Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
02-05-2019, 09:12 AM
#51
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).
If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.
-- Joe
02-05-2019, 09:37 AM
#53
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Car: 86' IROC
Engine: Supercharged 350
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Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
I dunno about that. The Vortech air to water intercoolers work fantastic. When I used to do mustang stuff (4.6 Cobra motors) the vortech installs there was no spark retard under boost, just the air-water cooler and they would put down 500 rwhp without issue.
I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).
If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.
-- Joe
I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).
If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.
-- Joe
02-05-2019, 09:52 AM
#54
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
Neither does procharger on their D1 kits either though. I was always under the impression for street use A2A was better. Chilled water for a A2W on the strip. I have no doubt their more efficient when cold, but how often is that? I tend to follow the wisdom I got a few years ago with "keep it simple stupid" - less is more imo.
It takes a lot more heat energy to change the temperature of water. Gotta figure if you have enough water in the system you can cool the air charge more effectively, and then slowly take the heat of the water.
Once an air/air intercooler is heat soaked it's over. The air to water probably lasts longer between boost blasts.
-- Joe
02-05-2019, 09:54 AM
#55
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Car: 86' IROC
Engine: Supercharged 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
Air to air is surely more reliable, but I think a lot of OE's are using air to water for a reason. GM, Ford, Subaru, Toyota, etc.
It takes a lot more heat energy to change the temperature of water. Gotta figure if you have enough water in the system you can cool the air charge more effectively, and then slowly take the heat of the water.
Once an air/air intercooler is heat soaked it's over. The air to water probably lasts longer between boost blasts.
-- Joe
It takes a lot more heat energy to change the temperature of water. Gotta figure if you have enough water in the system you can cool the air charge more effectively, and then slowly take the heat of the water.
Once an air/air intercooler is heat soaked it's over. The air to water probably lasts longer between boost blasts.
-- Joe
02-05-2019, 09:56 AM
#56
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
I dunno about that. The Vortech air to water intercoolers work fantastic. When I used to do mustang stuff (4.6 Cobra motors) the vortech installs there was no spark retard under boost, just the air-water cooler and they would put down 500 rwhp without issue.
I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).
If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.
-- Joe
I think the 2003+ Cobras all have factory air-water intercoolers as well (although integrated in the blower).
If you have enough water and enough heat exchanger it's a fantastic system as long as the pump doesn't fail.
-- Joe
02-05-2019, 11:44 AM
#57
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
for something like that thats driven alot the core will get heat soaked and water get hot. You want a heat exchanger for that if you dont have a large tank and want to drive it awhile
centris also produce heat but the core can be located off engine so it will keep cooler. You could get away without a heat exchanger with a good size tank. 5 gal is common.
Turbo stuff seems to produce the least heat while normally driving but still can get heat soaked
usually guys dont run exchangers. Even 80-100 deg ambient temp water still cools more effective than air to air in that same ambient. As long as you arent boosting many pulls back to back the water doesnt rise in temp as much as you thibk it would. I was worried but after driving around alot in the heat, water temps never got over 110 and thats mainly from sun baking the tank in the hatch. Thats still plenty to cool down 20+ psi for a few seconds on the street
02-05-2019, 12:02 PM
#58
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Car: 86' IROC
Engine: Supercharged 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
factory blower cars go air water because its easier to do imo. Getting air out the blower, running to piping up to the nose thru cooler then back doesnt seem effective nor efficient for a screw type blower. You can put the cooler core in the intake and run water to it
for something like that thats driven alot the core will get heat soaked and water get hot. You want a heat exchanger for that if you dont have a large tank and want to drive it awhile
centris also produce heat but the core can be located off engine so it will keep cooler. You could get away without a heat exchanger with a good size tank. 5 gal is common.
Turbo stuff seems to produce the least heat while normally driving but still can get heat soaked
usually guys dont run exchangers. Even 80-100 deg ambient temp water still cools more effective than air to air in that same ambient. As long as you arent boosting many pulls back to back the water doesnt rise in temp as much as you thibk it would. I was worried but after driving around alot in the heat, water temps never got over 110 and thats mainly from sun baking the tank in the hatch. Thats still plenty to cool down 20+ psi for a few seconds on the street
02-05-2019, 12:07 PM
#59
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
Yeah its hot and theres heat soak associated with it. But you arent making boost at part throttle necessarily while i think blowers make some or atleast can be. Either way running piping to a cooler up front does give time for the pipe to vent heat.
02-05-2019, 12:21 PM
#60
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
Originally Posted by t/aws61985
Wow, I didn't even know something like this existed. I will be adding this to my cart. This will make my whole build so much easier.
Originally Posted by 86CamaroDan
i was always under the compressor side was always burning hot/heat soaking due to the exhaust side.
- Rob
02-05-2019, 12:39 PM
#61
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
Here is a fun read:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...59431111007198
My T76 would get hot as hell just at idle before I even drove the car anywhere. Verified with a infrared heat gun.
-- Joe
02-19-2019, 10:06 AM
#63
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Paxton S/C Questions-Help.
Not sure if it has so much overlap that the boost will go out the exhaust, or if it will be killer. I used to run a SLP 51010 cam which is essentially a comp cams 503 with a Vortech S-trim on a 355 and it made stupid power on the street. Like 560 crank HP with crappy iron sportsman II heads.
-- Joe
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