 

o ok i guess summit just likes to add a 29 dollar increase lol. well i will prob go with name brand then and get a walbro. as far as adding in a 2nd for when boost comes on and stuff idk if im that good at fabbing and electrical thats where my friend comes in handy. Im more of the wrench turner. I went to auto school for 3 years but all i liked to listen to was engine building and performance. Rest kinda just was there for lol.
Still hopeing this house comes thru i really need a garage so i can start pulling the motor putting in a new clutch and start the tpi swap. I want the car to run well on tpi before i even start the turbo process.

 

Becareful with buying walbros. There are alot of cheap look-a-likes out there that do not last long at all. Buy from a reputable Walbro dealer like Racetronix or someone.

 

ok might just get it thru summit then. got a guy in ohio that has a performance shop going to see if he can get me some deals.

 

Well decided im not going to go with a ebay turbo. Just saw my friends grenaded ebay turbo.

Was wondering if a holset hx35 turbo is too small for a stock 305 tpi. When i was searching people using them it was all in twin turbos people said they were too small for our engines but every engine that i found seemed to have had mild builds. this is a stock build and only looking for close to 300rwhp maybe less because i dont want to over push my transmission right away with the torque. Is this turbo still going to be too small?

 

A single HX35 should work ok just need to check the exhaust housing a/r. I thought they were .55 which is very small but some say they may go up over .96-1.1 a/r. Not sure, just need to check. The larger would be better for a single since those are around 60mm compressors I think.

 

im having trouble trying to figure out which turbo to use and im trying to teach myself to compressor maps now so i can read all this stuff but i heard there are no maps available for these?
I found one locally in craigslist thats why i asked he was wanting 200 for it and said if i wanted rebuilt he would rebuild it if i brought the kit. Just seems like everyone says these are too small but with a stock tpi motor i dont see why it would because its not like im making any power after 5k anyways lol. Once i got 350 i plan on getting a bigger turbo but i just figured for now this would work.

 

What size ebay turbo was it? What was the failure?

HX35 is mid-50mm or less. At around 10PSI of boost can support 37 lb/hr or roughly 370 BHP or 300 RWHP. Will it work for your stock 305? Yes. Will it be fun to drive on the street? Yes. Will it get you stellar 1/4 mile ETs? No.
I recommend an intercooler with this smaller turbo and/or water/alky injection. Anything less than 10PSI feels like all the work was a waste of time on a stock 305ci.

I would stay away from anyone selling a used turbo and then offering to put a kit in it if the buyer buys the kit. Once they sell it they have no motivation to install the kit for FREE.

 

YOu could try find a used T70 from master power as they are only like 550-600 new and used for 250-350 depending. ANything in the 60mm-70mm range is good for a 305

 

I agree. If he is looking to spend $200 on an HX35 then another $100+ on a rebuild kit then why not buy something that he can grown into for a little bit more money.

A MP T70 or at least a HX40 would be better. Another route is buying a cheap T04 and upgrading it. I had one I paid less than $100 and had a 60mm wheel put in it for around $170. One reason I did it is because it had a .84 A/R T4 housing. I would check theturboforums.com classifieds before thinking abut buying that HX35. But would the HX35 work on a stock 305? Yes, but you are close to maxing it out.

 

k i checked that forum yesterday and didnt find anything interesting but i will definately keep checking. you guys have been soo much help i really apreciate it all. and the ebay knock offs were for a t4 i believe, and my friend has done a few builds that he now wishes he hadnt. i will start looking around still reading up on compressor maps so i can learn how to do all this. BTW this will be a mainly street car.

 

Which Ebay turbo failed? And what was the failure? Got any pictures?

 

no i dont it was on a 92 i think honda hatch. Built a very impressive motor and completely painted and finished car. Made a turbo build for it used a ebay turbo and it grenaded and i guess metal shavings got in the motor.

 

Lots of DIY turbo setups fail because of the design. I would not blame the failure on the turbo unless I saw the complete setup. So, it may or may not have been a failure caused by the turbo itself. On properly designed systems these turbos usually do not "grenade". I have only heard of a few early units failing like that which was about 4 years ago.

 

have you seen the website about the guy that bought the like stage 3 t3 or something and took it apart and it was DOA? thats what really scared me about them

 

And did you also read this? http://www.boostcruising.com.au/foru...p/t581339.html

regarding Garrett China turbos. There are a lot of companies making slim margin products these days. Some will fail and some won't.

 

thank you for that. I think if i buy a turbo it is going to be a used rebuild from a performance shop that i trust like az tractor supply. My friend got his t3/t4 rebuilt there and he said it was a great price.

 

actually i have found some hx55 for decent prices might just go with one of those!

 

Well i ended up taking my plans to ohio and talking to my guy at his performance shop. He was very happy about me wanting to build a turbo set up since they are his favorite but hate the fact that i said i was building a tpi. He immediately tried to get me to switch to an ls motor. He wants me to either buy one of the new 6.0 truck motors and blah blah blah.

