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I'll take a few when I get back. Ideally, I got the idea from Steve Kaminski, as he built a Black TTA some years back in the 90's. If you look closely at his front bumper during the dyno session, you will see a similar cut in the same place w/mesh screen, albeit cut a little differently as I believe he kept a strip of the center portion of the nose right in the middle, whereas my cut was the whole piece. That was one fast bird back in the day...
I plan to CNC my vent trims so I will have to go with 2 pieces. I'd love to do a 1 piece vent like yours. How did you fab the trim?
Using cardboard, I made a cutout of the exact same size using a tape measure (don't eyeball it) minus the center of course, and added an inch in length and height overall to be epoxied to the underside of the nose bumper. Transferred that cutout to sheet metal and made my cut. I then cut the screen to that exact same size of the sheet metal cut. I then epoxied the screen to the sheet metal structure, and allowed it to cure. At this point, once cured, I bent and finessed the whole piece to the contour of the nose bumper (think of a top of a temple at 40*, because the nose is pointed). Took some time, but eventually got it perfect, I then epoxied the front side of the sheet metal structure to the underside of the bumper and positioned it, and again let it cure. Once cured, I paint both sides of it Black. It doesn't budge, and if it ever had any damage, say from a rock, just replace the screen, leave the sheet metal cutout bonded to the underside of the nose bumper...
I can't picture in my head how you hid the cut in the bumper on the front side, but i'll wait to see your pics.
I have access to a CNC so I think I'm going to 3D model two aluminum vents that have an integrated screen. It will have a flange on the front and I will use rivets to attach it to the bumper cover.
I can't picture in my head how you hid the cut in the bumper on the front side.
Think of the metal strip that runs along the whole outer rear hatch glass, how it grasps it. But now picture a full inch in size, and in a straight rectangular shape of the cutout. Only difference being the opening of the metal strip is on the outside, not the inside. Home Depot sells that, I forget what it's called. Anyways, where the outer edge of the hatch glass gets sandwiched in between that strip, you'll tuck the ends/edges of the material of the bumper into it the same way which is why the strip will be reversed. You're basically reversing the strip so that the opening is on the outside so the bumper can go into it. You could also fill it with silicone before putting it on for added strength, as well as to keep water from getting in between it...
I’m in for finished pics as well I wanted to add vents to my TA bumper but everyone said I would ruin the flow to the rad. I also run a large 31x12x3 FMIC for my turbo 5.3 and would like some added airflow through the IC and rad in the summer months.
I can't picture in my head how you hid the cut in the bumper on the front side, but i'll wait to see your pics.
I have access to a CNC so I think I'm going to 3D model two aluminum vents that have an integrated screen. It will have a flange on the front and I will use rivets to attach it to the bumper cover.
If you design something and can make more I would be willing to pay for a set.
I was going to go the front vent route too, however couldn’t come to terms with the look and really wanted to maintain the stock appearance. Instead, I decided to increase the area in front of the rad to accommodate the intercooler and provide additional flow to the area. Here is where I ended up. Between increased space in stock area plus additional venting added to hood vents, I am hoping this provides sufficient cooling using the factory air flow method. Car is fresh back from body shop so I have no real world results at the moment.
I don't know if it will be more effective on a TA than my Formula, but I get ample airflow with the stock air dam through my intercooler and radiator. 412" SBC, always under 190 degrees and the IC keeps the charge cool.
I'm with Anesthes on this one. I to have a 13x19 AFCO racing 2 core (1" tubes) in the stockish location (brought forward a inch or so and down 1.5"). In front of that I have a very large tranny cooler (27x17) and in front of that I have a speed daddy 31x12x3 A2A and I can still maintain 160-170*F cruising on the highway in cool weather (70-80* ambient). In the summer its in the 170-180* range and when I'm boosting on the street etc temps will get up to 190-200*F and drop back down. My IATs are still in the 100-120*F range after A2A and before they were closer to 170+. I wanted to do the bumper mod to help with more of the airflow at the lower town driving (below 55mph) as the Derale fans (spal) have to pull through all 3 coolers and have little to no room in front of the A2A.
Its all about air dam placement, if its too far behind the A2A it won't create the suction behind it to pull through. Once you start stacking stuff in front of the rad my experience has shown the air dam can stay in the stock location under the rad but the underside of the coolers has to be sealed to the rad so it will pull air through at speed. So if your not sealing the bottoms to create a sealed section the air dam creates negative pressure behind the rad causing air to pull itself through to cool but it also needs to pull through all the crap you put infront of it. So they have to be sealed together to allow that.
