project89

iTrader: (1)

if i were you i would go witht he 4inch thick intercooler, its the same core size as the one u listed except it is 4 inches thick. it fits just fine i have one on my car

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is the one im using

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/31x12...item1e5f97ff38

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Thats the exact one I'm using except I'll be getting the 4" core instead of the 3"....heard over on LS1tech that the 4" wide core is supposedly a bit more efficient than the 3" but for the price I doubt it's much of a difference honestly. I know a lot of 240SX guys that use CX racing intercoolers and they've had really good luck.

Also forgot to ask you...I noticed how low your turbo sits in the bay and was wondering what you did for the oil drain line. My turbo sits a bit higher than yours and my drian line just barely has a droop to it with my setup lol. Just something I saw that I was curious about. Build looks like it's coming along great though, and I really want to see how you end up routing your cold side piping.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I had just convinced myself the 3" would be ok.... dam you guys making me not skimp on this thing its sucking my wallet dry! unless the used one I'm lookin at turns out to be a 4" we're all gonna be using the same brand new 4" cx IC's

really though guys, thank's for not telling me the 3" will work just as well i would hate to screw up something like that after all the parts matching i already did.

I ran a -10an to the mech fuel pump plate, put the bung in it as lowwww as I could. Its a 10.5" hose including the fittings (they are BIG) and IIRC it has 3" or so of drop or so so I'm hoping it will be OK. If it's not I'll drop it down to the pan or run a restrictor, or a combo of the two, who doesn't like to do things twice? I did rev the motor up to redline a couple times to get the oil pressure up once the car was up to temp and no oil/some in the DP so I'm thinking I'm ok. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow

You know what, I also want to see how I run the cold side pipes the more I look at it, the more I lean towards an A2W intercooler, I'm just scared of the cost

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

spent a few hours today taking apart the radiator ducting and mocking up the intercooler. Good, yet expensive things came out of it mostly

1.) Figured out the intake track, I'm gonna need a short radius 4" silicone elbow and a 45* Al 4" bend, which will let me run a cone filter in/under the battery tray and not have to move anything else

2.) The cold side is gonna be interesting, and probably pricy. I think I'm going to have to run a vertical IC instead of the traditional horizontal type, oh well. I'm going to go from the turbo with 2.5" to the bottom center of the radiator, go between the sway bar and radiator, from there go through the air dam to the IC with oval 3" or split into a couple 2.5" tubes, then out the top of the IC to the TB with 3". It's gonna be tight, and I may try to do 3" the whole way I just need to find an IC that will leave me enough $$$ to take a risk buying the 3" tubing. I do plan on welding as much of the cold side as possible so that may save me some $ over silicone connectors.

3.) I did not realize HOW freaking dirty my car was, between a leaky oil pressure sender and crashing into a gravel filled ditch when i lost the brakes, there is dirt/grime EVERYWHERE its disgusting, i even found some golf ball sized rocks in the radiator tray that the air dam scooped up. I have a bunch of clean up to do before final assembly

forgot my camera so i'll go get some pics in an hour or so

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Thats exactly how my buddy ran his cold side piping. He went between the sway bar and radiator support and used some 90* silicone couplers and just went right up into a down-facing intercooler. It works good, just sits a little close to the ground, but like I said, his car is lowered a good bit and he's never scraped yet (cross fingers lol).

Thats why I removed my stock fan too. It worked good, but honestly, I LOVE the extra room more than having a stock fan haha, so the pusher setup will have to work. With it out of the way, I have room for plenty of piping and it doesn't look very crowded. I guess it's something you could always consider down the road. I already don't like a few things about my setup though, and I will most likely end up chaning it down the road. The first time is a trial run though and after you have it done and running, you can change it to be perfect the second time around!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

ah yeah pusher fans! I totally forgot to consider those, that'll let me run 3" piping no problem

I'm not too concerned about the ground clearance thing, I'm on dropzones so I already can't go over speed bumps

ok I'm off to the shop for some pics, I'll get some of the oil drain, intercooler placement, that's about it I think...

