89fbrestor

i dont know if this is the board to post this in but it has to do with my nitrous so here it is. i cant hook up. even with out the nitrous i'm laying a 130+ ft burn out. i tried the nitrous for the first time last night and it was like i was trying to take off on ice or gravel(I'm probably exaggerating a little but you get the idea). i never thought id not like roasting the tires. i would loose to a 4 banger on a stop light race right now. i have new suspension in the the rear, i have really fat tires in the rear i have a speaker box with subs and amps plus the nitrous bottle in the rear and the car just spins.

3:08 rear end
700r4 with 2400 to 2600 stall converter
475ish motor plus 100hp shot of nitrous.

any suggestions? its fun to be able to burn out but i also thought i would be able to get up and go. it smoked the tired so bad last night i thought i blew a head gasket. i have a video that I'm going to put on you tube and I'll post the link when its up later today.

thanks

bonesbrakr

iTrader: (3)

Feather the throttle so the nitrous doesn't kick in from a dead stop or raise the activation to a higher RPM. Also go to a higher stall converter. If you don't care about gas mileage that much think about taller gears in the rear. Maybe somewhere in the 4.11 range.

89fbrestor

wouldnt higher stall just make me spin even more? and i didnt hit the nitrous till i was in 2nd gear. as far as 4:11 gears... what i noticed is that by the time i get traction i'm already in 4th gear and my power is starting to come back down, wouldnt the 411 gears do that even quicker? i'm not debating what you said i'm asking cuz i'm a newbie to wrenching and i dont know much about this kinda stuff. building the motor seemed easy compared to tunning it and this stuff lol

screaminformula

no, no, no and no. putting a taller rear end ratio in it would only exacerbate the problem. that's like saying, "well, we're already spinning like mad, lets DOWNSHIFT!!" the gear ratio you have now, while being more for top end, should be just fine when you have that much power on tap...should still get off the line like a cat with acid on it's anus. also, again, NO, you don't want to put a higher stall converter in it. that's like saying, "well, we already spin off idle, so lets dump the clutch (if you had a manual) at 3,500 RPM and see what happens!"

the things i recommend are as follows...

1. if you don't have a limited slip, get some sort of traction device. if you have a "factory" one, still get something else that will work better. i recommend something like an Aussie Locker or an Auburn or Detroit unit. some people even use ARB air lockers so they can have a LOCKER and then just regular limited slip when they don't need full traction capabilities.

2. invest in a set of Drag Radials. honestly, i recommend a smaller (narrower) set of Drag Slicks but those wouldn't be DOT legal (just don't get pulled over)...a good set of drag slicks would handily grenade your factory rear end as you'd be hooking harder than my mother. but even a set of good Drag Radials (not Fujisaki's from Japan) will get sticky when you heat them up and will have your car hooking a LOT better than the dirty girl scout up the street.

3. install subframe connectors. this will stiffen the entire chassis as a whole and help you plant all the power you're making. it will also eliminate most the 3rd gen squeaks and rattles we all know and loathe. it will also teach your car how to turn.

4. look on this site...www.bmrfabrication.com and get lower control arms, lca relocation brackets, a panhard bar, and a nice torque arm.

if you do all this, your car should hook nice. if you need more traction...you have two options...you can undergo a surgical procedure to remove some weight from your right foot...or tub the rear end and run sure enough "i'm no longer screwing around" drag slicks.

good luck!

89fbrestor

oolololololol "cat with acid on its anus" lolololol man that cracked me up lololololol thanks a ton for the advice screamin. so basically sink some more $ into it i'm up to 9k already but hey its just money lol thanks again that was great info.

screaminformula

no problem dude, sounds like a pretty bitchin car. these things are money pits (which is why i no longer have mine...because i married a money pit. but now that that's behind me i'm slowly looking for another) but they are oh so rewarding when you finally get them all setup right...

89fbrestor

ya its been fun and a great learning experience. this was my 7th 3rd gen and by far the fastest. but i'm done now lol no more camaros after this one.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I second the drag radials. I noticed a huge difference when I put on new wheels and Nitto drag radials on my car a few weeks ago. Traction is much better, but I can still spin them off if I lay into it too hard....but it takes more pedal mashing to do that now. Made avoiding spinning the tires more "controllable" so to speak.

The only setback (there's always negatives) is that the sidewalls flex more on the DR's, so the ability to handle the twisties decreases.

Probably should've posted this in the suspension/chassis board. Plenty of NA cars have the same issue.....