Its all about air dam placement, if its too far behind the A2A it won't create the suction behind it to pull through. Once you start stacking stuff in front of the rad my experience has shown the air dam can stay in the stock location under the rad but the underside of the coolers has to be sealed to the rad so it will pull air through at speed. So if your not sealing the bottoms to create a sealed section the air dam creates negative pressure behind the rad causing air to pull itself through to cool but it also needs to pull through all the crap you put infront of it. So they have to be sealed together to allow that.
do you have a picture of what you're talking about - i'm not following the sealing the bottoms part. are you saying to keep the stock air dam location, but install a piece of metal between the bottom of the intercooler and radiator? if that's correct, would you also need a shroud connecting the sides (and possibly) top of the intercooler with the radiator behind it?
do you have a picture of what you're talking about - i'm not following the sealing the bottoms part. are you saying to keep the stock air dam location, but install a piece of metal between the bottom of the intercooler and radiator? if that's correct, would you also need a shroud connecting the sides (and possibly) top of the intercooler with the radiator behind it?
Essentially Yes you are correct. I don't think I have a good pic but I have a piece of sheet aluminum under my rad core that goes to the bottom of the trans cooler. I didn't bother doing the sides or top as the TAs essentially have a plastic air diverter enclosure which seals up the top and bottom just fine. Its more about getting making sure the air goes where you want it to go. I didn't put the bottom sealing section all the way out to the IC as I don't think that its necessary and my IATs are acceptable. My Main priority was the trans cooling as I don't run a rad with an auto trans cooler build in so I rely on the large external cooler. Think about it like each cooler acts like a restriction for airflow, that restriction is also for the fans (higher static pressure to pull air through) depending on location and how they are mounted to the rad area. The AC condenser on these cars is basically on the rad and thats why the Air dam is placed under the rad/AC (on my 87 formula it was forward a bit and sweeping). If you put the air damn under the rad but have the coolers mounted 6" in front of it the air dam won't create the negative pressure behind the coolers that far away and the air will flow at the lowest restriction which would be around the coolers and through the rad. You want to force the air to flow through the coolers and the rad at speed which means sealing the coolers to the area had has the air dam.
Here is what I got. You can see the sheet of aluminum under the IC from the rad. I have since cut that back so it only goes under the rad and trans cooler as it restricted airflow for engine cooling and my IATS were fine.
do you have a picture of what you're talking about - i'm not following the sealing the bottoms part. are you saying to keep the stock air dam location, but install a piece of metal between the bottom of the intercooler and radiator? if that's correct, would you also need a shroud connecting the sides (and possibly) top of the intercooler with the radiator behind it?
This is how mine is. I did 'massage' the rad support a little and I used some 3m aheasive backed weatherstrip in some places to force airflow through the cooler, not around it.
thanks for the pics. i have a 1984 TA so the air dam and backside of the front ground effect are little different than the late 80's ones.
i pretty much have the same setup as customblackbird. how does the air dam actually work in regards to air flow? does the air hit the dam and then force the air up and through the radiator or is it mainly creating a negative pressure area behind the dam which pulls the air through the radiator? maybe it's a little bit of both.
thanks for the pics. i have a 1984 TA so the air dam and backside of the front ground effect are little different than the late 80's ones.
i pretty much have the same setup as customblackbird. how does the air dam actually work in regards to air flow? does the air hit the dam and then force the air up and through the radiator or is it mainly creating a negative pressure area behind the dam which pulls the air through the radiator? maybe it's a little bit of both.
I blocks the air and creates negative pressure behind it, thus making the air want to pull through the rad to fill the "void". some of the air dams are angled like Ansthes which also diverts air down and away from the underside of the car and helps with drag and aerodynamics. Since the air dam isn't angled up and its not a scoop is doesn't force any air up to the rad.
Did all of you guys cut your bumper support out in the front of the car? I swear mine was a solid piece of steel all the way across the front, but can't remember. Still seems like openings cut out of the front bumper would be more effective at throwing air at the intercooler than forcing it up the bottom. You will have to get over how it looks. I have seen older mustangs with holes drilled across the front bumper for the same purpose, doesn't look pretty, but it is effective and functional.
Did all of you guys cut your bumper support out in the front of the car? I swear mine was a solid piece of steel all the way across the front, but can't remember. Still seems like openings cut out of the front bumper would be more effective at throwing air at the intercooler than forcing it up the bottom. You will have to get over how it looks. I have seen older mustangs with holes drilled across the front bumper for the same purpose, doesn't look pretty, but it is effective and functional.
Mine is untouched (stock) solid across the front. I wouldn’t mind cutting it out and making something open like the OP, just haven’t found anything that looked good enough for me to cut up my nice painted bumper cover.