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

the oil line has a pretty shallow drop, but it's so short and the first 90 fitting is a good 1" drop also so I'm hoping it will work. That short and tight of a turn on a -10an line SUCKS to make and install







look at the size of the dam rocks in the front end of my car. i guess these are pavement only vehicles....



front ducts removed:



plenty of room for some pusher fans



what is this thing? air bag sensor? I'm scared to touch it I dont want to blow up my air bag

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

intercooler (mock up) from the top:



front:





bottom:



Trying to figure out the intake, the gunk on the turbo is from the duct tape i had it wrapped in to protect it during fab

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

cold side starting to take shape, Gonna do all 3", using this Ic:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...2C+GM%2C+Viper...

turbo to below the radiator:



going around the air dam:



into the IC, obviously using 3" this is just mock up:



out of the IC into the TB:



I may have to oval the 3" pipe over the radiator a bit, but if a switch to hood pins I can just cut out the latch area on my hood and use the "spike" for clearance!







It feels good to get moving on this project again, just wish the heat would back down to a reasonable 85 or something, 100+ is killing me

92 BBC Z

Tell me about it, damn its hot! I've got several things left to do before the Oct, Texas Mile event, but in this heat I dunno if im gunna make it. Heard a cool front hits today, its only gunna be 103 degrees.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

found my fuel pump!

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WSP330&eq=&Tp=

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

cant wait tot see this up and going sail.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

i just need about $600 in parts to finish the cold side, and then fuel/tuning money, then take it all apart and paint/clean then it sould be good to go

man school and no job suckssss I'm almost out of spending money, it's gonna be ramen noodles for a month for me!

91kbell

iTrader: (1)

Keep up the hard work!!!! Your doing some great work, the first time it puts a huge smile on your face you will realize your time was well spent!

Where did you get all your an lines and fittings from?

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I should have it running by the end of january, so we'll see if it was worth it then!

I bought the majority of my stuff other than the turbo and headers locally.

I got most of my -an stuff from texas performance distributers, they are a very hidden shop that is VERY well stocked and can get ANYTHING you need, well priced too http://texasperformancedistributors.net/

I got some fittings for the oil return line, and some studs from clear lake speed, not my favorite place or the cheapest but they will try to take care of you pretty well http://www.clearlakespeed.net/

and for pretty much any hard to find, especially turbo related items oddball turbo is THE PLACE down by me in south Houston. A guy runs it out of his shop at his house, has all the mandrel bends, fittings, v-band clamps, everything and he's a cool guy, he helped me figure out a bunch of stuff for my build, answered questions etc. He has some CRAZY builds going on there sometimes, he's just west of 45 in league city off Caulder road http://www.oddballturbo.com/

I Try to buy local because it's easier to get the right stuff the first time, and it's nice to have people close who can help you out in a pinch if you buy there regularly.

For a build update, school has taken over my life this semester but it'll be over the 14th! I have an intercooler on order, as well as cold side stuff, and I have a lead on injectors. I'm going to go with 90+ lbph and run e85, should be interesting!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

They seem to know their stuff, they got a ford ranger truck that runs 8.0's at near 170mph and they drive it on the street but on lower boost! :yikes:

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

like the picture of the liscense plate of BA02SS in one of the pics. i know that car is fast.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Intercooler is here, I *think* I got a free upgrade to a larger core good for 1300+ hp because the one I ordered was out of stock but I need to measure it tomorrow to be sure. Going to mount the intercooler tomorrow and throw some pics up on here. Then do the cold side piping and from there its just little details, the end is near!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Well I did get the free upgraded intercooler with a 9"x25"X3.5" vertical flow core, BUT they sent me a passenger side inlet instead of the drivers side like I ordered. It actually worked out great because it forced my to find a better way to route the cold-side than I had originally planned.

