Firstly, I am VERY new to nitrous and frankly a little scared of it, but im willing to try and learn.. My curiosity gets the best of me. I want to start witj a 50/75 shot and go from there, any guidelines you guys(or girls) can give me?

 

75 shot will be nothing to the engine if it is done properly

with a striaght shot i would go upto about 125-150 hp max
with a progressive controller 200-275 shot would be possible
of course a shot that large would reguire more then just bolting the nitrous system on

 

You seem to be the only person replying to my posts, thank you.
The car is still my daily driver, so I dont wanna go to big, jus something to scare my girlfriend on the weekends lol. Is there a kit I can install,? im on a $400-450 budget..

 

thats because not many ppl here know much about the v6 or even think they are worth doign anything to

u would need an efi single nozzle kit,im not to familiar withnitrous though so i would wait to see if somone can recomend a specific kit

if u wanted to goto a much larger shot i would just tell u to buy a universal direct port kit

 

Well, I found a kit on summit that is a universal for mpfi v 6s,, but the only issue im having is not understanding how it all works. I know the basics, bit I dont know it all. Im afraid In all my ignorance, that I might neglect a major thing like fuel compensation or retarding the ingition, and f-up my engine.

 

Well youd want a "wet" nitrous system IMO. This would add fuel with the n20. Also run colder plugs and retard the ignition 1-2* per 50 Hp IMO. Also you would NEED to have a window RPM switch, this is so that your nitous would only work when the RPM's are so high... IE 2500Rpms or higher at the least. And also a window switch can have 2 settings so that right before you trans or manual tranny shifts you can deactivate the n2o for a split second. You also need a blow down(relief tube) This is so that if the disc burst in your n20 tank due to high pressure, you dont wreck and such from the n20 filling up the car. This tube is a saftey device but I think its a must.

If nitrous is anything like boost, your gonna be paying out the butt to fill that n20 tank alot up as I know boost is addictive as crap!

I only know a little about n20 and most of it is passed info. So hopefully someone who knows there crap can post and make sure that you have the right facts.

 

I was actually looking at a wet kit (the NOS sniper kit, I believe), and I can get a pretty good deal on the gas, so thats not a prob. Would these rpm switches you speak of come in the kit? Would I have to tap into my computer to hook up the switches?

 

I doubt they come in the kit. Heres a cheep one from summit. Window switch..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-830452-1/

Youd run it in series with the wires from the nitrous controler and the tach wires so that it reads the RPMS. But NO you would not need to tap into your ecm wires.

Heres a blow down tube also.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-16160NOS/

 

When does the N2O need to turn off when changing gears?

 

How do I wire one of these switches to the system?

 

You already answered that.. Mybad.

 

Hey guys, ive hit gold.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc..._rHIQsPF9paSng

 

may i be the one who suggest u do a turbo instead????

u will get much more power all the time for much less cost

u will prolly layout 600-650 for a good proper and safe nitrous system, then u need to fill the bottle, and i think nitrous is about 7 bucks a pound hell just say 30 bucks everytime u need to fill it up that will add up fast

can u weld? do u have a welder

if u can weld u could fab up a whole turbo system for 7-900 bucks
it may cost more in the begining but it will be much cheaper in the long run

 

I would, I love the sound of a turbo, but I dont have the equipment or the money. On top, I have to tune and OBD1 systems ssuck to tune...

 

harbor frieght 100$ flux core mig welder
fastedi may be able to supply u a tune

take a look at his build thread its really not hard to get a turbo on the car

 

And for materials?

 

There are a few problems I have with turbos,
1, I need a fresh engine (154,000)
2, cost...(although nitrous isnt cheaper)
3, how do I keep engine bay temps down with all that exhaust tubing?
4,where do I put the damn thing!?

