Okay, so I've got a built 355 (Gen I block) that's currently running a carb. I'm in the process of collecting parts for my switch over to EFI, using the Holley Stealth Ram intake, and 7730 computer. Manual transmission. I'm also very interested in getting the EBL P4 modification.

I found a great post by Orr in the thread titled "TPI Nitrous Kit Help", and I really appreciated the completeness of his answer, it was very helpful. So hoping I'll luck out with some thorough answers as well!

For the moment - let's assume I'm not concerned about cost. Here are my general concerns:

Failsafes - I've read threads where guys had issues with their fuel solenoids not opening on wet systems. Anyway to setup a wet system so the system "knows" when a solenoid isn't opening and keeps the nitrous from triggering?

Progressive controllers running with a manual transmission - I wanted to go with a progressive controller, though my builder said the engine would hold up to the 150 max shot I want to use all day long, I'd like to find a way to soften the hit, both for the engine and transmissions sake. Someone told me that running a progressive controller with a manual transmission would be troublesome. True? Suggestions?

Dry systems - Can the 7730 be setup to manage the fuel side to a dry system? (I saw the EBL P4 can manage a wet, but no mention of dry).

Delivery method - Part of the package deal I got with my HSR was a throttle plate tapped for two nozzles already. However I've seen different experiences with how evenly the nitrous is distributed through the HSR with this method. Some said it worked great, some said they had issues with cylinders running lean. So is the best/safest/most-even distribution of nitrous going to be a direct-to-port setup? Secondly, am I correct that I would need to have a shop modify my lower manifold for this?

Timing - I know about pulling timing for the use of nitrous. With the management system I have, is there any way, secondary device/part that can be used so timing is advanced normally, and retards when the nitrous kicks on (or at worst, when the system is armed)? I'd really like to have my engine perform at it's best when not on the gas.

Injectors - this is both an N/A and a nitrous question. I've run a few online calculators to figure out the lbs/hr my injectors should be for N/A operation. Since I only know the crank HP (from when the builder had it on his engine dyno/break in equipment), that's what I've been putting into those calcs. However when I mentioned to the guy who's doing the EFI conversion about the injectors size, he thought it was too high. Quick stats on the engine, 455 HP at 6500 RPM, 447 lbs/torque at 5000 RPM, again, this is at the crank. Calculators are saying I need around 36 lbs/hr. Is this too much? And if it is (say I only need 30 lbs/hr), can the 36s be "turned down"? Or will I be doomed to run pig rich? (I just want to make sure to get the right size injectors the first time!)

I'm sure I'll have more questions as people give me answers, this is just questions based on what I've read and understand so far.

Thank you everyone!

 

spraying a 150 shot at the throttlebody shouldnt be a problem.
there are failsafe's you can put into a nitrous system, but you won't be able to monitor a solenoid opening. you can apply voltage to the solenoid and monitor that, but it wont tell you if the solenoid is letting any fuel/nitrous pass through. for the most part they are very reliable and you can just wire the 2 noids together with no trouble. when one comes on, the other will be on, thats the way you want it.
progressive controller can be used if you'd like. you could set it up to activate upon clutch release+wot switch and add a delay/ramp off of that. when you push the clutch in, nitrous turns off. when you release the clutch, nitrous is activated and waiting on the wot switch to close.
36# injectors should work fine if you are running a wet kit. your tune should adjust for them.

 

Thanks Diggler!

I didn't know there was a way to setup a clutch safety! Is there a particular name for such a part? Could be setup using something like a WOT switch... positioning it above the pedal near the top of the stem, and just attach something to the stem to engage the button?

This morning I was reading an article where they were adjusting for a rich/lean condition by changing the fuel rail pressure. So I'm presuming that if the 36 lbs is too much and can't be easily tuned in the ECM, that it'd be safe to drop the rail pressure slightly?

