tcouty87

Ok so it WILL work. I was running options through my head as to whether I was gonna use a 142 extra long nose and hope it would clear my serpentine belt system, or change it all to V belts. After fabricating some shims I bolted it up yesterday and got everything to line up with about 1/6th of an inch clearance between the belts and pulleys. Plenty in my opinion. I'll post pictures up when the motor goes back in and fire it up. If anyone has any questions or needs some info just reply back.

BANDITSBC

VICTORY!!!

I"m fabricating a new blower motor housing today,,, i could use the same luck!

tcouty87

Got the supercharger manifold bolted in, Blower mounted on top and all the pulleys tightened up! Heres some pix.

tcouty87

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Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Excellent work, and the engine looks incredible by the way. Any vids coming soon....?

tcouty87

Thanks! It's a complete T-56 ZZ4 swap so I'll have it finished in about a month. Got a 50 shot of Nitrous and a methanol kit on it as well. All of the parts are in, just have to throw it together and fabricate a crossmember for the 6 speed.

Military Clone

Is that a 350 or 305?

tcouty87

355 ZZ4

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Looking good, but there are some areas Id address before firing it up


In this pic, the tensioner pulley isnt strait. It will throw a belt likely chewing it up as it goes. From playing with pulleys in space before, I can tell you, the belt can take about 1/2* out of perfect alignment before chewing stuff up. Also, whats keeping your washer stack for laying flat?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...t-100_0463.jpg

In this one, it looks like theres nothing holding your crank pulley in line, just bolt shafts. Can you post a better pic of this?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...t-100_0464.jpg

One last thing, those B&M belt setups were always mickey mouse. With cogged setups, less belt wrap is acceptable because no slippage is possible. Serp belts are a different story, that will slip with any real RPMs. The wobbly looking tensioner thing doesnt instill alot of confidence either. Why the small crank pulley and equally small SC pulley? Summit sells a universal SBC 10 rib crank pulley thats 7.8". That'd overspin your setup if you chose, or put a bigger SC pulley on too for more belt contact and the same blower speed

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Looks nice! Hard to tell from pics as to how well the belt is aligned....you really need to see in person to tell. I can say this though...if it's anything like mine (6 rib serpentine) - if it's just a little off, it'll begin to walk itself off the pulleys the first time you take it out -don't ask me how I know..

If it's not, then it's pretty darn close! BTW, the B&M's and Weiands use a spring type belt tensioner right? If so, it's better than my non-spring loaded type anyday. I really don't have a tensioner at all...it's really just a idler, and I have to adjust my belt tension the old school way...with a pry bar.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You're using a 6 rib belt without a tensioner on the maggy? Why not use the tensioner they send with the kit? It's got some serious spring power

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I didn't get a tensioner in my kit. I'm running a universal kit that doesn't come with it - it's V-belts for everything else except the blower (Carb SBC1 408). Gratefully, I've not had any issues with belt slippage at all. If I did, then I guess I'd find a way to convert it.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ouch, maggy sure dropped the ball for that. Truck kits come with a huge pile of stuff just to line up the pulleys

tcouty87

Pocket, the washer setup was just reference for me to get solid spacers so I know the right distance I needed. It was around 1.5 degrees off in those pictures, just wanted to see if it would clear. The crank pulley was the stock one that came with the crate engine and the SC pulley on the crank was the one that came with the blower kit.

The tensior that came with the kit works well, but rotates a little too much for me clockwise and counterclockwise to the belt so I took it apart and put a stronger spring in it. I just think it was worn down a little from the couple of years it was on the previous owners ride.

I'm always up for advice so whatever you guys think will help please lemme know. I'm bolting up a 50 shot of Nitrous to this tomorrow with the plate modified to take in the methanol kit I have also. Just want to make sure everything nice and cool and has good octane since the CR is so high.

I know this isn't the place but Pocket I know your pretty knowledgable from your previous threads, what's the best way to go about my fuel pump? My old electric one works fine, but I want to stick with the mechanical one it came with. Do I need to change it to a carb pick up in tank or will it pull through the old one without a problem?

Thanks

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Remove the in tank pump if you're going mechanical. You can stick a TBI pump in if you want a helper

Never pull through a dead pump, serious restriction

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Kinda funny you should put it like that....

I've dealt with LOTS of vendors over the years during my build, and they have a top notch customer service department! My pulleys align perfectly...I was just commenting that I don't have a belt tensioner...

My belt didn't align one time due to my error.....I stupidly put my smaller drive pulley on backwards!

Gerv

Hello guys can someone help me with my serpentine system with my 144 supercharger how to video or any help