 

#1u do not need a fresh engine , unles surs is blwoing out smoke , or knocking it will be fine , and turbos are easyier on motors then nitrous
#2 for about 750 bucks u will get atleast a 100hp boost all the time and it never runs out
#3 a 35$ roll of heatwrap from ebay , though u dont even need it
#4 read this https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...-fasteddi.html

 

As for the miles if you thinking 150k miles is too much for a turbo, consider how much harder n20 is on a angine. Id advise a turbo also, its actually about the same cost for what I did compared to a safe n2o set up as its not as easy as just using a kit to add n20. And That stuff is harder on your motor then boost. As for the engine, mine has 111k miles on it and about 1500 boosted miles so far, not one single issue on the engine(compression is the same as before the turbo and such) and the power is always there. N20 WILL cost more in the log run. Power is addictive. I, two, though about nitrous before I went the turbo route. The thing I like most about the turbo is once you lay out the $$ for adding the turbo the HP is always there and is pretty easy to tune once you know what your doing.

Also my engine temps are still under control, never over 190* with a 180* t-stat and a manual fan on/off switch. I have some exhaust wrap on my car also and it keeps the temps almost normal. And yes Ive driven it on those 90* days so far that weve seen. I dont like how high my intake temps get but if you look at any street car, after 40 minuets of driving they are even high. So really tempeture is not a big issue at all even with my budget build set up.

I could hook you up with a good conservitive (safe) tune if you do the same tuning as I did.

Between a nitrous kit, a blow down tube, a window switch, and all the bottle refils your looking at 600$+ for a good set up. Also you'd want a good wideband 02 kit regardless if you go n20 or boost just for saftey of your engine.

IIRC on my turbo thread it cost about 750 bucks or so to add my turbo kit. And a few months later, I now have ran a best time so far of 13.70 sec@99mph in the 1/4 mile. There is still more power to be had out of my set up. I bet im making a good 280hp+ so I litterly added 140Hp to my car safely. (Just adding that a stock V6 thirdgen does about 17 seconds in the 1/4 mile)

 

well you guys got the wet nitrous kit right. you dont need a window switch, as that would just add to the cost. 99% of kits come with a microswitch. this will allow the system to come on only at full throttle(it is toggled to arm it).

as far as ignition timing, leave it alone. you dont need to worry about retarding timing until you are in the 100 to 150 shot range. same with plugs. leave the stock plugs in there. ive ran nitrous on 4 different cars, and installed a kit on a 3.4 camaro.

i used the nos sniper kit for that, im thinking its like 350 for the complete kit. it includes everything and even comes with picture instructions

the 75 shot would be perfect for you and on a 3.1 it would make a world of a difference. good luck with whatever you choose

i disagree with the 600 cost of n20, you dont need all that other stuff, a wideband isnt necessary either. the recommended jetting is what i always used. it is always jetted rich on the fuel side to be safe.

as far as n20 being hard on an engine, i ran 180 shot on a virtually stock 350 aside from cam w/ 126k miles on it no issues at all. its all about the jetting. car craft (i think is who it was) pulled a high mileage 350 from a junkyard to see how much n20 it could take before it died, it took like 250 or 300 to kill it.

i wouldnt bat an eye at 75

 

About the window switch...what if your at a dead stop and go WOT and hook, it is a V6 so the rpms would flash low...1600-1800rpms with the stock convert. Wouldnt that risk puddling of the n20/fuel mix in the intake piping and intake manifold=possible backfire. Im not saying it will, im just trying to learn also since I dont know too much about n20 except from other racers.

 

no it wouldnt, if you ever ride in a car with n20 as soon as it turns on, its an immediate increase of rpms by a couple thousand rpms, thats why i would rather use a micro switch. just turn it on and save your self some money. i would only use a progressive controller on a high hp shot(250 and up)

the problems ive seen with the window switches- you have a starting rpm and an ending rpm. the nos kicks on and off through the 1/4. ive had this happen while i used one and i took it off.

the nozzle for the nos willl be a couple inches from the throttle body, and it is such an atomized mixture coming out that there is no way for it to puddle as the engine is sucking all that air in through the intake pipe while you are full throttle.

i hope that kind of cleared it up a little bit.

if you plan to use a bottle though, spend the extra money on a bottle heater and a pressure gauge. iff you are not at a consistent 900 psi that 75 shot will be like a 25 shot. or you most likely wont notice it.