here's the intercooler installed, good for 1300hp supposedly



following the trend in this build, I used stock bolts to mount the intercooler. Other than the frame notch and hood clearance, there has been ZERO cutting of the car which I am proud of, especially considering Im keeping a/c, power steering, and the swaybar. Here's a rough (phone) pic of the mounting brackets:



the hood needed some cutting, gonna have to do hood pins but i have a slick idea to keep them hidden







with the 3" pipe placed like this the hood closed no problem!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

then the intake piping... I used an old pool noodle (2.65" OD) so simulate 2.5" pipe







and yes apparently I LOVE to cram stuff into tight places dam my stubbornness about keeping a/c

here's a pic from the front on the car, this thing is gonna be a sleeper it looks stockish unless you see the FMIC, paint it black???



called garrett @ Oddball today, going to pick up the pipes/couplers to do the cold side tomorrow!

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Noice. I love these turbo builds. Love the stinger hood by the way.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Thats a wild looking intercooler! Looks like it was made to fit your exact setup. Seems like our cars will be finished around the same time and we can have our little 5.3 vs 5.7/ T-76 vs TC-76 battle!

I honestly have no idea what mines going to do. I've heard different stories from so many people that I'm just going to wait and see what it does. My tuner seems to have high hopes which is good!

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Yah. I can tell yours is gonna rock.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I think it is the same IC as orr's but with a single inlet versus two for twins, it does fit PERFECTLY but it was almost 4 times the cost of a CX racing one

Yeah I bet they end up being finished around the same time, it will be interesting to compare dyno and track numbers for sure

I bet you see 500rwhp without leaning on it too hard, which is about all I'm going to try for until I get some forged rods/pistons in mine. I am my tuner for the most part (scary thought!), although I have a few guys who will help me out which is going to be very nice

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Everything is torn down now, trans is out, motor all disconnected and ready to be pulled tomorrow! First time pulling a transmission on someting other than a tractor or large machinery. It wasn't bad but holy **** i was not expecting the fluid to come out of te rear seal when I angled the trans downwards. I was SOAKED, and so was my dad who was helping my with the heavy lifting

hot and cold side, transmissions, accessories all out and waiting a cleaning and paint



motor ready to come out once I find a hoist with a long enough arm...



and a decent pic of the intercooler

BigKeg

Nice work....just got done reading everything ...

I have a few ????

1st) Is your engine all stock ???
2nd) Are you still using the OBD1 ???

I don't know much about the tuning part or turbo part ether ...But I have seen a OBD2 conversion that s10wildside dose ...is that needed todo this ??? And I saw the show horsepower where they put STS twin turbo on a Corvette ...the turbos went where the muffler would be ...its a $3,000 kit ...Have you see it ???and if so what do you think about putting tubos In and taking the muffler out ???

Any help you give thanks and again nice work ...

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Looking good man! I probably missed it somewhere in your thread, but why exactly were you pulling the entire engine and tranny again? I saw the update and got kind of confused since I thought you were almost done haha.

And bigkeg, the rear mount turbo setups work ok for how simple they are to install, but they are nowhere near as efficient as a turbo mounted in the engine bay. They are also exposed to rain, dirt, grime, etc since they are at the bottom of the car where the muffler would be. I'm sure they'd still last for a good amount of time there, but I personally would not want my $1000+ turbo getting all that junk splashing onto it all the time! Oil feeding is also a problem with those kits. They rely on a seperate pump to feed oil to the turbo rather than using the engines oil pressure. If that pump ever fails, since all electric pumps do sooner or later, then kiss the turbo goodbye.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

My engine is not stock, It's a ZZ4 crate motor (corvette l98 Aluminum heads, hyper pistons, powdered metal rods, a slightly bigger than stock cam). I want to go all forged but the money is not there right now.

