Put the Vortech Plenum on the Stealh-Ram today with all the fuel rails and injectors, put the Paxton in place and will make fuel lines this week, not a bad day.

 

Clean

 

how much you pay for the paxton?

 

it looks real nice by the way.

 

Came on the car 12 years ago

 

Very clean setup, looks great...

 

Thanks, I used to race at Englishtown back in the day (80s) we had a shop in Toms River NJ and ran a 70 Chevelle and a 65 GTO, used to love Racewaaaaaaaay Paaaaarrrrrrk in the radio anouncements

 

Nice.

 

You do know those ball driven patons max out at 5psi....on a stock motor.....and they blow easy if you over spin them....

 

Yes I do, this engine is not even close to stock, I sent the unit out over the winter last year and had it rebuilt with upgraded parts, they are saying up to 8psi I plan to do 5-6 with the new impeller should be fine (per the rebuilder) so we shall see

I have gotten a few PM 's on this so let me list what I have in the motor

4 bolt main 350 .30 over (355) Probe forged dish top pistons (keep comp around 9.5)

Doug Herbert Cam - 500/500 intake-284 / exh-292 / lobe seperation 112 / 108 centerline / 1200-6000 powerband

Pro-comp Vortech aluminum heads 190/62/70 1.6 aluminum Roller rockers

Double roller chain

Howard lifters

Holley Stealth- Ram (Vortech) adj fuel pressure reg / Bosch 42 lb inj (Green Giant stage III)

Walboro 255 pump

Paxton Novi 6 or 8 lbs boost

4th gen rear with 3:42

 

What size is that tension pulley on the charger? Been looking for a bigger pulley.

 

Its a 3 and a half inch

 

Looks really nice! I think we have the same (or similar) valve covers.

 

If it flows more than a stock engine it will make less boost.

That's a good plan. Probably make 350-400hp.


Waay too much injector IMO.

-- Joe

 

I think 350-400hp is a little low unless you're talking at the wheels...mine with the combo in my sig but with 200cc Pro Topline heads (still 9.7.1) and about 6psi ran 12.20's...that's about 450hp at the crank and comparable to his setup.
As for the 42 # injectors, probably on the high side but my new set up has them as well in anticipation of a VR4 upgrade to the supercharger. I don't anticipate any driveability issues, they just won't be working hard vs. the 30 #'s that were in mine when I bought it that were beyond maxed out.

 

What was your MPH and race weight?

-- Joe

 

Those injectors were put in based off what the guy dyno tunning the car sugested, he did not want to run out of injector when he sets the car up. We will see how she does, I think it will make 350 + HP with out the Paxton.

 

MPH was around 115, race weight was whatever a fully loaded Iroc with A/C weighs. Granted there are other considerations too like my 3.73's, suspension mods, 2800 stall at the time, etc that contribute to what my car ran but that's neither here nor there. My point is that his engine combo should be in the 350-400hp range without the sc. Not trying to hijackthis thread though, nice build!

 

Not a problem, we do have a really close set up, I also have the entire rear suspension redone along with a 4th gen rear. I started out just refreshing the car and went way overboard, I have taken just about every nut and bolt off this thing. Once I finish I have a half day on a dyno reserved with a great tuner, so that should wake the car up I hope.

I am also running a B&M Tranny

 

Looks great! Looking forward to more updates & pics!

 

Had touble with my Alt. was sitting crooked, brand new from the dealer but it looked crooked. Spent half the day trying figure out why it was not plumb, took it apart 4 times and with it at the bottom it takes a bit. Finnaly went up to the dealer and found that the casing was not drilled true so it did sit crooked, 45 min after getting my new one it was installed and I was done for the day. Hope to start this up by next weekend.

 

Have you done any porting to the stealth ram?

 

It does not have a 4850 RPM wall like the the TPI, I should be able to turn 6K with no air-flow issues

 

91droptop

I added a took my Paxton apart and added a hole at the bottom and one at the top, installed a pump and filter with a trans cooler. now I service it every 8000 miles otherwise do it every 2000 miles. It really really gets hot without the cooler.