But he did open my eyes a bit. Now i think i am going to run either a stealth ram, super ram, or a mini ram. I want my rpms to be a bit higher. I havent decided if im going to start out with this or wait until i throw the 350 in it. I have seen stealth rams somewhat cheap on the classifieds compared to their new cost. I typically dont see many super rams or mini rams on them but i may have not looked hard enough. I have done some reading on the hsr and mini ram but i dont kno much about the super ram. I will probably go with the most cost effective set up. But does anyone have any information about the super ram? even just a push in the right direction because everytime i google it i get mixed results of what it even is.

edit: also said that a hx55 turbo is way to big and that i should stick with just a 35 or for higher end a 40 because they have built lt1 engines there with the 40 to over 750 hp.

 

Personally I think he is giving you very good advice, since you're now talking about putting aftermarket intakes on a gen 1 block. The ultimate budget setup would be a gen 1 with a stock TPI intake and either a Code 59 stock ECM or a Megasquirt. This is closely followed by a 6 liter LQ engine (iron block, aluminum heads) with a LS intake and throttle body, but is more complicated with having to switch accessories and mounts. The 6 liter iron bottom end is nearly bullet proof in stock form compared to a gen 1 block. You can get your hands on a 6 liter setup for less than the cost of a set of good gen 1 heads.

To me, using a gen 1 block and upgrading the intake to a stealth ram and buying a set of heads is throwing good money after bad. The only way I can justify a gen 1 is to keep the stock TPI intake (possibly upgrade the base and runners if they appear stock). If you want more than that can give you, the cost per HP is much greater on gen 1 builds. I kept gen 1 because I want to pop my hood at a car show and have the correct engine in it. If I was looking for maximum bang per buck and power, I would switch to LS in a heartbeat.

 

well i want a 3rd gen and personally in my oppinion that means a 305 tbi/tpi or 350 tbi/tpi. Thats why I want to stay with a gen 1. I understand that part may not be cost effective but ever since my first 91 camaro i have loved the thirdgen and i dont want to really change it at all. including the hood so I need to find something I can keep hood clearance at a minimum. The only reason I am putting a turbo in it is well I really loved my turbo car also and I would love to mix the 2 together. Im not looking for the fastest car around or anything. I just want my 3rd gen turbo car.

 

Ok I can definitely appreciate where you are coming from then. I really like the LS engines but I like the idea of the original engine type staying in the car. I still think you should stick with a stock tpi intake though. The turbo will take care of any flow issues presented by it. At least see how it does before you swap to an aftermarket intake setup. TPI + turbo = purrrdy!

 

well the reason i wasnt going to use the stock one is because i dont already have it so I figures it would be waiting my time to buy that and then a aftermarket. We will see how things go first though because i have to see how far my money goes! Eventually i do feel that my next non 3rd gen will probably be a ls engine but this isn't going to be my race car. My friends keep getting on me and tell how slow its going to be but thats not what this build is about. I just want my finished 3rd gen. BTW im going light orange with white stripes down the center. I am going to use the tractor enamal paint that someone on this thread used to make a cheap paintjob got the idea from him. I need to buy a front bumper and fenders and fix a rust spot but having a friend that knows how to do body work on a professional level kind of helps. I am so excited to be able to start working on this its killing me right now!

 

For your first build, keeping a TPI based motor and using stock programming with code $59 is the most budget your going to get. Plus it will be a good learning experience for you to learn the ropes of a turbo motor.

 

Well I think the 305 idea going in first is out the window as I have been noticing some wobble from the crank pulley and its just getting a little too tired. So new plan looks like im going to be doing the 350 first after all.

Now I have the 350 its fully assembled out of a 93 chevy truck. I have no idea what is going to be useable out of it because i dont have a place to tear it apart yet and see what it looks like. Im hoping to keep it the standard bore if everything looks right. Especially since this is setting me back even more money. I think i will just have to stick with somewhat stock internals meaning not forged since this is setting my build back on the money.
This is what it looks like the build will go for now.
For the turbo im still a lil undecided. Would like to fnd a cheap mp t70 but may just go with either the holst hx40 or hx55. Im going to stick with just a standard tpi setup i will be attempting the boring and possible siamese on the tpi setup along with either 30 or 36# injectors. (Btw if ls1 injectors would work then in all reality shouldnt the grand prix gtp ones work? they are 36# on the older and 32# on the newer I believe) Will probably use the stock heads on the truck engine right now. I was thinking of grabbing just a lt1 cam since they are available cheap and then depending on what the lower end looks like possibly re using the crank and hopefully can find some cheap pistons and rods so i dont have to reuse those. This is of course just the major components. I will do the arp head bolts and Hopefully see if I cant get the compression down to mid to high 8s.

Please chime in if you see that I am missing something or misjudged something. O and I think im going to try the code $59.

of course if i find a set of l98 heads around here i may go ahead and go with those because that would definately be better than what i have