89fbrestor

i agree with that as well my only concern.. and this may be silly but i have a friend with abuilt mustang (who wont race me after going for a ride in my camaro) lol who has drag radial and ya he gets better traction but he's still wearing them out awful fast. and the cost for a good set .... it just adds up quick vs a harder rubber tire. i know i cant have the best of both worlds just sayin.

lunati397

tq arm will help drag radials definately a

I had bone stock suspension with a 6 speed and cut 1.6 60s at the track now my back shocks were blown and it helped with weight transfer but I had nitto 555r and they were great the BF goodriches are good for a daily driver you will get more life out of them but the TQ arm will do alot for you

89fbrestor

thanks for the tip

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont care what you do, your not going to beable to go full throttle on spray on the street. You just have to learn to drive it on the edge of traction until you are going fast enough to go WOT.

Drag radials/DOT slicks will help alot but with any kind of power you are going to have issues from a dead stop. You need to feather the throttle

How does the car do from a 45-50mph roll? It should hook if your tire are decent.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

If the car is lowered, get a set of LCARB's. Lowering messes up the angle which makes it bad for traction.

But the biggest/best mod you can do is in your head. Knowing when to back off the gas pedal & compress it slower to maintain traction. I can roast my 315s through 3rd gear, or I can barely squeak the tires from a launch in 1st gear. All depends on how much I want to punish the tires that time!

I'd start with the LCARBs if your lowered & go from there.

89fbrestor

thanks guys for chiming in... respected opinions. i'm not lowered and i did try to feather it last night but that was in 2nd and 3rd gear. but this is my first experience with nitrous so I'm sure i have a big learning curve. i haven't had this car on the highway to try it at higher speeds either just in front of my house.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Lets face it, you're getting a lot of polite answers to a question that there really are really 2 answers:
1- you learn to drive- this is 90% of your problem here. Put slicks and suspension parts on a moderately powered car and you'll still do big smokey burnouts if you just mash the gas. Sounds like what you're doing would result in 2.5-3 second 60' times at the track. On crappy radials and well maintained stock suspension you can get an f-body into the 1.8 60' range just by driving out of the hole (I don't care if you're talking a stick or auto, I've done it in both).
2- the other 10%- the various suspension and tire suggestions are probably only good for a little bit of improvement on a street car. If you're going to go all out with a dragrace setup/suspension, burnout, prep, on a well prepped track you can get things to the point where you can get the car to dead hook off the line, but that combination still won't hook on the street.

89fbrestor

thanks for the input crossire... and for being polite lol i agree i probably need to learn how to drive this car better. iv had a ton of fast cars but this is definitely the first one iv had that is this fast and has this kind of hp. which is exactly why i did this thread so i could be a little more informed of whats needed to for my issue. what iv gathered is now that iv built a decent drive train its time to build a decent suspension and then get some practice time on driving it before i pull up to the tuner at the stop light in my area lol thanks again for the input it really is appreciated.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

did anyone ask what his suspension setup is right now? he mentioned he has "new suspension and fat tires" lol

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

I think those 2 statements say the most. Nitrous & neighborhood street pavement. Street pavement usually does not offer good traction surface. Dirt/gravel/leaky oil from engines/etc.

Although I'm not understanding the "not on the highway" "only in my neighborhood" then "in 2nd & 3rd gear". 2nd & 3rd gear in front of your house? What speed?

I understand that you were thinking about racing imports at street lights, but you may not be able to ever use the nitrous at anything lower than a certain speed on street tires on the street. On street tires on street pavement, the nitrous might just be useless at low speeds for street light launches.

screaminformula

This makes a good point. even I assumed (making an *** out of you And me) new suspension meant new, stock parts. if I was wrong then I'm sorry...

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Well, really, stock type suspension in good shape, whether stock parts or aftermarket shouldn't change the answers much.

At any reasonable power level the best aftermarket stock type parts aren't going to make that big a difference in launch- my '97 WS6 (same rear suspension) ran about the same 60' with new stock parts as it did with spohn LCA's, PHR, air bags in the springs and assorted other parts. The biggest difference I saw was the stiffer PHR made the 1-2 shift better (with the stock part it would jump sideways on a hard shift, which the aftermarket PHR stopped that).