Think of the metal strip that runs along the whole outer rear hatch glass, how it grasps it. But now picture a full inch in size, and in a straight rectangular shape of the cutout. Only difference being the opening of the metal strip is on the outside, not the inside. Home Depot sells that, I forget what it's called. Anyways, where the outer edge of the hatch glass gets sandwiched in between that strip, you'll tuck the ends/edges of the material of the bumper into it the same way which is why the strip will be reversed. You're basically reversing the strip so that the opening is on the outside so the bumper can go into it. You could also fill it with silicone before putting it on for added strength, as well as to keep water from getting in between it...
- Rob
Were you able to get some pics of the finished product? I’m seriously considering it.
Bumper support is precut and the aluminum on be backside is removable so I can make holes for the ducting after if I need it. I would rather not cut up the perfect bumper so I will test. I wasn’t overheating but was able to build heat real quick below 40mph with the front mounted turbo. The stock plastic radiator ducting wasn’t sealing much so air had plenty of places to go around. Now it’s fully sealed and it’s opened up quite a bit. The side pic shows how open it is around the IC etc where the stock plastic basically rested on the top of the IC cutting off all airflow above it. Now it’s wide open.
Maybe I don't get it. Did you cut the 2 holes in the bumper cover and the aluminum sheet metal you put behind the bumper cover? If so, then i get it. If not then i don't. Did you drop your IC lower so that it would try and get some of the airflow from the factory air dam? i don't see the factory air dam, but something shorter than factory. My IC is way far forward right up against the bumper support and i have about a foot between the IC and radiator. Not sure where the best placement of the IC is for these cars with no front grill.
Maybe I don't get it. Did you cut the 2 holes in the bumper cover and the aluminum sheet metal you put behind the bumper cover? If so, then i get it. If not then i don't. Did you drop your IC lower so that it would try and get some of the airflow from the factory air dam? i don't see the factory air dam, but something shorter than factory. My IC is way far forward right up against the bumper support and i have about a foot between the IC and radiator. Not sure where the best placement of the IC is for these cars with no front grill.
The bumper cover does not have holes cut. The bumper support or impact bar has 2 large holes cut into the front. The backside is basically all open. I covered the backside fully as I wasn’t sure I need the bumper vent holes cut yet. The impact bar holes back side (radiator side) are blocked off so the air comes from the underside and goes to the rad. Basically I have the car ready for bumper vents by just Cutting holes in the bumper cover (without removing from the car) and removing the block off plate on the backside of the impact bar. Then it’s good to go. I don’t think I’m going to need it since I was able to open up the area around the radiator and IC.
My radiator is dropped 1.5” and moved toward the front bumper about 1.5” as well. In front of the 31x19 radiator (bigger than stock) is a 17x26” Ford super duty trans cooler then in front of that is the 31x12x3.25” IC. I have about 3/4” gap between the rad and trans cooler and then I have about 1” -2” between the IC and trans cooler.
Maybe your running a much thicker IC? I see IATs in the 100-120*F range even after 15psi on 80-90* days. U don’t really need thicker than 3” in the IC size unless your pushing a lot of boost. Added IC thickness just kills airflow more. And I see less than .5psi pressure drop across the IC at 15psi.
U can see the radiator fins in the very back, then the trans cooler and then The IC. I still have like 3” between the IC and the impact bar.
Bumper support is precut and the aluminum on be backside is removable so I can make holes for the ducting after if I need it. I would rather not cut up the perfect bumper so I will test. I wasn’t overheating but was able to build heat real quick below 40mph with the front mounted turbo. The stock plastic radiator ducting wasn’t sealing much so air had plenty of places to go around. Now it’s fully sealed and it’s opened up quite a bit. The side pic shows how open it is around the IC etc where the stock plastic basically rested on the top of the IC cutting off all airflow above it. Now it’s wide open.
Did you ever post any updated pictures of your bumper? I'd also like to know what headlight setup that is.
Did you ever post any updated pictures of your bumper? I'd also like to know what headlight setup that is.
decided against it, my IC temps are really low considering how much is under the hood and I daily drive this to work and stuff on nice days. If the temps were actually a problem I would likely have done it.
headlights are custom that u made. Dual full HID bixenon projectors so 4 low beams and 4 highs total. Output was crazy but not sealed from the elements so I couldn’t drive in the rain or if I got caught in bad weather. I also did the laze eye mod which helped with looks a lot. I retrofitted some 7x6 glass headlights with a full projector but couldn’t solve fogging issues and again not fully water tight as I couldn’t fit a boot on the back to seal it up. I’m now rocking the newest JW speaker LED headlights in factory position so no issues with weather or anything. Output is decent on low beam but I miss my projectors…. High beam on the JWs are amazing thought.
02-16-2019, 09:09 AM