OBD1 was not used in any third gen stock so I don't have it, it wasn't used in an f-body until the lt1 cars in 1993 I believe. I have seen the conversions S10wildside dies and they are very nice, but again they are expensive so it's not an option for me this build. I am going to use the stock PCM and code $59 to tune this bad boy.

whitedevilTA pretty much hit the nail on the head with the rear mount info, there are new oil-less turbos that can be used for rear mounts, but they have so many other downfalls and performance tradeoffs that unless you have zero fab skills they really aren't worth it in my opinion.

Because I look at your and the other build on here and they are clean with nice paint, and look at my engine bay and it's FILTHY Also I need to rebuild the tail housing on the transmission, maybe do a new clutch disk good for 600 hp (all of the lt1 PP's are the same which is nice I don't have to replace that), And I'd like to paint the motor and it' just easier with it out. Plus now that it's all out I can take out the k-member and everything real easily and paint it up too.

Anyone have suggestions on color schemes for the engine bay? body color? black? I cant Pick!!!!

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Ahhh, ok. Makes sense haha. As far as paint, I've personally ALWAYS loved a body colored engine bay myself. Just looks like you put the extra time and effort into it. Then again, it is much more of a pain in the butt than just doing black. I'm sure either way with some good cleaning and fresh paint, it'll look worlds better!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

thats exactly my thought, black looks like I took the easy way out. BUT I'm not at all, I'm pulling EVERYTHING so the color selection could be whatever I want. I'm going to print off some pics of the engine bay and color them in and see what I like, I'll post them up to get some opinions if they come out ok.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Looking good so far! I was debating on putting my camaro grille back in to hide some of the intercooler like yours. Like the progress so far!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

thanks Orr, yeah I'm liking the sleeper look more and more. Just patch those holes in your hood and throw the grill you'll look like a mid 12 second car

Well I have decided to keep the engin bay body color, the hotside will be silver, intake as cast, heads polished, block body color, silver water pump, polished cold side, just gonna make it as clean looking as I can.

BAD *** NEWS! The clutch in my car is a Mcloud rated for 500hp! I though it was just a stock repalcement so I am in a great mood. Motor is coming out in the morning I'll have new pics up tomorrow

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Hey, just a little tip on the hoist. Since these cars have such long noses, my brother found out that you can pull the motor from the side of the car. This way you don't need to worry about removing the bumper or anything. Pull a wheel off and have a jack stand under the K-member on that side, then slide the hoist in from the side of the fender and pull the motor out. Just need to leave yourself with room on the side of the car so you can pull the hoist back once you get the motor up. It actually worked REALLY well on my brothers car.

nicksflight

Wow...What a project you've got here... I like building street rods as well, but the complexity you've got in tight quarters, really show your determination on building a fast off the chain ground pounding road thumping fire breathing animal...Yeah!! I LIKE it...only one question? what is your MPG going to be? and where on Earth are you going to use all that power at? I well tell you this thou...You'll have every Bear, Snake, Raido Jocky & Evil Kenevil, aiming a laser, Radar, PCM, Warlock, Duke, at your glutiousmaximus, just salavating of giving you a sweet lushus green Ticket!! you just need to be aware of low flying bridges, the last Firebird that launched off the barrier wall did not fair too well on impact...never knew what happened to the driver on that one...be safe and injoy your ride!!!!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

thats sounds like a good plan, I'll look and see if that's doable with the car on the lift in the morning, thanks for the info! If I can't get it to work becuse the car is on the lift I'm gonna fab up a LONG arm hoist, put some of that engineering school to work


Nicks filght - Thanks! As for MPG it doesn't matter as long as it's fast! But in realitly it will be about 20 on the highway, 15 city since the turbo is only making max power when I really get on the throttle I'll have to watchout for bridges for sure, maybe I'll get a big ***** wing to keep me planted on the road But considering I'll only have 1/3 of the power of the big power cars in Houston I should be fine putting some power down on the street, I'm not even going to be fast enough to be a camera car LOL. I guess I'll just have to step up with a 300 shot hahahaha

