We can all learn from this.
#1
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We can all learn from this.
8.5:1 compression, 91 octane fuel, no intercooler no meth injection and 25degrees timing at full throttle with 14psi
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Lasted a full year with high 10's low 11 second runs.
Now I need to learn from this mistake and progress forward. Next time around I will have methanol ready to inject and way more conservative timing tables. Also, I need to examine my ring gaps. I followed the manufacture recommendations included with my last ring set. Perhaps the higher then normal temperatures caused even those ring gaps to close up?
Now I need to learn from this mistake and progress forward. Next time around I will have methanol ready to inject and way more conservative timing tables. Also, I need to examine my ring gaps. I followed the manufacture recommendations included with my last ring set. Perhaps the higher then normal temperatures caused even those ring gaps to close up?
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I cannot recall the gaps off hand, it was whatever JE suggested with their piston/ring combo. air fuel ratio was 11.5:1
#10
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Re: We can all learn from this.
ring lands gave away, typical with detonation for them to break off like that..maybe crappy fuel, water in fuel or just a tune that was barely making it and some parameters changed and this is the result? If the rings butted there should be marks in the grooves that show up as a shiny spot. Are the top grooves black?
given how clean the pistons are on the broken ones and the only intact one showing little soot, mixtures must have been off between cyls. Looks a little clean to me for a 11.5AFR
given how clean the pistons are on the broken ones and the only intact one showing little soot, mixtures must have been off between cyls. Looks a little clean to me for a 11.5AFR
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Re: We can all learn from this.
That looks rough.
I havent had that happen to me, not planning on it either.
No intercooler or meth. Kinda asking for it on forced induction.
Should look into at least a a/a ic for next round.
A/w with ice tank if u plan on racing it hard on a aggressive tune.
I havent had that happen to me, not planning on it either.
No intercooler or meth. Kinda asking for it on forced induction.
Should look into at least a a/a ic for next round.
A/w with ice tank if u plan on racing it hard on a aggressive tune.
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Re: We can all learn from this.
HSR ?
-- Joe
-- Joe
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Re: We can all learn from this.
and thats with cast pistons and iron heads
to tight of a top ring gap will break the lands everytime specially if u get a lil detonation
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I don't think that was detonation (check for aluminum specs on the plugs from any cylinder that did not break, not 100% but I'd bet that you don't have any), that looks a lot like not enough ring end gap and/or the rings were too high up in the piston. Moving the rings down, different piston designs and materials all can affect what you end up needing, but with a power adder you really never want to run on the tight side... a little too loose is MUCH better than _any_ too tight.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: We can all learn from this.
i found that on the stuff i build i typically go .007-.009 per inch of bore.(typically around 3.5 inch bore engines)
on 4 inch or larger bore i typically go .006-.007 per inch of bore
works pretty good with me and i use cast pistons never had an issue on good forged stuff id be willing to close the total gap about .003-.004 on those numbers
in case of doubt though id rather go a lil large on the gap rather then just a lil to tight
#17
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Re: We can all learn from this.
For boost alittle large is ok lol. I am running je pistons with je ring pack which i believe he has as well. By their chart one would think street moderate blower nitrous would be the way to go which i think is .0045-.0050 per bore dia when i would rather see drag race blower recommendation of .0060-.0070. Or larger for high power high boost.
Pistons do look clean. Probably leaned out, overheated and rings butted, clipping off top land. Could happen and not detonate but do check.
Pistons do look clean. Probably leaned out, overheated and rings butted, clipping off top land. Could happen and not detonate but do check.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: We can all learn from this.
For boost alittle large is ok lol. I am running je pistons with je ring pack which i believe he has as well. By their chart one would think street moderate blower nitrous would be the way to go which i think is .0045-.0050 per bore dia when i would rather see drag race blower recommendation of .0060-.0070. Or larger for high power high boost.
Pistons do look clean. Probably leaned out, overheated and rings butted, clipping off top land. Could happen and not detonate but do check.
Pistons do look clean. Probably leaned out, overheated and rings butted, clipping off top land. Could happen and not detonate but do check.
see that .0045-.005 just seems to tight for me even on a somewhat mild street engine as the street engine will se emore heat then the drag race engine typically
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Re: We can all learn from this.
My gapless total seals called for bore x .0045 top ring and second ring .0035. Thats what I used.
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Recently I have found that a lot of LS guys run a slightly wider second ring gap over the top ring gap. What do you guys think?
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Well that sucks I hope im alright with my ring gaps then. Id hate for this to happen to me. Im gapped at what i mentioned above
#26
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Gapless total seal rings may not be the same as a regular file to fit ring Trust the ring manufacturer or seek advice from an experience engine builder. But quick search on their site i am finding gapless top rings call for .0070 for blown gas. What ring set do you have?