89fbrestor

lot to reply to. not on the highway is just that i havent taken it any where other then up and down my road for tuning and tweaking things in. i live in the country on a paved road thats been tared and graveled(lots of sharp little pee gravel type stones) and it offers very good traction. my wife put my mini spool in last night for me(i shreaded my hand on a carbide grinder yestruday morning so she thought she'd be nice i have the best wife in the world anyway the mini spool did help with traction but i'm still roasting both tires 1st through 3rd easily. and i did try using the nos at the end of 3rd and i almost lost it.. car got crazy on me lolol so with STOCK SUSPENSION i'm not going to be able to spray unless i'm up around 50mph or so. so ya stop light racing will never happen for me untill i sink more money into the things suggested. which i just cant do right now after the 9k i just spent.

thanks guys as always

89fbrestor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyTD4WY-o0s

just a quick vid on youtube if anyone cares to see. i have 3 on there which you should be able to find from the one i linked to. the two videos of burn outs are NOT FULL THROTTLE. these videos are before i tuned the car the bigger one is about 2/3 thirds or so. i took one last night of it with full throttle and the true posi but i havent loaded that one up yet.

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

what do you have for and engine and mods?

89fbrestor

well i'm sure it might start debate on how much hp i'm pushing but i know iv had a proven 430hp in one of my other camaros and it ran 12.3 in the 1/4 and this car will smoke it. i followed a build off of gm performance . com and they made 447hp with stock bore and dished pistons with this set up. mine is .060 over and flat top pistons and a little bit more aggressive cam after some advice from some one here on thrd gen. plus i added a 100hp shot of nitrous. so take a stab at my hp i'm hoping i'm around 460hp with out the nitrous.

350 4 bolt main 1 pc rear main block .060 over.
speed pro flat top pistons
summit double rolling timing chain
voodoo 268/504 cam
port matched and polished vortec heads with manely performance valves and beehive springs.
world products dual plane crosswinds intake (notched )
edle brock 650 cfm carb.
headman headers to flowmaster exhaust
built 700r4 trans with a 2400-2600 tci stall
3:08 rear end
compu car nitrous system.

atilla said id be lucky to see 400hp out of this build(no disrespect to atilla) but i think i easily went over 400hp. and the debate over vortec heads... say all you want but $ for dollar those things rock and i did all the machine work my self and took those heads to the max all i know is i now have a car that is sick fast.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Get a working posi or throw a locker in there, you'll be surprised how much more traction you'll have. I was able to do an 1/8th mile one tire fire without much effort when I was still running the stock open rear end.

89fbrestor

few post up evil cartmen. i just put a mini spool in and it still roasts them threw 3rd gear. thanks for chiming in though

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Get some better tires then, the ones you're running are probably hard as a rock.

89fbrestor

yup, over winter i'll probably get different tires and replace the suspension and supporting parts to a higher performance set up then stock. thanks

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Looks like you need to learn how to feather it. My first time at the drag strip with stock suspension and Nitto Drag Radials, I was cutting 2.2's and 2.3's. Then I learned how to launch it and feather the throttle, then I cutting consistent 1.8's. I learned, that if I stall my car to around 1600 RPM I would just cook the tires... to get the 1.8's I only stall to around 900 RPM's and roll on the gas with my tires on the verge of traction...

89fbrestor

well i went with the 2400 to 2600 stall because thats what the cam recommended. iv had plenty of fast car in the past from supra's to mustangs to camaros etc. but this was the first time i built a motor and drive train so a lot of what i did was just from reading "good combinations" not from trial and error and experience. i'm not dissapointed at all with the car, its wicked fast. i'm just wanting to tweak it so i can have a little more fun with it then just being able to roast the tire. so ya learning how to drive it is a big part of it. thanks for commenting

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I would go with a set of Drag Radials first thing... There is no point in trying to launch my car with street tires. I could floor it going 30-40 with street tires and spin them, sounds like you have the same problem... A set of Drag radials lasted me around a year and a half or so, with around 30 track passes...

It is going to take a ton of trial and error on how to launch it.

I have a 2900 RPM stall... I wasn't talking about swapping it... Just change the RPM you foot brake it too.

89fbrestor

"foot break it" ? i know i'm probably making myself sound like an idiot but whats that mean lol

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Just using your left foot on the brake to hold you at the line while you raise the RPM. I'd recommend some Sumitomo HTR Z tires that I'm running but their selection went to crap not long after I bought my set. They're a very soft regular street tire. My car only breaks loose in 2nd a little bit when hitting the little red button.

89fbrestor

thanks for the tips.

TurboedTPI

If you want a fast car on the street, go with an AWD car. Unless you have a prepped road somewhere, you wont be hooking on the street (atleast not with a built nitrous car). My car dead hooks at the track with factory rear suspension with a drag radial. And i smash the go pedal as hard as i can at the launch. It cuts 1.5 60ft. On the street i can burn the tires as far as i want.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

So you are looking for a cheap racing tire that will hook and not wear out fast? Just saying.
Buy some decent tires if you really want it to hook.

89fbrestor

thanks guys for the tips yes i agree i will have to buy some decent tires... i'm not arguing that cant have my cake and eat to.