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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:12 AM
  #51  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by 86CamaroDan
For street cars A2A are better as they dont heat soak. Also, id be skeptical of a kit that cheap.
I dunno about that. The Vortech air to water intercoolers work fantastic. When I used to do mustang stuff (4.6 Cobra motors) the vortech installs there was no spark retard under boost, just the air-water cooler and they would put down 500 rwhp without issue.

I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).

If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.

-- Joe
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:30 AM
  #52  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by t/aws61985
A2A is Impossible for the intake set up I will be running. I am most likely gonna send it, and buy one of their whole kits as it will just make the whole install easier for me.
Intake won't have a throttle body?

-- Joe
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:37 AM
  #53  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by anesthes
I dunno about that. The Vortech air to water intercoolers work fantastic. When I used to do mustang stuff (4.6 Cobra motors) the vortech installs there was no spark retard under boost, just the air-water cooler and they would put down 500 rwhp without issue.
I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).
If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.
-- Joe
Neither does procharger on their D1 kits either though. I was always under the impression for street use A2A was better. Chilled water for a A2W on the strip. I have no doubt their more efficient when cold, but how often is that? I tend to follow the wisdom I got a few years ago with "keep it simple stupid" - less is more imo.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:52 AM
  #54  
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Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by 86CamaroDan
Neither does procharger on their D1 kits either though. I was always under the impression for street use A2A was better. Chilled water for a A2W on the strip. I have no doubt their more efficient when cold, but how often is that? I tend to follow the wisdom I got a few years ago with "keep it simple stupid" - less is more imo.
Air to air is surely more reliable, but I think a lot of OE's are using air to water for a reason. GM, Ford, Subaru, Toyota, etc.

It takes a lot more heat energy to change the temperature of water. Gotta figure if you have enough water in the system you can cool the air charge more effectively, and then slowly take the heat of the water.

Once an air/air intercooler is heat soaked it's over. The air to water probably lasts longer between boost blasts.

-- Joe
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:54 AM
  #55  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by anesthes
Air to air is surely more reliable, but I think a lot of OE's are using air to water for a reason. GM, Ford, Subaru, Toyota, etc.

It takes a lot more heat energy to change the temperature of water. Gotta figure if you have enough water in the system you can cool the air charge more effectively, and then slowly take the heat of the water.

Once an air/air intercooler is heat soaked it's over. The air to water probably lasts longer between boost blasts.

-- Joe
I was always under the impression it was due to size constraints. Id be intrested to see if engine masters/motor trend would do a A2A vs A2W episode
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:56 AM
  #56  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by anesthes
I dunno about that. The Vortech air to water intercoolers work fantastic. When I used to do mustang stuff (4.6 Cobra motors) the vortech installs there was no spark retard under boost, just the air-water cooler and they would put down 500 rwhp without issue.

I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).

If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.

-- Joe
I have a 03 Cobra as well.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 11:44 AM
  #57  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by 86CamaroDan
I was always under the impression it was due to size constraints. Id be intrested to see if engine masters/motor trend would do a A2A vs A2W episode
factory blower cars go air water because its easier to do imo. Getting air out the blower, running to piping up to the nose thru cooler then back doesnt seem effective nor efficient for a screw type blower. You can put the cooler core in the intake and run water to it
for something like that thats driven alot the core will get heat soaked and water get hot. You want a heat exchanger for that if you dont have a large tank and want to drive it awhile

centris also produce heat but the core can be located off engine so it will keep cooler. You could get away without a heat exchanger with a good size tank. 5 gal is common.
Turbo stuff seems to produce the least heat while normally driving but still can get heat soaked
usually guys dont run exchangers. Even 80-100 deg ambient temp water still cools more effective than air to air in that same ambient. As long as you arent boosting many pulls back to back the water doesnt rise in temp as much as you thibk it would. I was worried but after driving around alot in the heat, water temps never got over 110 and thats mainly from sun baking the tank in the hatch. Thats still plenty to cool down 20+ psi for a few seconds on the street
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 12:02 PM
  #58  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ


factory blower cars go air water because its easier to do imo. Getting air out the blower, running to piping up to the nose thru cooler then back doesnt seem effective nor efficient for a screw type blower. You can put the cooler core in the intake and run water to it
for something like that thats driven alot the core will get heat soaked and water get hot. You want a heat exchanger for that if you dont have a large tank and want to drive it awhile

centris also produce heat but the core can be located off engine so it will keep cooler. You could get away without a heat exchanger with a good size tank. 5 gal is common.
Turbo stuff seems to produce the least heat while normally driving but still can get heat soaked
usually guys dont run exchangers. Even 80-100 deg ambient temp water still cools more effective than air to air in that same ambient. As long as you arent boosting many pulls back to back the water doesnt rise in temp as much as you thibk it would. I was worried but after driving around alot in the heat, water temps never got over 110 and thats mainly from sun baking the tank in the hatch. Thats still plenty to cool down 20+ psi for a few seconds on the street
So the piping and general components of a turbo car are hotter but charge piping is cooler? i was always under the compressor side was always burning hot/heat soaking due to the exhaust side. intresting.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 12:07 PM
  #59  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Yeah its hot and theres heat soak associated with it. But you arent making boost at part throttle necessarily while i think blowers make some or atleast can be. Either way running piping to a cooler up front does give time for the pipe to vent heat.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 12:21 PM
  #60  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by t/aws61985
Wow, I didn't even know something like this existed. I will be adding this to my cart. This will make my whole build so much easier.
It's a really great system, you won't be disappointed. Its' creator is a moderator on this website.

Originally Posted by 86CamaroDan
i was always under the compressor side was always burning hot/heat soaking due to the exhaust side.
It depends on the engine as well as excessive exhaust backpressure.

- Rob
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 12:39 PM
  #61  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by 86CamaroDan
So the piping and general components of a turbo car are hotter but charge piping is cooler? i was always under the compressor side was always burning hot/heat soaking due to the exhaust side. intresting.
Turbos are hotter generally because heat is transmitted from the hot side to the compressor, and because the RPM's are much higher.

Here is a fun read:

https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...59431111007198

My T76 would get hot as hell just at idle before I even drove the car anywhere. Verified with a infrared heat gun.


-- Joe
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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 04:55 AM
  #62  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

A friend recommended that I get a TPIS ZZ9 Cam saying that it will really wake up the car. Would this cam be too much for the 305 TPI/Paxton?
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Old Feb 19, 2019 | 10:06 AM
  #63  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by t/aws61985
A friend recommended that I get a TPIS ZZ9 Cam saying that it will really wake up the car. Would this cam be too much for the 305 TPI/Paxton?
I'd love to see a cam card for that cam. Specs are vague on their website.

Not sure if it has so much overlap that the boost will go out the exhaust, or if it will be killer. I used to run a SLP 51010 cam which is essentially a comp cams 503 with a Vortech S-trim on a 355 and it made stupid power on the street. Like 560 crank HP with crappy iron sportsman II heads.

-- Joe

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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 10:39 PM
  #64  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

3 years later and finally sending my Paxton out to be rebuilt makes me feel old.

I started buying too many cars and let this fall to the wayside
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:52 PM
  #65  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by t/aws61985
3 years later and finally sending my Paxton out to be rebuilt makes me feel old. I started buying too many cars and let this fall to the wayside
that kit is for 85-87 tpi with v belts
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:57 PM
  #66  
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Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.

Originally Posted by antoine
that kit is for 85-87 tpi with v belts
yep 86 was v-belt
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