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I have this ring set
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ts...-155/overview/
The above is what the insructions called for in blown gas/blown alcohol
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ts...-155/overview/
The above is what the insructions called for in blown gas/blown alcohol
#28
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Interesting. Sounds low unless those have a different instruction set? Website for second rings are about that tight but top is still .0055-.007 depending.
Regardless if you are stuck with it, just do your best to keep it cool. Cool water temps and cool chamber temps from a safer tune. Not too much advance not to lean. Try that and it should be safe for moderate power goals
Regardless if you are stuck with it, just do your best to keep it cool. Cool water temps and cool chamber temps from a safer tune. Not too much advance not to lean. Try that and it should be safe for moderate power goals
#29
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I bought new rings for my new pistons on my engine rebuild.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cs3690-35
Speaking with the Total Seal rep, we agreed on this set. Steel top ring and Napier second ring. I will probably go with a few thousands wider second ring like Orr89RocZ mentioned as well as what I have researched on many other sites. I'd rather go too loose then worry about being within mfg specs. Hopefully the Napier ring will help control oil consumption with these looser rings.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cs3690-35
Speaking with the Total Seal rep, we agreed on this set. Steel top ring and Napier second ring. I will probably go with a few thousands wider second ring like Orr89RocZ mentioned as well as what I have researched on many other sites. I'd rather go too loose then worry about being within mfg specs. Hopefully the Napier ring will help control oil consumption with these looser rings.
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I bought new rings for my new pistons on my engine rebuild.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cs3690-35
Speaking with the Total Seal rep, we agreed on this set. Steel top ring and Napier second ring. I will probably go with a few thousands wider second ring like Orr89RocZ mentioned as well as what I have researched on many other sites. I'd rather go too loose then worry about being within mfg specs. Hopefully the Napier ring will help control oil consumption with these looser rings.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cs3690-35
Speaking with the Total Seal rep, we agreed on this set. Steel top ring and Napier second ring. I will probably go with a few thousands wider second ring like Orr89RocZ mentioned as well as what I have researched on many other sites. I'd rather go too loose then worry about being within mfg specs. Hopefully the Napier ring will help control oil consumption with these looser rings.
i have heard really good things about the hellfire rings though i would try a set of those they are 140 bucks cheaper and supposed to be the toughest rings in a blown/turbo or nitrous app
#31
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Hellfires i heard are tough on cylinder walls lol may need special hone surface finish to properly break in. I am not sure
Second ring is lower than first ring which means its away from the chamber heat which causes rings to close up. So by that manner you should beable to run a narrower second gap. But alot of builders dont do it that way. Alittle oil past the second ring to cool the first isnt a bad idea
Second ring is lower than first ring which means its away from the chamber heat which causes rings to close up. So by that manner you should beable to run a narrower second gap. But alot of builders dont do it that way. Alittle oil past the second ring to cool the first isnt a bad idea
#32
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Re: We can all learn from this.
After speaking with total seal I was told the crg series werent a good idea past 15psi so I picked up the csh series which has a steel top ring. He said to gap mine at . 026-.027 top and 2nd ring. Glad I seen this or I would have experienced the same thing
#33
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Hellfires i heard are tough on cylinder walls lol may need special hone surface finish to properly break in. I am not sure
Second ring is lower than first ring which means its away from the chamber heat which causes rings to close up. So by that manner you should beable to run a narrower second gap. But alot of builders dont do it that way. Alittle oil past the second ring to cool the first isnt a bad idea
Second ring is lower than first ring which means its away from the chamber heat which causes rings to close up. So by that manner you should beable to run a narrower second gap. But alot of builders dont do it that way. Alittle oil past the second ring to cool the first isnt a bad idea
this is true that they are tougher on cyl walls , they also need a rougher finish on walls to properly seal. realistically its no more work then using a set of moly rings
we use standard moly rings in the blown alky dragster and that engine makes 3,500-4,000 hp , u guys wouldnt belive the amount of standard off the shelf parts that engine does use
thats why i trust and only use moly stuff in my builds
Last edited by project89; 03-06-2013 at 05:00 PM.
#35
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Re: We can all learn from this.
this is true that they are tougher on cyl walls , they also need a rougher finish on walls to properly seal. realistically its no more work then using a set of moly rings
we use standard moly rings in the blown alky dragster and that engine makes 3,500-4,000 hp
thats why i trust and only use moly stuff in my builds
we use standard moly rings in the blown alky dragster and that engine makes 3,500-4,000 hp
thats why i trust and only use moly stuff in my builds
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I went with Total Seal TS1's and can't find the paperwork to see what material the top ring is.. anyway I went by the book on the gaps. I've been smoking since forever ago and the engine has to come back apart. I've found numerous threads about issues with Total Seal rings seating properly in forced induction engines. Just an FYI and personal experience. I don't think I've got broken ring lands. I sure hope not with a $700 set of pistons! My luck though...
