project89

iTrader: (1)

id idnt read the entire thread just yet but u can delete the opti by using a ford edis ignition setup. this is a wasted spark system and is very easy to install.

another option would be to use ls1 coil packs and do a cop setup.
u do not need to run the ms3+3x system to do this. u just need a crtank triger wheel and convert the opti distributor to put out a cam signal which is very easy to do .

i plan on switching to ls1 cop on my gen1 355 with twin turbos this comming summer for now im just using the hei dizzy

check out my build thread for some ideas on how to do the plumbing and assorted stuff

scandavid

So what size innercooler piping did you use or that you think will work good? i was thinking 3 inch from turbos to innercooler and then 4 inch from innercooler to intake? idk if the 4inch is too big or if I should just do 3 inch all around.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

you can get away with 2.5" from turbos to intercooler and 3" to throttle body if you like. I have that combo now and its working but I may go to a 3.5-4" pipe from intercooler to TB if I upgrade to a 85-90mm TB

scandavid

Okay. So im running the lt1 style throttle body and its the upgraded bbk twin 58mm throttle body. So you think I should run a 4inch to the throttle body?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

58mm = 2.28" X 2 (just a tad over 4 1/2"). A 4" charge pipe will be fine...

scandavid

Okay cool thanks for all the input

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That would work but its not really needed for boost and your power levels. A single 3" pipe will do all you can ask out of it but if you can fit and fab a 3.5-4" pipe, then use it.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Area is a squaring function, not linear:

58mm = 2.28"

2*sqrt(2*(2.28/2)^2) = 3.22" ----> a 3.2" round pipe has the same area as a twin 58mm TB

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Too many variables when calculating actual cfm in round pipe. A 58mm throttle body, which he is using, is flow rated at 1050-cfm. He also will be running two individual turbo's which will more than likely have a minimum of 2 inches on the outlets a piece (4" total), could be larger depending on the turbo's he chooses, could be 2.5 inches on the turbo outlets (5" total). A 4" charge pipe will be fine for his application, a 3.2" charge pipe will slow the charge down before the throttle body, hindering velocity....

project89

iTrader: (1)

smaller pipe will accelrate it not slow it down

theres actually a page on ttf.com that shows u how many fps the air will travel and with size pipe .

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Yes, but it does this by increasing pressure, and with additional pressure there's increased heat, which he doesn't want. I would much rather keep the intake charge essentially the same diameter after the turbo's up until at least the throttle body, nothing smaller earlier than the throttle body, because it would defeat the purpose. After the throttle body, the tract gets smaller anyway, and that is where you want it accelerated....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You divide the CFM by the cross sectional area of the pipe, they need to be in the same unit.

scandavid

okay. I have a question because everyone seems to have a different answer, say you have a twin turbo setup and you are running 10psi on each turbo does that mean you are running 20psi of boost or is it still just 10psi? Another question do you need 2 boost gauges ? Im running mega squirt, bank to bank injection not sequential so should I still run 2 widebands or only one?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

No, 10 psi from each is 10 psi total. It does not add. Only the amount of air adds together.

No, you can run 1 boost gauge as its just taking signal from the plenum. If you wanted to get 2 and read the compressor outlet pressures, then you can do that but I rather see the pressure the motor sees as there is a drop thru the piping and thru the intercooler.

I run 1 wideband on my car but have ports on both banks to see whats happening on the other side if I need to. Just move the o2 sensor around alittle.

Not mentioned, but you can run 1 boost controller with 2 wastegates as well. Just plumb the signals into a T fitting to the controller. Works fine so far for me

scandavid

okay that makes sense. So do you Y your exhaust together and then put the o2 after the Y or did you just put it on one side of the engine? I am just making a short exhaust for each turbo and not Ying them together and putting each one of them in front of the front tires. Will this make a difference or will it still be okay to run just one on one side?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I got a bung on each downpipe behind the turbo...its alittle closer to the turbine exit than I'd like but its been working. IF its too close it can be too hot and destroy the sensor.

scandavid

okay. so you dont worry about one bank going lean or something happening and not knowing about it? I already have 2 widebands but the mega squirt can only read one bank at a time and I have to flip a switch to start reading the other side. I have someone that wants to buy one of my widebands and i just want to know if its really worth the extra 200 dollars to be able to read the other bank at the flip of a switch because i could really use that 200 for my waste gates.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I check both banks every now and then, but theoretically, if one side is good in a batch system, the other side is good I also test header surface temps with laser temp gun but that doesnt always tell you much...does give an idea which cylinders are colder...I use it to detect idle misfires and such... I also check plugs when I can but its a PITA on my car so i rarely get to that.

scandavid

okay thanks that helps me out a lot.

scandavid

hey do you think 2 feet of 3/8 fuel line from the tank is big enough and then possibly go bigger after that hard line from the tank? What size line do you use? Because my plan is to use the stock sending unit, take the in tank fuel pump out and just use the feed, return and vent lines and use 1 in line fuel pump and filter. Then i have all auto meter gauges so I will try to use the stock fuel level sensor with the autometer gauge but im not sure if it will work

scandavid

I just got this 4 inch intercooler piping and it is hugeeee. I will fit no problem but it just seems like im going to lag. Should i still go with the 4 inch or just exchange it for 3 inch. I was planning on doing 3 inch from the turbos and then 4 inch to the intake. Now idk what i want to do because it doesnt seem like i should run 3 inch from the turbos and then have all that air squeeze into the same 3inch size pipe. Please someone help everything else is done this thing is ready to start im just stuck.

scandavid

these are some older pics but here are some.

scandavid

Well idk why but it wont let me post anymore pictures

weberflorida

iTrader: (2)

I am getting another thirdgen this week of a buddy after not having one for the last 5 years. I have had a 3000gt vr4 and fell in love with turbo charged cars. He is offering me this car at a deal that i cant pass up and i will want to boost the car. seeing all your guys builds is ****ing inspiring. subcribing.

91kbell

iTrader: (1)

Tell me about it I joust found a full hotside for twins for 100 bucks, another boosted third gen is in the works!!!

formulakeith

I know this is an older post, but I am doing a twin turbo setup on my formula 350 currently a solid 275hp TPI305 temporary motor till my 357 forged motor is done. I was going to buy this set that dumps the turbos towards the front right next to the serpentine belts, may have to remove the passenger side bracket for the serpentine setup in my 89, but I'll just run a shorter belt and barely get it on, by using a socket and ratcheting the alternator to get the belt on. What kind of manifolds are on this motor? Did they go far to the side of the head, then dumped towards the top? I was going to buy a similar kit for mine. Have you run the car at the track since this setup was finished? I'm very interested, thanks