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

well coming in from the side was not gonna work with the car on the lift and the stupid short arm on my hoist, so I bought a 24 foot piece of square tubing LOL. Spent 80 bucks including bolts and welding supplies and have a hoist with a 7 foot reach! I need to use the left over material to extend the stabilizer legs but with the arm horizontal and the motor hanging on it the hoist takes a light push down with one foot to be ok. I'll extend the legs when I get some time, and I'll have the ultimate third gen engine hoist!





motor is out and the engine bay is broken down as far as I'm gonna take it, I'll mask the rest off. clean and paint begins tomorrow!

How do i clean the wiring harness? help!!!!

Motor coming out



dirty engine bay all empty





clutch looks like it's in good shape

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

pressure washed, painting today hopefully

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Damn man, looks a million times better even just pressure washed! It's amazing what getting rid of 20+ years of grease and grime does for an engine bay. Are you using an actual spray gun for the painting?

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

yeah it looks wayyy better already, and now that the gunk is off I can see that I have new steering parts so thats a plus!

Yeah I have two HVLP guns, one for primer and sealer and and a nice one for base and clear. I may just do one stage though we'll see what the paint prices look like

8T9Formula

iTrader: (1)

FYI: OBD1 refers to any first generation On Board Diagnostics system - one which alerts the driver to a malfunction. Not all manufacturers used an OBD1 system, but all were required to use a standardized OBD system beginning in 1996 (OBD2). GM started using an OBD1 system in 1981 and by the mid 1980's ALL GM cars were so equipped from the factory. Your car definitely originally had OBD1 (ALDL, computer controlled fuel/ignition/emission systems, Service Engine or Check Engine Light) - but it may have been removed or made inoperative.

Not that any of that matters as it sounds like you are going a different direction anyway - probably for the best.
With that said, awesome build - looking forward to hearing how it turns out!! Keep up the great work!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

oh cool didn't know that. I always associate the OBD1 and OBD2 with the systems that were plugged into the computer for emissions testing, OBD1 was used with a dyno test IIRC, and OBD2 was plug in only

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

i believe that all third gens from 86 up are obd1. obd1 left us in 1996 possibly 95.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

k-member is painted black, everything is masked off and ready for paint. I'm going to spray it sunday taking tomorrow off to BBQ and drink beer

pic is blurry, but you can see the k is black now



all masked off, etching primer on, ready for primer/base/clear

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

painted! I had some serious issues with orange peel in the clear when I painted the whole car, and then I painted a boat with base/clear and kinda figured out the clear, and this time I got it figured out! It looks awesome! I'm on cloud 9 right now! here are pics from each stage

etching primer:


black epoxy primer:


one coat of color:


two coats of color:


3 coats of clear with the lights on, it was hazy so it doesn't look great in the pic:


here is a pic with the lights off, you can see the shine but its dark:


up close of the paint, it's a OEM cheaper low solids clear so it will dry and look a bit thinner than the pic but it still looks great!

freaky

nice

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Looks great man! Bet that feels good to know your bay is going to look nice and new now. Can't wait to see it with a motor back in there!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I'm excited to get it back together! It's gonna look sick Now I just need to re-clear the exterior LOL

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Wow I cant wait to see this finished, look great and I love the way you routed/mounted the turbo, I myself cant live without a/c and I always wanted to do something like this, the only other third gen that I really like the turbo setup was a silver T/A that was in Gm Hightech, he put one of those a/c kit on that moves the evap inside, so it gives you a ton of room on the passenger side with the blower and evap gone.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

it was a real challenge to route the hotside without moving any major a/c components, If I had ditched the a/c this would have been done 6 months ago and with a bigger turbo!

here are two pics of the bay unmasked, still with a camera phone but a different one this time, and in bad lighting so the clear doesn't look shiny, I'll get some pics in the sun tomorrow