My engine has 10.5:1 compression and wow, sent the paxton back and had it boosted as high as they could. Be sure not to over spin a paxton.

I added a injection system that would add part distilled water and methanol injection system to keep down the detonation. I also turned the maximum retard way up.

My next step is to setup and burn various chips, mileage, power, race.

The throttle was crazy touchy, chirped the tires every time I would touch it. So I changed it to a progressive rate, first 1/2 gas pedal moved the throttle 1/4. next 1/2 does the balance.

Dave

 

Do you have any pictures of the set up including the routing? I had planned to change it at every oil change, pretty simple to just suck it out. I have a meth set up all ready to go on mine, just need to install it, I have 4 hours of dyno time planned to get the car set up once it does hit the road, I do not plan to run the SC (no belt) until it goes on the dyno.

• Lower air temperatures by 50-200+ degrees
• Reduces cylinder temperatures by 200+ degrees
• Increase your 87-93 pump gas by 15-20+ points
• Increase horsepower safely by 10-15%
• Allows you to safely run more boost and timing
• Cools and protects the tops of your pistons
• Longer more stable combustion expansion and progression
• Removes carbon build up from combustion chambers, pistons and valves
• Reduces & helps eliminate damaging engine detonation & pre-ignition
• No need for expensive racing fuel or additives

 

When I first added the pump, small trans cooled, filter system, it was attached to the dipstick. (Notice the two rubber plugges on the dipstick, it has an in and out)

When i took the pump off and took it apart I went to the lowest spot that would clear the belts, the return is pointed with a screw driver touching the return hose.

I have A/C, P/S, Air Pump, Water Pump, SuperCharger, and Alt. (mounted backwards).

I also added wire tie system in the main inlet to the TPI throttle plate, 4 machine screws with holes in the bolt head to the large PAXTON Curve pipe. It was added do to an oversight.

I never half to floor it when I'm driving anywhere. But one day I really didn't expect this 08 vette to get the jump on me as I'm getting on the freeway. Well my Wife was with me and I floored it. I came around the vette and got on the freeway first, a few moments later at about 5800 rpm I heard a pop. My wife asked me " what was that" and I said, oh, about $600.00 dollars. The Paxton pipe blew off the intake and hit the alternator, the alt. Fan blade went into the radiator, so back home I went,

 

I know I have one myself, the stock HSR vortec ports were slightly smaller than gm vortec heads. When I went to the AFR vortecs I had the ports opened up on the base to match. There is a lot of room for improvement in the base, good luck with the build looking forward to seeing the results.

-Jim

 

I will need to do some reading, thanks for the info Jim

 

I posted a bunch of pics/info in a post a while ago. Not a lot of people have vortec HSRs, maybe I'll get mine running again soon but my house has been taking precedence lately.

 

Also, have any pics/info on your heads?

 

Ordered my kit today, I figure $300 is decent insurance for cooler temps and higher octane

The AEM Water Injection Kits are cost effective and user-friendly alternatives to very expensive water injection kits. The AEM Water Injection kits are a perfect way to reduce air inlet temps and increase charge density in boosted vehicles. These AEM kits allow the user to safely run higher boost pressures and suppress detonation allowing the utilization of more timing and boost. AEM's progressively controlled high-pressure pump draws water (or up to a 50% alcohol mixture) from the supplied tank (with integral fluid level sensor) to provide boost-dependant variable flow. Your water is fed into the intake system via interchangable nozzles for additional flow control.

An integrated system status light, which can be mounted on your dash, keeps you informed with easily identifiable error codes such as short circuit warnings, battery voltage problems, and low fluid alarms.

AEM also incorporated a failsafe that provides output to either decrease timing, or reduce boost if the system runs out of fluid or detects any error. Complete kits include:

One (1) OR five (5) gallon tank

Integrated fluid level sensor

Progressive control 150 PSI pump

Three different size jets

Dash mountable warning light

All hardware & hoses for insallation

Select 1 gallon or 5 gallon kit