Though it sounds like I won't have any distribution issues with the throttle body plate - how difficult would it be to adapt a direct port system designed for one SBC to another? For examplle, there is a Zex wet direct port system, but it says it's for the LSx. Just looking into other options for when I go to start buying my nitrous parts.

Last question for now - I've read many good things on the Nano system, both in publications and on various forums. Anyone have any experience with it here? I was thinking I'd like to run that, instead of messing around with bottle heaters and such.

Thanks again!

 

my advice is to k.i.s.s. (keep it simple stupid)
sometimes its easy to get carried away when setting something up like a nitrous system, and before you know it you have a dozen safety switches, 10 relays, 5 miles of wiring, and a pair of nitrous solenoids that won't activate for some reason...
i would start out with something easy to work with. set it up to run a 150 shot through a nozzle at the throttlebody. wire the solenoids together and activate them with your progressive. i run a FJO progressive, and it demands the throttle be wide open and the transbrake released to begin running whatever programming i put into it. i stage the car, hit the tbrake, and floor it. the engine goes up on the 3k limiter, and when i let go of the tbrake the nitrous comes on.
i would run a standard nitrous setup for an injected car, with a bottle heater. normally just turning on the bottle will put your pressure gauge to 600# or something like that. you will need the heater to get it up to 900#. a direct port setup is cool, but at this point i would just stick with a nozzle at the tb like i mentioned before. keep it simple.
as for the tuning, i would run a computer that would allow tuning for whatever size injectors i tossed in the engine. you should be able to run 50# injectors if you wanted to. (although the 36# would idle/drive better) right now i have a megasquirt with 42# injectors in my 350, and it has worked pretty good. you need to get the tune fairly close on motor, and then begin working on your nitrous kit's tune.

 

Thank you again.

I've read (ie, could be completely bunk) that only a few companies actually build the solenoids for nitrous apps, and that they are relabeled by many others. This wouldn't surprise me much, as it's done by other industries.

That being said, is there anyplace that gives a (mostly) unbiased opinion on solenoids?

I don't recall the brand now, but one was mentioned to be better than others for progressive applications because it had a teflon coating to reduce friction and wear on the solenoid. This might be an industry standard now, I really don't know.

Barring that, since you do run a progressive setup as well, could I ask what brand solenoids you run?

 

[IMG][/IMG]I use the Flash EBL. I have a TBI. It is wet. One nozzle with fuel and N20 jets.

EBL allows "on" over a set RPM(mine 3200). On over a set MPH(mine 25). Pulls timing at your chice of deg(mine 3 deg). Has a rev limiter(mine 6000).

I chose the cheater system the most affordable. I have the nozzle in air inlet between the AC and 7.4L TBI.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Thanks Ronny! Good to get some feedback from people using the EBL with nitrous. So the EBL can be set to pull timing only when the nitrous is armed/engaged, then?

For some reason I was under the impression that timing had to be reduced at the distributor, unless using a non-distributor system. Glad to see that's not the case!

Thank you!

 

Yes only when powering switch is on does it do the modification. You run a N20.bin all the time.

 

i run a 2 stage edelbrock vic. jr. plate. the edelbrock noids have the teflon plungers and are better for progressive use. however, i havent really been using the progressive feature with mine since i was able to get the car to leave on the first kit right off the brake.

 

Thank you very, very much guys, this has been an awesome help.

 

most standalone ECM like Megasquirt,AEM,VEMS does the same as EBL

best regards

 

Okay, thought I'd ask this here instead of starting a new thread on it. I was cleaning up the intake when I noticed something odd. A few things on it. It is the newer HSR casting. The guy I bought it from had modified it so it could fit under a stock corvette hood. From the pics I thought he had just milled down the top of the upper intake.

When I peeked inside, it looked like they might have cut down the rails a bit too (there was some permanent marker marks I could see). What really caught my attention is that it looks like a bolt hole was bored too far down, and it breached the intake. Is this going to be a problem?