#40
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Smoking out the taipipe with oil consumption or valve cover bypass smoke?
#41
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I have both. Very little but you can smell it and see a little at idle from the tail pipe. Same with the valve cover, very little but there. Not worse with boost - or at least I'm not blowing oil out of the valve cover vent or pushing the pcv valve out at 18 psi. Oil consumption is also not significant but is there.
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Re: We can all learn from this.
Yep right in the middle. My bore is 4.155.
What converter are you running and what were you trapping at rpm wise vs where peak power is made with those 3.08s? Im trying to decide on what gear I should use with a 5500 stall, or just bite the bullet and buy another converter
What converter are you running and what were you trapping at rpm wise vs where peak power is made with those 3.08s? Im trying to decide on what gear I should use with a 5500 stall, or just bite the bullet and buy another converter
#43
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I want my converter just above the boost threshold rpm and gears to make me trap near peak hp rpm in the 1/4 mile. If you are in between ratios by the calculation, go towards the smaller numerical gear. Street car with loose stall definately go abit more highway gear than you would for track car
Do the math for tire diameter vs mph vs rpm to see what you need. 700 whp 3500 lbs should go 140's mph so gear accordingly. My old combo was done by 5800 so i ran 2.73's. new combo should spin 6800 so i have 3.42's with slightly taller tire
Do the math for tire diameter vs mph vs rpm to see what you need. 700 whp 3500 lbs should go 140's mph so gear accordingly. My old combo was done by 5800 so i ran 2.73's. new combo should spin 6800 so i have 3.42's with slightly taller tire
#44
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I went with Total Seal TS1's and can't find the paperwork to see what material the top ring is.. anyway I went by the book on the gaps. I've been smoking since forever ago and the engine has to come back apart. I've found numerous threads about issues with Total Seal rings seating properly in forced induction engines. Just an FYI and personal experience. I don't think I've got broken ring lands. I sure hope not with a $700 set of pistons! My luck though...
#45
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I have both. Very little but you can smell it and see a little at idle from the tail pipe. Same with the valve cover, very little but there. Not worse with boost - or at least I'm not blowing oil out of the valve cover vent or pushing the pcv valve out at 18 psi. Oil consumption is also not significant but is there.
#46
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: We can all learn from this.
i have my v6 car setup for a catch can
1 -8 line from each valve cover fed into the middle of a catch/oil seperation can that i made
then 1 -10 line from the top of the can to the turbo inlet
when the turbo spools up it pulls the gases and lil bit of oil from the valve cover , the reason the lines are attached to the middle of the can is so that oil drops to the bottom before the air/gases are sucked into the turbo inlet
the system works great , but i found out i didnt need it on that engine so i disconected it
this type of system works best with a air filter that is sized just right or just a tiny bit small for the aplication as this increases the vacum applied and creates more suction at the valve covers
if not running an air filter u can setup the suction line at the turbo inlet like u do a header evac system with the bungs in the collector at an angle
1 -8 line from each valve cover fed into the middle of a catch/oil seperation can that i made
then 1 -10 line from the top of the can to the turbo inlet
when the turbo spools up it pulls the gases and lil bit of oil from the valve cover , the reason the lines are attached to the middle of the can is so that oil drops to the bottom before the air/gases are sucked into the turbo inlet
the system works great , but i found out i didnt need it on that engine so i disconected it
this type of system works best with a air filter that is sized just right or just a tiny bit small for the aplication as this increases the vacum applied and creates more suction at the valve covers
if not running an air filter u can setup the suction line at the turbo inlet like u do a header evac system with the bungs in the collector at an angle
#47
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Re: We can all learn from this.
here u can see the can as i was building the system
#48
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Re: We can all learn from this.
I had the heads redone completely and used some expensive seals at that.
Yeah just the stock PCV setup. I was going to build an in-line PCV as well, so basically a PCV to PCV since they don't really seal so well. I figured the drop from one to the next would do well enough, but haven't had any issues just running the single. On the vent side I have a small K&N plugged in the other valve cover.
Yeah just the stock PCV setup. I was going to build an in-line PCV as well, so basically a PCV to PCV since they don't really seal so well. I figured the drop from one to the next would do well enough, but haven't had any issues just running the single. On the vent side I have a small K&N plugged in the other valve cover.